All Day Cafe All Day Joy

Can a cafe extend it's day? Yes. These staples of late breakfasts, brunches and lunches  are now extending to dinners. They can serve the same food or switch to a totally different cuisinesIt means more hours to enjoy a favorite place along with bringing in more money for the owners/

Regular contributor Brett Anderson wrote about this not so unusual practice in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. Diners have been practicing this for decades , offering a wide range of meals , from early morning breakfast to late night burgers and fries. Now cafes have Ben jumping on the bandwagon. Having long hours or closing in the early afternoon and reopening later not only means appealing to loyal customers but bringing in more revenue.  Breakfasts are great ways of also bringing in loyal dinner customers and vice versa. According to Vivian Ku,owner of Pine and Crate DTLA, an all day Taiwanese cafe in Los Angeles, it;s a good  way to know customers and cater to their needs whatever the meal is. Then there are the bakery-restaurants that take their cue from casual eateries in Western and Northern Europe. There people can nosh whenever they feel like it and enjoy a lunch  followed by a sweet then come back for dinner and a coffee.

Keeping an all day cafe is a great way of expanding a chef's repertoire. There is Kelsey Britio who opened up the Dutchess in Ojai California. The early meals consist of breakfast plates full of eggs and bacon along with granola while the dinner menu is Burmese dishes like beef stay and Boek House Muttin masala. This varies customers ' tastes too. While they may enjoy a traditional lunch or brunch , dinner can be exotic and palate expanding.There is the similar Cafe Mochiko in Cincinnati , run  by Erik and Elaine Uykimpang-Bentz. During the day it's an Asia bakery that closes for the afternoon and reopens as a Japanese restaurant inspired by yoshuku or Japanese fusion food. There are croissants filled with purple yam and Thai tea snickerdoodle to start the day along with Earl Grey chocolate chunk scone. Dinner is Japanese curry rice and a salute to Cincinnati style chili in an unusual ramen dish.Maybe more restaurants and cafes will follow suit for an unusual all day dining experience.

All day cafes will become more popular as the demand for them increases. It's a fun challenge for chefs. It's a plus for loyal customers.

The Rise Of Hmong Food

 The Hmong people have been displaced for centuries. They may have found a place to thrive in Minnesota.Here they can create their amazing dishes and have a thriving community.

Regular contributor Brett Anderson wrote about this much troubled Chinese minority in today's New York Times food sction. The Hmong are a minority , first coming from the Yellow Basin area and the originating to laos, Viet Nam , Thailand and MYamnar. They were displaced and settled in Minnesota. from a group of 200, living in the St Paul area in 1979 the community has grown to 100,000 to day. This is thanks to both democrats and Republicans working with  churches and other charities t o help with relocation. with them they brought a rich  south asian cuisine similar to Laotian Vietnamese and Thai. Out for this came two award winning restaurants, Vinai and Diane's Place. Both chefs and owners Yia vang and Diane Moua have brought the cushions to Minnesota, which is enjoyed by Hmong looking for a traditional recipes and foodies dyigng to try their small minority cuisine.The food is a mix for grilled and spicy along with a wide variety of meats, fish and veggies.

The cuisine and eateries are garnering a lot of attention, Vinai, named for the refugee camp where ChefVang's parents met is loud and boisterous. Guests are encouraged to order one large protein such as a double cut , tamarind glazed pork chop or a grilled chicken with what Chef Vang calls a southeast Asia sofrito. His personality is just as delicious and delectable.His dishes have appeared on the cover of Bon Appetit magazine and  he has a show "Feral" on the Outdor Channel. Many  diners want a selfie with him. Ms. Moua's menu is a bit different. She longed to bake and went to a culinary school after she married at the age of sixteen. Baking interested her after seeing the cakes at Lunds and Byerly where he mother-in-law had a pop up sushi stand. her brunch is an interesting mix of American breakfast foods and Asian staples like egg rolls. The dinner menu is more Hmong centered. she offers Hmong pulled pork and spicy Hmong sausage with sticky rice. she also bakes croissant and muffins too.

There will be a day when Hmong cuisine will be just as well known as other South Asian cuisines.Thanks t chefs Vang and Moua this is happening. The food will be popular throughout the US and not just in Minnesota.

Tired Of Le Cuisine Francaise

 It's been two weeks since the spectacular and jawdropping opening ceremonies at the Paris Olympics, The world has  have been inundated with all things Francaise including the cuisine. Yet after  a couple of weeks , it seems everyone is tired of those croissants, beurre and escargots.

I've been feeling that way and longed for my summer favorite , the Spanish classic, gazpacho.

This is a refreshing, light cold soup., made with fresh veggies,  like tomatoes peppers and cucumbers. Garlic and onion powder flavor it while white wine vinegar gives it its' zing and oil makes it smooth and creamy.It's a wonderful spoonful after gorging on Camembert on French bread .Don;t get me wrong I love any  French cheese on bread but it can become a bit too much after a while. The same thing for croissants. They are good but too caloric. Time for simple water crackers.

Everyone does love French cuisine  and thankfully there's been a renewed interest  in it since the Paris Games.. Yet the foods , even salad Nicoise, can be too much at times.It's time to pare it your men down for these last weeks of August. Think cool soups like gazpacho or  simple salads   topped with grilled chicken or shrimp. Save the heavy stuff for the cooler fall months ahead.

Explore other countries . Try their dishes. It's a nice change up from  indulging on le cuisine Francaise.

An Ice Cream's Semi Sweet Story

 Ample Hills Ice Cream is a comeback brand. This Brooklyn based frozen dessert has had more spins and turns than a swirled cone. It was successful . Then it wasn;'t, Then it was. then another low point. Now' it's coming back, stronger and better than before.

Regular contributor Julia Moskin wrote about this remarkable company in today's New York Times Food section. The company was first started by Brooklyn couple Jackie Cuscuna and her husband Brian Smith. The original idea came about when the couple moved from their careers, she as a teacher and he as a B movie screenwriter. He was also an ice cream hobbyist with a dream. Mr. Smith hand cranked their product and made up the business as they went along. They finally opened a brick and mortar store in Prospect Parjust before Memorial Day in 2011. he had to close the sotre for a week after, being overcome with exhaustion and elation. Their ice cream Ample Hills , taken from another Brooklynite Walt Whitman's poem, the famed Crossing Brooklyn Ferry was becoming Brooklyn's destination ice cream parlor. Customers fell in love with such flavors as  Snap Mallow Pop and Cherry Cola. It even caught Oprah's attention thanks to her friend  Bob Iger,disney chief executive. He even enlisted the couple to make Marvel and Star war themed ice creams for their theme parks.

Anyone would think that their success would last. It didn't . The smiths failed.The costs of their expansions in 2020 swamped their revenues and in March 2020 the company had to be sold.Mr. Smith  was heartbroken. Ten years of his life had been devoted to creating new flavors and making good and unusual ice cream. The couple declared personal bakruptcy and had to move to a smaller apartment. They worried what they'd do next. They enrolled in a pivot workshop held by the North Brooklyn chamber of Commerce which led them to whuskey wednesdays, a regular networking event held by Norm Brodsky. Mr. Brodsky was a high profile entrepreneur who could sympathize with th esmiths. His courier business created in 1979 went boom then bust in the 1986 stock market crash. Armed with new cash the couple (who also were the subject of a Harvard business course entitiled entrepreneurial failure) opened up the social in 2021.It's lack ofcustomers provided its a second bankruptcy  thanks to opening it at the end of the pandemic.That they ae coming back in Manhattan and Brooklyn with new flavors lik e Morning In Paris that has ground croissant in it and bananpudding which has the ingredients of banana pudding.They want stores and parlors where people cna enjoy their ice cream and they can talk to their customers.

Ample Hills will be back, Loyal customers will return. It's due for a comeback and this time it will be stronger than ever.

Fall Picnics

 The weather is glorious right now. The summer heat has gone away and that makes it wonderful to take hikes or spend a cook day at the beach. It's the perfect time for a picnic basket.

Of course every picnic has to have sandwiches. Think heartier ones with a variety of meats and cheeses. You can even use leftovers from a week day roast for them. Autumn is the time for cheddar. A roast beef and cheddar sandwich on crusty sour dough bread.If you have leftover chicken or turkey shred the meat and layer it on think on a hero roll. You can add cheese , what's left over from your tomato harvest and kale or spinach. You could also make an ultra sophisticated  one with Brie spread on split croissants. What to have for sides? Since it's apple season try a slaw loaded with the Gala kind along with dried cranberries and shredded cabbage. To give it some color and crunch , add in scallions, matchstick carrots and almond slivers. You can sub in walnuts for the almonds for a different spin on flavor.Pears are also in season right now. A pear salad is unusual, easy to carry, and tasty. Think of one with arugula and goat cheese. Keep the dressing simple with a vinaigrette made with olive oil and apple cider vinegar.

Should you bring soup on a picnic? You could if it's two or three people or just yourself. Get yourself a large mouthed thermos which makes pouring easy. A great one is the classic tomato soup , a perfect companion for a cheddar cheese sandwich. You could also bring chicken soup or a potato soup. Pack a packet of oyster crackers along too. What to drink? If it's a bit chilly then think a hot tea or coffee , again brought in a thermos.If the weather is warmer , you could go for cider. It's always a great drink that works with any type of food. If not sparkling water is great as is cold brewed iced tea which can be brewed on the ride over. Picnics should end with some kind of sweet treat. Homemade shortbread is perfect. It travels well and won't get sticky or melty in the afternoon sun. Oatmeal raisin is another great bring. You could bake a double batch, one for the picnic and one for school and office lunch bags. A simple apple cake , easily cut into manageable squares is a good picnic cake. You could also make a spiced or nut snack cake too. Skip the frosting  though because it can get messy if wrapped in Saran wrap.

The weather calls for a picnic. Pack a lunch grab a blanket and set out to enjoy the beautiful season and sunny blue skies. Then enjoy a tasty meal in the cool fresh air,.

The Golden Unicorn The Home Baked Croissant

 Is there such a treat as the home baked croissant? After all this is one of the hardest and most complicated breads or rolls to make. Surprisingly the answer is yes - and even better home bakers can make chocolate, almond and even ham and cheese ones. You don't have to go to a fancy bakery anymore to get these gems.

Claire Saffitz, a  well known pastry chef who both writes for Bon Appetit and appears on their You Tube channel, pondered this and wrote a very detailed how to. Croissants are tough to create. There's that crisp brittle egg washed crust with layers of flaky , buttery bread underneath.  Keep in mind that the bakery made ones are rolled out by slab rollers in temperature controlled rooms. The dough is laminated quickly meaning  flattening the butter out between rolls of dough  which produces light flaky  uniform crescents. Home bakers can do this but this has to be done by hand, making it slower, harder and much more variable. Chef Saffitz encourages though, stating that once you master the dough you can then master  adding those delicious  fillings like ham and cheese, chocolate and almond. Keep in mind that not only baking croissants is labor intensive it's also time consuming. Most of the active works takes place on the first day. Also the kitchen temp has to be cool. Keep it at seventy-six degrees or lower . Make room  in both the fridge and the freezer for the dough or detrempe as the French call it. All the ingredients must be weighed too. The liquid to flour ratio has to be perfect too or you'll wind up with either too dry or too soggy croissants.

The ingredients are just as important. Look for a high protein flour which can support all that butter as well as being a high gluten flour. Chef Saffitz recommends the classic King Arthur all purpose flour; It has a relatively high protein content of 11. 7 and it contains a small amount of malted barley flour. This last gives the crust a crispier cracklier exterior. Yeast is another important factor. Use fresh or baker's yeast.It is more reliable than active dry yeast however the last is easier to find. Make sure it's alive and it's well before its' expiration date.  You can also proof it by adding warm milk in the base recipe and then adding the yeast to proof that. One of the most important ingredients is the butter. Please use European ones like Plusgras or Kerrygold.It's eighty two percent  butter fat at least  where as American butters top out at that . The high fat content lends to the flavor and also makes the butter more "plastic" or malleable. Kerrygold is the best for this because it maintains a waxy malleable texture while resisting cracking or splitting when its' being rolled inside the dough. Then there's the egg wash. Just go careful with this. Use a mix of the yolk and heavy cream for a glossy bronzed crust and wipe the drips off the baking pan. They can burn while the croissants bake.

Yes you can bake buttery,. crisp croissants at home. It's a labor intensive process but once you get the hang of it , it'll be easy. The result is a golden unicorn with flaky layers and a heavenly rich taste.

Balthazar Bakery - The Best Baked Goods Ever

 New Yorkers will tell you - Balthazar Bakery is one of the best in the city, It has everything , from crusty baguettes to buttery galettes and shortbreads. Yet there was always one problem with this gem of a bakery - it was only for Manhattanites. Luckily , there is a solution - its' wholesale out let in Englewood, New Jersey.

The outlet store is located at 214 S.Dean Street in this historic town , just outside of New York City. This location provides bread for all the local restaurants but the public can also buy here. Due to the virus, only six customers are allowed in at a time. 

You walk in and there are baked treats everywhere!

It was so hard making choices, 

Their breads are legendary , ranging from simple sourdough loaves to fruit and veggie infused breads. I had to buy their butter croissants which are just flaky , buttery crusts. Yum.

This was truly le roi - the king  -of croissants. Beautifully baked, airy , and with the right amount of layers. Then there was their shortbread - 

These were homemade and perfect. a smooth textured shortbread, perfect with their creamy, buttery flavor. These are excellent with a good hot cup of tea or coffee on a chilly fall night.

Keep in mind that, although this is a New Jersey store, the prices are typical Manhattan. Two croissants and a bag of shortbread was $16.00 which was a lot. Their Thanksgiving menu is equally expensive. An apple pie laced with Calvados is a whopping $42.50 Pumpkin pie with a gingerbread crust is slightly cheaper at $32.50. Even their stuffing mix is dear. A large bag is $20. Get the mixed dinner rolls that are $6 a dozen. The mix contains petite pain, multigrain, picholine olive and potato onion rolls. Still any of their baked good and goodies are worth the steep price.

Please visit the Balthazar Bakery outlet in ENglewood this holiday season You're sure to find the right dessert , bread or cookie for your table. They're all delcious. They're all perfect.

Treats From Traverse City

One of my wish vacation destinations is Michigan's Upper Peninsula. The northern part of the mitten is full of pristine beaches and charming towns. it also has the soil and climate for growing amazing and abundant cherry trees. One town, the picturesque Glen Arbor, is home to Cherry Republic - a store that sells everything cherry. I had to try it. I' love the fruit and its' addictive tart taste.

Cherry Republic was started in 1989 and has an entire range of cherry-centric foods . There's salsa and chocolates, jams jellies and cookies that have the yummy mix of chocolate and cherry. I had to buy their juice.

This is tart and fruity, with a cinnamon-y aftertaste.I mixed it with Bubly's cranberry seltzer for a refreshing and not too sweet drink. It was delicious - a nice change from the usual too sweet juices I usually drink. I can see this being mixed with Prosecco or vodka for a cool spin on classic cocktails. I also love the dispenser where you press down on the little orange paddles and the juice runs out. 

There is also their cherry jelly and dark chocolate cherries and nuts mix.

The jelly was delicious - not too sweet and perfect on the croissant. I plan on using it as crepe filling as well on brioche bread. The mix ii absolutely tasty Almonds, cashews and dried cherries

 are coated in a dense dark chocolate robe. These are the perfect sweet snack or even a dessert. I plan on buying their milk chocolate version along with their Boomchunka oatmeal-cherry cookies.

One day I will visit  Michigan's Upper Peninsula and my first stop with be Cherry Republic. I will have to try everything they have from salsa to jam.Between the beaches and it , will be the best vacation ever.

A Perfect Christmas Breakfast

One of the best things about Christmas morning is a cozy family breakfast together.  There;s nothing like sitting down and sharing a sumptuous and yummy special treat. A breakfast casserole is the perfect dish for this It has the best AM foods like bacon eggs and bread along with some other flavorful ingredients. It is the perfect start to a holy day and holiday.

Melissa Clark gave her recipe for it in her A Good Appetite column today's New York Times  Food section. It's similar to strata with a few tweaks..It's an easy bake for novice home chefs and a break from the usual holiday morning fare for more experienced cooks.There is a ratio of  one egg to one cup of dairy to a cup of cubed bread However there are so many variations, to try any one is a good combo. Start with the bread. As per Ms. Clark, the lighter the loaf, the more ethereal the casserole. A good choice is the airy French brioche, followed by the honey sweetened challah,good white bread (think straight from the bakery or Pepperidge Farm sandwich white) and a light whole wheat bread.Stay away from the ones that are too hearty, seedy or grainy, She uses toasted  croissants that have been oven toasted for only five to ten minutes.Try  to get good croissants if you can at this late date.. Au Bon Pain has the best but Dunkin Donuts and Stop and Shop have good ones too. Just remember that the staler it the the more the read will absorb the custard. Another way of having  crispy bread is toasting it in a very hot oven  (NO toasters ,please). This will dry it out and also give it a deep caramelized flavor.

This recipes calls for a lot of eggs, eight in all. Ms. Clark also suggests just using the yolks for a truly custardy texture, along with three cups of milk and one cup of heavy cream. You could also just add all milk or all cream however the combination of the two adds to the casserole's silkiness.A quarter of a pound of Italian sausage is added however you could also use maple infused breakfast ones , cubed ham or cooked bacon (or if you want all of them) . Gruyere is a must  and if you can get the smoked for the intense flavor. It's grated so it blends in perfectly into the dish. sauteed and roasted vegetables can be added too. Try spinach, mushrooms or cherry tomatoes. If you want potatoes, then serve them on the side as extra crispy hash browns or plank fries.I think they'd be a bit too much in this dish.Ms. Clark even recommends adding bits of dried fruit such as figs or apricots. Have the figs simmered in port or the apricots in white wine first to make them even more tastier.It's a nice shot of boozy sweetness amidst all the savory. The recipe does call for scallions and sage for flavoring, You could also sub in rosemary and oregano if you're tossing in the tomatoes and Italian sausage.Everything is place din a buttered casserole dish and baked the next morning.

Make this yummy and easy breakfast casserole Christmas morning. It's a nice treat after present opening and gift giving. It's warm and cozy , just like the holiday itself.

The Cronut Craze

Just when you thought the macaron craze was hot, here comes the cronut.This is one of those new pastry hybrids,part doughnut, part croissant. it is not only tasty , it's one of the hottest new treats out there.It;s taking the country and even the world by storm.

New York pastry chef, Domique Ansel, came up with this ingenious idea. He took croissant dough and shaped it like a doughnut.it is fried in grapeseed oil.The original ones are filled with a pastry cream, possibly Chantilly covered in sugar and then glazed.Chef Ansel gives his cronuts different flavors every month, August had coconut , while this month, September  features raspberry.The price is a very steep five dollars per pastry and there is even a pre order list. Other bakeries from Singapore to Berlin have copied Monsieur Ansel''s recipe adding different twists. There is a Little Italy bakery that stuffs them with cannoli filling and decorates them with candied orange and lemon twists/

One of my local bakeries, Janella's of Maywood NJ sells them and , of course,I had to try a couple. They are just as big as Chef Ansel's and have a type of Chantilly creme in the middle  as well as decorating the top. The dough was spongy , reminiscent of a St. Joseph's Day cream puff There was an ample amount of cream too but not that it would squish out all over the place.I liked it.It was tasty, and not as greasy as I thought it would be. I would love to try the one with the cannoli cream. Maybe Janella's will branch out possibly with this or maybe with a dark chocolate filled one.I'm sure Dunkin Donuts will come up with their version soon enough .

Cronuts are here to stay. They are a tasty and different addition to the pastry world. If you haven't then try them. Once eaten,  they will be a must have in your life

Chelsea's Hip Bakeries

Chelsea is now one of New York City's hottest and hippest neighborhood. This is where you cool restaurants and shops along with the celebs and stars that shop there. The area also boasts a wide array of bakeries as well. Two of the most famous is Billy's and Blossoms.. These provide both tourists and locals with a wide array of cakes, cookies, and that still trendy treat, the cupcakes.

Billy's Bakery located on Ninth Ave , between 21st and 22nd Street, It also has locations in again the still popular Tribeca as well as The Plaza Food Hall near midtown. The bakery supposed was started by two friends however there is also the understory that the bakery was started by the famed Magnolia's bakery's workers who stole that bakery's most famous recipes. Whatever is the real story, the cakes and cookies are heavenly . Their mini cheesecakes are packed with flavor. The chocolate one is full of dense rich, crumbs while the texture is super creamy. The cakes all have a homemade from the Fifties taste and look. The cookie sandwiches. filled with homemade butter cream are to die for and a local favorite.

A few doors down is Blossom, a bakery with a twist. All their products are made without butter , eggs and milk. It's a division of the famed Blossom Vegan Restaurant (which is right across the street from the bakery)Unlike Billy';s they offer savory treats such as the Breton version of the croissant Koiugn Amann- a fine feat to pull off because regular ones are laced with butter.Their cakes are varied, as are their cupcakes. The vanilla ones are the best,It's a dense old fashioned cake made with a buttery blob of icing on top. The chocolate ones are intense and really don't need the frosting. However the best is Blossom's biscotti. These are not the traditional cylinder shaped ones but large spread out almond cookies that resemble oatmeal cookies. These are a mix of almond and crunch  = sheer perfect in every  bite.

Whether you love in trendy Chelsea or just visiting stop by either Billy's or Blossom for a cupcake and a coffee. Both have different world views and recipes yet a common thread  to make the best baked goods. Their goal has been met . Go to either or both for a satisfying bite of sweetness.