The Gateway To Egyptian Cooking.

 There was a time when Middle Eastern cooking was strictly regulated to Middle Eastern families and their kitchens. Yet thanks to Claudia Roden, home chefs now make hummus and spiced lamb. She shared her recipes , broadening palates and minds.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about this phenomenal cookbook writer in today's New York Times Food section. Ms Roden opened English eyes to  blending cucumbers with yogurt and garlic into a creamy salad along with simmering lentils with cumin for comforting , warm soup. She also taught British home chefs how to fold phyllo stuffed with cheese and various herbs into bite sized pastries.Ms. Roden is both Egyptian and Jewish. She came from a large, prominent Syrian Jewish family who had emigrated to Cairo in the 19th Century. Ms Roden also has Ladino or Jewish-Spanish roots that go back to pre-Inquisition Spain, thanks to her maternal grandmother. That heritage was reflected in her 2011 cookbook The Food Of Spain. The food she grew up with, the food of the Syrian Jews was  as she put it , sophisticated, varied and abundant. dishes had to be elaborate with many steps. These complicated dishes symbolized love for family and children. Making a one pit meal for dinner was considered an insult. Her family left this life in 1956 when President Nassar expelled all Jews. she and her family made their way to London where she studied at st. Martin;'s school of Art where she went on to become an accomplished painter.

Yet it is her recipes that stand out.They were gleaned from other exiles who piled into her mother's kitchen and exchanged recipes. These symbolized love and such dishes as rich almond-orange cake and mint sprinkled tahinio salad. Ms. Roden gave Ms Clark her recipes for bullinada ,a savory Catalan fish stew and a yogurt cake. The first is a savory blend of skinless hake or monkfish ,new potatoes a yellow onion and garlic. Mayonnaise is added for creaminess along with fish stock and dry white wine. Saffron, fennel seeds and Aleppo peppers.  Surprisingly the fish is added last, with the onions being the first. It cannot boil or the mayonnaise will curdle. The yogurt cake is made with one and two third cups of tangy Greek yogurt to give it a dense , cheesecake like quality crumb.It only has three tablespoons of flour and a cup and a half of sugar.The juice and zest of one lemon is also added , giving it a bright tart flavor. what gives the cake its' lightness is that the yolks and whites are beaten separately and then the whipped whites are added slowly to the batter.It's baked for forty to fifty-five minutes or until the top is puffy and speckled brown.

Claudia Roden has broadened palates to the rich and flavorful dishes of Jewish Cairo as well as Spain. Her recipes are colorful and  tasty.They re a great introduction to MIddle Eastern and Spanish cooking.