Five Generations Of Grilled

 Recipes and food are passed down through generations. These are the culinary heirlooms that connect us to past generations. Barbecue for instance is one such food. This links family to their heritage going back decades.

Regular contributor Gabriel H. Sanchez wrote about his family's connection to smoked brisket in today's New York Times Wednesday Food section.Mr. Sanchez is a fifth generation lover of the meat coming from Lockhart ,Texas. Lockhart may be a small city located between San Antonio and Austen but Texas lawmakers decreed t to be the barbecue capital of the state. It has four historic smoke houses which has served many visitors and locals for decades.Most of Mr. Sanchez's family have worked at one Kreutz Market started by  the son of German immigrants Charles Kreutz in 1900. To cut down on waste he began smoking the unsold cuts in the tradition of his German heritage. he strung up sausages like Christmas lights over slow burning post oak. Tougher cuts of beef were smoked at low temperatures for many hours or even days until the fats and the coilligen were broken down into a  rich aromatic just that saturated each bite. The area had been ripe for this kind of food. It was on the CHisolm Trail where cattle were driven mainly by black and Hispanic cowboys who had a taste for charcoal and barbecue. This was a definite impact on early Texan cuisine.

Five generations of Mr Sanchez' family worked at Kruetz's from his great great grandfather in the early 1960's to his father. Various cousins and uncles also worked in the industry.it was hard work , some having frostbitten noses from filling sausage casing in sub zero freezers to hands singed by flames.Their clothes were always blackened by soot and ash. Yet barbecue was  their life and passion.After Mr Sanchez;s father joined the Marines and did a Tour of Duty during the Iraq War he found comfort in being in front of  his Weber grill making his own smoked brisket.He showed his son how to trust tongs over a thermometer and the care and attentiveness to cook meat low and slow for hours.The next generation will learn as a new generation was brought to another smokehouse Smitty's. There is a recipe included for those who arent' close to a smokehouseIt's a two day make with the neat being seasoned with salt and pepper the night before for a dry brine.The grill pit itself should be a mix for wood chips and charcoal and cooking it should really take three and a half hours. The cut is also coated in molasses which caramelizes the exterior giving it  a nice crunchy coating.

Barbecue isn't just a fun summertime meal.It's an heir loom recipe going back generations. For some it 's what connects the past with the present.

Memories Of Spring Holidays

 Passover is coming up. Meethi Eid has just passed . Everyone has favorite memories of these holidays. What was your favorite Seder like? Was it the macaroons? The brisket? 

What about Meethi Eid ? Was it the tabouli eat after a day of fasting ?Or was it the dates to celebrate the first bite of the day? Let us know and include recipes

Brisket For The Holidays

 Whether it's Christmas or Hannukah , brisket is the meat to serve.It;s' tasty and can be prepared a number of different ways. Another plus is that it's great for sandwiches the day  after.

What is brisket exactly first of all?It's a large cut of meat from the breast or lower chest of the cow.It is one of the nine beef primal cuts and one of the four main barbecue meats.It's relatively a tough cut because the animal works for moving. You can easily buy it at your grocery store but you'll get a better cut at your butcher's. The best way to soften the meat is slow cooking which breaks down the meat's fibers.If you want to make it for one of the nights then think of cooking it with brown sugar, tomatoes and red wine vinegar for a tangy sweet and sour bite. Serve with carrots and potatoes to round it out. You can also cook the meat first and them create a sauce to pour over it (which also would be good for hot leftovers the next day). Can you oven cook it? Yes! Rub it first with salt and pepper (or any rub).Doing this will create a craggy, crunchy crust that's a crowd pleaser. Then it's cooking it low and slow over night in the oven for twelve to eighteen hours. Keep the temp at 250 degrees farenheit.if it higher it will dry out the brisket and toughen it.Tent it with tinfoil for a tender bite and then leave it uncovered for the last three hours.

Brisket makes a wonderful alternative to ham and turkey for Christmas. Shake it up some by first rubbing it with a mix of garlic, onion and chili powders blended with Cajun seasoning and a teaspoon of liquid smoke.The spices are rubbed on the lean side of the flank and then sprinkle on the liquid smoke. Tightly wrap the brisket in Saran wrap and refrigerate overnight.  While this it chilling make the sauce. Take half an onion and two to three garlic cloves and mix with A1 steak sauce, liquid smoke and Worcester sauce. Add thyme, Cajun spices and cayenne pepper for more spice. This sauce is poured over th e meat and everything is cooked for  six hours.  (You will have to get up super early on Christmas morning if you want it done by one PM) save the pan drippings and cook for ten minutes in a sauce pan over a low flame.  What to serve with this.Roasted sweet potatoes would be good, especially if you serve it with a whipped cinnamon honey butter. Another tasty side is a tangy green bean salad, a change up from the traditional casserole.

Brisket is perfect for either Hannukah or Christmas.The cut is perfect for a family dinner or party. Try it at your holiday gatherings.

Preserve Us!!

It's time to think about a cost effective way  to eat. There's no better way than looking to how our grandparetns and great grandparents found ways to eat cheaply. It comes in the form of preserving and smoking foods. 

Preserving foods can be done. Many home chefs have qualms because they afraid - and rightfully so - about salmonella and botulism. However canning done right can be a great help. You can not only store the best of harvest but also keep feeding from it until the holidays. You will need a canning pot - although any large lobster pot will do - along with canning jars and lids.  The last can come in all shapes and sizes. There are two kids of lids a one piece or a two piece lid or band combination. There are also special tools you'll need to get too. All are stainless steel and they range from a canning funnel to a magnetic lid lifter and bubble remover along with a stainless steel ladle, tongs and canning jar lifter (the jars will be red hot after the preserves are poured into them.Most veggies can be canned as most fruits too. However it;s the canned veggies that will be used for sides  - even for the holidays. Canned produce also make for nice gifts for the holidays especially for those family who are food challenged.Think of them when you can so you can increase the amount of fruits and veggies used.

Another way of preserving food is smoking meats.A perfectly smoked and wrapped piece of meat can last for three months in the freezer.Smoked meat can last four days in the fridge. Beef and pork are the two most popular meats that are smoked.One of the most is a beef brisket which can be flavored a variety of ways. You can try it with garlic Texas style or one with an onion powder sea salt and freshly ground pepper rub. Smoked pork paired with apple is a great October dish.Try one that's been bene first rubbed with olive oil then spritzed with apple juice and apple cider vinegar.Keep spritzing the meat with this as it's smoking.It's usually smoked for two hours at 225 degrees Farenheit. Smoked turkey breast is another great meat that can be smoked and frozen.Keep in mind that it does need to be thawed out for at least three days ( a week is the best). Unlike with roasted turkey, you don;t have to brine it,Just rub either olive oil or butter on it for a nice crispy skin.Season it with salt and pepper. How to thaw out smoked meats?  By letting soak in ice water for two to three hours , Refresh the water once.

Preserving and smoking food is a good way to prepare for the upcoming fall. You can save a ton of money this way. It;'s a great way to pinch pennies while stille enjoying good food.

The Perfect Barbecued Brisket

Brisket can be  delicious yet daunting. Many home chefs skip over it , preferring easier cuts to roast. Yet brisket is wonderful barbecued. It's an easy and flavorful cook.

Steven Raichlen, the king of smoking and barbecue wrote an informative article in this week's New York Times Food section. Chef Raichlen, star of the popular PBS show, Project Fire, knows a thing or two about grilling and barbecue. He offers excellent advice along with getting advice from barbecue chefs, well known for their dishes and recipes. A good barbecued brisket starts with a good brisket.  Don't be intimidated by its' size. The cut weighs anywhere from twelve to eighteen pounds and is known as a packer - so called because it's shipped from the packing house. It is probably the biggest cut of meat a home chef can cook.Its' anatomy can be pretty challenging as well.It's two slightly askew muscles connected with by a seam of fat. One muscle is fatty: the other lean. Both are loaded with collagen rich connective tissue that gives the meat its' structure.It requires  low temperature cooking for most of the day for the proper tenderness. Barbecuing it is just the same, but less intimidating.

When you're cooking brisket, Chef Raichlen suggests keeping in mind, not only the meat, but other components as well.it's more of a smoking than actual cooking over the grill. The meat should be prepped with just salt and pepper. This will form the crust or bark and it should be an equal peppery heat and brininess. Some professional chefs use such strange combinations of dill pickle juice and mustard. The next factor is the smoker. Many swear by an electric one but a charcoal one can do the same job for a lot less money. As for the smoke, a fruitwood like cherry will impart a sweet, smoky flavor. There should be lump charcoal mixed in for more heat. Temperature should be 125 F to start with and the cook should end with 325 F. The meat goes through a kind of doldrums cooking period where the internal temperature stalls at 150 F. This is just the liquid evaporating from the brisket. The meat's inside temp will rise to 325 F . There is the wrap phase when the meat hits 125 F where it is either wrapped in butcher paper or aluminum foil. This seals in the brisket's juices while allowing the excess steam to escape. How can you tell when it's done?  Some jiggle it .Some just poke a finger in it. If it sinks into the fat, it's good. Yet don't eat it right away. Wrap it in more butcher paper and stick in a cooler for two hours. Cut it into slices after you trim away the fat.

It's barbecue season. It's a good time to barbecue a brisket and enjoy it.  This robust cut is well worth the elaborate cooking method.

Down Home Sushi

Where's the best place to get good Japanese food?Not where you'd think. Austen Texas, once home to many a Tex-Mex place now has a large number of Japanese  restaurants. Why here? Blame it on one restaurant that started the spark.

Brett Anderson, the famed New Orleans food critic, wrote about this in today''s New York Times Food section. For a long time Austen, Texas was primarily known for its' amazing Tex-Mex  food as well as barbecue. Thanks to one restaurant,Uchi, the spark of Japanese restaurants grew. Chef Tyson Cole created the eatery due in part to his love of the TV show, the campy "Iron Chef". He also had a job as a dishwasher and server at a sushi place in the downtown part of the city.A big part is is love of Japanese food along with being mentored by Takehiko Fuse, a locally revered Japanese born chef. Uchi gave birth to Uchiko, with its' fusion of Japanese  classics and Texas standards. Chef Cole, winner of the 2011 James Beard award, has been called responsible for rewiring Austen's palate.. There are other chefs , many non-Japanese , who are also expanding the city's tastes. There is Otto Phan ,a Vietnamese Texan, along with Taiwanese Stacy Chen who moved o the area when she was a child. Then there is Paul Qui who won Top Chef in 2011 . American chef Amanda Turner who apprenticed at Uchi is coming back this summer to open up her own Japanese eatery.

Fusion food had to happen. Takuya Matsumoto and Tatsu Aikakwa, chefs and business partners came up with Loro\,a marriage of Texas smokehouse and Japanese bar food. The meat is cooked in a hardwood cooker and served with Asian inspired sauces and sides.Candied kettle corn is made with the burnt eds of brisket and togarashi, a fiery seven spice blend. Diners can get a brisket sandwich and a tofu rice bowl. They can be washed down with alcoholic slushies or beers. Even Loro's decor is roadhouse with a tea house vibe.Another restaurant , their Kemuri-Tatsu-ya also follows this philosophy. They asked themselves what if a Japanese guy came to Texas a century ago . would he be cooking at a roadhouse? Their menu offers everything from Tokyo street corn to  a hot pocket type brisket sandwich.Octopus fritters are topped with chili and jalapenos. There's a sticky rice tamale  that's filled with chorizo, beef tongue and shiitake mushrooms. Even the desserts are  fusions. Roasted banana pudding is flavored with caramel miso and kokuto crunch while the pecan pie has azuki beans in it.

Austen may be in the heart of Texas, but its' heart is in Japan.It's now the center for sushi and ramen. What is great is that it can meld with Texan tradition and create an entirely new cuisine.

What Makes A Good Chili?

Chili recipes are always up for debate. Like pasta sauce and French toast, how it's made is up to the individual home chef. Some add ground beef, others prefer lamb, A few home recipes calls for more beans than chilis. What's the best recipe to use? Stick with the basics and build from there.

That's what New York Times Food great Sam Sifton wrote about in today's Wednesday 's issue. Chili always causes a great debate. everyone has his or her own opinions on it He suggests starting with the bare bones of the recipe, using fellow co-writer Julia Moskin's chili formula. The most important ingredient is protein. Whatever you use, make sure it is high in fat and flavor. Use a quarter of a pound per person. What's the best meat? Mr. Sifton recommends chuck beef from the steer's shoulder,however short ribs and brisket are also good choices.A good idea is mixing cuts. Add stew meat to ground. Pork can also work as can lamb. You can go low calorie with chicken or turkey but remember that they can dry out. if this is the case, Mr, Sifton suggests a few strips of bacon to keep things juicy. Dark meat can also be used because its' got  fat too or you can use duck meat which is also rife with fat. Game meats such as venison, buffalo and even moose (!)along with marsh duck and pheasant. Vegans can add beans or fake beef crumbles as I do.Many Texans consider adding beans to be sacrilige but they can add more flavor and more protein

The next big debate are the chilis used. Mr. Sifton gives a entire list with their definitions. Most people, including myself, just use a heaping tablespoon or two of chili powder, an amalgam of dried chilis , paprika dried oregano and dried garlic. Authentic chilis use poblanos. These are big green peppers that are not too wild in their heat. Their color changes to red as they ripen. These are perfect for those who don;t want a five alarm bowl. For a sweeter and smokier mix try blending in ancho peppers. They can range from mild to medium hot, The pasilla pepper is a dark chocolate brown color of moderate pungency and brings a great deepness of flavor. Of course jalapeno brings spark to the table. Smoke and dry it and then transform into a chipotle. Chimayo is a New Mexican genus and its deep adobe red hue turns the chili the same rich brick color,Another suggestion from Mr. Sifton is also using chili powder along with the actual chilis themselves.  You can make your own powder . A good recipe is taken from Texas restaurateur Robb Walsh. It's toasting three ancho peppers in a pan, allow them to cool and add half a teaspoon of pan roasted cumin seeds. Garlic powder and dried oregano are also added. Everything is ground in a spice mill. An easier way is just add a heaping tablespoon of commercial chili powder to the mix

Chili is in the eye of the beholder. Stick with whatever works and whatever is delicious. It's the kind of recipe that c n be varied if you want  something new.

New Spins On An Ancient Holiday

Tonight starts the ancient holiday of Hanukah, the festival of lights. it's a time of presents , games and most importantly feasting. Many used tried and true family recipes, but there's nothing wrong in trying them with fresh spins.

Lakes are always associated with this Jewish holiday. The oil that they're fried in has come to symbolize the miracle of the oil lasting in the temple for eight days (hence the eight branches of the menorah too). The recipe is a basic one, using shredded potatoes, usually Yukon Gold and grated onions.  You could sub in any root vegetable for the spuds. Try parsnips for a different spin. They  have a sweet carrot like flavor that would go well with sour cream or even apple sauce.Even turnips can be used for the tasty treats, just remember to use the smaller ones. Larger turnips tend to have a woody taste while the smaller ones have a sweet pleasant taste. Both can be combined with potatoes for a mellower taste Another idea is sweet potato latkes. Add cinnamon and brown sugar to the recipe to make them more of a dessert treat..As for the sour cream itself, you could jazz it up with a small dab of wasabi or cayenne pepper. For a milder flavor, try a drizzle of dark lavender infused honey. Looking for less calories? Then sub in Greek yogurt which has a lighter, cleaner taste than pure sour cream. A fancier idea is creme fraiche. For more decadence, top with a small sliver of salmon or a tiny teaspoon of caviar.

For a bigger crowd think brisket. It's versatile and can be prepared in a variety of different ways. Serve it slow cooked in Coca-Cola. The soda's sweetness is tempered by the addition of  ancho chili powder and paprika as well as red wine.If this may be too sugary, then think coffee braised. This does have some sweetness too, but it's only a quarter of a cup of brown sugar to two cups of brewed coffee.For a fun Hanukah party consider brisket sliders. These are easy to make, with shredding the meat and mixing it with a spice infused tomato puree.These can also be grilled  like barbecue, with a sweet sauce thanks to one made with honey. Cayenne pepper and smoked paprika stop it from being too candylike. Any form of brisket can be served with the latkes for a heartier meal. How to finish ? With the Israelial Hannukah specialty  - sufganiyot, or jelly doughnut. It's usually filled with raspberry or strawberry jelly, but any other flavor will do. Another fun twist is adding cocoa powder to the dough . Filled with a rich jam or marmalade, this makes a decadent holiday treat. You could even dust the doughnuts with cocoa powder after frying.

Hanukah is the festival of lights . Make the holiday brighter with tasty latkes or brisket, Make it sweeter with homemade sufganiyot. Enjoy these new twists for an ancient holiday.

Cooking favorites With Gail Simmons

Everyone has a  favorite dish .It's the go to for dinner parties or holiday meal. It's that comfort food or treat we turn to when times get tough. Imagine a whole cookbook filledwith all sorts of delicious recipes for both food and drink. Now home chefs can, thanks to celebrity chef and Food Channel star  Gail Simmons. Her new cookbook is a must have for any kitchen,

Bringing It Home (Grand Central Publishing 2017) was written by Ms. Simmons and Mindy Fox. and it features everything from fun cocktails and  nibbles to roasts and sides. She knows food thanks to her background for helping out Vogue Food editor, Jeffrey Steingarten to being one of the most popular judges on the Food Channel favorite Top Chef for the last few years. Her book has deeply detailed descriptions on vital kitchen gadgets as well as what every well stocked pantry should have.These also are described in depth so no home chef can ever buy the wrong ingredient after reading it. Another important bonus is the chapter on chef lessons worth bringing it home. These are tips ranging from when to add salt to knowing when a dish needs acid. I like the fact that most of the recipes also have additions such as Kitchen Wisdom which are little asides about shopping, cutting or cleaning ingredients and Snippets (also one of Ms Simmons' childhood nicknames) that have fun facts about the food. There is also Chef Tech which gives home chefs and bakers tips about preparation  and cooking. Because of these the book is a great gift for novice chefs who still may have qualms about cooking and baking.

The recipes not only reflect her traveling, both with family and for Top Chef but also her Jewish and Canadian background. There are recipes for chopped liver and pork and beans Quebecois, an homage to her grandmother.  The book is divided   up into such chapters as Begin The Day For breakfast, Poultry and Meat along with Drinks - non-alcoholic sips and Drink-Drinks, the real deal. Ms. Simmons gives an easy recipe for soft boiled eggs along with the fancier Bloody Mary Eggs that's a spin on the North African dish shakshura. Imagine this for brunch, washed down with her Pickle Juice (!) Martini. She has excellent meat dishes such as Piri-Piri Roast Chicken, chicken zinged up with the ancho chilis, fresh ginger and coriander and Not Your Mama's Horseradish Brisket, in which the traditional cut is coated with garlic and horseradish. There are also excellent sides too, such as salt and vinegar smashed potatoes and grilled radishes. The two favorite sections are the Nibbles and Sweets chapters are chock full of fun recipes. I want to try her Crispy Chickpeas, spiced up with dukkah, the Egyptian spice blend for a snack while her Toasted Hazelnut Tarte Au Sucre would make a nice change up for pie during the holidays. Her bourbon marshmallows also sound like a real treat, especially floating in her dark hot cocoa.

Bringing It Home is a cornucopia of Gail Simmons favorite recipes.It's a great book, chock full of all sorts dishes and desserts. Her favorites  are so tasty and delicious that they're sure to be everyone's else's favorites too.

Come Food Or High Water

A hurricane is a devastating event for anyone A super hurricane like Harvey or Irma that left five to six feet of water is catastrophic - especially to a home chef passionate about cooking. Yet many Houston residents made do and persevered. They were inventive and resilient,  still creating tasty dishes despite hardship.

 Kim Severson, a Southerner herself visited several Houston homes and interviewed residents, including the mayor's wife who had suffered the wrath of Hurricane Harvey. Kitchens were completely torn apart, soaked to ruin by flood waters. Some were even visited by alligators! One famed local cook, Al Marcus, managed to wipe down surfaces with a bleached rag and cook up a brisket for the All Hands Volunteers who ripped out the sheetrock from his home and countless others.He is known for his big Thanksgiving meals and will not disappoint. He plans on hosting this year, even if it means eating in a hollowed shell of a dining room. Francine Spiering, a food writer and recipe developer lost everything. Her favorite knives are gone along with forty cookbooks, plates and platters. Her home office was also  located in the kitchen.She is salvaging as best she could - but restoring the kitchen could take up to six months.There is hope , though. A Dallas woman has raised enough money to send dozens of Instant Pots, slow cookers, that will be used as ovens.Others who understand what it's like to go through disaster have donated, food, cutlery, and coolers.

Some home chefs are ingenious. Dana Karni, a lawyer, who loves to cook transformed her kids' playroom into a makeshift kitchen. She and her sixteen year old son carried a small chest freezer up to the  second floor. The contents were precious - the salmon she had caught with her dad on a trip to Alaska.Also upstairs her set of good Japanese knives which would have had another use had the waters risen more. She had planned on using them to cut a hole in the roof so she and her children could escape. Their linen closet is now the pantry and there is an espresso maker on master bath vanity.A few Houstonites like Aimee Ally Taylor and her family bounced around to four different homes before finding a nearby house with a working kitchen. Many have lost a lot, from beef that was eaten by gators to casks of homemade vinegar and vanilla.  All of them have dreams of what their new kitchens will look like.The mayor's wife , Andrea White,wants a cookstove against the wall, and not on a kitchen island as it previously was.Perla Moncivais, thinks about an open concept with a table , big and roomy enough for her four children .It will take a while as witnessed with Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans.

Houston will survive, So will the home chefs who cook phenomenal meals. A hurricane won't stop these dynamos - not when it comes to cooking.

A Marriage Of Old And New Rosh Hashanah Dishes

 The Jewish New Year is upon us and it's a time to celebrate with the traditional. It's also a time to embrace the new as well. Both ideas can also mean the Rosh Hashanah table, with a marriage of family recipes along with introducing different dishes. This will make for a more interesting meal.

Brisket has always been the centerpiece of the holiday table. It's been enjoyed  for generations, usually braised. Many will cook ones with onions added, to give it a sweet and earthy flavor. A sweet and sour sauce , with crushed tomatoes, brown sugar and garlic, can also be used. More adventurous cooks can try rubs such as a garlic and onion rub or ones spiked  with chile powder. Chicken is another choice to try for the holiday. Think of making it with cinnamon and apples for that touch of sweetness that represents a sweet new year. Another recipe that's a blend of sweet and savory is  one made with pomegranate or cranberry juice along with Granny Smith apples and the traditional ingredient of honey. Cayenne pepper is added for bite and kick.This calls for the chicken to be cut into pieces and cooked in a Dutch oven.Every family has vegans and they should be considered into the equation as well.Think tofu, zested up with cumin and ginger Moroccan  style. This is an easy dish, with first cooking the tofu, then setting it aside to create a sauce redolent with onions , garlic and scallions. Almonds and apricots are added for crunch and sweetness.

Side dishes are just as important as the main ones. If the family insists on traditional then think tzimmes, but maybe with a slight twist. Try a trio of yams, sweet potatoes, and carrots, cooked in orange juice, honey and chicken broth.If it's too sweet add a sprinkle of flaky sea salt to cut the sugar. Salads can also be incorporated into the dinner. Use the super green of the moment - kale mixed with pomegranate seeds covered with an almond halvah (!) dressing. For crunch and zing try the Sephardic Jewish  inspired lemon fried cauliflower .This is breading the boiled florets in a breadcrumb batter and then frying them in oil. They are then drenched with lemon juice to cut the oiliness.Carrots are a big part of any Rosh Hashanah meal. Roast baby ones with olive oil, honey,  and orange zest. They can be also served with basmati rice , spiked with raisins and almonds. This is also a good main dish for vegans too.  How to end the meal? With the traditional honey cake. The timeless recipe is spiced with cloves and allspice but it can be modernized with coffee and even whiskey (!) It can even be baked into cupcakes Decorate with dried apple slices and drizzles of honey.

Rosh Hashanah is a time of celebrating the new while holding on to tradition. Create a holiday meal that reflects this. Use old and new recipes to create a unique New Year's dinner.

Brisket For The Holiday

With the holidays coming up within the week, it's a good time to look at what to serve. One of the staples of any Rosh Hashanah  table is brisket. This classic cut is versatile and can also be made for any fall dinner. Make it in a variety of ways.

What is brisket exactly? It's breast meat from the cow and it can be tough. The reason why is that the meat  serves as the cow's collarbone - mostly comprised of muscles and connective tissue. This does make it ideal for barbecuing and many home chefs only cook it this way. However, it is also ideal for a slow cooker and of course, braising. Before doing all this the perfect cut needs to be bought. What should a home chef look for? A really white layer of fat. The whiter the better because it indicates that the cow has been grain  fed.Stay away from any that have yellowing fat. A dark butter hue  means that the meat is older along with indicating  that there is more gristle to deal with when cooking and eating. The meat should be a dark red color. Another must is good marbling . Look for a cut that has an equal amount of fat and flesh  veining it. The last thing to do is picking up the meat  and its' package and bending them. The cut  should be flexible and the plastic wrap should not have any tears, rips, or holes. The ideal place to buy a brisket is the local butcher's however if there's none within your area, then go for the supermarket. Most groceries usually have pretty good cuts and a variety of sizes to choose from too.

Now what to do with it. David Tanis gave an excellent recipe for it in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. He first rubs it with a fiery mix of cayenne and paprika blended with salt and  pepper. After doing this, wrap it in Saran wrap and then refrigerate preferably overnight but it can also sit for a few hours too.It is then cooked in a 300 degree F oven . Pour a cup of either red or white wine over it  then add cloves, garlic bayleaf  and  allspice berries. Mr. Tanis scatters sliced onions over it and bakes it forth ree hours until tender. He also caramelizes more  onions  and ladles them over the brisket once its' sliced.. If this is too "onion.y" for you, then omit them.Scallions can be sprinkled on top for more flavor.  For a different taste try a sweet and sour version in which ketchup and brown sugar is used.Cook the brisket in a Dutch oven or skillet and then adding the two along with water, cider vinegar, and two sliced onions. This last  creates a sauce that's then ladled over the brisket slices.It can be refrigerated and reheated  too., although eating it freshly cooked is preferred. Serve any brisket with carrots, celery and potatoes.

Brisket is a nice way of welcoming in Rosh Hashanah. It is the centerpiece of the holiday table and works well with any cooking method. Celebrate with a good  cut ,delicious on its' own or with onions ad other vegetables./

Salsafy!

Today being Cinco de Mayo, and the emphasis is on all food Mexican. It's always so delicious with the variety of spices married to simple ingredients. Other recipes can certainly benefit from these ingredients and spices. Cooking Mexican style can definitely liven up any ordinary meal.

One of the most popular condiments in Mexican cuisine is salsa. Everyone usually pours it into a bowl and plunk tortilla chips in it. However no many know it can turn into a popping dressing. Mix a cup of  fresh or jarred salsa with a quarter cup of apple cider vinegar and three to four tablespoons of olive oil. Smoky paprika can be added for a different layer of flavor. If you want a smoother textured dressing pour into a blender or blend to smooth with an immersion blender. It'll be great with either a chicken or grilled steak salad. The dip can also be tasty in a frittata with the addition of chorizo and chopped sweet onion.If you want more zing , toss in some sliced jalapeno. Add some rice and black beans for a zingy brunch dish or a fun Saturday or Sunday night supper.Oregano, long a staple in Italian cooking is also a must have in Mexican. Its' aromatic scent and flavor can also add zing to cooked string beans with onions Try some sprigs in a white bean chili that's loaded with canalini beans , ground turkey and onions. Cumin is another spice prevalent in Mexican cooking. Many people associate it with Indian cuisine but it is also used frequently in many south of the border recipes.It's usually in taco and fajita fillings but could easily be added to homemade burgers and meat loaf for added zest.

Mole has always been misunderstood by many American home chefs.Mention adding chocolate to any main dish and watch them cringe or wrinkle their noses.Mole is simply a mix of unsweetened cocoa powder, dried garlic and cumin blended with vegetable oil and tomato  puree. Ancho, pastillo and chipotle peppers are added for fire. Chicken is the most popular meat served with it but it can also be ladled on roast pork or brisket. Shred both meats and serve them in soft or hard tacos for a fun weekday dinner.Grilled veggies such as eggplant and zucchini  can also benefit from this zippy sauce. Chili powder, one of the most well known of Mexican cuisine ingredients , is not only for a five alarm chili but for other dishes as well. It gives boring grilled shrimp a burst of flavor.It's simply brining the seafood in a mix of chili powder, sugar and four cups of water. The spiced shrimp is then sauteed in a mix of vegetable oil, garlic and ginger. Surprisingly the spice can also turn simple chocolate cupcakes into the culinary equivalent of fireworks. Just add a teaspoon and a half of dried
ancho chili powder to any devil's food cake mix or scratch recipe.It and cayenne can even be added to a cream cheese icing for more spark.

Salsify and satisfy tastebuds with the flavorful ingredients  of Mexican cuisine.They'll bring an exciting edge to any meal or sweet!

Easter And Passover Catered Or Home Cooked?

Nothing beats a holiday with a table full of food and tradition especially the. Easter and Passover ones. With them comes the question of catered or home cooked? Would it better and easier on the home chef if the whole brunch or dinner was cooked? Or are family recipes important and vital in keeping up tradition?

Easter may be the easier dinner - especially in the States - to have catered. Every family has different traditions. Southern Italians and Greeks are the most traditional, cooking and baking foods and bread recipes that have been passed down for centuries.Everyone else usually just makes ham and a few sides.Some groceries such as Acme and Stop & Shop will work with you to create the perfect holiday dinner. They'll offer sliced ham and/or turkey along with sides such as potato  and macaroni salads along with throwing in a festive Easter cake.Easter brunch is always popular and there are shops and caterers who will bring in such brunch favorites as quiche, scrambled eggs and even French toast.Of course, all of this can be made at home and there is a lot of control as to the ingredients. If you don't want an elaborate Easter meal, then think of a German style one.It's a roast ham with do it yourself potato salad and handcrafted baked beans. All these are labor intensive but the homemade taste is worth it. Dessert can be a simple lamb, bunny or egg shaped cake, and again these can be baked on Holy Saturday.

Passover is a bit trickier because there are strict family traditions involved.  Some Kosher markets can cater the entire menu, creating even better versions of tsimme  - a sweet stew of carrots and dried fruit and charoset - the sweet paste of apples, cinnamon, and raisins, symbolizing the mortar used in building the pyramids. Many caterers will offer such traditonal dishes as kugel but with a hip twist such as broccoli and spinach added.The main courses could be an entire brisket or roast chicken or both if you're hosting a crowd. caterers can also supply chopped liver and gefilte fish too. yet there is something in making decades old family recipe too.Relatives may want the family version of charoset which is not only rich in flavor but also stories too. They also make want just your matzoh ball soup, because of the way you make the balls or because you add scallions for bite and color. Unlike Easter, Passover lasts  a week and you could easily cook one night and have the second night seder catered. It's up to you and what you can handle.

Catering or home cooked? What makes for a better holiday meal. It's up to you and what you want.

A St Paddy's Special Home Corned Beef

St Patrick's Day is next week and it's a day of corned beef accompanied by boiled potatoes and of course, green tinted beer. It's a traditional meal but not necessarily a tasty one.Thanks to bad cuts of beef and nasty corning methods, it would come out as a gummy, overly salty slab.That's changing, thanks to both professional and home chefs salting it themselves.

Sam Sifton wrote about this classic Irish -American dish in yesterday's New York Times Food section.The best corned beef comes from New York's Jewish delis where it shines. The meat is a ruddy pink, perfectly salted and fatty. Home chefs now can have this delicious version  According to Bryan Polcyn and Michael Ruhlman, authors of "Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing" the process is easy , and will turn ordinary beef into something extraordinary.The process is an old one, starting in the 1800's, in where else - Ireland.The process is named after the large grains of salts that resembled corn kernels.  Curing and.packing plants throughout the Emerald Isle used them to cure slabs of beef that eventually went into barrels and then cans and onto ships to feed others.Someone , either in Boston or the Bahamas,  over boiled either a beef neck or brisket with a head of cabbage and called it dinner. That's the corned beef and cabbage we all grew up on.

That version of it will change with home brining and curing. The only reason home corned beef never caught on was the scarcity of the corns, These are sodium nitrate, that turns the meat that tender shade of pink.They can be found on Amazon under the name Prague powder or curing salt. Originally it was used for forestalling the growth of bacteria but it also gave plain beef a better taste. For those worried about ingesting nitrate, have no fear. Mr. Ruhlman  says ingesting a small amount is harmless, noting that we ingest nitrates when we eat vegetables which draw nitrogen from the surrounding soil. It's then creating a brine with it and whatever spices are desirable.. Home chefs could try coriander, mustard seed and black peppercorns,. Allspice will give it a zippy, smoky flavor as well ground ginger and cinnamon. Bay leaves are good too. The recipe Mr. Sifton gives has pickling spices, which is all those spices aforementioned along with garlic cloves and sugar. A four to five pound  brisket is used and is brined for four to five days. It is then cooked in a blend of beer and ginger beer.A novel idea is turning it into Irish tacos with shredded cabbage that have a jolt of jalapeno. - which is a whole lot better than having a slab of it with a boiled potato.

Home cured corned beef is the perfect treat for Saint Patrick's Day. Brine it the right way and it's a salty pink delight , perfect in a sandwich or as a taco. Enjoy it with a good stout or Guinness for the holiday.

Know Your Marinades

It's the beginning of grilling  season and that means marinated meats and veggies. The question is what kind of marinades work well with them? Will a simple oil and spice  one work for all or just one particular kind of meat? What about barbecue sauce? Or rubs -are they considered  a kind of marinade.Beginner grillers will have all sorts of questions regarding this.

A marinade in simplest terms is oil, an acid and some kind of flavoring - sort of like a vinaigrette dressing.The marinade acts as both a tenderizer and flavoring.The tough fibers that make up the meat are broken down thanks to the acid in the vinegar, creating a tender melt in your mouth cut. Since beef is a bit tougher than chicken , it pays to have a strong acid in marinade such as wine vinegar or red wine itself.This kind of bath is perfect for a brisket, a thick cut that is often grilled. A great marinade for it is one that has both wine and  red wine vinegar. Lemon juice can also be added for more tenderizing. As for flavoring, try robust spices such as cayenne pepper and dried mustard. Steak , another barbecue favorite also gets a hearty marinade in the form of red wine vinegar mixed with Worcestershire sauce tempered with olive oil.Oregano and thyme are the herbs used for flavor. Barbecue sauce can also be used for red meat too.It's sweeter, but still has the same effect thanks to the addition of apple cider vinegar which also acts as a tenderizer.A rub isn't considered a marinade because it's not liquid .It can be added to a barbecue sauce however as an ingredient to a marinade.

Remember that what works for a steak and brisket may not work for chicken. Those robust baths of wine and red wine vinegar may turn poultry into mush. Stick with lighter acids such as lemon, lime or even orange juice. Rosemary can be used as the flavoring along with oregano. Many people love the flavor of lemon pepper chicken and it can be replicated in a marinade. Use freshly cracked peppercorns along with a third of a cup of lemon  juice. Since this produces a delicate flavor use a delicate herb such as dill to round it out. Fowl can work well with any fruit so think about a pineapple marinade that also includes honey and soy salt for a kick of savory. Orange juice based marinades can  also liven up  a barbecued chicken. Use freshly squeezed mixed with olive oil and hot sauce for a real kicky marinade. It can work with fish and pork too. What about veggies? Should they be marinated? Absolutely!Even veggies such as mushrooms can be tenderized for delicious chewiness.Start with balsamic vinegar mixed with olive oil and then throw in fresh ground pepper and basil for flavor.It's usually a three to four hour soak before grilling You can also
 sub in fresh rosemary or parsley for the basil for an entirely different taste.

A good marinade makes for a good barbecue. Just remember that the heartier ones are more for red meat while the lighter ones will suit poultry just fine. It'll make for a delicious grilling season , full of tender, delicious cuts.

Brisket OnThe BBQ

Normally brisket wouldn't be considered something to put on the grill.Flanks steaks, and shoulder cuts ,yes ,ribs most certainly but not brisket.It"s more of a piece preferable for a slow cooker.Yet brisket , roasted over a fire actually makes sense.The plump roast is perfect for a long slow grilling , bursting with flavor. New York Times Dining section regular ,Julia Moskin , has set about to prove this right.She visits various eateries throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn,sampling slices and getting advice.Some of the best barbecue place these days are in these areas.Texas style whole briskets are now being made and served at the Mighty Quinn"s Barbecue and of all places on Hester Street.These are not really traditional roasts.Think of them more as hipster briskets for millenials.The flavor is a lighter one along with using prime grade beef instead of using a lesser quality.There is even some barbecue masters who add sauce, a usual taboo in the grilling world.Not only that sides are changing too.Instead of heavier , more calories rich dishes such as potato salad, white bread and pinto beams.Eateries like The Mighty Quinn"s decided on a roast corn and edamane salad.This is an airy side, not soaked with mayo but laced with a dressing of lime, cilantro and honey.Dennis Ngo, of Lonestar Empire infuses his brisket with his Vietnamese roots. Takes the ends and makes them into summer rolls. No matter what you eventually do with your brisket, it is relatively easy to cook.Finding a good brisket may be akin to a treasure hunt, however, according to Ms. Moskin.A whole brisket consists of two muscles, the flat and the point. The first, which is always sold on it's own, is too lean to be barbecued on it's own,braised, however, it does make a nice pot roast.The latter point must be attached for barbecuing along with the sheath of fat that covers everything..A butcher can order a whole brisket for any chef and it will only be a few days of waiting.Some stores such as CostCo .WalMart and Restaurant Depot will have them.Once had, home chefs should now break all the barbecue rules.The grill temp should be only 225-250 degrees..Also think a ten to twelve hour roast. You can take it off sooner but be prepared for a chewy fibrous texture.The brisket should be cooked in a kettle grill although most brisket lovers use a backyard smoker.You can serve it later with raw onions on onion rolls as Brooklyn'S Hometown Barbecue rolls from nearby Caputo "s Bake Shop in nearby Carroll Gardens.You can also make sliders with them ,using King's Hawaiian Rolls. Barbecued brisket is a nice vacation from the usual grilled fare.Yes it does take time but the result is worth it.A meltingly tender piece of meat that is lightly seasoned and slow cooked to perfection.

Your Spring Holiday Meats

With the start of Passover and Easter just a few days away, now is the time to decide what to serve.For an Easter dinner it's ham or lamb while Passover choices are brisket, turkey or chicken.If you pick a top quality main dish ,it will be a memorable holiday for sure.Choose the best for the meal's centerpiece . Many people have a hard time picking a Passover meat.Brisket is traditional however many are opting for chicken or turkey.Brisket is from the chest of the cow and is usually the toughest piece of beef.However it is one of the most flavorful too.You should always buy the best grade .Go for the packer cut kinds because they have the points missing .You can buy the other kind and perhaps the best place to get it is an old fashioned butcher,He can cut off the fatty parts and offer advice too.Turkey isn't as in demand right now as it is during the fall and winter.You can still buy it and it will probably be cheaper. It is labor intensive however. An easier version is just getting the breast.If you want another kind of poultry ,then think baked Cornish hens. This kind is also acceptable .Cook as you would the chicken.You can pay more at a butcher or market but you can also get them at any kosher supermarket. Easter brings about a choice, ham or lamb.Ham can be either city or countryMost Easter ones are city hams, that are one brine cured ,smoked and fully cooked.Country hams are fresh,and cured directly by being rubbed with salt or sugar.Your best bet is getting a cut with the highest grade.It has a delicate pork flavor and has a lean texture resembling a chop.It should also have a small amount of water too.Lamb is also another traditional meat served for both Easter and Passover.You can try the New Zealand/Australian breed or the American.There is a marked texture and taste difference.The New Zealand, or Aussie kinds are low in fat making them slightly more difficult to cook.The are a bit tougher and gamy.American raised lambs are much more tender and tend to have a sweeter flavor.They are more expensive however .The next choice is boned or boneless.A boned leg of lamb is heavier to lift out of the oven.A lack of it though means that it's harder to cook and it's harder to cook to the right temperature. Spring holiday meats should be the highlight of the celebration.Choose what is right for you ,your traditions and your level of skill.The result will be a tasty and memorable main meal cooked well and deliciously.

Healthier Holidays

The Spring holidays are almost here and with it comes a wealth of food.While the dishes are traditional ,they're not always healthy. A better alternative is keeping centuries old dishes but creating them with a more nutritious twist Passover and Easter both demand big meals. Passover is usually celebrated with a roasted brisket the first night and maybe chicken the next . Instead, try just chicken and then celebrate with vegetarian fare. take advantage of Spring vegetables by roasting a variety. There can still be the standard haroset and bitter herbs. Easter as well is celebrated with either a ham or a lamb.Think healthier with chicken or even turkey.Both go well with the veggie of the season asparagus.Also a side dish of roasted veggies is a nice alternative to stuffing or potato salad. sweets also play an important part ,especially in Easter. Cookies, cake and candy are great but they'll leave both kids and adults hyper.Instead get a token chocolate bunny for the kids and have fresh fruit bunnies and chicks. StSick eyes ,feet and beaks (which can be picked up at any craft store) and stick them on nectarines . Cut out little bunny ears and again put on plums or peaches. Fill Easter eggs with grapes , sunflower seeds or just fun stickers.Passover called for dense flour less cakes however think light with fruit trays or fruit kabobs.Even freshly made fruit sorbets can be a nice ending to any holiday meal. The holidays call for food.Instead of creating calorie rich dishes,think light and healthy.The meal can still reflect tradition but can also can reflect healthier fare.Eating light can be the start of a new tradition.

Foodie In A Blizzard

Even though it's still fall, there are some parts of the world that are undergoing their first heavy snowfall. In other words its' blizzard season!This goes well with the holiday atmosphere yet it can strike panic in the hearts of foodies. What do we stock up on? What would be the best meal to make during these times? For that matter what's the heartiest meal to eat ?

The golden rule for any disaster is stock up on the food basics - eggs milk and bread. there's a lot you can do with these. ,from French toast to just scrambled eggs on toast. Also have coffee and tea along with some frozen dinners. (no joke here. You'll be exhausted after snow shoveling and won't want to make a home cooked meal) Another staple is pasta. It's easy to cook and there's nothing like a hearty spaghetti meal after a day outside. If you have room in your fridge also think about storing comfort foods like brisket. This makes for a nice pot roast which is the perfect cold weather meal. it's hearty and filling especially when served with its' own gravy and vegetables.

Of course a blizzard also means being stuck inside. have rolls of cookie dough at the ready for something to do. This also eliminates the extra chore of holiday baking. Snacks and soda are musts too. There's nothing like watching a movie on a snowy night, complete with a bowl of hot buttered popcorn . Also have chips and sour cream because the night could also turn into family game night where there' ;bound to be plenty of snacking.

Be a prepared foodie when those first heavy flakes start drifting downward. Have your fridge, freezer and pantry stocked not only with the basics but also with fave s to get you through the first big snow of the season. You can just stay in and eat - the perfect thing foodie thing to do during a blizzard!