The Legacy Of Frybread

 Indigenous frybread has an interesting legacy. Many Native American families love it and have their own recipes. Yet it does have a controversial and sad past of how it came into being. It represents comfort and sadness, sweetness and bitterness..

Kevin Noble Maillard, a law professor at Syracuse University wrote this fascinating piece in yesterday's New York Times Food section along with being a regular contributor to the newspaper. He is an expert on the subject , belonging to the Seminole Tribe in Oklahoma along with writing the children's book Fry Bread : A Native American Family Story. Every tribal family has a fry bread recipe.it was originally created by the Navajo or Dine tribe.It originated 154 years ago when the US government forced Indians in Arizona to make a three hundred mile walk known as "The Long Walk". They had to relocate to New Mexico where they couldn't easily grow the beans and vegetables needed for their recipes. Native cooks had to adapt using government rationed commodities of powdered, preserved and dry goods. It is a painful reminder of how they were treated yet it became a staple at powwows, family dinners and events. The recipe is a basic one. It's a mix of  flour salt baking powder and oil. Water is the only liquid used to make the dough moist. It's similar to the Mexican sopapilla which is the sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar.

The recipe has been shared by tribal members but it varies from family to family.Ramona Horsechief of the Pawnee Tribe and seven time winner of the National Indian Taco Championship of Pawhuska Oklahoma grows Pawnee blue corn in her garden and mills the flour for a sweeter , denser frybread. Le Etta Osborne-Sampson of the Seminole Nation of Oklahoma uses her grandmother's recipe which has sugar in it. The making of frybread is matriarchal as well. Hope Peshlakai was taught as a child by her grandmother and even follows her grandmother's habit of storing her cast iron skillet in her oven. She also had to deal with her husbands aunts who wanted to see her recipe for the bread. Ms. Horsechief uses her grandmother's 125 year old bread poker which is used to flip the bread.Mr. Maillard includes his recipe, undoubtedly a family one  which is easy to make up. He adds sea salt and raw sugar and uses coconut oil for frying for a healthier alternative.It needs to rise for three hours before frying and then fry to the desired color. It could be a light gold to a deep brown depending on how crispy you want it.

Fry bread is a comfort food with a history. It is delicious bringing back memories for so many indigenous. Yet it also has a past that has to be reckoned with , despite its' soothing flavor.

The Gateway To Egyptian Cooking.

 There was a time when Middle Eastern cooking was strictly regulated to Middle Eastern families and their kitchens. Yet thanks to Claudia Roden, home chefs now make hummus and spiced lamb. She shared her recipes , broadening palates and minds.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about this phenomenal cookbook writer in today's New York Times Food section. Ms Roden opened English eyes to  blending cucumbers with yogurt and garlic into a creamy salad along with simmering lentils with cumin for comforting , warm soup. She also taught British home chefs how to fold phyllo stuffed with cheese and various herbs into bite sized pastries.Ms. Roden is both Egyptian and Jewish. She came from a large, prominent Syrian Jewish family who had emigrated to Cairo in the 19th Century. Ms Roden also has Ladino or Jewish-Spanish roots that go back to pre-Inquisition Spain, thanks to her maternal grandmother. That heritage was reflected in her 2011 cookbook The Food Of Spain. The food she grew up with, the food of the Syrian Jews was  as she put it , sophisticated, varied and abundant. dishes had to be elaborate with many steps. These complicated dishes symbolized love for family and children. Making a one pit meal for dinner was considered an insult. Her family left this life in 1956 when President Nassar expelled all Jews. she and her family made their way to London where she studied at st. Martin;'s school of Art where she went on to become an accomplished painter.

Yet it is her recipes that stand out.They were gleaned from other exiles who piled into her mother's kitchen and exchanged recipes. These symbolized love and such dishes as rich almond-orange cake and mint sprinkled tahinio salad. Ms. Roden gave Ms Clark her recipes for bullinada ,a savory Catalan fish stew and a yogurt cake. The first is a savory blend of skinless hake or monkfish ,new potatoes a yellow onion and garlic. Mayonnaise is added for creaminess along with fish stock and dry white wine. Saffron, fennel seeds and Aleppo peppers.  Surprisingly the fish is added last, with the onions being the first. It cannot boil or the mayonnaise will curdle. The yogurt cake is made with one and two third cups of tangy Greek yogurt to give it a dense , cheesecake like quality crumb.It only has three tablespoons of flour and a cup and a half of sugar.The juice and zest of one lemon is also added , giving it a bright tart flavor. what gives the cake its' lightness is that the yolks and whites are beaten separately and then the whipped whites are added slowly to the batter.It's baked for forty to fifty-five minutes or until the top is puffy and speckled brown.

Claudia Roden has broadened palates to the rich and flavorful dishes of Jewish Cairo as well as Spain. Her recipes are colorful and  tasty.They re a great introduction to MIddle Eastern and Spanish cooking.

Souling Cakes

 Today is All Soul's Day , a time in the Christian calendar where people honor their relatives and ancestors long past. Ir was a common practice in Britain and Ireland to beg for little cakes and pies for a song or prayer for your gone loved ones. The tradition turned into Halloween but soul cakes remain the same. The recipes haven't changed in centuries.

Everyone may remember Sting's "Soul Cakes"  from his 2009 album "If On A Winter's Night". It was his version of a Peter , Paul and Mary song from 1965 which was based on the traditional British version. .Most "soulers" were poor and hungry. The wealthier townspeople gave them whatever fruit was lying around, apples pears, and  cherries,  However some were lucky enough to receive a small cake cookie or a tart filled with dried fruit. soul cakes then and now.Sheffield and Cheshire in England's northwest and central north respectively still carry on this tradition.It is also popular in Portugal where it's called Pao por deus and The Phillipines  where locals celebrate it as Panangaluwa. The soul cakes are blessed by a local priest and leftovers are either given to the poor or distributed amongst the families.  Here children promise to pray for the souls of the giver's dead relatives. Every cake eaten also freed the souls trapped in purgatory.This is done in Catholic and  even Lutheran parishes. The souling isn't limited to just today.It stretches out through the entire month of November.

There are four very good soul cake recipes if you're interested in souling (or you can distribute them at your local soup kitchen or food pantry) One of the easier is a shortbread style recipe. It's just one stick of softened butter mixed with four tablespoons of sugar and a cup and a half of flour.They're baked in rounds and decorated with fork marks, usually in a cross shape. Another soul cake recipe is a bit more substantial and somewhat zingy thanks to the addition of malt vinegar. Again this is buttery recipe, using two sticks of softened butter along with three and a half cups of flour .Nutmeg , saffron, cinnamon and and all spice spice it in a kind of medieval fashion. Two eggs bind it together . It's rolled out and then cut out with a glass. Powdered sugar is dusted on them while they're still warm.There are also Irish soul cakes which are more like small breads. These have yeast which produces a nice rise. Lemon zest and golden raisins give them color and flavor. For a heartier version make then with already made pie crusts, cut in circles and placed in muffin tins then fill with a mix of one cup of dried fruit,  two tablespoons of melted butter and two tablespoons of honey. These are just baked for fifteen minutes. You can get creative with these and use dried apricots, currents, cherries, raisins and Craisins - dried cranberries for the fillings.

This entire month can be dedicated to souling. Reward those with  these soul cakes, with their special flavors and symbolism, Remember those who have gone and celebrate their lives with these cakes and tarts.

Rediscovering Dios Los Muertos

 Today is Dios Los Muertos , or Day of the Dead. It's a 3,000 year old tradition in Mexico and it's where the souls of  dead children come down today and adult relatives come to be with their living ones. Special foods are cooked and baked to celebrate this reunion.

Americans always assume that Mexican food is just tortillas ans tacos but it's much much more than those.The foods made for today are called offrenda or offerings. Families bake  two pan de muerto , sweet  breads that have the distinctive taste of oranges and orange blossom water. anise seed and orange zest are also added to increase the bread's rich flavor.Bread afecionados  will love making this , because it's a nice change up from the regular white and sourdough. It can also be shaped to form an angel, skull and crossbones  or even a spirit animal.There is also tortillas di cempazuchitl or marigold tortillas. Marigiold figure prominently in the tradition as many home altars are festooned with them. Their strong scent is what leads the souls back to their families Marigold petals are edible and they are beautiful in these.The taste is sort of citrusy or spicy and have been also known as "the poor man's saffron". They can  even be added to tequila to give it a sweeter , earthier taste. Whole ones look pretty floating in glasses too

There is also heartier fare with tamales and mole sauce. Tamales  require corn husks which are filled with masa harina, finely ground cornmeal.  ground beef or chicken, queso fresco and chili peppers. They're spiced with cumin and chili peppers. They're then steamed for twenty minutes in a pressure cooker. Mole is another tasty tradition many don't know about.It's an easy make using unsweetened cocoa powder or chopped Mexican chocolate for its' rich brown color. Ancho, pasilla and mulato peppers are also added giving it some zing. Chicken or vegetable broth is added as are tomatoes along with more spicing.Coriander and cinnamon are also added. shortening is added for thickening as is bread. Raisins and pumpkin seeds along with almonds give it sweetness and crunch. The sauce is mostly served with pulled chicken.Mexican hot chocolate is sipped to ward off any nighttime chill. It's a fiery mix of cinnamon and a pinch of cayenne or chili powder.Milk is the base. Atoles is also served. This is passed down from the Aztecs and it's a mix of masa harina, milk and vanilla. It's usually eaten with a sweet cookie  and not the sugar skulls which are not edible.

Mexican food, especially the recipes served today on DIos Los Muertos is rich and layered. It reflects both the country's ancient tradtiions and recipes and the newer ones taken from Spain.The result is flavorful, dishes desserts and drink that bring all -  from the living to those who have passed together.

Spooky Sips

 What's a party without drinks? It's scary to think which is why you should have some fun libations at your Halloween party. They can be cocktails or mocktails. Just make sure they have an element of creepy fun.

The question most party throwers ask is to go totally alcohol or add a few mocktails. The best bet is go half and half. Some will want something with a wallop, others may not. There also may be pregnant or under age. Play it safe. Have a variety of both so everyone is happy.Don't underestimate the mocktail. The Halloween themed ones are both fun and tasty.Nothing says party like a punch and a berry filled one is delicious and thirst quenching. It's just taking a mixed cranberry juice like Ocean spray's sparkling Cran -mango or Cranraspberry. Add a cup of Welch's Grape Juice to get give it that dark ,bloody look, Use lychees to create eyeballs.You can also add cranberry juice and water to latex gloves , freeze and then break the  "bloody" fingers up to put into the punch.If you're planning on individual drinks, have plenty of flavored and plain seltzer and a wide variety of fruit juices along with the usual cocktail add in like citrus wedges and maraschino cherries. One is apple juice with frozen grape acting as ice cubes. Add a shot of seltzer and grenadine to give it bubble and zing. Want something to go with that witch's outfit? Try a black mocktail, made with pitted black cherries, pomegranate juice  and agave mixed with a few drops of black food coloring. Without the coloring it's still a lovely blood clot red.

Of course you can also have alcoholic drinks. Think a spooky rum punch topped with dry ice for a truly scary effect. Keep in mind to use gloves and tongs when handling dry ice and only use four or five pieces for it . Moat supermarkets sell it so there's no trouble to find it. The actual punch is a  good shot of rum,  five to six cups of cranberry juice along with five to six cups of apple juice. Add a bottle of ginger ale for fizz. Toss in a few candy eyeballs and gummy worms to ratchet up the creepy factor. Another wild drink is Witches Brew. You can use the extra dry ice to top off the drinks for a just from the cauldron effect. Mix Midori melon liqueur with Cointreu or Triple Sec. Add a squeeze of fresh lemon juice to balance out the sweetness and some ice. Stir the ingredients and strain it into a low ball glass. Serve the potent Vampire's Kiss for any of the   Edward Cullens attending . It's  simply a berry flavored martini. It's combining Chambord, a raspberry flavored liqueur with vodka and grenadine. Unsweetened cranberry juice is used. Don't buy the sweetened. It'll make the drink too sugary. A squeeze of fresh lemon juice adds brightness and tartness to it. Serve in a martini glass and decorate with plastic fangs

It's not Halloween without a fun drink or punch. Try a  scary and wild mockrail or cocktail to make the party lively. Have  a glass and just enjoy the night!!!

Fiery Flavors For Nippy Weather

 The weather is getting decidedly colder. It's time to add some heat to our food to warm us to our toes. what better than Aubrey D's mustards and hot sauces. These will definitely give some fire to even the most boring of dishes.

Aubrey d' is a Canadian company , bringing some serious heat to our chilly neighbors to the north. Their brand Rebel is known for their tangy and chili laced potato chips. They push the envelope with these with such flavors as chipotle, habanero and jalapeno. Now they bring that fire to their mustards. I couldn't resist their lure.  There are two new flavors laced with jalapeno, horseradish mustard and honey mustard along with their plain kind. I also tried their Rebel Hot sauce and Chipotle Hot sauce. Those are going to be perfect in my crock pot chili amping it to a four alarm dish, making it super hot.

I tried all three mustards along with the chipotle sauce on my veggie dogs. The honey mustard has a sweetness to it as well as a definite bite. It was interesting on the dogs but I think it would definitely boost the flavor of soft pretzels or pretzel bites for a fun hors d'ouevres. The hot dogs really got spiked when they were dipped in the gritty horseradish flavor which resembles Grey Poupon and the jalapeno. which has a smooth creamy texture. These would be perfect with a bologna sandwich , especially on a kaiser roll. I also plan on using them as a dipping sauce for pigs in blankets and will even baste the dough with both mustards before adding the franks and baking. Chicken wings and nuggets will also be good  dipped in their fiery goodness too.You could also marinate chicken or even pork, shrimp, or beef in them.It's just mixing half a cup of  olive oil with half a cup of mustard. marinate for a few hours and then grill or roast.

If you want to add zing to your sandwiches and meal, then definitely use Aubrey d's Rebel brand sauces and mustards. They know how to zing up any dish and make a meal memorable. Try these fiery gems today!

Bringing Back Breads From The Past

 Bread almost always defines a culture whether it's French baguette or a German rye.The same is true  with Latino and indigenous loaves and recipes.There is a movement to get away from the more European traditions and into the ancient breads of the New World.

John Birdsall a food writer and former cook wrote about Latinx and indigenous bakers rediscovering their culinary roots in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He focused on don Guerra , a leader of Tucson Arizona's local grain movement. He was an entrepreneur from the age of eight when he had his shoeshine business in his father Bennie's barber shop.By sixteen he was managing a diner.His love of baking kicked in after that. His mom, Denise, who also has Irish roots baked breads,cookies and pies to supplement the family income while his Mexican grandmother created tortillas. He started his first bakery , The Village Baker in 1996 in flagstaff. He opened a second branch a few years later in Ashland Oregon.It was too much. He got hi BA in primary school education and left the food industry. Yet the lure of baking was too strong. Mr. Guerra turned his two car garage into a bakery in 2009.It was named CSB (for community supported bakery). It was busy with people craving Mexican influenced breads. He now has Barrio Charro which features pan azteca sandwiches and a variety of Mexican foods' from tortillas and sopas or soups along with  one that has whole grains produced by Hayden FLour Mills.

Mr. Guerra should be known for just his amazing dishes and breads but he is also becoming famous for bringing the indigenous grains back to Arizona. He wants to import heritage organic wheat from across the border in Nogales. He has reached out to small farm owners like Jose Luis Lambarri in the Sonora state, near the town of Ciudad Obregon. four hundred miles south of Tuscon . The grain is the much desired Yaqui-50 , a soft wheat that has a sweet and nutty flavor. His passion is a source of inspiration for other Latinx bakers. Long Beach California;'s Gusto bread's owner Arturo Enciso favors Spanish terms for his creations. He calls his sourdough starter masa madre or mother dough. baguettes are huesos or bones. he bakes the delicious dark California bread is made with state grown wheat a direct nod to Barrio's heritage loaf.Bryan Ford , author of New World Sourdough that looks at craft baking through the lens of Latin America has noticed a shifts in the beginnings of the movement. He is Afro-Honduran and finds it refreshing that the grains of Mexico, along with Central and South American are now being highlighted.

Don Guerra is leading the country in returning to its' indigenous baking roots. The result is delicious bread  loved by previous generations. Now the current generation is enjoying the sweet yeasty goodness of traditional loaves.