Thanksgiving Pie Fest

 Pie is always a definite on the Thanksgiving menu. It's a dessert that brings back sweet memories and favorite tastes Nothing beats a homemade slice , with a flaky crust and a delicious filling.

New contributor Vaughn Vreeland who is also supervising video producer for NYT Cooking also wrote this piece about pies in today's New York Times Food section.These are not traditional recipes like pumpkin or pecan. The Times asked Mr. Vreeland to come up with some new recipes that are bound to be instant classics.They can still have the flavor of the holiday like Mr. Vreeland's Cranberry Citrus Meringue Pie.This is a yummy blend of citrus curd featuring lemon and orange juices with a homemade cranberry sauce. It;s topped with a meringue.There is a pumpkin pie but the recipe is shaken up with the addition of  toasted sesame oil and tahini. The finished  products has a top of swirled pumpkin and tahini , creating a pretty marbled effect.Many home bakers make the classic banana pudding for the holiday. Now imagine that in a flaky crust. Mr. Vreeland has a buttery vanilla wafer crumb, similar to a cheese cake crust. It';s filled with a homemade banana pudding.The whipped cream topping has been redone with creme fraiche added to give it a refreshing tang.

Everyone love a good "candy" pie.Tha'ts usually pecan but Mr Vreeland offers a coconut caramel tart. The crust is a yummy chocolate cookie kind of crust.The filling is like a coconut pudding with four large eggs to give it body.The coconut is first toasted in a 350 degree Farenheit oven for six to seven minutes. to turn it golden brown.The caramel topping os a homemade one made with either coconut milk or heavy cream.There's also four tablespoons  of melted butter added to give it smoothness and richness.Chess pie is a popular custard pie in the Midwest. A new twist is added with a third of a cup of maple syrup is added. The topping is whipping cream mixed with espresso.Yes there's an apple pie but again this has a twist.A cup of pomengranate juice is added along with three quarters of teaspoon of cardamon. As for the pie dough , its;a laminated dough.It's made with apple sider molded into squares and then it can be frozen until you're ready to use it.There will be floury bits but that's OK.

Happiness is a slice of homemade pie. TRy these recipes and enjoy pure joy. They're different and a twist on the traditional.

The Best Chocolate Cake Recipe Ever

 Everyone needs that go to sessert recipe for te  holidays.It's usally cookies or pie however don;t discount a good cake one. Nothing says dream dessert than a chocolate cake, layered with a richy creamy frosting,Luckily there;s a recipe out there that fills the bill.

Master cake and pastry baker and regular contributor Claire Saffitz gave the recipe along with useful advice in yestrday's New York Times Food section,. Her cake is moist, dense and dark. Unlike other chocolate sctach cakes she uses cocoa powder instead of melting chocolate bits . Melted chocolate tends to dry out cake batter.Also bar cocolate or chocolate chips tends to add more sweetness (unless you're using baker's chocolate) She recommends Dutch process which means that the cocoa has been alkalized, neutralizing some of the chocolate's natural acidity.It also gives the cocoa a much more rounded  roasted flavor and a deeper, richer color. Also nix the butter. Add a neutral oil like avocado or vegetable. Oil is liquid at room temperature so an ol based cake has less of a tendency to dry out, Cakes do need a butter fat flavro but se uses creme fraiche or sour cream. This reacts with the baking powder, giving the texture or crumb s light bounciness,

Of course you can use chocolate bars, but in the frosting. This gives the icing a high gloss and shiny , finished look. ms Saffitz opts for a German buttercream which is whipping butter in a pastry cream base for a denser texture. The pudding base calls for cooking four large flour , sugar and milk on a stove top before adding a mix of chopped semisweet chocolate and cocoa powderTwo and aquarter cups of melted butter are added into the cooling mix, Use a mixer for this so you can get a smooth, spreadable glossy icing.Add two tablespoons of vanilla extract last, beat again and then spread on the cake.As for frosting, a good one cupof buttercream should work bwtween the layers. The to[p and sides should onyl have a very thin layer of the frosting on them. You could decorate with shaved chocolate if you want, Anything else would ruin this beautiful cake.

This chocolate cake is the perfect holiday dessert. Its a richer more legant spin on just your average cake. Try it for a show stopping end,

A Baker's Shortcut Puff Pastry

 One of the tastiest and most elegant of dishes to serve is a puff pastry tart. Savory or sweet, it's a nice classy way to have vegetables, meats or fruit. The only problem is making the crust. never fear. That's where the frozen kind comes into play.

Melissa Clark wrote about the joy of it in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Home bakers can make the crust at home. The basic recipe is just a good French or culture butter, cold water  and flour. However making a dough from these can be labor intensive and time consuming. A store bought one is a godsend. It cuts down on everything and you can concentrate on the fillings. Ms. Clark recommends tracking down a good brand (some swear by Trader Joe's). Most packages of it usually comes out around the Christmas holidays so you could stock up on it then for Spring and summer baking. Once out of the freezer it does need to thaw out for about  three six hours in the fridge where it will keep for a week. If you're pressed fro time. let it thaw out on  a metal sheet and turn it over every fifteen minutes. AVOID the microwave..It will melt some areas of the pastry into sticky puddles while other parts rigid and frozen. Cook all the fruits and veggies before topping. This eliminates moisture from seeping onto the buttery layers and remember to spread only two to four cups of them. 

Ms. Clark gives two fillings, The first is a veggie one with your choice of veggies. For a true Gallic one , thinks leeks and onions. You could also skip the leeks and add sliced and cooked  cherry tomatoes.Broccoli and broccolini also are great toppings. One just with eggplant is another yummy choice or you could go with all root vegetables.There is first a layer of creme fraiche mixed with egg, Parmesan, lemon zest or rosemary and garlic. Shredded Gruyere can also be added. Rosemary springs top it and then it's baked for twenty to twenty five minutes in a 425 degree F. oven. The sweet version can have all sorts of toppings from strawberry and rhubarb - in season right now to any kind of berry. Peaches are also good. Roasted Demerara sugar is used as is the granulated kind. This last is mixed in with cornstarch and salt to be added to the cut fruit along with lemon juice honey and vanilla. The dough should be rolled out on the roasted and cooled Demerara sugar. The fruit should be given one final toss to dissolve any honey that may have clumped. Sprinkled Demerara sugar over the entire filled tart The tart should be baked for thirty to forty minutes or until the crust is golden in a 400 degree F oven . 

A puff pastry tart is the perfect dinner or dessert. Just buy a frozen crust to make it easier. The result is a hassle free taste of classiness.

Breakfast Treats

The holidays are still with it and with them, long lazy breakfasts with the family. what better to celebrate this time together with a fun and tasty breakfast dish. Savory or sweet, it's a nice relaxed way to gather with the family.

Melissa Clark knows this and featured tasty breakfast dishes in her Christmas Day A Good Appetite Column  in The New York Times Wednesday Food section. These recipes are perfect for any winter weekend or for a New Year's brunch. There are savory and sweet along with a side that could even see its' way to dessert with a light supper. What is great about all of them is that they're simple enough to put together, especially if you're still fuzzy minded from the night before. The one that intrigues me the most is her take on oatmeal. She turns it into an oatmeal lace cookie with six tablespoons of butter sauteing the oats. Cardamon and cinnamon are added for spice  and then water, heavy cream and salt. This luscious combination is then baked for forty minutes. There's some stirring and more butter (!) is dotted on before baking for another fifteen to twenty minutes.You could serve it with more cream (yes!) and crunchy sugar. Guaranteed, there will not be any leftovers.

Another show stopper is a savory Dutch baby. Usually these giant popovers are sweet, being made with apples and cinnamon. Ms. Clark goes the savory route here. Bacon and Camembert flavor it , a perfect combination. There's also chives and Parmesan for more flavor boost.Many home chefs may have reservations about making the Dutch baby, because it's all about the puffy presentation. Yet it's an easy make with this savory pancake being baked in a skillet. Another savory dish, that could even work for lunch.It's baked eggs with creme fraiche and smoked salmon. It's the classic  two baked eggs in buttered rameklns with the cooked creme fraiche poured over them. The creme fraiche is cooked first with shallots for flavor. Smoked salmon and dill tops off each cup. With these savory dishes Ms. Clark offers a sweet-salty side of broiled grapefruit with flaky  sea salt and brown sugar. This is an easy cook,It's just sliced grapefruit sprinkled with brown sugar along with being drizzled with melted butter and honey. After a quick broil, serve with flaky sea salt. This would be a nice end to light lunch or dinner too.

Breakfasts during this holiday time should be rich and flavorful. It doesn't matter if they're savory or sweet, as long as they're delicious. Try making one or two for family and friends.

The Scoop On Ice Cream Creations

Now that's it's officially summer  it's time to get out the ice cream.Most people are happy with just a scoop of  vanilla i a waffle bowl/ Yet ice cream begs to be turned into something a bit more extravagant. Get out the scoop and get creative.

You 'll need ice cream, whether home made or store bought. If you're cranking it yourself, then go wild with different flavors. Mix rosemary and honey . Try cheesecake with pistachios.  Toss in Raisinets or Milk Duds in a homemade chocolate ice cream.  If you're buying it then stick strictly with ice cream.it holds up better ,  I think, with hot fudge and caramel. It's not as intense and works well with any add ins. One of the easiest ice cream creations to make is the sundae. It's usually just two or  three scoops , drenched in some kind of sauce  and then topped with whipped cream. For a different spin use  a homemade salted chocolate sauce  which is easy to make. It's just taking salted butter and a scant pinch of sea salt to  chopped dark chocolate  and brown sugar. Sundaes are sometimes layered with fruit. For a truly lush creation. have the first layer of strawberries or raspberries , then the ice cream. Top with the chocolate sauce and mounds of homemade whipped cream. Reserve some of the chocolate bar , and using a hasp, shave off  light puffy shards of it to decorate. You can sub in salted  caramel too for the chocolate sauce and topped with chopped  salted caramels .

Banana splits are the height of cool decadence.It's taking three scoops of the same ice cream or three different ones (usually, vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry) and placing them on a long oval dish or banana boat. Slice a banana lengthwise and place on each side of the scoops. Top the vanilla with pineapple , the chocolate with chocolate sauce  and the strawberry with strawberries or strawberry topping. Generously cover with whipped cream, wet walnuts and maraschino cherries.  You can also create a Bananas Foster split too. with vanilla ice cream for a truly decadent dessert or snack. Another fun treat is the classic ice cream sandwich. Moms across the world usually plop ice cream between two giant cookies and then roll them in sprinkles or chopped nuts. Make it  bit more sophisticated. by using pound cake, (it can be store bought) Slice a slice in two and layer softened ice cream on it. It can be placed in a puddle of sauce or coulis and topped with either whipped cream or creme fraiche. For a fancier spin cut  the slices into quarters to make ice cream petit fours. Add a  puff of whipped cream, then top with chocolate shavings, sprinkles or even edible flowers.

It is summer and that means ice cream. Go all out and create something wonderful, cool and tasty . Then enjoy!

Savory Cakes

We all have a notion of what cakes should look like and taste like. We expect a sweet, vanilla or chocolate flavor. Sometimes there's the zing of spice or punch of fruit. We never expect there to be a savory taste. Yet, there's a whole new breed of them out there - savory cakes.

The notion has intrigued me ever since I read about it in David Tanis' A City Kitchen column in last Wednesday's New York Times Food section. He offers a carrot cake, but not the kind loaded with raisins and frosted with cream cheese icing. This one has not a speck of sugar in it, save for the grated carrots. The base is white cornmeal mixed with white flour. Not only are grated carrots added but also zingy scallions along with cumin and black mustard seeds.Like sweet cakes, there are eggs to give it body as well as baking powder and baking soda to give it lift. Unlike its' sugary cousins, feta cheese is also added. Mr. Tanis frosts his with creme fraiche  and is decorated with cilantro sprigs and more scallions. It would go well with the potluck recipe from Melissa Clark's A Good Appetite column. It can also go with salads too, as Mr. Tanis suggests or possible as something to dipped into the yolks of sunny side up eggs.

The entire idea of of a non-sweet cake is fascinating. There are savory cookie recipes,from wafers to shortbreads. These are usually served as hors'd'oeuvres or with soups, a different change up from crackers. Savory cakes? Are there any, besides Mr. Tanis' recipe? Yes.  Eating Well offers one loaded with cauliflower and garbanzo bean flour.  Roasted pepper and dill give it color while feta and eggs give it body.It's served warm  and alone so it's meant to be eaten as the main course. It would work with a plain  salad on the side or possibly grilled chicken breasts or salmon.  Food 52 has a recipe for a savory sausage breakfast cake that's chock full of  pork sausage, onion and cheddar cheese.  The cake element comes with the flour, baking powder and soda along with eggs and milk.Mayo is added for smoothness and a silky crumb. This would be the perfect brunch cake, with a slice accompanying an omelet or again dipped into a sunny side up egg. A slice would also make a good breakfast or even
 lunch on the go too.It would be interesting to make any of these savory cake recipes into cupcakes, frosted with creme fraiche or plain cream cheese or dusted with cumin or paprika.

Savory cakes instead of the traditional sweet? What an interesting idea? It certainly changes the way we think about  and eat cake.

A Tasty Holiday Issue

The New York Times has given us some great holiday recipes and today is yet another issue of yummy Christmas and Hannukah dishes. It's a wide variety of different flavors and textures. along with a vast array of diverse ingredients. Best of all any of these can be a holiday tradition made year after year.

One of the best articles is by Food regular , Julia Moskin, She wrote about that rich , eggy dense pudding - flan. Her recipe is the perfect recipe.It is a smooth textured one  with the zing of lemon added. Cinnamon can be subbed in for the lemon, for a Northern Spanish twist. One of the most disconcerting aspects of the dessert is the caramel topping. This is usually a burnt sugar ,made with just sugar melted in a heavy saucepan. Home chefs attempting this should try a "wet" caramel, with water mixed in with the sugar.It will finish off the flan with that burnt umber syrup.What can go before the flan is Dave Tanis of A City Kitchen 's column.It is a classic French dish that also has bouquet garni and carrots.Horseradish can be slathered on them for a sharp contrast.

Hannukah is also celebrated, thanks to Melissa Clark's olive oil challah recipe. along with Joan Nathan's article on latkes..The first celebrates the miracle of the oil thanks to the addition of this classic ingredient.It is a braided bread that can also be repurposed for French toast and bread puddings. Challah dough is one of the easiest doughs to work with for home chefs. If you want the most traditional dish, then think latkes.Joan Nathan wrote about them in her article. These are not exactly the classic ones, thanks to Chef Daniel Rose.They're made with clarified butter along with being transformed into one big , crispy pancake as opposed to a slew of tiny little pancakes.Onions are also added for an earthy sweetness.It's fried in grapeseed oil and served with creme fraiche and an apple compote instead of the usual sour cream and apple sauce.It can also be used a a based for Eggs Benedict too.

These recipes will make Christmas and Hannukah more memorable. They're classics updated for a better , more enhanced taste. Make anyone part of the holiday cooking tradition.

Voici Des Francais

The French have the best of everything, food , wine and fashion. We see their lives as the greatest, filled with croissants and champagne, Jean-Paul Gautier and the House of Chanel. Yet there's another side of France that also exists - and a new book chronicles this.It's an eye opener for those who love Gallic ideas and l'alimentaire.

 Olivier Magny , a wine expert, entrepreneur and author has just written a  sharply witty guide to understanding all things Gallic, WTF - What The French (New American Library Publishers 2016) opens up a world of life in the City of Light and the Country of Fine Dining Monsiuer Magny has written about every aspect of life, from phrases such as ca va (used a lot) to the French's blase attitude to nudity and cigarettes.Of course some of the most insightful observations come from the chapters highlighting food and wine.The chapter on supermarkets was both eye opening and interesting.I didn't know that the French frequented supermarkets as often as us Yanks do. Most travel articles show endless miles of open air markets called les marches, however it's the big box supermarkets that garner much of a French home chef's business. They do have a wine aisle which is unheard of here in the States  (American grocery stores that do sell wines  usually locate them in a small corner that has its' own entry and exit) along with a generous cheese aisle.Unlike the States where grocery shopping is usually fun, the French see it through a dark lens, There's some guilt in going to a store that exploits farmers along with eating up the smaller, more charming food shops. The last still exists, thankfully and there are still butchers, along with patisseries  and bread bakers.

M. Magny also delves into the french passion for yogurt (!) and Nutella.It comes as another surprise that the country who  gave the world creme fraiche is so hung up on yogurt. It usually us Americans who have cups and popsicles of the stuff in our fridges and freezers.It's caught on there, probably  thanks to Danone, the parent  company of Dannon Yogurt. All fridges have a cup or two. The French have high standards for it, and French yogurt can be seen as healthy or as a dessert - that's how good it is.They even add powdered sugar to the plain one or yaourt nature , mostly to end a meal. The second obsession is Nutella. Anyone born in the mid Seventies and up grew up on the chocolate hazelnut blend.It's put on everything, from croissants to crepes to bread. The passion does ebb as they get older and then it's something to try on holiday. .The French still have their passion for bread, especially the baguette. There's also chapters on fast and slow foods McDonald's is big  but so are kabob shops and boulangeries have expanded their menus to include sandwiches and lunch menus. The country still has a big restaurant culture but there's also a need to eat at home too. Home chefs do;t make fancy meals,preferring salad, pasta or even yogurt. The more elaborate meals are saved for Sundays and family gatherings.

WTF What The French is a fun romp through French life and culture.Olivier Magny has captured his people's quirks and love of food and wine. It's the perfect gift for the Francophile foodie! Vraiment!

The Popular Plum Torte

The New York Times have been giving us all sorts of excellent recipes for the past forty years. Many have made them, bringing gourmet and colorful cooking to home audiences. One of their most famous is plum torte. This mouth watering dessert is back again, delighting a whole new generation of home bakers and gourmands.

Margaux Laskey, author of Motherlode Blog,  wrote about this classic fall dessert in yesterday's New York Times Food section. The recipe originally was published by the famed food writer Marian Burros in 1983. It wasn't her own , though, belonging to her childhood friend Lois Levine. It first appeared in a self published cookbook , "Elegant but Easy" in 1960.The name was first Fruit Torte and it had a fortuitous note "This deserves a ten star rating on our list." As with most tortes, it was easily adaptable. There was a "New Age" version published eight years later, in 1991. The lush ingredients of butter and eggs were replaced by the healthier bananas and egg substitutes. There was also an apple cranberry version in 1994. Food contributor Melissa Clark had her own take on it for Rosh Hashana , subbing in whole wheat flour for white. Ms. Burros, now retired from The Times, still makes the torte, In the summer she uses blueberries and peaches. She doesn't use the summer plums, instead waiting for the smaller , more intensely flavored Italian plums that come in early autumn. Home chefs can use their own spin, and even tweak the recipe to put their thumbprint on it.

The plum torte is a an easy recipe. It's no wonder that a recent Google search yielded nearly 80,000 search results with links to popular food bloggers who laud its' easiness and versatility. It's basically taking 3/4 to a cup of sugar, then adding flour, baking powder salt and eggs. The batter is then spooned into a spring form pan of either eight, nine or ten inches. Then it's splitting and pitting  a dozen Italian plums to place them  skin side up on top of the batter. sprinkle lightly with sugar and lemon juice.Home bakers can add more sugar if they feel the plums aren't sweet enough (it pays to have a taster plum for this). Another dusting , this time ,of cinnamon, is sprinkled on the top. It's usually about a teaspoon but a pinch more is always welcomed. Baking time is one full hour. Let cool before serving with whipped cream.The Times Food site suggests variations  such as subbing in late season peaches and nectarines or apples and pears as the weather gets cooler. Try spicing it with any kind of spice from tame nutmeg to exotic cardamom  or  zingy rosemary. For a healthier spin  try spelt or whole wheat. flour instead of  white.The torte  can also be served with creme fraiche instead of whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.. You can also bake it in a regular pan along with doubling the recipe for holiday gifts..

Nothing beats a classic. This include Marian Burros famed plum torte recipe. It' still delicious and the recipe still holds up for a new generation of home bakers ready to make it

Fermenting Your Diet

Many home chefs think that fermenting foods is an elaborate and complicated process.It really isn't thanks to a new cookbook that pares it down to an easy science.Anyone , from novice to expert transform simple cabbage into sauerkraut and tea into kombucha.

Fermented Foods At Every Meal (Fair Winds Press) is both an interesting guidebook and cookbook on the basics of fermentation and the recipes that spring form the fermented foods and beverages. Hayley Barisa Ryscek, the voice behind the healthy cooking and natural lifestyle blog Health Starts in The Kitchen, as well as being the author of several healthy eating cookbooks wrote this fascinating book She is big on fermentation, we all need it in our diet to protect ourselves and maintain our gut health. It also leads to longevity as in seen in Japan's Okinawa Archipelago where many live to 100 years and beyond. . The first chapter explains the difference between prebiotics and probiotics and why we need to increase the former's intake.There's an interesting section on the science of fermentation too as well as suggestions for what foods and cultures to buy. Everything is spelled out from what tools to use in the process to steps in the recipes. The chapters are divided by the cultures such as creme fraiche followed by recipes that use it and fermented ketchup (!) and its' many ideas. Another great thing about the book is the ever helpful hints that are highlighted in bright gold. These provide first time fermenters with valuable tips.

This is not a typical cookbook where there are chapters on meals, snacks and sweets,Each one starts out with the featured culture and the recipes that follow them. There's also a history included too. Creme fraiche lovers  will love its' chapter with its' how to make and ferment along with such recipes as berry topped chevre cheesecake cups, cherry compote ice cream, and cheesy beef stuffed baked potatoes topped with it. Kefir is a must make fermented drink that also has its' due. It's used mainly as a drink but it's also in the tasty chocolate peanut butter banana breakfast smoothie as well as in a creamy cole slaw .Of course there's a chapter on the greatest fermentation of all-  sauerkraut. Surprisingly enough it's just cabbage ribbons fermented in sea salt and its own juice. Surprisingly also is that it''s not just for accompanying bratwurst.It's put into smoothies  and a hash made with sweet potatoes and Brussels sprouts. There is a bratwurst and sauerkraut recipe but livened up with quinoa. Kombucha is a big drink right now and there is a chapter on it . There are fun ferments such as ketchup and chutney along with salsa. perfect for giving a summer party a healthy kick. There's also a chapter dedicated to yogurt along with such fun recipes like strawberry banana yogurt to go tubes ,smoked salmon spread, lamb kofta with herbed tztzakiki and frozen yogurt bark,

Fermented Foods In Every Meal is a great book for those wanting to have a healthy probiotic diet. The  how to s are easy along with the recipes. It is a must have for every kitchen and for every home chef interested in fermented foods and drinks,

A Better Brunch

Brunches are supposed to be sophisticated affairs yet it seems both home chefs and restaurants still are stuck in the 1950s or 1960s.There are the same old dishes, namely gooey Eggs Benedict and omelets stuffed with soggy veggies and gummy cheeses.It's time to actually serve sophisticated foods made with ingredients suited more for lunch and dinner. David Tanis tackled this problem in his column in yesterday's A City Kitchen column in The Wednesday New York Times Dining section. Brunches both in and out have become pallid affairs.There's no imagination anymore.People ,brunch lovers and even foodie's aren't craving change or any new ideas.This is sad..Mr.Tanis tries to remedy this with spins on classic dishes, even throwing in a variation of a classic Italian dessert.The meal should also be pushed up half an hour to better be classified as more of a weekend lunch.It should also reflect the season.Summer lunches may mean grilled fish with a side of fresh herbs gracing a freshly picked salad . Fall and winter lunches should have a long simmered braised along with featuring the produce of the season. Mr Tanis gives us a truly Spring like lunch.It's great for now or for later on in the season ,perfect for an outdoor gathering.He starts off with a bright and sunny citrus salad , spiked with bubbly Prosecco.(think of this as an homage to that classic brunch libation the mimosa)It is graced with grapefruit ,and Meyer lemon sang with three kinds of oranges, blood, navel and the new Cara Cara.Sugar and almonds are added for sweetness and crunch with a dressing of Prosecco.The main dish is egg free, with it being a crab linguine with creme fraiche.It has mustard and green chile to shake things up.For dessert, it,s a play on the frothy zabaglione.This time it's frozen and espresso flavored. It also has a dash of Cognac along with cocoa powder.It's a great and surprisingly light end for a light meal.Prosecco should be served from beginning to end of the meal instead of mixed drinks. A weekend brunch or lunch should not be weighed down with heaviness.Indulge in good but different than the norm ingredients for something special as well as unique.It will make for a memorable weekend lunch for family or friends.

A Cooling Gazpacho

There ' s nothing like a cooling gazpacho during these dog days of August. It ' s refreshing change from sandwiches and anything grilled.Even better is you can make it any time of the day without working up a sweat.It's great to make right now with fresh tomatoes. The recipe was the subject of Wednesday's City Kitchen column in the New York Times Dining section.David Tanis gives us a good recipe for all those lush vine ripened tomatoes gracing gardens and farmers markets right now.This gazpacho is a rich mélange of those ruby red tomatoes along with garlic and sherry added for nip.It also has cayenne for more bite.ALl the seeds and skins should be removed for a smoother texture and it should be refrigerated for fifteen minutes before serving. The piece de resistance ,though is the topping, a yummy mix of diced bell peppers,Vidalia onions and avocado on a garlic rubbed slice of ciambatta or Italian bread. The veggies are diced into a relish and then with the avocado layered on the slices.It's sort of like the bread topping bouillabaisse .If you want to switch it up some ,nix the bread and relish and just put a scoop of either cream fraiche or even sour cream. If both of these are too much, then just have with simple toasted French bread that's been dipped in olive oil. Gazpacho is an excellent dish on a hot August day.It's different as well as cooling.make it with some vine ripened tomatoes today for a summer lunch or dinner treat.

A Middle Eastern Seder

Yesterdays Dining section in The New York Times had an interesting article about Iranian seders. it's not so much about the religion, but about the country. Persians . Iranians make their holiday meals according to the custom. They tend to follow their former country's culinary traditions as opposed to strictly adhering to their Jewish ones.

The article, expertly, written by Joan Nathan,. tells of the Iranian Jews in Southern California. Many left during the Sixties during the reign of the last shah. They incorporated So Cal staples such as fresh dates into heir Passover dishes. These were mixed with the traditional and ancient spices of turmeric and cardamon. Some dishes such as charoset have bananas added along with pears and pomegranate juice. This is also heavily laced with dried fruits and spices such as cardamon and cinnamon reflecting more the country's tastes than the religious. Also the Iranians add basmati rice, something that American Jews forbid during Passover.

Many dishes have a distinctly Middle Eastern feel to them. There are grape leaves stuffed with dried fruit such as plums, dates and raisins. This is normally not seen in any of the Ashkenazi or even Sephardic dinners. Another variant is the dessert cake. It's a take on the flourless ones using ground almonds with but this time with a variety of spices as a base. Pistachios, a nod towards ancient Persian taste, are added on top. There are also dairy products involved in Passover especially for soon to be married couples. An engaged daughter and her family will have what's called a hametzy that features yogurt and an Iranian version of creme fraiche. The groom's family is supposed to supply the dairy products.

Middle Eastern Jews have the best of both worlds when it comes time for Passover. The combine ancient traditions with their native dishes. This creates a unique blend of the secular and religious world. which is usually separated during this holy time. This provides a strong hold of both cultural and Jewish pride.