Dishes For Fall Part One

 Autumn will be here in a week. The temperatures should be dropping and we should go from easy cooking to more complex recipes. Luckily the New York Times Food section online has some good ideas to kickstart the season. They'll be even great to make and bake well into the holidays.

The offerings are varied. There are main dishes and desserts, each interesting and flavorful. Tejal Rao gives us a really intriguing one - warm tofu and fresh soy beans cooked in salted French butter with a celery seed gastrique. This last is a savory caramel (!) sauce that's punched up with apple cider and chili flakes. This may be labor intensive because the soft tofu is made from homemade soy milk. A less intensive dish is Eric Kim's Ritzy cheddar chicken breasts.. This is mixing crumbled Ritz crackers with sharp cheddar shreds and garlic and onion powders coating sour cream marinated chicken breasts. This seems like a fun dish with homemade fries on a Friday or Saturday night. There's also a buttermilk brined chicken from chef Samin Nosrat that has  just three ingredients, the chicken, buttermilk and salt. It's the perfect Sunday dinner  complete with mashed potatoes and mixed veggies.It's not listed but yesterday's Food section featured an easy but filling pasta recipe from Yotam Ottolenghi. This is a simple but filling blend of any kind of pasta mixed with white beans and pesto. Add anchovies for kick or pancetta for mellowness. You could also sub in kale or spinach for the basil.

Another simple but filling dish is a Dijon and cognac beef stew by Regina Schrambling.It was first published in The Times after 9/11. It was comforting then and is comforting now when being with family is important. Beef chuck is mixed with salt pork along with carrots and mushrooms. Two kinds of mustard are added, Dijon and Pommery mustard. The half cup of Cognac pulls everything together. Another comfort food is the pressure cooker chicken with dumplings. Melissa Clark created this yummy mix of drumsticks and thighs - dark meat and dumplings made from a mix of all purpose flour and cornmeal. Chives give them zing. They're cooked in the broth the chicken is cooking in. You can add peas for color and more flavor. Another comforting dish is a savory mushroom bread pudding. This is Susan Spungen's take that has buttery brioche torn and cooked up with porcini mushrooms along with such fresh ones as cremini or shiitake. There are also leeks added for more flavor and six eggs give it a custardy feel. This is a great holiday side but also the perfect vegetarian dish too.

Fall is fast approaching. It's time to delve into more complex recipes for heartier fare.Use these recipes to jump into autumn cooking.

The Stretchable Pantry

 One thing the pandemic has taught us is that our pantries are expandable. We can make do with a little if need be. We can be creative with a can of beans or a box of pasta. There's no need for long , elaborate lists.

 Famed chef and cookbook author Yotam Ottolenghi wrote about this in today's New York Times Food section. He too has changed his shopping and cooking habits thanks to the shutdowns in his hometown of London. His philosophy is  it's OK to use what you have on hand. it doesn't matter if you have the wrong herbs. Use something similar.  Don't despair if you don't have certain kind of pasta needed for a recipe. Rifle through your pantry and see if there's a similar fit. As options become more limited, then become more resourceful and creative. With this , Chef Ottolenghi gives a tasty recipe for fried tagliatelle with chickpeas and smoky tomatoes. Home chefs don't have to follow this to a tee. You can use other "nested" pastas like fettucini or pappardelle. The sauce is a smoky tomato oil. Play around with it. Add different chilis and spices instead of the ones he recommends.Try cumin instead of sweet paprika, Do't worry if there's no parsley. The dish will taste just as good without it.

His recipe is a good one, perfect for now or months from now when hopefully we go to a new normal. The star of the recipe is the smoky oil sauce. This is datterini or cherry tomatoes charred and then cooked with olive oil and tomato paste. Chipotle chili flakes and sweet paprika bring the fire and heat. It's all cooked for fifteen minutes and then the tagliatelle nests are added. These are basically fried on both sides until golden, namely about two to two and a half minutes.. It's then setting them aside and rinsing out the pan (save the oil). Boil the  soaked chickpeas in a mix of water and baking soda, skimming the scum off the surface as needed. Cook them for fifteen more minutes on a medium low heat after boiling. Cover them.  They should be sift in texture yet retaining their shape. It's then nestling in garlic and the tagliatelli nests. Cook until the pasta is tender and all the liquid has been absorbed. Squeeze juice from freshly squeezed lemons over this and then spoon the oil. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges.

Panties and how we cook is changing thanks to the pandemic. It's more of using what's in the pantry instead of what's not. Be creative. Be resourceful and you can still come up with delicious dishes.

Non Cookie Christmas Desserts

 Cookies have always been a staple of the Christmas table. Yet a plate of them may not be that satisfying  as a holiday dessert.There's something about a trifle or a Yule log that's perfect after a turkey or a ham. A bowl or slice is the perfect sweet ending to a festive.

Yotam Ottolenghi and Melissa Clark gave some interesting recipes in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. Chef Ottolenghi is well known for his sweet treats and even  has written a book Sweet about baking. He offers his riff on the classic Buche de Noel,  a brown sugar roulade with burnt honey apples. The roulade is a kind of brown sugar based meringue, spiked with cinnamon. The apple filling consists of a thick almost caramel like cooked honey spiked with bay leaves and cinnamon. The honey is cooked until almost burnt. Braeburn apples and olive oil are added to this syrup and then put in a very hot 425 degree F oven for twenty minutes. It's layered with a cream that's part marscapone and part cold whipping cream. Confectioners sugar melds the two together.Orange zest gives it some zing.It's then layering the three components and rolling the roulade with a tea towel. with the longest part towards you. Reserve any liquids from the apples for another project. You don't want it soggy. The roll is decorated with bay leaves, vanilla pods and cinnamon sticks.

If this is too complicated, then try trifle. Melissa Clark gives a classic one with berries or oranges. It's an easy mix of store bought cake as a base, fruit and cream. As for the cake, lady fingers or boudoir biscuits are preferred but sponge cake also can be used. Panetone or pound cake also make a good base.for the fruit think something relatively tart to offset all that sweetness. Strawberries are a good choice but so are blackberries. Oranges are also good.The fruit and biscuits are then covered with a homemade egg custard (if you're pressed for time, instant vanilla pudding will do) .It's rich with whole cream and milk and flavored with orange or lemon zest. The fruit has to be prepared too,The berries have to be macerated in sugar while the oranges need to be supremed. This is cutting the ends off the fruit , squeezing the juices out of the severed pieces. It's then cutting the peel and pith , letting the juices run into a bowl. slice the fruit away from the membrane . Add sugar. To assemble the trifle, spread the jam on the lady fingers, putting them jam side down in the trifle dish. Then sprinkle whatever boozy liquid, whether it's brandy or sherry , Madeira or any dessert wine. spoon the fruit on top of this and top with custard. Put in the fridge for three to twenty-four hours. The last step is topping with homemade whipped cream and serve.

Cookies are delicious but a true holiday meal deserves a true holiday dessert. Think a variation of trifle or Buche de Noel. They're a festive way to end a Christmas dinner.

Hearty And Hot Meals

This is the type of weather that requires calorie rich meals to keep you warm. There's something about a soup or pasta that's not only comforting but also fortifying . What's great is when they're homemade with familiar ingredients.

Melissa Clark , and Yotam Ottolenghi know this and made  soup and one pot pastas the theme of their columns in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Ms. Clark devoted her A Good Appetite to lentil soup. This is an easy cook, as most soups are.It's minimal and straightforward yet complex with addition of rosemary and garlic. Onions are  first cooked in olive oil in a medium pot. It's then taking any kind of stock, chicken, beef or vegetable along with the lentils and thyme to simmer. The fun part is pureeing it all with an immersion blender until the desired consistency. It can be thick and chunky or thin and satiny. Another fun part is topping it. Ms. Clark  suggests radicchio tossed with some olive oil and parsley.However if greens aren't your thing, then crumble bacon on top. A dollop or sour cream or Greek yogurt would work well. Into crunch? Then try toasted pumpkin seeds, dried seaweed or anything crisp. You can also have browned veggies such as browned leeks or onions. It can be good just left unadorned, with slices of toasty Italian bread and a small green salad on the side.

Another cold weather must eat is Yotam Ottolenghi's one pot wonder dishes. These are recipes that use a roasting pan in a whole new light. His may not be the easiest to make, Chef Ottolenghi wants to create flavor and texture bombs that add components in different stages.It's playing with temperatures, or scattering a garnish or a salsa at the end to liven it up. The recipe is a one pan pasta with harissa bolognese. This combines both North African and classic Italian. Harissa is a combination of tomato paste married to a variety of spices such as cumin, caraway, coriander and hot chiles, It will give the dish a more arrabiata vibe.Chef Ottolenghi adds more cumin and coriander for a really intense taste. Onion, tomatoes, and carrots are blitzed in a food processor and added to the meat , Pecorino Romano  and Parmesan cheeses harissa and tomato paste. The oven is first set at a scorching 475 degrees F for the meat and then it's dropped to 375 F after the first twenty-five minutes.It's then breaking the meat apart with a spoon and adding both chicken broth and heavy cream. The pasta is added. This is coarsely chopped manicotti or canneloni. Push as much pasta as you can under the surface and bake twenty five minutes more , until the pasta is tender. Stir in parsley and  more Parmesan and Pecorino Romano until the top is crisp about eight minutes more.

These frigid times demand hearty and hot dishes. Warm up with a fragrant lentil soup or a spicy harissa pasta bake. They are perfect for chasing away the effects of this polar vortex.

A "Sweet" Taste of Cake

If you want a perfectly made cake look no further than Yotam  Ottolenghi. This famed British chef and baker can create the ideal one, rich with flavor and moist with texture. Now fans and home bakers can whip up exact copies, thanks to his and Helen Goh's new recipe book, Sweet  based solely on treats from the oven.

Chef Ottolenghi and fellow baker, Australian , Helen Goh, give the world their best recipes. Chef Ottolenghi wrote about  two of them in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He and Ms. Goh have been together as fellow bakers and partners since 2006. She started in the savory side of Ottolenghi's vast food empire and later graduated to the sweet side.It was at this point that he recognized that saw his own restlessness and insatiable drive for perfection. They made the perfect team.  They share a passion for precise measuring and timing along with weighing the right amounts to create the perfect sweet. She also brings her Australian and Malaysian heritage to the table as well. The site sells the famed Aussie cookie yo-yos, a crunchy sandwich cookie filled with  passion fruit buttercream while the pastry shop offers  billowy powder puff cakes and her famed chocolate one that an Australian newspaper once called the "world' best" Her Malaysian influence is seen in Chef Ottolenghi's bakery , especially in her chiffon cakes and pandain infused pineapple tarts. She has also brought her cupcakes, scones madeleines and cheesecakes too, that also features cakes from his childhood..

Chef Ottolenghi and Ms. Goh gave two of their recipes from the new book. One is that famous chocolate cake, the other is a pistachio and rose water semolina one.The chocolate one is deep in flavor and rich,It is also a buttery one, using a cup plus one and a half tablespoons of the unsalted kind.To offset the cocoa's intensity,  a teaspoon and a half of instant coffee granules.As for the chocolate itself, both dark chocolate pieces and a half cup of Dutch processed cocoa. The flavor is magnified by the addition of a choice of icings. -a rich  chocolate ganache or an espresso cinnamon marscapone topping. If this is too intense there is pistachio and rose water semolina cake, This relies on pistachio and cardamon for a mellow blend of taste along with almond meal. There is a lot of butter needed too, namely a cup of it plus one tablespoon. That and four large eggs create the golden crumb.It can be served plain with just rose water syrup drizzled on top but it can be made lusher with a rose cream made with both creme fraiche and Greek yogurt. More rose water and confectioners sugar sweeten it. The cake is decorated with candied rose petals,easy to make just pesticide free rose petals, egg whites and granulated sugar.

Chef Ottolenghi and Ms Goh have created the ultimate baking  cookbook. The recipes are richly satisfying. Get it and bake!

Berry Time

One of the best things about summer is that it's berry season. These rich colored gems are perfect in everything from cakes to ice cream, from pies to tortes. They add snap and sweetness , livening up any recipe.

Famed chef and pastry chef , Yotam Ottolenghi wrote about them in today's New York Times Food section. He only discovered them when he was a young man and cycling through the Netherlands and Belgium to Paris. He did have fruit growing up, mostly from trees. namely figs,  pomegranates, lemons and dates, but berries growing on low to the ground bushes were a novelty to him. His interest was piqued by famed chef Rowley Leigh. Chef Leigh did with berries what Middle Eastern chefs do with herbs - use them in absolute abundance,They need to be the building blocks of the recipe.Chef Ottolenghi's own recipes  include berry infused icings and butter creams. he studs them in cakes and tarts, mixing them with those fruits of his childhood. Lemon is probably one of the best partners for berries, as its'tartness and simplicity  marries the sweetness and layered complexity of any berry.

This is obvious in the his recipes. There is a blueberry, almond and lemon cake, perfect for any summer get together, from birthday to barbecue. He combines a cup and a half of fresh blueberries with both lemon juice and lemon zest. Lemon glaze finishes it off, so the cake, which is more of a pound, is not overwhelming with the taste of blueberries. Almonds also temper this , in the form of flour. His other recipe also marries nuts and berries. This time he uses pistachios and raspberries.The crust also has a taste of lemon to it, along with white wine vinegar. The filling combines a heaping cup of raspberries with two and a half cups of raw, shelled pistachios. He roasts and mashes these , until they're almost like a nut  butter. Eggs are then added for body and then it's placed in  the pastry shell. The raspberries are then sprinkled over the filling and baked.It comes out kind of like pistachio marzipan

Take advantage of berry season. Use those ripe. rich gems in such treats as tarts and cakes. Enjoy their,earthy sweet, flavor..