What To Make What To Bake

 Christmas is less than two weeks away and many home chefs and bakers have no clue as to whip up. Do you go with a roast or with a ham? Bake the traditional cookies or try your hand at a lush dessert? There are so  many options. Yet what is the right one?

This is my problem on two accounts. What I will make as the main course will be vegan . That's a given. Yet what will it be? My go to is the comforting and tasty Gardein's turkey cutlets. They're easy to make in the air fryer and the accompanying gravy packets can easily be cooked in the microwave. This last is easy to make. Just thaw out add some water and a bit of I can't Believe it's Not Butter and a pinch of onion powder. The sides are an easy stuffing mix usually from Acme. Then there's either Brussels sprouts or green beans. I could change it up, I've seen two recipes that could change my mind.I recently saw the great British chef Mary Berry make a venison Wellington on her Great Country House series. She turned venison into something special at Scone Castle. I looked up a vegan version and found I could make one with Beyond beef, spinach, and chopped mushrooms wrapped in already made puff pastry. Then there's a tofu ham loaf that I know I can make tasty with a root beer glaze. I prepped the Thanksgiving Tofurky as it was the real thing. I can do the same with a faux ham with a delicious tried and true recipe.

Then there's the question of dessert. Who doesn't love a home baked cookie at Christmas however they are work. Even the Pillsbury Slice and Bakes can be laborious. Yet there are some recipes I would love to try, like peanut blossoms or almond spritz cookies.  I did buy a gingerbread house kit at Five Below. This can be dismantled and eaten, hence taking care of the cookie and candy side of the holiday. Yet what to make for Christmas Day dessert? I thought maybe a spice cake with a chocolate ganache icing , a riff on Hackensack New Jersey's  great B & W's Bakery's spice cupcakes with chocolate frosting. Then I saw a PBS special on London's historic hotel  The Savoy and one of its illustrious chefs ,Auguste Escoffier. He was famed for creating amazing desserts , named for the prominent women of the late Victorian Era. One was for the Australian opera singer , Nellie Melba which was a marriage of  raspberry coulis over peaches and vanilla ice cream. That looked wonderful so I Googled the recipe. It's surprisingly easy to make. It would be a breeze to make after a labor intensive  fake meat dinner.. I can easily buy canned peaches and there are fresh raspberries in all the stores. 

I still don't what to make. I am leaning towards the tried and true Gardein turkey and peach Melba.  Or it may be something else? Or something new? There's still a lot of time to decide.

Ken Magos Hosting With History

One of my favorite PBS shows is "Drive by History" in which host and historian Ken Magos finds out about the history behind those blue plaque signs that dot the  New Jersey landscape.Now he has come up with a spin off  "Drive by History Eats"in which he,  with the help of Dr. Libby O'Connell and chefs Melissa Fairchild Clark and Anthony Murgola, create dishes eaten by some of New Jersey's most prominent historical figures along  with recipes culled from historical events and ethnic and indigenous group. He has graciously given Foodie Pantry an interesting and insightful interview.

• 1.    How did you come up with the idea for “Drive by History Eats’?

  This idea has been percolating for a while, actually.  It came from past Drive By History investigations where food – either dinner parties with incredibly influential figures, or various immigrant groups bringing new flavors to our region – played a key role in those narratives.

  2.    You cover several different eras in the show, from the indigenous Lenni Lenape  Three Sisters to the meatless dinners of World War One. How did the recipes reflect the times?

  To paraphrase our Food and Culture Historian Dr. Libby O’Connell, “Recipes provide a window into the past.”  By looking at historic recipes, we’re able to discern when new ingredients were introduced to our region (or became more widely available), and also when certain trends in cooking techniques and equipment or gadgets became popular.

   

  In addition, recipes often reflect social and industrial movements through the generations, such as breakthroughs in refrigeration and food preservation and shipment in the late 19^th century, and Meatless Mondays and Wheatless Tuesdays during World War I.

  3.    Have you noticed any similarities between what New Jerseyians ate then and what we eat now?

  Well, New Jersey is called the Garden State for good reason, and has always boasted a wealth of indigenous fresh produce, fruit, berries, fish and game that have kept our ancestors well-fed for literally centuries.  And we’re still enjoying the bounty today.

  4.    What would you say are the most noticeable culinary differences between then and now?

  From pre-colonial through the 20^th century, the most striking culinary trends are probably the addition of new ingredients and flavors brought over by immigrant groups – keeping in mind that even honey bees (not indigenous to North America) were introduced by 17^th century European settlers.

  5.    I see there’s an upcoming program featuring indigenous dishes starring the Three Sisters and grape dumplings. Will there be more episodes featuring indigenous recipes?

  That is certainly a possibility for future seasons.

  6.    Asking that, we can’t forget New Jersey has had a strong immigrant influence too. Will you be featuring dishes from Newark’s Ironbound section along with Union City’s Cuban neighborhood as well as culinary contributions from the first wave of immigrants to the state?

  We’re planning two separate episodes for Season 2 of DBH: Eats focused on Newark stories. 

   

  The first, based on an upcoming episode of Drive By History featuring legendary entrepreneur and community philanthropist Louise Scott, will examine the culinary influence of Newark’s African American community during the Second Great Migration following World War 2. 

   

  The second, tied to our past investigation at the Newark Museum’s Ballantine House and 19^th century Christmas traditions, will examine holiday culinary contributions from the city’s German, Dutch and English communities.

  7.    You can’t mention New Jersey without a reference to our famed boardwalks. Will you be delving into the history of our most beloved dish - the pork roll sandwich along with other classic boardwalk foods?

  I see you’re trying to draw us into the Taylor Ham vs. Pork Roll debate!  Well, let’s just say we’re neutral on that subject, but have definitely toyed with doing an episode on favorite boardwalk dishes.

  8.    Will “Drive by History Eats” be visiting the state’s oldest restaurants such as Mendham’s Black Horse Tavern?

  Restaurants aren’t our focus.

  9.    New Jersey has seen its’ fair share of battles. Will you be exploring what the Colonial and British armies ate and comparing them?

  That’s a great topic idea – thank you for sharing it!  We’ll definitely throw it into the mix for a future episode!

  10.  And the famous I have to ask question - what was your favorite dish from all the recipes that you’ve sampled and why did you like it so much?

  Honestly, all of the dishes were really tasty this season, but if I had to pick I’d say that I had 2 favorite dishes this season.

   

  First was the pork chop from the Whitman episode.  The pork chop itself was delicious, but the braising liquid with all of the vegetables made a fantastic soup for days after the shoot (I chose to take this one home with me, though dishes are always shared with the entire crew at wrap).

   

  Second were the grape dumplings.  So simple to make, but incredibly delicious, and surprisingly not heavy at all.  The crew all loved them, too.

   

  I hope the audience tries the recipes at home – They won’t be disappointed!  They’re all available on our show website, DriveByHistoryEats.tv.  

  
  

Celebrating With Kevin Belton

New Orleans has always been known for their amazing dishes, cooked by amazing chefs. One is Kevin Belton, star of the PBS show. "Kevin Belton's New Orleans Kitchen". He is a bright star on the American culinary scene, creating recipes whose names make the mouth water. Good news for his fans and affectionados of NOLA cooking. He has a new  cookbook out and it is a home library must have.

 Kevin Belton's New Orleans Celebrations With Rhonda K .Findley (Gibbs Smith Publishing 2019) is a valentine to the city that raised him and celebrates his talent. He is a true child of New Orleans. Its' multicultural and centuries diverse population have influenced three generations of family and it comes through in all the book's recipes. For those who think this is just a cookbook revolving around Cajun and Creole recipes, think again. New Orleans has always been home to various immigrants and Chef Belton has their recipes incorporated between beignets and etouffee. I was surprised to see one of my Greek favorites, dolmades featured in it along with sauerkraut. Yet the Greeks and Germans have contributed to the wealth and culture of southern Louisiana for decades. Chef Belton also has many Sicilian recipes too, from calzone to calamari. The ethnic recipes are kind of sectioned together in  loose chapters but there are also sections celebrating tomatoes, , and cat fish, important ingredients in New Orleans' cooking. There are even fusion recipes like the classic boudin, a kind of sausage topping pizza.

I really like  this book because I really like watching Chef Belton on PBS. His is a fun show, full of humor and learning. The book is an absolute treat much like the show.. The cookbook starts off with his reminisces of his food experiences , from Mardi Gras to the famed NOLA Jazzfest. Another neat thing is Kevin's Take at the bottom of each introduction. They're nuggets of information that will help the home chef as well as enhance the cooking experience. The recipes are manageable and it's fun to see the international influence on the cuisine. The main influence , of course is the Cajun and Creole, and their recipes don't disappoint,The beignets with chocolate sauce is definitely on my must make list What I like is that Chef Belton has both sweet and savory recipes.There are lobster stuffed beignets as well as herbed ham and cheese ones, perfect hors d'ouevres.The gumbo z'herbes is a wonderful melange of different kinds of greens , from spinach to kale simmered with file powder, a New Orleans kitchen must have and cayenne.. Of course there are Po'Boys, from shrimp remoulade to cheesesteak, with a meatball one too, that's also on my to try list. Jambalaya is also here and there's even a breakfast one that has a sunnyside egg topping it. New Orleans is a port  so seafood abounds. Chef Belton has an assortment  of seafood recipes from garlic oysters and oyster chowder to shrimp and grits.

Kevin Belton's New Orleans Celebrations with Rhonda K. Findley is a phenomenal book , celebrating every aspect of NOLA. The recipes are diverse, like the city itself. They're also full of the love and exuberance that Kevin Belton has for his city.

A Year Without The Chef

It has been a year of not having my Mom for recipes and advice. I miss her and I miss her culinary wisdom. The year without her has been sad but interesting. I had to grow and even challenge myself as a home chef and a baker.

The one thing I truly miss is her advice. I always needed it when I was writing about family or Piedmontese or Swabian dishes. She knew. Luckily there are others who can fill me in. I was fortunate enough to interview the Brass Sisters of the PBS show "Food Flirts" and began a foodie relationship with them. It is rare that I do ask for their advice but it i s freely given. I have had to rely on my brother for memories . "Is the taste similar to what they made?" They being our mother and her mother., our Nonna. Sometimes I rely on different websites to help (as any of my readers/ followers will know).All Recipes has been a big help. This is the place to go to for all sorts of recipes from breakfast to snacks.I have also looked at the New York Times Wednesday and Sunday Food sections for inspiration and help. Some worked , some didn't. Making someone else's recipes is not like making family ones. There's no connection  there - no stories and memories of the flavor. Yet cooking is also for trailblazers and that's what I had to become too.

There were also so many highs in the last year. I wish my Mom could have been here to experience them with me. She would have loved the Brass Sisters interview. She may have joined in, offering some of her advice and recipes to them. She would have been thrilled by them as well, because she was a big PBS cooking show fan. I'm sure she would have gently pressured me to interview Lidia Bastianich, or maybe Chris Kimball. She would have been very curious about my interview with Carolyn Robb, Prince Charles' personal chef.My Mom would have recreated the Yorkshire pudding recipe and we would have  doused it with Heintz's roast beef gravy.I think she would have also been amazed that I adapted both her chili and tomato sauce recipes for the crock pot. She was never one for it.Also, how would she feel about me adding California wildflower honey to both? She was more sugar or sliced carrots type of sauce maker. She also would have thought me crazy for baking two hundred cookies, twenty-five cupcakes and one marble layer cake at Christmastime last year. She would have loved the lemon poppy seed cake the oneI made last week ,especially because it was a scratch cake and she loved those.

A year without the chef. She may not be with me physically - but her spirit - her advice and recipes will live on. That's a warm comfort when I feel the chill of loneliness while cooking and baking.

Patti Jinich's Chalupa Moment

Would it surprise anyone that famed Mexican chef, Patti Jinich , has never been to a Taco Bell, She hasn't - and with good reason. Why settle for mediocre fast food when you can create the authentic , tastier version at home.Yet, as the intrepid food authority she is , she went

Kim Severson wrote about Ms. Jinich's first trip ever to the Taco Bell near her home in Chevy Chase,Maryland.It did not go well. She, Ms. Severson and two of her three sons made  a visit to this staple of American fast food.Like Chinese- American and Italian -American dishes, Taco Bell's offering are a pale version of what is actually cooked in Mexico.It's kind of like how we overly  celebrate Cinco de Mayo,which is  just a small holiday there. Ms. Jinich ordered nineteen (!) items to try,all suggestions from her fans. The first was a  ground beef taco in a soft tortilla.Maybe it needed salsa. She tried all four of Taco Bell's salsas  on it and that didn't help.Then there was the chicken chalupa which Ms Jinich declared to be only marginally better. She could see being super hungry and eating it then. The one that finally got her approval was the Dorito Locos Taco Supreme. You have to wonder if she got the Mexican pizza sauce and red strips - the last questionable. (it could be dyed red taco strips). She briefly wondered why is it would called supreme which  is nothing more than an upgrade of sour cream and chopped tomatoes. In the end , her youngest son, Julian or Juju got sick from the food.

It's no wonder. As he told Ms. Severson. he has the best Mexican food at home. Why should he go to Taco Bell. He is right. His mom was beneficial in bringing , true Mexican food from the many different regions to American kitchens. Cooking is in her blood, thanks to her family, especially from her father who ran two restaurants in Mexico City. It did take her a while to grow into it, being a serious and studious child who grew up to receive her master's in Latin American studies at Georgetown University. She wrote policy papers for Inter-American Dialogue, a think tank focused on Latin America and the Caribbean. From there she realized she was more interested in food research than policies.Ms. Jinich enrolled at  night school the L'Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda Maryland and  new career opened up for her.After creating a culinary program on Mexican cuisine at the Mexican Cultural Institute of Washington DC. After conquering crippling stage fright it was onto TV. She went first to the Food Channel, which was not for her and switched over to the more serious PBS station. There she could not only introduce Americans to true Mexican cuisine but also the history of such classics as flan and dulce de leche. Her cookbooks, a must for any cooking enthusiast, show the real side. rich with chorizo and native chiles.It is certainly not the garishly colored, intensely flavored Taco Bell offerings.

Ms. Jinich hopes Americans discover real Mexican cooking. It is one flled with ancho chiles and mole sauce. It's not one loaded with cheese and strange ingredients.

Tasty TV Tidbits

The fall season has most people glued to their TVs and devices, watching and binge watching new or favorite shows.This also applies to food shows both on the PBS and the Cooking Channel. Two stand out , Pati's Mexican Table from Public Television and  Food : Fact Or Fiction.

The first show has been on for five years. It's even received   accolades  worthy of the more well known  Cook's Country or Jacques Pepin's Heart and Soul and has received Emmy and James Beard nominations. The host is the lively and ever enthusiastic Pati Jinich. She actually started out as a political analyst with a Masters in Latin American studies.The show started in 2011, with Ms. Jinich showing how to make different recipes but also trying and tasting them with her friends and sons.Her career, though began in 2007 when she left policy making for her passion  cooking her native food. She launched Pati's Mexican Table, an ongoing series of culinary programs comprised of interesting talks and lectures, cooking demonstrations and tasting tables.What is great about her program is that it's not just a general blanket of Mexican cooking. She shows the various regions and the ingredients local to the area.It's not only tacos and guacamole..It's so much more. Ms. Jinich has done shows revolving around paletas, Mexican ice pops.Mexican brunches, and street food.She combines foods that normally wouldn't go together such as guacamole and steak, along with providing drink recipes too,It's a lively show and informative, especially for those home chefs who want to break out of the typical taco and tortilla box.

The second show is a fun history and food show, Fact Or Fiction.  T Michael McKean is the host., He first started out as Lenny on the Seventies TV show "Laverne & Shirley".along with being a fixture in many Christopher Guest movies.  You would think he wouldn't be a good match but he is. His laid back style , sometimes serious , is perfect for this witty , well crafted and fast paced show. Questions are posed and then there's facts backing them up or if they're fiction. One poser was did the Italians invent pizza?What followed was an interesting collage of history , fact and a pizza expert showing how the ancient Persians made something similar with flatbread and their shields.Another fascinating segment was questioning where hamburgers came from. It was a surprise to know that Genghis and Kubla Khan had a hand in its' invention. How? The Tartars brought it to the Russians where it was transformed into the raw meat dish, steak Tartare. From there it went to Hamburg, Germany via Russian sailors and the rest is history. Again it's a fun and informative  piece that Mr. McKean tells with the enthusiasm of a cool and relaxed history prof, inviting you to share a burger with him at his place.

There are some good television shows on right now., especially those centered around cooking and food. Take a look at both Pati's Mexican Table and Food Fact Or Fiction. They'll het the appetite for good food and where it came from.

The Great British Bake Off Returns

The scheduling people at PBS may or may not have a wicked or warped sense of humor.It seems almost too coincidental that another season of "The Great British Bake Off  - Season Six" is airing July 4th weekend along with the chaotic stew of Brexit. Either way, it shows the UK at its' idyllic and coziest best.It's all sweetness and Victoria sponge.

This latest season which aired last August 15  is now going to be shown here in the US. Episode One already has been shown, as other PBS stations around the country have given it the Friday 9 PM
slot. Here in the New York metro area, we have  to watch it on Sunday afternoons at four (that is if any of us are around, There are die hard fans who will,but luckily we can catch up on the PBS website later on). The hosts and judges are back, There are the spicy and sweet Mel Giedroyc and Sue Perkins who offer saucy asides  and comfort to nervous contestants. Check out what they say during the Madeira cake challenge because the cake is known for its' defining crack. (see where this is going). Of course there are the judges, Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry. Hollywood is a burly , yet more suave version of Alec Baldwin who lends some asperity and much needed stringency to a contest that can sometimes get a bit too sugary with emotions.Ms. Berry,  a kind of British Betty Crocker, is the sweet yet demanding grandmother who does think your tea scones are scrummy even though they're lacking in appearance. Both are excellent in giving hints and tips.

The one thing about the show is that the contestants represent a wide swath of British society. Some have Southeastern Asian backgrounds, one is Bangladeshi. Most are true blue Britons, coming from
such diverse areas of the island such as Yorkshire, London and Manchester. There is one from Swansea, Wales and another from Dunkeld, Perth and Kinross in Scotland. . The xenophobes who more or less caused the Brexit with the EU could learn valuable lessons from this show and it's not the ones regarding the best icing or the tenderest crumb. Foodies and sweet tooths will love the different contests .As always all sorts of baked goods will be executed and the episodes are divided into three sections : the signature, the technical and the showstopper. The technical is always a recipe from Mr. Hollywood's or Ms Berry's recipe books and a step or two is always omitted to flummox the bakers.I love the showstoppers, This is where contestants get creative and whip up creations that are just breath taking. Everything will be covered this season, from vol au vents to breads to biscuits.

Brexit showed the UK at its' worst. The Great British Bake Off remedies that poisonous hatred and presents us with a contest where people of all colors and religions come together. Yes, it's a contest but its' a fun friendly one.

The Bake Off Returns

Who doesn't like a competition show. There's drama, tears, back stabbing and Victoria sponge.Yep, the Great British Bake Off is back on the air in America at 7PM on Sundays, thanks to the good people at PBS.It's an informative and fun romp through the various levels of baking. Because it's British to the core, it's not as brutal as some Yank competition shows. It's sort of like a tea- but with bite.

The judges are back - the suave but stingingly honest Paul Hollywood,the sweetly stringent Mary Berry, and the hosts Sue Perkins and Mel Giedroyc. These two are a comedy duo but have also hosted other English  food shows  such as Light Lunch and Late Lunch.Ms Perkins also was featured with food critic Giles Coren on the Supersizers series where they ate dishes from various centuries. Together this band  creates the perfect blend of serious and funny. The hosts offer encouragement and laughter to stressed out bakers, while Mr. Hollywood and Ms Berry offer advice in a teacher like way similar to Tim Gunn's way on Project Runway. The show is divided into three sections, the signature bake where bakers have to make their own recipes according to a certain theme (such as sponge or pies) the technical which is where they all  must follow one recipe) usually one contributed by  Mr. Hollywood or Ms. Berry) and the show stopper, This last tests the bakers on their skill and talent. All the shows a have a theme, whether, breads, pies, cakes, and biscuits - or cookies here.

Unlike some competition show, the competitors aren't cut throat or even that back stabbing. Maybe it's because they're British and they possess a certain civility there. Like American competitions, the backgrounds are varied. There are no professional bakers here. This season,  Season 5 is just starting here (it's the middle of season 6 in the UK). There is Beca, a Welsh military wife who loves both singing and baking, Ali, from Birmingham is the only baker in his family  and loves to create tarts while Rob is a space satellite designers who has a thing for foraging mushrooms The bakers are as young as 18 such as Ruby and , older more experienced home bakers such as Deborah and Howard. There are ten bakers per season and the final three compete for the title of Britain's best baker. PBS will air the second show tomorrow.The best moment , came from Josh , a baker eliminated  in the very first show. He accidently subbed in salt for sugar in  the technical challenge of angel  food cake. Seeing Mr. Hollywood choke on it was priceless. Sad to say it was one of the reasons josh was voted off.

The Great British Bake Off is a sweet treat on a Sunday night. Watch it for the drama but also  for the great rcipes. It''s a fun and educating race to be the best bakers  the United Kingdom has to offer..

Classy Chefs On PBS

Long before the Food Channel, there was PBS's line up of cooking shows.It started in the early Sixties with the famed ,great Julia Child and continues to today.They maybe quieter than the brighter, more in your face shows on other channels but their low key style speaks volumes.Watching them is like spending time ,learning from a master chef. One of the most famous is Jacques Pepin.Chef Pepin is the child of French restauranteurs.His background is distinguished,being one of French President's Charles DeGaulle's chef.He also helped revamped Howard Johnson's menu back in the Sixties.His shows have always been very quiet, yet informative.Even when he and his daughter,Claudine cohosted a cooking program together, it was never loud or sweetly cloying as some family centered cooking shows are.He shows home chefs not to have any fear with dealing with sometimes foreign or unfamiliar ingredients.The way he makes gnocchis and eggs are poetic, quietly going through the steps, acting much like a thoughtful professor.Another great master chef is Lidia Bastianich.Chef Bastianich is known for her amazing restaurants,Del Posto of New York City and Lidia's of Kansas City and Lidia's of Pittsburgh.Watching her explain the different steps along with her hints is quietly informative.There's no gimmicks, no bells and whistles.She is very good at explaining everything, from why a certain ingredient is used to what knives to employ when cutting meat.Her other show, Lidia Celebrates America is a great culinary travelogue where she explores different ethnic groups, enjoying their customs and show viewers, not only different cuisines but the different traditions and cultures that they've come from. One of the best PBS cooking show is America's Test Kitchen.This is a fun half hour,chock full of advice, hints and recipes.The host, Christopher Kimball is like your favorite professor.He is goofy at times, funny but vastly knowledgeable.He is helped by Bridget Lancaster, and Julia Colin Davison.These chefs create the different dishes while Kimball asks pertinent questions and helps out.There is also the very informative Tasting Lab segment where the audience blind taste tests different foods.This is a great way of finding out what canned and boxed foods are the best tasting. Another informative segment is the Adam Reid who handles the Equipment Corner.This is where he shows different gadgets from blenders to cookie presses and rating from best to worst. The show also centers around weekly themes, from pizzas to roast chicken to crumb cakes.While American's Test Kitchen is primarily American cuisine, PBS has some very good ethnic ones.There's Daisy Cooks with host chef Daisy Martinez who brings Spanish and Latino cuisine to viewers.Scandanavian cooking is shown in New Scandanavian Cooking, a rarity, because there has never been an interest in this ancient and varied cuisines along with shows solely featuring Thai and Jewish cooking. PBS may not have flashy food shows with personality super stars,but it does have quality cooking shows with great master chefs. Home chefs will learn as much as if they took a cooking course.There a&e Re lessons to be learned and great recipes to try.