Showing posts with label roulade. Show all posts
Showing posts with label roulade. Show all posts

Friday, December 18, 2020

Non Cookie Christmas Desserts

 Cookies have always been a staple of the Christmas table. Yet a plate of them may not be that satisfying  as a holiday dessert.There's something about a trifle or a Yule log that's perfect after a turkey or a ham. A bowl or slice is the perfect sweet ending to a festive.

Yotam Ottolenghi and Melissa Clark gave some interesting recipes in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. Chef Ottolenghi is well known for his sweet treats and even  has written a book Sweet about baking. He offers his riff on the classic Buche de Noel,  a brown sugar roulade with burnt honey apples. The roulade is a kind of brown sugar based meringue, spiked with cinnamon. The apple filling consists of a thick almost caramel like cooked honey spiked with bay leaves and cinnamon. The honey is cooked until almost burnt. Braeburn apples and olive oil are added to this syrup and then put in a very hot 425 degree F oven for twenty minutes. It's layered with a cream that's part marscapone and part cold whipping cream. Confectioners sugar melds the two together.Orange zest gives it some zing.It's then layering the three components and rolling the roulade with a tea towel. with the longest part towards you. Reserve any liquids from the apples for another project. You don't want it soggy. The roll is decorated with bay leaves, vanilla pods and cinnamon sticks.

If this is too complicated, then try trifle. Melissa Clark gives a classic one with berries or oranges. It's an easy mix of store bought cake as a base, fruit and cream. As for the cake, lady fingers or boudoir biscuits are preferred but sponge cake also can be used. Panetone or pound cake also make a good base.for the fruit think something relatively tart to offset all that sweetness. Strawberries are a good choice but so are blackberries. Oranges are also good.The fruit and biscuits are then covered with a homemade egg custard (if you're pressed for time, instant vanilla pudding will do) .It's rich with whole cream and milk and flavored with orange or lemon zest. The fruit has to be prepared too,The berries have to be macerated in sugar while the oranges need to be supremed. This is cutting the ends off the fruit , squeezing the juices out of the severed pieces. It's then cutting the peel and pith , letting the juices run into a bowl. slice the fruit away from the membrane . Add sugar. To assemble the trifle, spread the jam on the lady fingers, putting them jam side down in the trifle dish. Then sprinkle whatever boozy liquid, whether it's brandy or sherry , Madeira or any dessert wine. spoon the fruit on top of this and top with custard. Put in the fridge for three to twenty-four hours. The last step is topping with homemade whipped cream and serve.

Cookies are delicious but a true holiday meal deserves a true holiday dessert. Think a variation of trifle or Buche de Noel. They're a festive way to end a Christmas dinner.

Friday, September 29, 2017

Can You Rival A Great Baker?

One of the best aspects of The Great British Baking Show is that it introduces American home bakers to a plethora of British  and European treats. It would be the ultimate project to create an elaborate baked good. Can it be done?

American bakers - including myself - have a tendency to rely on boxed mixes. These can be varied to create new cakes and desserts yet there's limited creativity. True bakers will nix the Pilsbury and Duncan Hines (as if we lesser ones  would) and use flour and baking soda, eggs and butter along with milk and molasses.The Great British Baking Show and its' American spin offs have challenges that require old fashioned ingredients and creative thinking. Anyone can recreate the recipes.There's an entire franchise of "Great British Baking Show" cookbooks out there along with recipe books from former judge Mary Berry and current Paul Hollywood. There are even specialized ones that focuses only on breads, sweet buns and trifles in separate books. These are perfect for home bakers wanting to break the mold. These are more labor intensive than some of our ones. Spices have to be ground. Sometimes there's proofing  in a low temperature oven. Elaborate cookies require handmade molds.It's not for the faint hearted.

There is a sense of exhilaration and triumph however when a bake is done. Imagine creating Series 7 winner  Candice Brown's Tudor showstopper, a marzipan peacock.It was an elaborately decorated cake , with the surprise of fresh blueberries in the middle. Or creating Mary 's technical challenge of a Victoria sponge , a lovely end to a Sunday brunch. How much more fun would the holidays be with Paul's Tudor technical challenge of  elaborately knotted Jumbles , zinged up with freshly ground mace and aniseed, along with caraway seeds. If these may be too much start off with some of the contestant's recipes. These are still complicated, but a bit easier to make. There is a tasty pina Colada rolled cake, which is laden with coconut mascarpone ,pineapples and coconut rum. For a savory spin, and perfect weekend lunch , try baking the croque Monsieur kites. This is intense, because the puff pastry has to be hand made (no Pepperidge Farm here) and stuffed with  cheeses such as Gruyere and Emmenthal as well as pancetta and mushrooms.It's also creating your own porcini powder with  grinding the mushroom .it also requires a dough mixer with a hook and creating a scratch Bechamel sauce.

The Great British Bake Show is an entertaining foray into intense  baking. American home bakers can break free of their cookie cutter bakes and try some of the elaborate sweet and savory recipes. It'll expand the repertoire along with filling the kitchen with yummy treats.