The Leftover Issue

What to do with those scores of leftovers? Not surprisingly Wednesday's New York Times Food section came out with its' leftover issues. After all, it guided home chefs through the prepping and cooking their Thanksgiving meal. It should be no different the day after. There are some innovative dishes to try with what's left of your holiday  bounty.

If you're tired of tetrazzini or turkey sandwiches you may want to read  Samin Nosrat's contribution to the Food section.Chef Nosrat not only cooks but writes a popular blog. She spices up the usually bland meat with a dazzling array of spices and ideas. Turkey is an excellent canvas because it easily absorbs other flavors which only accentuate its mild gaminess.If you're looking for a light leftover then think the Vietnamese chicken noodle soup pho ga .It' a clear broth zested up with star anise, ginger, and fish sauce.It does require turkey broth but if you don't have it  then sub in chicken broth.There's also brown sugar and fish sauce.If you don't have or can't find the last mix up soy sauce with hoisin and use that.The soup also has yellow onion too for flavor and texture. The onions and ginger can either be charred over an open flame or broiled on a foil-lined baking sheet. Pho ga is a fun soup because eaters can customize it from a platter of add-ins such as mung beans, cilantro, Thai basil, limes, and jalapenos. It can be fragrantly herbal or zingy with fire. It's also a comforting noodle soup thanks to also having rice vermicelli added, perfect on a cold November night.

Chef Nosrat also gives us turkey mole verde and turkey tikka marsala. The first is a nod to Mexican cooking and is a great way of combining light and dark meat.It's not the typical mole recipe that requires cocoa  but a green one made up of  tomatillos, chard  romaine leaves, jalapeno,cilantro, and oregano. Again it does require turkey stock but chicken can do nicely here.It also has an interesting paste made from pumpkin and sesame.It can be served with steamed white rice or corn tortillas.For an entirely different spin Chef Nosrat gives us turkey tikka masala.It's marinating four cups of the bird in a bright  and spicy bath of garam masala, coriander ,cumin, paprika and turmeric blended with crushed garlic and plain yogurt.The masala  calls for ghee or clarified butter but you can also use a neutral tasting oil such as vegetable or olive.This is made separately with tomatoes and serrano peppers as the marinated turkey is broiled  until it blackens in spots. This  usually takes five to six minutes..Before combining the meat and masala, the masala has to be pureed for a smoother texture, The turkey is then added to this and simmered for five to ten minutes, with an occasional stir until it's done. Garnish with cilantro and serve with steamed basmati rice.

Don't  let that turkey languish in the fridge.Use it in fun and spicy recipes that will accentuate its' gamey , sweet mildness. It is the perfect canvas for all sorts of flavors and techniques.

The Exotic Side Of Atlantic City

Atlantic City has always been known for it's 'gambling and Jersey shore foods.After all it was the birthplace of the famed pork roll sandwich and salt water taffy.Now it's also being recognized as a sort of capital of Vietnamese cooking.There are now a growing group of Vietnamese restaurants that are becoming visitor favorites. It was an article in Wednesday's New York Times ODining section and was written by Robert Sietsema.The piece features one of Southeast Asia's tastiest dishes ,a soup called pho.THis is a broth with a melange of meats and spices?The broth is beef and star anise are the main overtones.There's also chicken along with scallions and garlic.This is served with noodles and is the perfect alternative to all that boardwalk fare.Some restaurants feature the foods from the Mekong Delta , the southern part of the country and one is hu tie ,a pork broth that also has seafood in it. Atlantic City does have a large Vietnamese population due to the gambling industry.They've hired many immigrants in their casinos so there is a need for this kind of restaurant.Like all Asian owned eateries they are big on family and many cater to those who love home cooking.No overly fancy or rich casino meals here. The stars are some home cooked mealsThere is Tom ram man ,a juicy shrimp grilled in a caramel sauce and cooked in a traditional clay pot along with boa xao luc lac ,This is cubes of beefsteak coated with black pepper and served wrapped radicchio and lettuce.People new to the cuisine could try Bo hue ,a spicy beef soup along with rice noodles. If you're going to Atlantic City fpr a vacation do stop and try any of the Vietnamese restaurants that dot the city.They are refreshing departure from the usual fried clams and pork rolls.Enjoy simple home cooked els after a night of too glamgambling

Holding Onto Tradition:Vietnamese Cooking

For those who love bot the exotic and traditional Vietnamese cooking hits the mark. It has the flavors of Southeast Asia  combined with century old recipes.Best of all it can be made at home thanks to a new cookbook. For those who love  Vietnamese, it;s time to make it at home instead of searching for the rare restaurant featuring it.

The cookbook is Vietnamese Home Cooking by Charles Phan,the famed San Francisco chef who has a string of six restaurants around the city. The book has come out from Ten Speed Press and an interview with him was in the Wednesday's New York Times Dining section. He is a devoted father and cook ,making his famed dishes for his three kids at their apartment above his one restaurant,Out The Door.They are the dishes that are also in the book and easy to make for American audiences.

The Phan family came to the US two years  after the fall of Saigon in 1977 when Mr Phan himself was only sixteen. He and his mother who still cooks for the family make the  wonderful dishes that they brought with them. One is a mix of tomatoes, chard and squid over rice. Most Vietnamese dishes are either steamed,braised or stir fried dishes.He makes his kids  the traditional steamed chicken with lily buds and dried shiitake mushrooms. His wife is his sous chef helping him cut and dice, His mother cuts up persimmons and peeled longan fruit for dessert. Despite it all his three kids still want American fare every now and then despite being surrounded by their  father's masterpieces,

If you love the exotic and traditional then buy Mr. Phan's book. If you're a fan of his restaurants, then definitely purchase it .You can bring the flavor and the fun home with you.

New Orleans Back In Style

Yesterday's New York Times Dining section featured an interesting article by
Sam Sifton, about New Orleans. Thanks to the HBO series Treme , people, especially foodies are becoming interested again in this amazing town. It's about time people got back to it and rediscovered the great melange of creole and Cajun cooking.

The city is vibrant as ever with old stand bys like Maldina's still serving a good mix of Italian and regional cooking. There is also the Vietnamese influence. They came here as refugees after the fall of Saigon in 1975 and like the Cajuns adapted the area and brought their own spin to the local foods. Now there are many shops featuring the Vietnamese sandwiches,sort of similar to po' boys. Of course New Orleans is nothing without Emeril Lagasse and his restaurant is still thriving. Some people felt he had abandoned the city after Hurricane Katrina but he is back generating good meals and money for recovering New Orleans

If you have the time, visit this grand dame of Southern Cities. The atmosphere is phenomenal. So is the food.