Those Smoking Hams

 One of the joys of any Easter dinner is a smoked ham. The flavor is a perfect blend of earthy and sweet, a great foil for asparagus. Surprisingly you can make it at home.

Steven Raichlen, grill master extrordinaire and host of the very popular PBS show Project Fire wrote this article and how to in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Keep in mind if you do want to do this, you have a short window of time because curing does take six days and Easter is only ten days away. You could do this for small family gathering later on in the season. The method is for a wet cure  not a dry cure one. Dry cured hams are rubbed with salts and left to dry for several months , resulting in a tight satiny texture and complex flavor associated with prosciutto and the Spanish jamon serrano, the last costing up to $1000. Wet cured ham, soaks in a mix of water,  salt, and sodium nitrate. The last you can buy on line from the Sausage Maker or Hoosier Hill Farm. Then there's the equipment,  Use either a stockpot , bucket or even a three gallon resealable plastic bag. There's also a marinade injector which gets all the meat cured and juicy. Then there's the actual smoking You can use a kettle style grill or charcoal burning one with a lid. The wood chips are what make the flavor. Chef Raichlen recommends using apple or hickory.

What about the cut used? A shoulder ham is recommended simply because it's small and can accommodate a smaller gathering of people. This is the easiest to smoke and cure in a week . You can also do this to a pork loin (which Chef Raichlen offers a recipe for , complete with a cognac orange glaze). As for the brine he adds a spice bundle of cloves, allspice berries,bay leaves, lemon zest strips and whole black peppercorns. The actual brine is made from water, Morton Kosher salt, honey , dark brown sugar and Prague powder #1 , the sodium nitrate needed. The brine is first made and then the spice bundle is added. As this is all boiling , the ham is prepared ,its' exterior scored with a sharp knife. The ham is placed with the brine in the roasting pot.It's also injected with it and then placed in the fridge for at least three days. The meat will take on a pinkish hue after three days of brining and being injected. It's now ready to be smoked. Set the grill temp at 250 degrees Farenheit, and put it on indirect heat. Put the ham on the grate fat side up and cook until it's handsomely brown and cooked through. It'll take seven hours. Keep adding wood chips to produce a steady stream of steam. evenly rotate the meat so it's nicely browned all over. drape it loosely with foil if it's browning too much.

Home cured ham for Easter is a real treat. Any ambitious home chef can cook this and have a memorable holiday meal. It's a delicious treat perfect for the season.

The Perfect Rib Guide

One of the joys of summer is barbecued ribs. There's nothing like sinking your teeth into juicy, well seasoned meat. Yet prepping and grilling them takes some skill. Luckily there's a quick guide for rib lovers.

Steven Rajchlen , the famed PBS chef of such shows as Project Smoke, Project Fire, Primal Grill and Barbecue Grill wrote this must keep article in today's New York Times Food section. He gives six steps in which even the novice griller can produce juicy, flavorful ribs. The first step is selecting the right ribs. Keep in mind that one pig provides four different kinds of ribs. There are baby backs, sometimes referred to as top loin, spare ribs, rib tips and country style. Chef, Rajchlen recommends using the baby backs. They have the most marbling and the tenderest meat making them the quickest to cook.If possible buy them  from a heritage pork breed like Berkshire or Kurobuta or Mangalitsa. They do cost more but they have the best and most intense pork taste  For more bite it's then layering flavors.Start with a slather of Dijon mustard brushed on both sides. Next comes a rub. Chef Rajchlen uses a blend of brown sugar, celery seed, salt, pepper and chile powder. The third layer comes from apple cider which is spritzed on halfway through cooking., (Get a spray bottle for this). This keeps the meat moist. For the fourth layer or varnish, use a chipotle bourbon sauce. All these layers are featured in the article.

The third step is grilling over indirect heat.It's cooking the meat over charcoal. Chef Rajchlen gives the how to for different kinds of grills. Most home chefs have the basic barbecue where you put the meat in tin foil to catch the fat. Step four is applying the smoke. wood smoke is the unami of barbecue. What wood to use? There are several that would impart a good flavor. Think cherry,apple or hickory. Many go for mesquite because it has a strong earthy flavor that goes well with the pork. Soak the chips in water first to slow down the rate of combustion so the chips smolder and smoke. This prevents them from catching fire. if you have a pellet grill, the flavor and smoke are already built into the pellets. You can smoke ribs in your oven and they will turn out fine. As this is going on it's time to cook the sauce. Namely it's slathering on a homemade one on the meat the last twenty minutes of cooking. Move the ribs right over the fire so the brown sugar in the sauce caramelizes and sears it into the meat. The last step is knowing when the ribs are done. The sign is when the meat shrinks from the bone. A quarter to half inch of bone should be showing at the end of the rib. You should be able to pull the meat apart but there should be some resistance.

This is rib season. Make a delicious flavorful rack that chewy and tasty. It's easy with this simple and helpful guide.

The Perfect Barbecued Brisket

Brisket can be  delicious yet daunting. Many home chefs skip over it , preferring easier cuts to roast. Yet brisket is wonderful barbecued. It's an easy and flavorful cook.

Steven Raichlen, the king of smoking and barbecue wrote an informative article in this week's New York Times Food section. Chef Raichlen, star of the popular PBS show, Project Fire, knows a thing or two about grilling and barbecue. He offers excellent advice along with getting advice from barbecue chefs, well known for their dishes and recipes. A good barbecued brisket starts with a good brisket.  Don't be intimidated by its' size. The cut weighs anywhere from twelve to eighteen pounds and is known as a packer - so called because it's shipped from the packing house. It is probably the biggest cut of meat a home chef can cook.Its' anatomy can be pretty challenging as well.It's two slightly askew muscles connected with by a seam of fat. One muscle is fatty: the other lean. Both are loaded with collagen rich connective tissue that gives the meat its' structure.It requires  low temperature cooking for most of the day for the proper tenderness. Barbecuing it is just the same, but less intimidating.

When you're cooking brisket, Chef Raichlen suggests keeping in mind, not only the meat, but other components as well.it's more of a smoking than actual cooking over the grill. The meat should be prepped with just salt and pepper. This will form the crust or bark and it should be an equal peppery heat and brininess. Some professional chefs use such strange combinations of dill pickle juice and mustard. The next factor is the smoker. Many swear by an electric one but a charcoal one can do the same job for a lot less money. As for the smoke, a fruitwood like cherry will impart a sweet, smoky flavor. There should be lump charcoal mixed in for more heat. Temperature should be 125 F to start with and the cook should end with 325 F. The meat goes through a kind of doldrums cooking period where the internal temperature stalls at 150 F. This is just the liquid evaporating from the brisket. The meat's inside temp will rise to 325 F . There is the wrap phase when the meat hits 125 F where it is either wrapped in butcher paper or aluminum foil. This seals in the brisket's juices while allowing the excess steam to escape. How can you tell when it's done?  Some jiggle it .Some just poke a finger in it. If it sinks into the fat, it's good. Yet don't eat it right away. Wrap it in more butcher paper and stick in a cooler for two hours. Cut it into slices after you trim away the fat.

It's barbecue season. It's a good time to barbecue a brisket and enjoy it.  This robust cut is well worth the elaborate cooking method.