The Newest Trend: Old Skillets

At one time or another home chefs hear the family lore about cast iron skillets.How sturdy they were, how they could could everything from eggs to cornbread. It leaves the modern cook, used to Teflon coated ones, with some envy. Luckily this American classic is coming back big time.

Julia Moskin wrote about them in today's New York York Times Food section. Many home chefs as well as professional ones are falling in love with this leftover from the 18th Century and with good reason. They are versatile and can be used to cook up everything from breakfast to dessert.Another reason is that cast iron is a better conductor of heat than the more modern stainless steel and aluminum.It keep the food cooked in it hotter long after the heat below has been turned off. Home chefs looking to buy one should be warned. Don't be lured by price. Yes, Wal-Mart offers one for only sixteen dollars - which is a true bargain but it's not that great. Opt for the more costly Finex ten inch skillet which sells for $165 or the pricier Borough  Furnace skillet at $250. For fifty dollars more home chefs can get the Field one.Home chefs should remember that the more expensive ones are made the same with old fashioned craftsmanship. From the 1700's on skillets were hand poured and polished . The end result was a thinner , lighter skillet with a smooth cooking surface, attributes that the modern ones such as the Wal-Mart Lodge one doesn't have.The new pans do come preseasoned, something that had to be done at home with earlier ones

Many home chefs have a problem with preseasoning and tempering, according to Ms. Moskin Each of the skillet makers have their own preferred system of cleaning and reseasoning.The advice is simple: treat the pan as a 19th Century cook would.Just simple cooking and cleaning will season it.Skillets had natural coatings formed by cooking with fat and bonding the fat molecules to the pan's surface.She recommends using the pan often for projects like shallow frying, cooking bacon or frying chicken.Afterwards, scrape the surface clean with a stiff brush, a bench scraper, a kind of chopper, or just salt. Rinse with very hot water and if needed a drop of soap. Put it back on the stove over a low heat until completely dry, This is what makes the patina.Keep in mind though that if the pan is unused for a long time , the coating will become sticky, rusty or even both, Store skillets in the cupboard or better yet the oven to protect them from dust. If there are a stack of them, then place paper towels between them.Cast iron will last decades if treated properly, and makes a great legacy gift for anyone

An old fashioned cast iron skillet is a modern kitchen must have. It can fry ,bake and saute along with lasting for decades. Forget all these Teflon coated pans. Get the real deal!

Fermenting Your Diet

Many home chefs think that fermenting foods is an elaborate and complicated process.It really isn't thanks to a new cookbook that pares it down to an easy science.Anyone , from novice to expert transform simple cabbage into sauerkraut and tea into kombucha.

Fermented Foods At Every Meal (Fair Winds Press) is both an interesting guidebook and cookbook on the basics of fermentation and the recipes that spring form the fermented foods and beverages. Hayley Barisa Ryscek, the voice behind the healthy cooking and natural lifestyle blog Health Starts in The Kitchen, as well as being the author of several healthy eating cookbooks wrote this fascinating book She is big on fermentation, we all need it in our diet to protect ourselves and maintain our gut health. It also leads to longevity as in seen in Japan's Okinawa Archipelago where many live to 100 years and beyond. . The first chapter explains the difference between prebiotics and probiotics and why we need to increase the former's intake.There's an interesting section on the science of fermentation too as well as suggestions for what foods and cultures to buy. Everything is spelled out from what tools to use in the process to steps in the recipes. The chapters are divided by the cultures such as creme fraiche followed by recipes that use it and fermented ketchup (!) and its' many ideas. Another great thing about the book is the ever helpful hints that are highlighted in bright gold. These provide first time fermenters with valuable tips.

This is not a typical cookbook where there are chapters on meals, snacks and sweets,Each one starts out with the featured culture and the recipes that follow them. There's also a history included too. Creme fraiche lovers  will love its' chapter with its' how to make and ferment along with such recipes as berry topped chevre cheesecake cups, cherry compote ice cream, and cheesy beef stuffed baked potatoes topped with it. Kefir is a must make fermented drink that also has its' due. It's used mainly as a drink but it's also in the tasty chocolate peanut butter banana breakfast smoothie as well as in a creamy cole slaw .Of course there's a chapter on the greatest fermentation of all-  sauerkraut. Surprisingly enough it's just cabbage ribbons fermented in sea salt and its own juice. Surprisingly also is that it''s not just for accompanying bratwurst.It's put into smoothies  and a hash made with sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. There is a bratwurst and sauerkraut recipe but livened up with quinoa. Kombucha is a big drink right now and there is a chapter on it . There are fun ferments such as ketchup and chutney along with salsa. perfect for giving a summer party a healthy kick. There's also a chapter dedicated to yogurt along with such fun recipes like strawberry banana yogurt to go tubes ,smoked salmon spread, lamb kofta with herbed tztzakiki and frozen yogurt bark,

Fermented Foods In Every Meal is a great book for those wanting to have a healthy probiotic diet. The  how to s are easy along with the recipes. It is a must have for every kitchen and for every home chef interested in fermented foods and drinks,

A Hunk of Roast Beef

I normally don't write personal stories on this blog. Foodie Pantry has always been about recipes and dishes, trends and cuisines. Yet I feel this one story has to be told. It's about my 24 year old British shorthair , Shelby, who we lost yesterday to lung cancer She was an exceptional cat, a true gourmand, perfect for this foodie cat mom.

She was a rescue cat from our local shelter. The story started when our other house cat , a fiery calico, appropriately  named Sparkey sneaked out. My brother went to the local shelter, here in Bergen Country ,in the hopes of finding her (she was hiding in her old stomping grounds, a wild patch of land called The Gully behind my house). He had come back with the news , not of Sparkey, but of Shelby, a big friendly "male" who love to be petted. The he was a she , an older rescue, maybe ten, maybe eleven years  in age Another cat? No! We had way too many inside and out. Not another. Yet when I went for a second visit, fell in love with this chunky girl with the most expressive celadon colored eyes. Her eyes are what riveted you to her. They were wide discs that took in everything.  Her fur was a thick, slate gray, the color of dark rain clouds. She had huge round paws that were almost circular in shape. I knew she had to have some kind of  pedigree to her but what? Maybe Persian? I found out she was a British shorthair thanks to looking though a cat magazine that featured the breed., She became my little aristocrat.True to her English blood  she loved London broil and roast beef. She'd walk the length of her couch (everything in the living room was automatically declared hers) over her Froggie pillow to make sure she got a bite of my roast beef . I always had extra for her, She gobbled it down,

It wasn't just roast beef. From the start she loved pepperoni. I guess her original pet parent spoiled her with it. She loved nibbling on the slices, even the soy ones my brother ate. Chicken was another favorite along with ham and any Italian cold cuts. She loved the Wendy's burgers and Popeye's chicken I brought home. Shelby was a big cheese lover too. Any cheese, from the gooey mozzarella on my pizza to cream cheese to Brie was always- well - catnip to her. She loved cheddar, not settling for just a few small pieces. She wanted the whole slice  - to herself . Other favorites were butter and margarine. Every morning  we ate breakfast together, She had her food along with two little bites of margarine soaked whole wheat toast even up to her passing. Eggs were another passion. She went mad for the eggy custard flan that my brother's assistant would make us for the holidays. Shelby would give that unblinking celadon stare that said quite loudly "That's mine. Please give me it and I 'll let you have the leftovers". Of course she also loved soft boiled eggs, enthusiastically licking the yolk that I purposely left for her. Whipped cream was another favorite. I'd  dip my fingers in whatever sundae or fruit and cream and let her lick each one. Usually she'd be full after the ninth fingertip.To build her up in her later years I'd give her baby food which she shared with another of our rescue cats, a handsome but skittish rescue boy named Lucky. They'd share a jar of Gerber's ham  and be satisfied for the evening (or until her late night snack at around 11:30).

Shelby, I miss you . I miss my little foodie aristocrat who loved eating as much as her pet mama.I know you are up in heaven , nibbling the best cheddar and of  course, roast beef. One day we'll be together again, raiding the angels' refrigerator.

Summer Spritzers And Sparklers

One of the most refreshing summer drinks is anything made with seltzer. The fizz makes any wine or juice festive and it's a nice departure from the usual cocktails and ades. They're perfect for barbecues or even just enjoying movie night by yourself.

The New York Times Food section on Wednesday gave some good advice regarding making the perfect spritzer. Robert Simonsen wrote about going to and looking towards Northern Italy for inspiration. Generations have made the perfect spritzer. All it takes is three factors : bitter , bubbly and low in alcohol.Sadly , us Yanks made a blander version popular in the States during the Seventies and Eighties.It was known as the white wine spritzer in which any white was combined with seltzer. It wasn't a memorable drink , neither in taste or character. The true Italian spritzers should be more wine than seltzer or soda water. What is used is up to the bartender. Seltzer is the best because there's  more of a lightness and fizz. Soda water has a definite mineral taste in it that can detracts from the flavors of the other ingredients One of the best spritzes is the Aperol, composed of the bitter orange liqueur, prosecco, the Italian sparkling wine, and seltzer.Another refreshing combo is a mix of California Chardonnay with Bruto Americano, a liqueur with such diverse ingredients as coffee bark, bitter Seville oranges and balsam fir, Pink grape juice give it a blush color in this spritz called Cali Spritz, created by Jon Santer, owner of the Emeryville California bar Prizefighter.

Seltzer can also liven up the non alcoholic as well. These are called sparklers and can be made with a variety of juices. You can use store bought  fruit juices or crushed fruit. For the first try to get the purest and the most natural. The Simply Juice company sells juices as if they've just come from the juicer itself. Try their lemon or limeade for a truly refreshing thirst quencher. The two can be combine and mixed with seltzer for a tart drink, perfect for those holiday barbecues.Their orange juice is another one that can be mixed with any fizzy seltzer for a drink that can be sipped all day long. In fact it make for a perfect virgin or clean mimosa for any brunch.Cranberry fans could make a clean Cape Codder spiking up the juice with seltzer. As for fresh juices you can use a juicer. The drinks will have a different, more fresher taste. Home mixologists can also use fruit simple syrups, a variation of the classic bar staple. Basically it's a cup of sugar and water mixed with one and a half cups of fruit.They're boiled together and then strained through a fine mesh strainer. Any fruit can be used. Think tart for some flavor contrast. Take advantage of the blackberry and raspberry season right now. They not only make for flavor packed drinks but also for pretty ones too. The cooked berries tint the seltzer  lovely shades of pink.

It's summer, the perfect time for both spritzers and sparklers. Open a few bottles of seltzer and create a cool and bubbly thirst quencher,excellent for a hot summer's night. Sit back, look at the stars and sip.

Bananas For Banana "Ice Cream"

After writing about the ice cream made solely from bananas, I couldn't resist and made it.  As always it takes me a long time to jump on the bandwagon, The recipe has been around for a few years, I had seen it on every show  from Dr. Oz to my local Fox Channel 5 AM show "Good Morning".

 I think my initial resistance was that it's a fad and that people will forget about it. I just wrote about it in Monday's entry.I just had to try it after seeing all the pictures. It looked too creamy and luscious.

And you know what? I was hooked. It's easy to make. Just take a very ripe banana, the kind with a lot of brown and black spots., Slice into coins and then freeze , preferably overnight in a freezer bag.

I then added them to my mini food processor. Some recipes call either for this or a blender. Stick with the food processor. The blades are sharper and can handle the frozen fruit better.

                                 
                     Now pulse. It'll look like either oatmeal or flaked coconut.

It then goes through a gooey stage. Hang in there. I guess this is the part where the pectin in the banana melts with the ice crystals . It gets better.

Much better. See how creamy and airy it is? It really does look like soft serve ice cream.

Now, many people  would just end it there,but I didn't.

I turned my batch into a sundae and before any of you think it's counterproductive, look closely. The syrup is Hershey's Lite syrup with only 20 calories a serving and Stop & Shop's Lite Whipped Whipped Cream at only 10 (!!!) calories a serving. It's like the lowest calorie banana split ever.

What you do with it is up to you? Many add cocoa powder for chocolate "ice cream". Some add almonds or peanut butter. You can even sprinkle chocolate chips, jimmies or mini M&Msover it or blend them in. . It can even be plopped in a cone or waffle bowl if you like. You also don't have to just use one banana. Make a bigger batch with two or three. The  "ice cream" lasts for one week, however I know from experience - it won't. Make your own batch and see why.

The Perfect Summer Dessert

Summer brings about a desire for light, airy desserts.They usually involve cream and the fruit harvest of the season.Imagine a sugary , dense Sicilian cassata  , usually a cold weather cake transformed into one perfect for a warm weather party.

David Tanis did just that and wrote about it in his column, A City Kitchen, in yesterday's New York Times Food section Cassata is a passed down kind of a recipe , first originating in Arab ruled Sicily in the late 1100's. It is usually a heavy affair , made with layers of ricotta cheese  plus chocolate or vanilla filling.It's covered with a shell of almond marzipan and elaborately decorated. Most Sicilian bakers also soak the cake  layers in rum or liqueur It's not what many would think of a dessert for a sweltering late June dessert. Mr Tanis lightens it up considerably.The only part kept is the sponge cake for the layers. Gone is the cloying , sugary icing along with the rococo decorations. The filling is only ricotta while for the liqueur use  either the eye opening grappa or vodka . Fresh fruit is used instead of the usual candied ones, so it has the feel of an elaborate shortcake. Home bakers should not be put off by this recipe as they would be by the original. It' 's pretty easy to create and assemble. They can also put their own spin on the recipe. Mr. Tanis uses strawberries but recommends also trying peaches, mangoes and nectarines.If they want , they could even sub in the less sweeter blackberries and raspberries, also in season right now.

What makes cassata so unique is the ricotta. It should be the freshest and the tastiest. Most good cheese stores or salumerias, Italian delis, should have it.It must be  moist , without any sourness.Taste it if you can before buying.The texture should be smooth  not grainy. Mr. Tanis suggests sampling  several kinds to understand the broad ranges of them. As for the soaking the layers, home bakers can play around with the syrup.If the grappa is too intense (and it might be to those who aren't used to its' strong flavor), try light rum or better yet limoncello, the tart Italian liqueur. For a non alcoholic one, sub in a honey syrup, perhaps a floral infused one.Orange liqueur can also be great in soaking the cake layers. One of the best things about cassata is that the cake layers can be made a day ahead. They are a classic sponge made with six eggs. flavored with true Sicilian flavors, almond and lemon. Bake it the day before serving because it will be easier to slice into layers at a day old. The ideal time to assemble a cassata is in the morning so that the flavors will meld . Paint the layers first with the liqueur infused lemon syrup then spread the layers with the ricotta.Settle it in the fridge for the afternoon, or  the entire day if you have time.Add the strawberries or any other fruit on top just before serving. the berries can be tossed in sugar and lemon before or just dusted with confectioner's sugar.

A toned down cassata is the perfect cake for summer. Add some fresh strawberries along with grappa  or vodka for zing. It's a nice treat on a sultry night,

Porchetta Season.

Early summer in Italy is always magical.There are nectarine colored sunsets, lazy nights, drinking Prosecco in outdoor cafes. and the aroma of food, ever present. It is also the time of food festivals throughout the Republic , where natives and tourists can sample the most delicious street fare. One of them, porchetta, is being celebrated right now.

Julia Moskin not only got to write about it in today's New York Times Food section but also got to visit Umbria where the festival is held and savored this most amazing dish.Porchetta originated in Rome but is also found in other regions throughout Italy and on the island of Sardinia. It is a popular dish , usually sold at Italian street fairs or sagras. Porchetta is almost a religion, going deep both in the Umbrian heritage and psyche,A new meat supplier there, Etrusco is producing the  meat used for it the way it was produced during an earlier generation's day with bigger than average pigs and cows.This means larger cuts with a more flavorful taste.Etrusco's founder ,Valentino Gerbi who is also a butcher,  believes in embracing the peasant traditions of "no compromises , no shortcuts" as he puts it. Many other farmers are also following suite.The pigs are grazing  out doors, eating corn and barley  instead of bone meal along with taking no antibiotics or supplements avers another farmer, Ramon Rustico.He also states that people want to eat cebu vero - real food that is hearty and satisifying both in taste and proportion.. The pigs, used for porchetta  are descended from the British strain ,Large White. They're known for their particularly large and muscular legs which are used in making prosciutto.

What is porchetta exactly?. It is a deboned and gutted pig that has been stuffed with garlic and herbs.It is then roasted in its' skin until it is crunchy , juicy and , as Ms, Moskin puts it, insanely aromatic.The dish is not for the squeamish or animal lovers.The head is left on,which gives it the appearance of a pig  in a brown sleeping bag.It is then sliced  and either stuffed into crusty rolls or between slabs of equally aromatic foccaccia. Every slice is magical, with spirals of tender meat, lush fat and crunchy cracklings.The goal of eating it is to get all three textures in every bite.Most Italians use shallots and garlic along with salt and pepper. It's finished with a golden dusting of fennel pollen. Porchetta can be made in an American kitchen.It is labor intensive because all the bones (namely about 200 of them, with just 32 for the ribs) have to be removed. Home chef's don't need any surgical skills, just patience, and possibly help doing this.Ms. Moskin gives a recipe that is relatively easy to follow. She uses the easier to handle whole bone on with skin pork shoulder..It does call for fennel pollen which is easy to get over the internet and at some specialty stores.(although it grows wild in Northern California so it's easy to harvest and bring home).If not, use minced fresh rosemary and garlic for flavoring. Serve on focaccia or better yet, kaiser rolls.

Porchetta is one of those heavenly Italian creations that leave foodies and gourmands wanting more. It is easy to replicate that blend of crunch , juice and aroma. Make it , instead of barbecue for a true taste of Italy in early summer.