Friday, July 8, 2016

An Indonesian Feast

Ramadan is a time of fasting yet after sundown it's a time of feasting. Muslims throughout Indonesia celebrate it with a variety of traditional foods. The holiday nights end with a mix of spicy and sweet, all filling after a day of prayers and austerity.

Tejal Rao wrote about this in Wednesday's New York Times Food section, traveling to Boston to interview chef Retno Pratiwi owner of the pop up restaurant Kaki Lima. She recreated the holiday fare her mother used to make for Eid al-Fitr , also known as Idul Fitri in Indonesia. She and her husband, Peter Geller who used to write for the Times, are passionate about the food of her native Jakarta. They obsess over the authenticity and minute details of their food at the restaurant , named for the food stalls. They traveled back to archipelago of islands located between southeastern Asia and Australia, visiting home chefs, and garnering more recipes from them. They went to the various islands to gather up a variety of different dishes. Recreating them here was difficult, namely in trying to get the exact ingredients. Fresh lemongrass and galangal,a type of ginger are hard to come by as are salam leaves,a variation of bay leaves.Sometimes the couple has to travel down to New York City to get another vital ingredient candle nut , a macadamia type nut. Sometimes they just order from Amazon.

Home chefs can create Chef's Pratiwi's dishes. The article includes opor ayam or Indonesian chicken curry. Some of the ingredients like the galanga root and kafir lime leaves can be hard to find.Again go to Amazon or your local Asian market and see if they have the ingredients there.The rest is attainable such as the chicken and coconut milk along with the coriander and ginger.  The chicken is cooked in the sauce for forty minutes before serving.It' is a labor intensive dish but worth it. The other recipe offered is shrimp and potatoes in sambal. This is a spicy sweet dish that gets its' heat from chile peppers along with Thai bird's eye chilis.. The recipe is a mix of different flavors and textures from the brininess of the seafood to the mildness of the tomatoes and lemon grass. The potatoes are roasted before hand for a nice crunchy texture,. The sambal or sauce is pureed and then sweetened with coconut sugar.The shrimp and potatoes are added to the sauce and cooked for ten minutes.It's served with rice.Again it's worth a trip to the local Asian grocery to stock up on the rarer ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal.

Ramadan is a holiday of fasting and prayer. Yet it is also is nights full of feasting. The Indonesians know how to celebrate with delicious foods, full of flavor and spice.

Thursday, July 7, 2016

Food For All Urban Farms

There are too many people starving in cities. Either that or they're not eating right, going for cheap junk or fast foods. There is a solution  - farming. It's something that many cites need to do. The end result is a healthy population that can give back to the city.

Urban farms are a new phenomenon but the idea of feeding ones' own has been around for centuries. Many castles had garden in their keep or right outside the castles walls. .The fruits and vegetables grown supplied nourishment for everyone within it. Urban farming is somewhat similar, The produce grown goes to the community whether for schools, food pantries or soup kitchens. It's a great way of getting healthy foods out to a population that may not always eat right due to financial problems.Newark, New Jersey was one of the first cities to have this Theirs is actually in two forms. The first is plot of land measuring two and a half acres. It is not just a farm but a learning center for local schoolchildren. Here they can see how tomatoes and lettuce are grown  as well as harvesting them.Another plus is that for ten dollars a month any Newark resident can have a plot to grow whatever they want.For parents this is a boon. It gives them and their children a relief from gritty city life and into fresh air .It also shows them to have responsibility with tending plants and making sure they thrive.Urban farming may also guide them into fields of biology and other sciences as well.

The other type of urban farm is repurposing an old factory and turning it into a multi story farm. This also has been stated in Newark and  happening in some of the larger cities like Chicago. One of the more famous one's there is Sweetwater .Thanks to Emmanuel Pratt, founder of the Sweetwater Project, Chicagoans not only get fresh veggies and herbs, their children also receive lessons in how to fertilize and plant. Kindergarteners up to grad students learn about the plants along with the fish that provide the fertilizers. There are tanks of tilipia which provide nitrogen waste for the crops.Professor Pratt has created more of these urban farms in Milwaukee and Detroit too.The Japanese have also jumped on this concept, creating the world's largest interior farm in eastern Japan in an area badly hit by the tsunami. It has created no only a huge bounty of crops but very little waste, thanks to installing LED lights. The lettuce will keep under them and not wilt. Another plus of urban farming is that the crops are not subjected to drought or heavy rainfalls.More and more cities need to think about this sustainable method of feeding their citizens. Instead of caving into Big Business, they need to reclaim the land .

Big cities need to rethink selling out old factories and green lands to businesses. Urban farming is a cheaper  way of getting fresh fruit and veggies out to a population who need it. It's benefits everyone, especially the next generation.

Wednesday, July 6, 2016

Welcoming With Food

Many people, including a vast majority in this country tend to view  refugees with a jaundiced eye.Yet, they can contribute so much to a country, including an ancient cuisine that's full of flavor and variety. French chefs know this and they are letting these new arrivals their day - in the kitchen.

Alissa J. Rubin wrote about this phenomena exchange in today's New York Times Food section. The movement is called Les Cuistots Migrateurs or the Migratory Cooks and was created by two innovative and intrepid French entrepreneurs Louis Jacquot and Sebastian Prunier..They tracked down trained chefs who were among the millions seeking asylum in France and employed them , hopefully changing the way the French look at them.Refugees are usually seen as a drain on society pulling it down. By allowing them to be chefs again they contribute not just to society but add some spice literally to the usually staid Gallic cuisine. Les Cuistots Migrateurs  cook at the restaurant, Le Petit Bain,  owned by Monsieurs Jacquot and Prunier. Diners are greeted by the  sounds of world music.It seemed appropriate to hire the Syrians chefs to add their dishes and flavors to the menu.The co-owners were well traveled business men who had a shared interest in bringing the food they had tasted on their travels.Mr. Jacquot lived on the street foods of Southern Asia , Brazil and Latin America. while Mr. Prunier lived abroad in Hong Kong , Singapore and Shanghai, eating in private homes, experiencing family dishes.

This culinary wanderlust paid off. It brought about a restaurant that was accepting of this latest addition to French dining. Another catalyst was an event that the  two men attended a party at a non profit organization last fall.Migrants also attended and brought foods from their counties. This sparked an idea. They could sift through the refugees for those who were trained chefs. Mssrs Jacquot and Prunier had three goals. One of the most important was exposing native French people to the cuisines and cultures of these immigrants.They wanted to create jobs for them and the last, they wanted to change the way these newcomers were being seen. The chefs would be on hand to explain the dishes to diners.The chefs are from all over. There are three from Syria, one from Chechnya along with chefs from India, Ethiopia and Sri Lanka, Two chefs from Afghanistan and Tibet are scheduled to join as well. Classics such as kebbe, a kind of meatball made from ground beef or lamb with bulger or cracked wheat.Samosas are also on the menu as is quail with freekah or green Durham wheat along with mackerel cooked with peppers and tahini.

Any immigrant groups adds to a  country, especially to its' cuisine. It is a stroke of genius to let them cook and integrate their flavors into an established cuisine. We need to do the same here in the States

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Feasting On Your Feast Day

Onamasticas or name days are kind of like having a second birthday. There are favorite foods and gifts to be had , along with praying or acknowledging the saint you were named after.It's a reflective day but also one filled with treats.

One of the most famous name days is St Patrick's on March 17th, Of course , everyone celebrates that day with beer and corned beef. Yet it should be a special day as well for those named Patrick or Patricia.The second most famous name day is St. Valentine's, February 14th. It's a day for romance and sweethearts but should also be observed for the Valentines and Valentinas out there too.Name days are big throughout  Europe  along with being observed in Latin American countries and Hispanic households here in the States.The Germans equate a name day  with a birthday so there's cake and gifts. Bulgarian children bring chocolates and other treats to school to share their day with classmates. Hungary has similar traditions except men receive wine on their saints days while kids get special treats to dole out to  friends.If you;re in Italy expect a cake to honor your day while in Slovakia enjoy a  big do that can rival a birthday.Spain and Hispanic America used go all out too for onamasticas however now they're more quieter. Not so for the Russians/ They are another nationality that go crazy on name days. There are big parties with lots of food and drink, rivaling birthday parties.

 Name days are not really celebrated here in the States , save for some families who carry on their ancestors' traditions. Today is St. Elizabeth's Day so both my Mom and I celebrate .We just had a nice lunch at The Olive Garden and enjoyed their latest dessert - chocolate lasagna cake. (you read right,It's a chocolate sponge cake layered with cheesecake and a rich fudge layer) Saint's days don't have to be elaborate affairs. The summer onimastica parties can be a small barbecue featuring the honoree's favorite foods. Try filet mignon or a T-bone for a lux treat. For a little more fun cook up some kabobs with chicken  and a variety of veggies. End with a small cake. Again, this doesn't have to be an elaborate iced creation, Think strawberry short cake or a peach or berry cobbler with fresh whipped cream or creme fraiche. The meal could  also end with a chocolate fondue too,dipping the fruits of the season along with marshmallows in melted chocolate. For fall and winter onamasticas. try a chili pie or maybe individual Cornish hens with stuffing.End the meal with a home made apple or pear galette topped with vanilla ice cream. Give the honoree a small ballotin of fine chocolates for a nice gift or a gift certificate at the local coffee shop.

Name days are meant to honor not just the saint but the person named after him or her. Celebrate with a favorite food or dinner out .It's a day of  honoring but also of feasting as well.

Monday, July 4, 2016

A Very Foodie Fourth

Happy Fourth of July to all my American readers both here and abroad. We're in interesting times right now with a heightened xenophobia that harks back to a more close minded era. We cannot be that way. We have to be more like our diets and be more welcoming to new ideas and flavors.

Remember that it was a wide variety of immigrants that gave us the foods we're munching on those special day that celebrates not only only our freedom but our grit as a people.After all those okras and yams, so long ingrained in the American diet. were brought here by  the enslaved from Africa , along with  several of our most treasured cooking techniques. Germans gave us hamburgers, hot dogs and potato salads. The French and Belgians provided us with the recipe for French fries. Ice cream? Thank first the urbane Thomas Jefferson who brought it from the French who probably got it from an ancient Roman recipe. That ice and pizza? Definitely from the Italians who came here a century ago. The fish tacos and burritos at the pool snack bar? Mexicans immigrants carried those recipes with them. What about those wontons or egg rolls? Variations of them came over thanks to  two centuries of Chinese newcomers . Our diets as well as our lives would be as bland  as ever without the contributions of foreigners.

We have always been a country of immigrants, ever since that first step upon Plymouth Rock. Foreigners have given us our language, our government  and most importantly an ever changing diet. We should thank each new wave as they come in for their culinary contributions instead of vilifying and isolating them.

Saturday, July 2, 2016

The Great British Bake Off Returns

The scheduling people at PBS may or may not have a wicked or warped sense of humor.It seems almost too coincidental that another season of "The Great British Bake Off  - Season Six" is airing July 4th weekend along with the chaotic stew of Brexit. Either way, it shows the UK at its' idyllic and coziest best.It's all sweetness and Victoria sponge.

This latest season which aired last August 15  is now going to be shown here in the US. Episode One already has been shown, as other PBS stations around the country have given it the Friday 9 PM
slot. Here in the New York metro area, we have  to watch it on Sunday afternoons at four (that is if any of us are around, There are die hard fans who will,but luckily we can catch up on the PBS website later on). The hosts and judges are back, There are the spicy and sweet Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins who offer saucy asides  and comfort to nervous contestants. Check out what they say during the Madeira cake challenge because the cake is known for its' defining crack. (see where this is going). Of course there are the judges, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry. Hollywood is a burly , yet more suave version of Alec Baldwin who lends some asperity and much needed stringency to a contest that can sometimes get a bit too sugary with emotions.Ms. Berry,  a kind of British Betty Crocker, is the sweet yet demanding grandmother who does think your tea scones are scrummy even though they're lacking in appearance. Both are excellent in giving hints and tips.

The one thing about the show is that the contestants represent a wide swath of British society. Some have Southeastern Asian backgrounds, one is Bangladeshi. Most are true blue Britons, coming from
such diverse areas of the island such as Yorkshire, London and Manchester. There is one from Swansea, Wales and another from Dunkeld, Perth and Kinross in Scotland. . The xenophobes who more or less caused the Brexit with the EU could learn valuable lessons from this show and it's not the ones regarding the best icing or the tenderest crumb. Foodies and sweet tooths will love the different contests .As always all sorts of baked goods will be executed and the episodes are divided into three sections : the signature, the technical and the showstopper. The technical is always a recipe from Mr. Hollywood's or Ms Berry's recipe books and a step or two is always omitted to flummox the bakers.I love the showstoppers, This is where contestants get creative and whip up creations that are just breath taking. Everything will be covered this season, from vol au vents to breads to biscuits.

Brexit showed the UK at its' worst. The Great British Bake Off remedies that poisonous hatred and presents us with a contest where people of all colors and religions come together. Yes, it's a contest but its' a fun friendly one.

Friday, July 1, 2016

Red , White And Berry

Berries are everywhere right now, from straw to blue. Most foodies eat them plain or with a good dollop of whipped cream yet they're versatile in everything, from salads to all sorts of desserts.Try them in barbecue sauce or in a fresh summer salad.

Of course berries are used in baking. Strawberries, raspberries and blueberries are popular this weekend  because of their patriotic colors. Melissa Clark wrote about them in her A Good Appetite column in Wednesday's New York Times Food section, She arranged them in festive red and blue stripes in a buckwheat (!) cake made with buttermilk  The fruit adds a nice tartness because it's been baked and absorbed by the crumb. Another fun Fourth idea is making either a chocolate or vanilla sheet cake , icing it with whipped cream and decorate with berries to create the Stars And Stripes.It's a fun end to a barbecue. The idea can be carried over to cupcakes. Cupcakes can also be filled with a mix of chopped fruit and cream or pudding for a neat surprise.One of the easiest desserts to make with any berry is the crisp.It's cooking the fruit with a crunchy topping of brown sugar, butter and cinnamon.Usually made with apples the recipe can be expanded to include blackberries, blueberries and strawberries. Cobblers are another great summer dessert that highlight any berry's juiciness. They're a bit more involved than a crisp , resembling a cake but they are still easy enough to bake on a hot summer's day. For a cooler treat think berry infused sorbets or old fashioned ice cream with whole cream and fresh produce.

Not surprisingly berries can be used in savory dishes as well.Salads always benefit from them, whether as a tangy dressing or a zesty addition, One tasty mix is taking half a pound of strawberries and mixing them with honey, apple cider vinegar and olive oil. Use it for dressing a grilled chicken and spring green salad. Blackberries and even blueberries would not only add some sweetness but also color to a steak salad. Toss a few in with some chopped  bell peppers and grape tomatoes for a spin on a classic salad. Any berry can be used in barbecue sauce.Imagine a raspberry barbecue sauce slathered on ribs. The sauce is easy to make. Take a cup of raspberries and blend with a variety of sweeteners such as brown sugar, molasses and light corn syrup. Garlic , red pepper and onion flakes zing it up.The base is balsamic vinegar and olive oil.It's pureed and strained through a sieve to get rid of the seeds. Ever think of blueberry ketchup? Yes, it can be made, In fact one of the original recipes was made solely from them.It's a mix of the fruit along with shallots, brown sugar, vinegar, garlic and ginger. The flavor is bright and fruity, sort of jammy  yet perfect for those grilled burgers or for giving those cookout some zing.

Get red white and berry this July Fourth and for the rest of the summer. Use blueberries in a ketchup. Strawberries in a crisp. Blackberries in a salad. It's the season for them so enjoy them.