The Kwanzaa Feast

 Kwanzaa is a relatively new holiday yet it's packed with centuries of tradition. It centers around seven principles  such as faith and  purpose that should be practiced year round. with this holiday comes the rich tradition of food. Families are celebrating and cooking at home. Their tables will be filled with good food and good deeds.

Nicole Taylor , chef and author of The Up South Cookbook interviewed five families around the country for today's New York Times Food section. The holiday starts Saturday , December 26th with families eating and free thinking. The holiday itself began in Los Angeles in 1966 by Maulana Karenga, an African American professor who taught African-American studies. Dishes are plentiful and some include slow cooked meatless collard greens Trinidadian grilled fish and bread puddings. The special meal, karamu is held on the day ,kuumba dedicated to creativity. For the Orr-Frasier family of Portland ,Oregon, the meal will be a nod to parents, Rashad and Keita  North Carolingian roots. There will be jelly cakes along with pineapple upside down and red velvet ones. His recipe for coffee rubbed branzino is also featured, highlighted with a rub of medium ground coffee,onion and garlic powders and cumin. There's also brown sugar to even out the spiciness and then it's grilled for five to six minutes on each side.

Folami Prescott-Adams, of Atlanta Georgia gave her BBQ tofu recipe which are slabs of tofu slathered in a mix of melted butter, tamari and barbecue sauces. They're broiled for a couple of minutes in the broiler for a crisp on the outside , tender on the inside main course. Ms. Prescott-Adams cooks ten(!) pounds of it along with nut based meatballs and a vegan Southern stringbean recipe. For Maati Keprimeni Angaza  it will be vegan foods in her Brooklyn apartment. The young dancer will have curry potatoes and black eyed peas along with her step-mother's bread pudding rife with sweet potatoes and raisins. In Richmond Virginia, Janice Bell will have her grandparents recipes of sweet potatoes and corn pudding. she is a pescatarian so there will be fish on her table. Sisters Kerry Coddett and Krystal Stark Kwanzza will be vegan pancakes, shrimp and a mushroom lasagna(made with homemade vegan ricotta) shared with their younger brother. They'll also take out from Sugarcane with such dishes as callaloo, roti and plantain. They will also drink champagne too.

Kwanzaa is a time of thought and creativity. It's also a time of food. The holiday will be different this year but the food will be homemade .

The Fake Egg Baking Experiment

 Vegan bakers used to have it hard. The very basics of baking involve such animal products as eggs, butter and milk. It was a hit or miss trying to sub in such diverse ingredients as white vinegar or apple sauce . Now there are various subs that actually work.

I decided to use one. Vegg Uncaged Baking Mix. Only one teaspoon mixed with a quarter teaspoon of white granulated sugar and a quarter of a cup of cold water equal one egg. I decided to try it with the Betty Crocker Sugar Cookie Mix (which has been sitting in my kitchen for a year - don't worry I checked it is safe to use).

The dough was relatively the same as it would have been with real eggs. Vegg Uncaged is made with nutritional yeast which may be responsible for the cookies lift and flavor.

it was mixed with a stick of I Can't Believe It's Not Butter, long a staple in both my cooking and baking arsenal. 

I made the biggest size cookies, which was a tablespoon size scoop.

They took a little longer to bake in a 375 degree F oven. I don't know if it was because of the Vegg or the cookies' size.

The flavor and texture were the same as the ones made with eggs.. The mix's age didn't affect it nor did the Vegg.

They were chewy and buttery, the perfect Christmas cookie with tea or hot cocoa.

Vegan bakers should take advantage of Vegg Uncaged Mix. It works for baking, giving anything from cookies to cakes that eggy flavor and lift. Try it  today for all your holiday baking and for all  those baking days afterwards.

A Good Vegan Cookbook

 A good vegan cookbook is just the thing for those longing for a dietary change in the New Year. Luckily there's a new cookbook that can make meatless, eggless and dairyless eating a snap. It's the perfect Christmas gift for those who want a healthier lifestyle.

The Complete Plant Based Cookbook :500 Inspired, Flexible Recipes for Eating Well Without Meat  ( America's Test Kitchen Publishers 2020) written by the experts at America's Test Kitchen. This is a must have for vegans, vegetarians and those seriously thinking about embracing the meatless lifestyle. This is chock full of advice. The first chapter is a plant based primer with tips on how to store fruits and veggies along with what to do about preserving any ingredient's unami, that special oomph of of flavor. There are pages dedicated to the veg-centric plate and the importance of aqua faba - that all important and versatile chickpea brine or water. The books also shows how to make a vegan meal more filling, usually with the addition of grains and good crusty bread.There are recipe suggestions about pasta dishes and grain dishes. There are also recipes for what's known as building block recipes such as vegetable broth , fish sauce substitute along with creating home versions of rice, soy , almond and oat milk. Vegan home chefs will also love the aquafaba mayo and cashew ricotta. There is also a basic almond milk yogurt, perfect on its' own or mixed with fruit. Some  basics can even be made ina slow cooker like the vegetable broth. Those with celiac allergies will appreciate the section on gluten free dishes. Do the chefs approve of the whole Impossible Meat or Beyond Beef movement? Yes. They even show you how to cook the perfect burger

The recipes are great , with the chapters being divided into eleven chapters.Every kind of dish is represented here, from brunch to pizza to main courses and even dairy  and egg free desserts.Breakfast lovers will enjoy the millet porridge with maple syrup or the hash browns omelet with kimchi, Soups and salads are well represented here too, Chickpea Salad sandwiches are the perfect lunch full of tang and textures thanks to the beans with the addition of scallions and celery.A fiery Caribbean style Swiss chard and butternut squash stew is the perfect winter lunch or dinner bowl. warmer days will warrant the Summer Vegetable Gratin a casserole of different squashes onions and tomatoes, baked with breadcrumbs and olive oil. There's international dishes of cauliflower biryani and vegetable fried rice. There are also fun dishes like Thin Crust Pizza with Mushrooms and Cashew Ricotta and plant based meat Beef Tacos.Bean lovers will enjoy the many bean recipes like red beans and rice with okra and tomatoes. Dessert lovers will enjoy the richly flavorful peach crumble with the crumble enriched with coconut oil (although you can also try I Can't Believe It's Not Butter) and the Chocolate  Espresso tart made with water based ganache instead of a cream one. There's a yummy recipe for Coconut Ice Cream too and semolina pudding with almonds and dates.

The Complete  Plant Based Cookbook 500 Inspired Flexible Recipes For Eating Well Without Meat is the perfect vegan and vegetarian cookbook. it has a plethora of recipes that are delicious and filling. It's a good addition to any home chef's library.

Try A New Cooking Tradition This Christmas

 This Christmas do something different. break away from your usual recipes and try something new. It's a fun way to experiment since it'll be just your family. Go wild. Have fun.

If you're used to traditional American fare, then think of other cuisines. If the family loves sushi, then why not make different rolls for the family to enjoy. All you really need is a sushi mat a small woven mat that you roll the rice and seaweed. Fill with such favorites as tuna , and crab adding in sliced carrots and avocados. . If you want you can add some tempura. The batter is easy to make.It's a simple mix of cornstarch and flour mixed with beaten egg and seltzer. Most of the time tempura is vegetables, but you can also dip shrimp in the batter and fry it the traditional way or in an air fryer. Be very festive and serve warmed saki as the drink.Thinking about something hot and spicy to warm up? Indian food is a great idea. Choose recipes from Diwali , the Festival of Lights. or Holi , the Spring festival. Try a pork Vindaloo a mix of stir  fried pork cubes zinged up with a masala paste, along with ginger, chilis and coriander paste. Another holiday special is biryani, lamb spiced with onion and garlic along with ginger. Yogurt is added for a creamy texture. Serve with warmed and crisp naan . What would you drink with this? Indian wine, which comes from various wineries around the Subcontinent.

If you have Northern European heritage, then go with Southern European dishes and vice versa. Southern Italian both here and in Italy fill their holiday tables with platter of homemade ravioli and lasagna. The kids would definitely appreciate a Christmas dinner like this. The North of Italy gives a much more complex cooking experience (It is where French cuisine originated). Try Vitello or veal in tuna sauce or a braised veal dish with various greens.Another dish is anchovies with the traditional salsa verde. On the other side is northern Europe with Germany which is really the birthplace of Christmas traditions.A hearty and delicious dish is sauerbraten , rump roast marinated with a blend of red wine, vinegar bay leaves and gingersnap cookies (yes!) along with sugar and peppercorns. Serve with the famed dumplings kartoffel  kloessen, made with russet potatoes and croutons or gingersnaps inside.  You could also have air fried bratwurst with sauerkraut for a more informal holiday meal. Scandinavian Christmas meals are often lush affairs. Think roast pork or roast duck served with red cabbage and brown sugar potatoes.

Break away from tradition this Christmas. Try an entirely different cuisine for the family. It'll not only be fun but delicious too.

Non Cookie Christmas Desserts

 Cookies have always been a staple of the Christmas table. Yet a plate of them may not be that satisfying  as a holiday dessert.There's something about a trifle or a Yule log that's perfect after a turkey or a ham. A bowl or slice is the perfect sweet ending to a festive.

Yotam Ottolenghi and Melissa Clark gave some interesting recipes in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. Chef Ottolenghi is well known for his sweet treats and even  has written a book Sweet about baking. He offers his riff on the classic Buche de Noel,  a brown sugar roulade with burnt honey apples. The roulade is a kind of brown sugar based meringue, spiked with cinnamon. The apple filling consists of a thick almost caramel like cooked honey spiked with bay leaves and cinnamon. The honey is cooked until almost burnt. Braeburn apples and olive oil are added to this syrup and then put in a very hot 425 degree F oven for twenty minutes. It's layered with a cream that's part marscapone and part cold whipping cream. Confectioners sugar melds the two together.Orange zest gives it some zing.It's then layering the three components and rolling the roulade with a tea towel. with the longest part towards you. Reserve any liquids from the apples for another project. You don't want it soggy. The roll is decorated with bay leaves, vanilla pods and cinnamon sticks.

If this is too complicated, then try trifle. Melissa Clark gives a classic one with berries or oranges. It's an easy mix of store bought cake as a base, fruit and cream. As for the cake, lady fingers or boudoir biscuits are preferred but sponge cake also can be used. Panetone or pound cake also make a good base.for the fruit think something relatively tart to offset all that sweetness. Strawberries are a good choice but so are blackberries. Oranges are also good.The fruit and biscuits are then covered with a homemade egg custard (if you're pressed for time, instant vanilla pudding will do) .It's rich with whole cream and milk and flavored with orange or lemon zest. The fruit has to be prepared too,The berries have to be macerated in sugar while the oranges need to be supremed. This is cutting the ends off the fruit , squeezing the juices out of the severed pieces. It's then cutting the peel and pith , letting the juices run into a bowl. slice the fruit away from the membrane . Add sugar. To assemble the trifle, spread the jam on the lady fingers, putting them jam side down in the trifle dish. Then sprinkle whatever boozy liquid, whether it's brandy or sherry , Madeira or any dessert wine. spoon the fruit on top of this and top with custard. Put in the fridge for three to twenty-four hours. The last step is topping with homemade whipped cream and serve.

Cookies are delicious but a true holiday meal deserves a true holiday dessert. Think a variation of trifle or Buche de Noel. They're a festive way to end a Christmas dinner.

The Stalwart Reviewer

This year is the year when most ninety somethings sat indoors and either put puzzles together or learned how to Zoom with family. Not so much with ninety-four year old Marilyn Hagerty. She still reviewed restaurants in her native North Dakota. She's an inspiration for foodies of all ages.

Restaurant reviewer and regular contributor Pete Wells wrote about this remarkable woman in yesterday's New York Times food section. Ms. Hagerty first got into the business by writing about the first Olive Garden to open in her town of Grand Forks. She had been already been retired for two decades when she started to write again. She is still covering local restaurants which intrigued Mr. Wells whose job has been severely curtailed thanks to the pandemic. North Dakota, especially Grand Forks has very few people, despite the fact that the city does have something of a cosmopolitan air about it. It's directly south of Winnipeg Canada and north west of Minneapolis. There are art museums that feature dali and Picasso along with a big outdoor activity scene. Yet it's not New York with the city's myriad choices of eateries. You would think her career would die. it didn't.

Yet , unlike Mr. Wells, Ms. Hagerty renews chain restaurants , her favorite seems to be The Olive Garden. She's reviewed it several times, even when she had to take out  shrimp scampi, another favorite. from her local one. There is also the local Ramada Inn where she reviews the bar's food. There are also critiques of local  Thai, Vietnamese and Somali restaurants. There's another factor . The nonagenarian uses factual data instead of her own tastes which is a refreshing departure from decades of either sharp criticism or rapturous praise. It got the attention of Anderson Cooper who had her on his show twice. it also has given her a legion of fans too.  She also writes about little random items and events for the paper that her late husband, Jack was the editor. (their son is an obituary writer at the Wall Street Journal).Whatever catches her eye gets a mention. Even in her self imposed isolation there has been a dearth of things to write about such as the search for smaller Thanksgiving turkeys along with the adaptations for pandemic safety made at the University of North Dakota along the rush for chippers, chocolate coated potato chips.

Marilyn Hagerty is a unique restaurant reviewer  for many reasons. She has outlasted this pandemic and will probably be visiting restaurants  afterwards. She is truly an inspiration to all food critics across the globe.

The Legend Of James Beard

 James Beard was a giant in American cooking, influencing the cuisine in the last century. A new biography on him is out and it delves into the dark corners of his life.  Yet despite it all, his recipes and legacy still endure.

Julia Moskin gave an interesting article on this American master in today's New York Times Food section. Beard is the subject of a new book The Man Who Ate Too Much by John Birdsall. James Beard was a visionary, creating such dishes as a full charcuterie platter long before the Instagram and Pinterest crowds claimed it for their own. Yet not many home chefs use his recipes nor do they know of his enormous body of work. Ms Moskin is familiar with him because her mother both cooked from Beard's and the other great American's cook, Julia Child's cookbooks. Mr. Beard handled the everyday recipes like potpies, potato salad, bean soup and cornbread. However he was visionary with what he made. He was the first to write about sliders and sunchokes,scallion tarts and roasted figs with prosciutto. He also included such international dishes as ceviche, Syrian lentil soup with swiss chard, menudo and basil pesto, the last a radically raw and shocking flavorful sauce not yet embraced by all of America. All modern chefs owe their repertoire to Beard who embraced all aspects of the immigrant melting pot that is American cuisine. He accepted them as Seventies home chefs bought Moroccan tangines , Indian spice blends and Japanese pottery.

Yet , according to his biographer, Mr. Birdsall , it was not all great. He was the only child of Elizabeth Beard, famed for her cooking at the elegant boarding house she ran in Gladstone,Oregon near Portland. He grew up eating Chinese food thanks to Jue Let, a master chef from Guangdong, China who worked for his mother.. He fed Beard congee , steamed salt fish and lychees and both him and Beard's mother gave the young chef to be a good background for food. Yet his mother was not attentive  and more impatient with him. She never accepted or understood his "difference" - his homosexuality. His father was often missing from the scene. Beard was expelled from his college  Reed College in Portland for being caught with a male professor. Later on he was despondent about his weight 350 pounds for a 6'3"  tall man. In later years, he suffered from edema and had to wear stockings. Other health problems plagued him. However he did find happiness later years with his partner Gino Cofacci in Greenwich Village. They had parties and barbecues where he ruled. Ms. Moskin includes his Farmer's Chicken recipe , sauteed chicken with onions and peppers, flavored with red wine , raisins and olives along with paprika and oregano. It's served with toasted almonds , rice or garlic rubbed bread.

James Beard was a driving force in American cuisine. This new biography should pique interest in his recipes and life. It's time for a new generation to discover his philosophy and food.