The Leftover Issue

What to do with those scores of leftovers? Not surprisingly Wednesday's New York Times Food section came out with its' leftover issues. After all, it guided home chefs through the prepping and cooking their Thanksgiving meal. It should be no different the day after. There are some innovative dishes to try with what's left of your holiday  bounty.

If you're tired of tetrazzini or turkey sandwiches you may want to read  Samin Nosrat's contribution to the Food section.Chef Nosrat not only cooks but writes a popular blog. She spices up the usually bland meat with a dazzling array of spices and ideas. Turkey is an excellent canvas because it easily absorbs other flavors which only accentuate its mild gaminess.If you're looking for a light leftover then think the Vietnamese chicken noodle soup pho ga .It' a clear broth zested up with star anise, ginger, and fish sauce.It does require turkey broth but if you don't have it  then sub in chicken broth.There's also brown sugar and fish sauce.If you don't have or can't find the last mix up soy sauce with hoisin and use that.The soup also has yellow onion too for flavor and texture. The onions and ginger can either be charred over an open flame or broiled on a foil-lined baking sheet. Pho ga is a fun soup because eaters can customize it from a platter of add-ins such as mung beans, cilantro, Thai basil, limes, and jalapenos. It can be fragrantly herbal or zingy with fire. It's also a comforting noodle soup thanks to also having rice vermicelli added, perfect on a cold November night.

Chef Nosrat also gives us turkey mole verde and turkey tikka marsala. The first is a nod to Mexican cooking and is a great way of combining light and dark meat.It's not the typical mole recipe that requires cocoa  but a green one made up of  tomatillos, chard  romaine leaves, jalapeno,cilantro, and oregano. Again it does require turkey stock but chicken can do nicely here.It also has an interesting paste made from pumpkin and sesame.It can be served with steamed white rice or corn tortillas.For an entirely different spin Chef Nosrat gives us turkey tikka masala.It's marinating four cups of the bird in a bright  and spicy bath of garam masala, coriander ,cumin, paprika and turmeric blended with crushed garlic and plain yogurt.The masala  calls for ghee or clarified butter but you can also use a neutral tasting oil such as vegetable or olive.This is made separately with tomatoes and serrano peppers as the marinated turkey is broiled  until it blackens in spots. This  usually takes five to six minutes..Before combining the meat and masala, the masala has to be pureed for a smoother texture, The turkey is then added to this and simmered for five to ten minutes, with an occasional stir until it's done. Garnish with cilantro and serve with steamed basmati rice.

Don't  let that turkey languish in the fridge.Use it in fun and spicy recipes that will accentuate its' gamey , sweet mildness. It is the perfect canvas for all sorts of flavors and techniques.

The Whole Enchilada

Everyone has their own spin on enchiladas. There are opinions about what fillings to use or what sauces to make for it. Then there are the cheeses?American or authentic Mexican? What makes a good Tex-Mex one?

Sam Sifton had these questions as he wrote about and tasted variations of them for his column in today's New York Times Food section.He flew to Houston where he visited about seven eateries to try the best version for adaptation in his kitchen. South Texas has three basic varieties .Local Houston restaurants such as El Real Tex-Mex has ten while Sylvia's has nineteen.Mr. Sifton just stuck with the three: cheese enchiladas served in a red hued chili gravy or sauce, chicken enchiladas served with a tomatillo sauce and enchiladas stuffed and topped with chili con carne. All are served with cheese and that's when the debate kicks in. The chicken version is served with the Mexican queso fresco,a freshly made mild cheese that can even be created at home.The other two however is made with processed Cheddar. Many blanch at the idea of using American cheese.Home chefs can use real cheddar but there is a caveat.It congeals very quickly and can leave the dish a gunky mess. Go for the in between choice - processed cheddar. Robb Walsh,proprietor of Houston restaurant El Real recommends it because.it provides stability and when mixed with other cheeses takes on their flavors.

That's not the only problem home chefs have with making enchiladas whose name comes from the Spanish enchildar to enrobe.. Making the tortilla soft is a labor intensive job. firm, Fresh corn tortillas have to be dipped into hot oil to make them soft and pliable. Only one or two at a time can be dipped however once home chefs get the hang of them , then it becomes a snap. Use tongs to make the process easier as well as safer.Chef Walsh offers this advice ."dip the tortillas,then roll them around, what ever you're cooking.The seam should be placed down on the pan or skillet.Sauce the middle so the edges get brown and crunchy. Don't smother them in sauce. They'll become gloopy. As for the sauces themselves,they 're quite simple. Mr. Sifton makes a chili gravy for the cheese enchiladas. It's a simple roux amped up with chili powder. The sauce for the chicken version is almost like a primavera sauce with fresh tomatillos cooked with onions and serrano chilis Garlic and cilantro round it out. They're pureed together for a fine blend that amps up the chicken's mild flavor.Any of the recipes can be topped with a fried egg. Rice and red beans are a must for sides.

What makes the perfect enchilada? A combination of both American and Mexican ingredients that create a wonderful, cheesy casserole , chock full of spice. It's a great marriage of flavors and cultures.

Steak And Salsa A Good Pairing

Nothing beats a good barbecued steak. Done the right way it can be heaven. Nothing also beats a good side, however but  by now we're all tired of  the usual slaws and sides.Why not a salsa, one with a fruit base as something different  and fresh.

Melissa Clark of The New York Times Dining section tackled this just yesterday in her A Good Appetite column. She takes a flank steak, which is a great piece to grill and gives it an unusual rub. Hers is one of orange juice mixed with chili powder and oregano. This gives the meat a charred  spicy exterior and a sweet juiciness on the inside. It should be marinated a full 24 hours so it can fully soak up the chili powder. Ms. Clark recommends using a New Mexico kind,It has a deep fruity undertone that will work well with the juice.

The salsa that is served with it also has fruit. Pineapple chunks are mixed with  the red hot jalapenos along with tomatillos.Onions are also added for another layer of sweetness. Each is individually grilled and then mixed together. The fruit caramelizes and this sweetness is a perfect foil for the state. You can also serve sliced avocados or a simple corn or even a potato salad as well. If you want to vary the fruit then try mango cut into chunks.

This is the season for throwing  a few steaks on the grill.Try a fiery fruity rub to bring out that meaty flavor. Pair it with the same kind of salsa and you have a dream meal. There's nothing like a good cut , graced with a heaping of heat and sweet.

Vote!!!! Read This Tomorrow!

Today is one of the most historic election days in US history. Instead of reading about the history of the tomatillo here go out and contribute to the never ending history of this amazing and great nation.

If you do feel foodie patriotic, then have a slice of apple pie or a malted or that US dinner standard: mashed potatoes (like I just did).

The most important thing you do today is not have three square meals but to go out and vote. Yours means something.

Then tonight, kick back with your favorite snacks and watch the election returns. I have my bottle of champagne ready for when my candidate wins. You should too.