Rediscovering Dios Los Muertos

 Today is Dios Los Muertos , or Day of the Dead. It's a 3,000 year old tradition in Mexico and it's where the souls of  dead children come down today and adult relatives come to be with their living ones. Special foods are cooked and baked to celebrate this reunion.

Americans always assume that Mexican food is just tortillas ans tacos but it's much much more than those.The foods made for today are called offrenda or offerings. Families bake  two pan de muerto , sweet  breads that have the distinctive taste of oranges and orange blossom water. anise seed and orange zest are also added to increase the bread's rich flavor.Bread afecionados  will love making this , because it's a nice change up from the regular white and sourdough. It can also be shaped to form an angel, skull and crossbones  or even a spirit animal.There is also tortillas di cempazuchitl or marigold tortillas. Marigiold figure prominently in the tradition as many home altars are festooned with them. Their strong scent is what leads the souls back to their families Marigold petals are edible and they are beautiful in these.The taste is sort of citrusy or spicy and have been also known as "the poor man's saffron". They can  even be added to tequila to give it a sweeter , earthier taste. Whole ones look pretty floating in glasses too

There is also heartier fare with tamales and mole sauce. Tamales  require corn husks which are filled with masa harina, finely ground cornmeal.  ground beef or chicken, queso fresco and chili peppers. They're spiced with cumin and chili peppers. They're then steamed for twenty minutes in a pressure cooker. Mole is another tasty tradition many don't know about.It's an easy make using unsweetened cocoa powder or chopped Mexican chocolate for its' rich brown color. Ancho, pasilla and mulato peppers are also added giving it some zing. Chicken or vegetable broth is added as are tomatoes along with more spicing.Coriander and cinnamon are also added. shortening is added for thickening as is bread. Raisins and pumpkin seeds along with almonds give it sweetness and crunch. The sauce is mostly served with pulled chicken.Mexican hot chocolate is sipped to ward off any nighttime chill. It's a fiery mix of cinnamon and a pinch of cayenne or chili powder.Milk is the base. Atoles is also served. This is passed down from the Aztecs and it's a mix of masa harina, milk and vanilla. It's usually eaten with a sweet cookie  and not the sugar skulls which are not edible.

Mexican food, especially the recipes served today on DIos Los Muertos is rich and layered. It reflects both the country's ancient tradtiions and recipes and the newer ones taken from Spain.The result is flavorful, dishes desserts and drink that bring all -  from the living to those who have passed together.

Easing Into Fall Cooking

 Don't put away the grill and cold salads just because a few leaves have fallen and school has started.It's still summer, albeit with slightly nippy mornings and evenings. It's just a matter of easing into fall cooking and combining the best of the two seasons.

There may still be warm days and evenings ahead. Go ahead and barbecue those cuts your family loves. You can still have chicken legs and hamburgers but add a fall spice like ground star anise , turmeric or sage. The last is an autumn staple, appearing mostly in Thanksgiving stuffing. Sage traditionally goes with poultry and smoked sage will infuse the chicken meat with a lovely ,  citrus-y note. Mix it with rosemary and add to any hamburger for a more autumnal spin on a hot weather classic. One fall dish, roast turkey can easily be cooked over wood chips.Use the breasts instead of the whole bird. For a bit more fun think about turkey legs.Don't fret over trying to find them. Most Wal-marts and Shop-Rites have them. Since the turkey flavor is so unique, just baste with melted butter, sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Just these alone will make for a nice crispy exterior. What to serve with it? You can buy jarred gravy or use any frozen stuff from the holidays. Add homemade stuffing and a salad featuring craisins  - dried cranberries for a tasty Saturday supper or Sunday lunch.

One fall comfort food is meat loaf. Unfortunately to cook or bake it, requires a hot oven which can be uncomfortable on a warm day.Luckily this is another recipe that is grill friendly. Spray the grill with non stick cooking spray so the loaf won't stick and get messy, You can even add half a cup of barbecue sauce to the  mix for a tangy bite. A fun spin would be serving sliced meat loaf on hamburger buns. Add the same fixings you would a regular hamburger.  Pile with bacon, tomatoes, and lettuce. Add onion slices and avocados or even a slice of sharp cheddar. Grilled foods call for salads. By now you're probably sick of the mayo soaked macaroni ones. Again use the grill to create tasty ones with a rich smoky flavor. Try late season corn and tomatoes for a flavorful one.It's easy to char both on a grill, then scrape the niblets off the ears. Mix with the tomatoes along with a tasty lime vinaigrette. If you want to make it more substantial, add the Mexican cheese, queso fresco which is like feta cheese and sliced avocado. A more fallish one is simply butter lettuce with apple slices and walnuts. Use different types like Fuji and Granny Smith for color and crunch. A simple apple cider vinaigrette works with this.

Ease into fall cooking by combining the ingredients of both seasons. Use and pair cool weather ingredients with hot weather techniques. It makes for tasty meals with both a summer and autumn vibe.

The Whole Enchilada

Everyone has their own spin on enchiladas. There are opinions about what fillings to use or what sauces to make for it. Then there are the cheeses?American or authentic Mexican? What makes a good Tex-Mex one?

Sam Sifton had these questions as he wrote about and tasted variations of them for his column in today's New York Times Food section.He flew to Houston where he visited about seven eateries to try the best version for adaptation in his kitchen. South Texas has three basic varieties .Local Houston restaurants such as El Real Tex-Mex has ten while Sylvia's has nineteen.Mr. Sifton just stuck with the three: cheese enchiladas served in a red hued chili gravy or sauce, chicken enchiladas served with a tomatillo sauce and enchiladas stuffed and topped with chili con carne. All are served with cheese and that's when the debate kicks in. The chicken version is served with the Mexican queso fresco,a freshly made mild cheese that can even be created at home.The other two however is made with processed Cheddar. Many blanch at the idea of using American cheese.Home chefs can use real cheddar but there is a caveat.It congeals very quickly and can leave the dish a gunky mess. Go for the in between choice - processed cheddar. Robb Walsh,proprietor of Houston restaurant El Real recommends it because.it provides stability and when mixed with other cheeses takes on their flavors.

That's not the only problem home chefs have with making enchiladas whose name comes from the Spanish enchildar to enrobe.. Making the tortilla soft is a labor intensive job. firm, Fresh corn tortillas have to be dipped into hot oil to make them soft and pliable. Only one or two at a time can be dipped however once home chefs get the hang of them , then it becomes a snap. Use tongs to make the process easier as well as safer.Chef Walsh offers this advice ."dip the tortillas,then roll them around, what ever you're cooking.The seam should be placed down on the pan or skillet.Sauce the middle so the edges get brown and crunchy. Don't smother them in sauce. They'll become gloopy. As for the sauces themselves,they 're quite simple. Mr. Sifton makes a chili gravy for the cheese enchiladas. It's a simple roux amped up with chili powder. The sauce for the chicken version is almost like a primavera sauce with fresh tomatillos cooked with onions and serrano chilis Garlic and cilantro round it out. They're pureed together for a fine blend that amps up the chicken's mild flavor.Any of the recipes can be topped with a fried egg. Rice and red beans are a must for sides.

What makes the perfect enchilada? A combination of both American and Mexican ingredients that create a wonderful, cheesy casserole , chock full of spice. It's a great marriage of flavors and cultures.