The Backbone OF British Cooking

Mention the titans of British cooking and most people will come up with Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsey. Yet there are two other, lesser known forces , Margot and Fergus Henderson. They brought back good British food to an island and a nation torn by outer influences and culinary boredom.

Julia Moskin wrote about this fascinating couple in today's New York Times Food section. The Hendersons are not really known  being not as famous as their fellow Brit chefs yet they are important. They brought English cooking back to England. This is the food that Jane Austen and the Romantic Poets like Coleridge and Wordsworth relished. It is not the food such as toad in thole and mushy peas that people mock. It is simple and elegant, renditions of a pre-Industrial Revolution country.It is taking cuts from whole pigs and dishes rich with cabbage.Their restaurant , St John is evident of that. The menu reflects the best of English cooking and baking. The famed eatery offers saddle of hare along with braised tripe and Welsh rarebit. Desserts are simple , reflecting the heart of the Anglo-Saxon kitchen, with such sweets as treacle tart and Eccles cake , the current filled pastries.There are also other classics such as turnips and beets along with all sorts of brassica, from cabbage salads to butter braised Brussels sprouts.One of their protegees, John Lowe of Lyle's uses  such classic British ingredients as Alexanders a local sort of parsley and bereneal, an ancient grain from Scotland. There is also Sticjhelton a kind of Stilton blue cheese made with unpasteurized milk.

Yet there are problems thanks to Brexit and Mr. Henderson's Parkinson's disease. There are going to be new laws regarding what can be brought back into the country. Kitty Travers, their artisinal ice cream maker and fiercely loyal friend will be affected by this. She travels to Italy to pick Amalfi lemons and France for ripe apricots for her small batch ice creams. Now there are thornier issues about what stays in the United Kingdom and what can be brought in. The Hendersons may use more British raised plants and meats along with indigenous plants that were used in cooking centuries ago. Yet this won't stop them from trying other cuisines. The current chef at St John Bread and Wine is Farokh Talati, the son of Parsi immigrants from India and hosts a pop up Parsi supper club once a month.Mr. Henderson also had to step back from all his restaurants. He can't work fast enough anymore to deal with the demands of a busy restaurant. It is Margot who took over although his presence is clearly felt. They still have good fistful of restaurants which also includes the popular Black Axe Mangal a take on the British love of kebob shops (mangal is named for the late night kebob shops that dot London).

Margot and Fergus Henderson are the quiet backbone of modern British cooking. They update classic ingredients and make classic recipes exciting again. They are the faces of English cooking today.

Are You a Forager Shopper

Do you dedicate one day of the week to go food shopping. Is it more of a treasure hunt for bargains as you drive  from one grocery to another? Then you may be a forager shopper. Is this a good thing? Or bad? There are pros and cons to it.

Many people do spend a whole day foraging for different bargains. Another reason for their madness is that certain stores may have something the others don't I'm familiar with this. I know that Acme has an oatmeal and flax hot cereal that Stop and Shop doesn't have. If I need ingredients for baking I will most definitely head to Stop & Shop which probably has the best stocked baking aisle.Vegan cream cheese? Then i go to Shop-Rite. Yet I won't go to all three stores in one day. To me that's kind of a waste of gas and time. I have a full day everyday. To take away precious minutes from cooking or work is silly. Yet many do this , preferring to have a completely stocked kitchen at all times. An idea like this may work in a big city like Paris or London where there are a variety of stalls that stretch blocks and food shoppers have to traipse from one end to another. New York and other big American cities have long avenues where there are still butchers and green grocers. There's a lot of  traveling  simply because there aren't any fully stocked grocery stores in these areas, only specialized shops.

What about the bargain side of foraging shopping? Do you really want to go gadding about for the best price for tomatoes or pork chops? This can be tiring, especially on the busiest shopping days - Saturday and Sunday.  Then there's the fear of having the store sell out of what you want. The best bet is down loading the stores' apps. These alert you when there are sales and buy one get one free. It's a great way of planning your shopping experience. Also club cards help in discounts too. Many stores such as Stop & Shop, Foodtown and Shop Rite have them in both card and key chain charm form. These give you instant discounts which are always welcome. Another way of catching all the good bargains is scanning the circulars in your local papers. Write up a list of what you need at one particular store and get everything there. If they don't have one item, wait til you go to another store to get it (unless it's immediately needed for that day's eating).

Is foraging shopping a good thing? That depends on the shopper. it can be too much , especially on the weekends. The best bet is sticking to one store at one time. It makes it easier to shop and makes life easier too.

A Foodie Holiday Away

Sometimes the holidays call for a vacation. There's something freeing about spending a day at a hotel buffet and then hitting the slopes or the shops. You don't have to cook and then serve. You just pick what you want and then get served. Now that's the perfect Thanksgiving or Christmas.

 It pays to stay in the States considering Thanksgiving isn't an international holiday. There are enough places to travel to to enjoy not just the holiday but the sites too. Of course the gem of any American city for Thanksgiving is New York City. It's where you can see the Macy's Day Parade and then go wild at a sumptuous holiday dinner. If you have the money head over to Dirty French in So Ho. It' is a pricey $98  for a three course prix-fixe meal. You'll enjoy traditional fare but with a side of pate and a savory millefeulle. For an Italian twist on the holiday  head to the classy Gran Tivoli on Broom Street  in Greenwich Village where there's roast turkey and pork belly served. The next day is Black Friday.  Go crazy shopping at Macy's and the new seven story Nordstroms. Both are chock full of restaurants and cafes to sustain you during a busy shopping day. Want quiet and quaint? Then head up to New England, like Snowvillage Inn in Eaton, New Hampshire. near the White Mountain National Forest. You can ski, sit by the fire and enjoy good , old fashioned meal of turkey and stuffing. For a really old,  - four hundred years old, in fact, go to the Plimoth Plantation in Plymouth  to try a dish of turkey sauced and a sallet  along with a sweet pudding of Native corn and  a pottage of cabbage, leeks and soup.

Christmas can be spent anywhere. Europe is the obvious choice. It's where most of our traditions come from. Many of the bigger cities have Christmas markets where you can buy all sorts of gifts and sample delicious foods. Head to Germany , the birthplace of the holiday. Munich has the Christmas mart where you can taste Kletznbrot, a bread loaded with nuts fruit and honey and Fatschnkindl - a pastry shaped like the Baby Jesus in His manger. Of course there's beer and roast pork too - the perfect holiday meal. Paris is another city , famed for its' holiday shopping and outdoor markets. Browse stalls while you sip a cup of French onion soup or nibble on sausages. Rome has the Piazza Navona Christmas mart where you can sip mulled wine and munch on an Italian holiday classic  - roasted chestnuts. Spend Christmas Eve in Vatican City where you can also dine at many restaurants and cafes that feature everything from classic pasta to a variety of pizzas. Of course there is London, where there are dozens of Christmas marts. Some have apres ski themes with hot toddies where you can also munch on candied pecans and a cone of candy floss - cotton candy. This is the city that gave us A Christmas Carol and that giant turkey for roasting. Most of the hotels in the city are offering traditional British fare such as a turkey with the trimmings followed by the lit Christmas pudding.

Treat yourself to a holiday away from your kitchen. There is literally a buffet of cities and towns to visit for good food and fun. Enjoy the time away. Treat yourself to this travel present.

Vegan Vacations

It's that time of year when vacations beckon.Yet for vegans it can be rough, especially when they visit a city or resort that is more carnivore friendly. Herbivores need not worry.There are ways to get through a holiday away.

If you're adventurous, then consider vegan travel sites. One of the most meatless cities is Toronto, Canada. One neighborhood ,Parkland, is even nicknamed called Vegandale because of the large amount of vegan restaurants there.If you go , then also try the first vegan "butcher"  Yamchops that offer coconut chip bacon and beet burgers. However this fascinating New York of the North has other attractions such as a Hockey Hall of Fame and Yonge-Dundas Square which features outdoor concerts and community activities. If it's warm then visit some of the city's many beaches. A lesser known place is Campbellville, home of happily Ever Esther Farm Sanctuary. This farm, located not that far from Toronto is a sanctuary to all animals, from pigs to chicken who were slated for the slaughterhouse.It started with a little pig Esther, her two dads, realtor Steve Jenkins and Derek Walters , a magician(!) and how she grew into a 600 pound beauty. Space was needed for her so the sanctuary was created.Abused and abandoned farm animals were added in the ensuing years. As for a place to stay there is the Mohawk Inn and Convention Center, however the hotel restaurant is a chop house. Go to the nearby smaller restaurants and cafes for vegan options.

Another vegan city is  - what else - New York City. Manhattan boasts 600 (!!!) good vegetarian restaurants such as Blossom On 9th, This trendy eatery serves the Impossible Burger topped with everything from soy bacon to vegan mozzarella. They also serve a Sunday brunch complete with mimosas and bellinis. As for a quick bite go to Molly's Cupcakes which has build your own toppings cakes and cream filled ones. Manhattan is home to famed vegan Stella McCartney's store. She offers leather free shoes and bags along with ethically made clothing.They carry everything from footwear for men and women, bags and clothing. Europe also boasts vegan cities for those wanting to go overseas. London and Berlin are known for their animal consciousness.London has the humorously named Temple of Seitan which hosts a huge variety of different burgers and faux chicken. There is also Ms. Cupcake, a 100 per cent vegan restaurant. Check out the history of British veganism which started in the 1830's at Alcott House, Ham , Surrey. Berlin, home to centuries of history and amazing cathedrals has its' own chain of vegan supermarkets Veganz!Then there is Sao Paulo Brazil which boasts 280 vegan eateries plus open markets. It is also an art center so catch up on Brazilian art at Museo de Arte de Sao Paolo.

A fun vegan vacation can be had. There are cities and farm that cater to the meatless lifestyle. Visit them and enjoy a wonderful holiday.

Calm Yourself With Risotto

Kitchen work is soothing work to some. There's something zen about stirring polenta or grating chocolate. The same is true with risotto. The constant stirring, usually in a figure eight  is both calming and comforting.It's one of the most relaxing tasks for a home chef.

Melissa Clark wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Her A Good Appetite column was devoted to it and the woman who inspired the piece.  Ruth Rogers, chef and owner of the River Cafe in London loves to stir her rice.The motions and rhythms soothe anxiety - and Ms Clark was anxious about creating Chef Rogers' recipe for nettles risotto. The recipe is part of a brand new cookbook River Cafe London which salutes the restaurant's thirtieth anniversary. It also celebrates the eatery's classic recipes updated for a new generation of home chefs.The nettles risotto is one of the trickiest to make. nettles are those sharp stingers that hurt when touched with bare hands. Dealing with them in a home kitchen means the rubber gloves have to come out. Luckily spinach can be subbed in  They have a rich mineral taste  like the other and taste wise they can easily be interchanged. No one will know the difference.

Ms. Clark's accompanying recipe reflects this change. There are eight packed cups of spinach involved. These are stemless because it could make the risotto stringy.Another reason why she wanted to make the rice dish is the taleggio. This is a creamy, sharp cheese from the Alpine region of Lombardy that's added last to the dish. Like most arborio dishes this one is also labor intensive. The spinach has to be placed in a colander and has to have boiling hot water poured over it to wilt the leaves.Then the water has to be squeezed out with a dishtowel before the leaves are being transferred to a food processor.There is also celery , onion and garlic that need to be cooked too.The rice is added to this as is three quarters of a cup of dry white wine and either vegetable or chicken stock.It will take fifteen to twenty minutes for it to be ready. The spinach puree and taleggio chunks are them added and stirred into it.If you want it a bit simpler then cut out the cheese and serve it with a sprinkling of Parmesan.Just remember to keep stirring or the rice will stick.

If you're looking for good food and relaxation then go for spinach risotto with taleggio. It's a soothing dish to make if you;re stressed. Even if you'e not , it's still a great dish to make on a cool Spring night.

The Most Perfect Chef

A good chef is hard to find these days. They're usually embroiled in some kind of sex scandal or reported for abuse. Something with their food may be off or that they're just divas. Not so with Angie Mar, current owner chef of the famed Beatrice Inn in New York's Greenwich  Village. She brings a devoted way of cooking and managing  to the eatery which is rare these days.

Another famed chef and  New York Times  Food contributor,, Tejal Rao wrote about her in today's  issue. Chef Mar took over the  restaurant from Vanity Fair editor, Graydon Carter in 2016, transforming it from a celebrity hot spot for drinks to an eatery that has foodies and food critics buzzing.It's becoming the destination to go and eat in Manhattan.The food is  lush, harking back to an era of Diamond Jim Brady and Edith Wharton. There are thick , marbled  cuts of meat with rich , sticky sauces that harken  back to Escoffier's time.Diners eat off of vintage and antique plates that Chef Mar picked up on her trips to London. The silver and crystal are also from there, so guests can feel like they're dining at a posh Edwardian restaurant.Servers are graceful yet serve with gusto.The one recipe given with the interview is venison and trotter pie., redolent with garlic, thyme and , of course, red, gamy venison and pig's feet, A marrow bone sticks triumphantly out of the pie's center, and this too is meant to be eaten or gnawed upon.

Restaurants are in Chef Mar's blood. Her aunt , Ruby Chow opened up the famed Seattle restaurant that bore her name in 1948 ,It took her a while to discover her culinary calling, working in real estate in Los Angeles. A decade later she and her cousin, Melissa Merrill Keary went in together buying  The Beatrice Inn. Several other family members also work there as well. She is not like other chefs who only think of themselves or worse harass and belittle staff. She gathers up her crew after the restaurant closes and they discuss what they did right and what they did wrong..More like a mom than a boss, Chef Mar gives them immediate feedback.They also share notes on their favorite chefs Also they discuss what new dishes should be called.It goes through a series of weekly workshops that she runs with her sous-chef Nicole Averkiou and head chef Ed Szymanski. They throw around potential names as she writes them down on paper with a Sharpie.

Chefs have been getting a bad rap these days, thanks to their egos and arrogance. Not so with Chef Mar. She is genuine, a throwback to a more simpler but elegant time, much like her and the Beatrice Inn.

The Versatile English Muffin

One of the best staples of any kitchen is the humble English muffin. It can be used for any meal and even makes a great night snack. If you think it's just a boring little crumpet, think again. It is versatile , going from a classic breakfast treat to a fun alternative  to hamburger buns.

It was Thomas Bath Thomas who brought this Victorian breakfast staple to the States from England in 1877. They were based on the English muffins that were sold in London at the time. They were slightly different in that they were thinner than the crumpets they were modeled on. Another change that Mr. Thomas made was  precutting them so they could easily be split apart with a fork. At first they were only sold to hotels and grocery stores. By 1880 they were so popular that Thomas had to open up a second bakery,One of the best aspects of them is that they're low in calories -only 130 per muffin and make a nice snack, especially with butter. Even though the original is the best, Thomas has other flavors and grains such as the seasonal pumpkin spice and whole wheat. Many love their blueberry and corn flavors too along with the honey wheat  and sourdough. The original, whole wheat and multi grain kinds are the most versatile. They are perfect for both savory and sweet recipes.Another great thing about them is that they're freezable and can be used weeks after they were first bought. Just take them out of the fridge and they can be thawed in the toaster or toaster oven.

English muffins are one of the best things to happen to breakfast. Thi early morning staple is a great starter with just a layer of butter or margarine and your favorite jelly.They're also a nice accompaniment to eggs sunnyside up or soft boiled ones, perfect for sopping up the yolk. English muffins are a great base for any breakfast sandwich. Try a classic of scrambled eggs and bacon or sausage. For zing add a drop of hot sauce to the eggs. A fried egg sandwich is another  light yet filling breakfast.One of the best recipes is Eggs Benedict. The muffin's  spongy texture is excellent for sopping up the buttery Hollandaise and runny yolk. The recipe can be varied with spinach being subbed in for the Canadian bacon for Egg;s Florentine or using a crab cakes for a lush , extravagant brunch.salmon can also be used for Eggs Atlantic or Eggs Benjamin. English muffins also make for great mini pizzas. It's just spooning  olive oil and  pizza sauce over the slices and then topping them with shredded mozzarella. Add fun extras such as sausage or peppers, onions or olives. The muffins also can be used instead of hamburger buns. They're even better because the nooks and crannies hold the burgers' juices , making them even tastier. English muffins can even be used for grilled cheese too for a different spin on the classic lunch bite.Add tomatoes and bacon for a take on the diner classic The Happy Waitress.

English muffins are a must have for any kitchen. They're a great way to greet the day or end it. They are perfect for both pizza and burgers. Best of all , have them hot from the toaster with just butter. Or create your own recipe. They are versatile and fun.

The Great British Bake Off Returns

The scheduling people at PBS may or may not have a wicked or warped sense of humor.It seems almost too coincidental that another season of "The Great British Bake Off  - Season Six" is airing July 4th weekend along with the chaotic stew of Brexit. Either way, it shows the UK at its' idyllic and coziest best.It's all sweetness and Victoria sponge.

This latest season which aired last August 15  is now going to be shown here in the US. Episode One already has been shown, as other PBS stations around the country have given it the Friday 9 PM
slot. Here in the New York metro area, we have  to watch it on Sunday afternoons at four (that is if any of us are around, There are die hard fans who will,but luckily we can catch up on the PBS website later on). The hosts and judges are back, There are the spicy and sweet Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins who offer saucy asides  and comfort to nervous contestants. Check out what they say during the Madeira cake challenge because the cake is known for its' defining crack. (see where this is going). Of course there are the judges, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry. Hollywood is a burly , yet more suave version of Alec Baldwin who lends some asperity and much needed stringency to a contest that can sometimes get a bit too sugary with emotions.Ms. Berry,  a kind of British Betty Crocker, is the sweet yet demanding grandmother who does think your tea scones are scrummy even though they're lacking in appearance. Both are excellent in giving hints and tips.

The one thing about the show is that the contestants represent a wide swath of British society. Some have Southeastern Asian backgrounds, one is Bangladeshi. Most are true blue Britons, coming from
such diverse areas of the island such as Yorkshire, London and Manchester. There is one from Swansea, Wales and another from Dunkeld, Perth and Kinross in Scotland. . The xenophobes who more or less caused the Brexit with the EU could learn valuable lessons from this show and it's not the ones regarding the best icing or the tenderest crumb. Foodies and sweet tooths will love the different contests .As always all sorts of baked goods will be executed and the episodes are divided into three sections : the signature, the technical and the showstopper. The technical is always a recipe from Mr. Hollywood's or Ms Berry's recipe books and a step or two is always omitted to flummox the bakers.I love the showstoppers, This is where contestants get creative and whip up creations that are just breath taking. Everything will be covered this season, from vol au vents to breads to biscuits.

Brexit showed the UK at its' worst. The Great British Bake Off remedies that poisonous hatred and presents us with a contest where people of all colors and religions come together. Yes, it's a contest but its' a fun friendly one.

Celebrate The 2012 London Games

The whole world has their eyes on London for the next few weeks. This is where history is going to happen along with international comraderie and bonhomie. It's also the place for letting English cuisine and the new wave of British cooking shine. Tradition along with the new will compete for the best dishes.

English food has long had a bead reputation. Yet some of the best beef has come out of the United Kingdom as it has since the 1800's. A traditional and easy dish celebrating this is Yorkshire pudding which is a kind of buttery popover served with the most British of meals the Sunday roast. Gravy is poured over this delicious bread along with thick slabs of roast beef. The English also love their poultry as well and Christmas tables have b een groaning with large turkeys and geese since the Hanoverian rule of the 1700's. Of course there is the working class favorite, fish and chips. This is a yummy deep fried fish , usually plaice in a beer batter accompanied by crispy fries or chips as the Limeys call them.

Tradition has grown into top haute cuisine. During the last two decades the UK has provided the world with some of the best chefs.There is Jamie Oliver who has also crusaded for healthy eating in both British and American cuisines. He has redefined cooking, going for a simple route to making elaborate dishes.. Nigella Lawson , another great cook also has updated classics such as sticky pudding along with that wonderful cheesy dish Welsh rarebit. Of course there is Gordon Ramsay the kitchen bad boy but who has also has some interesting seafood and poultry recipes along with a spicy take on the American dessert classic Bananas Forster.

Celebrate the London Games with British food. There are some good dishes from beef to pudding from fish and chips to Yorkshire pudding and gravy.