The Fall Baking Season

 Now that cooler weather is here, it's time to think about fall baking,. Many of us have been baked out , thanks to the pandemic and the quest for the perfect sourdough. Yet baking is much more than that. It's trying well loved recipes and putting new spins on old ones. It's a whole bake shop of different ideas.

Of course apples are big right now.Everyone is baking pies however apples can be used in a variety of other recipes too. A fun variation are apple dumplings. These are basically apples en croute with a cinnamon laced dough wrapped around them.  They're good with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. An apple galette is another delicious baked treat. Many home bakers balk at creating a fruit galette, thinking it's a fancy tart but it's really a free form pie. An apple galette is the perfect autumn dessert that can end a fancy meal or just a simple one. Apples can also go healthy with being a vital ingredient in muffins. They 're just sliced and grated into the other ingredients. Fall is also pear season. This elegant fruit can be the main ingredient of a tarte tatin, a buttery crusted pie with a caramelized interior. A tasty appetizer is a pear and Brie cheese baked en croute. This is a savory and sweet dish that has a Brie or Camenbert baked with spicy pear compote.

Spices play a big part in autumn baking. Everybody loves a kitchen redolent with the aromas of allspice , cinnamon , ginger and nutmeg .  These can be used together or separately in a variety of different baked goods. Together they create the ubiquitous pumpkin pie spice which is all over right now. Use them for what they were originally used for  - pumpkin pie. It's still a great way to end a meal whether  it's a Thanksgiving feast or just a Sunday dinner. The recipe can be varied. Home bakers can try their hand at pumpkin pie tartlets or turn the filling into a pudding and then fill in an already made crust.  Another spicy treat is a spice cake. Think of a double layered one with a cream cheese frosting (sort of like a carrot cake but without the carrots and raisins). This can easily be turned into a batch of cupcakes too, as a fun treat for a fall backyard barbecue. Cinnamon is another fall spice that's versatile in baking. A cinnamon cake is a nice alternative to a vanilla one and it can be served without icing or just with a simple dusting of confectioner's sugar. Cinnamon bread and rolls take the chill out of a cool morning and are an easy bake the whole family can participate in. Ginger and nutmeg are perfect in gingerbread along with clove and allspice. Add some cocoa powder to truly elevate this classic recipe as NIgella Lawson did with her gingerbread cake recipe.

Celebrate the fall baking season with a buttery apple stuffed galette or spice cupcakes topped with a blog of cream cheese frosting. It's the season to create delicious pies, cakes breads cupcakes, and cookies. Have fun and be creative , as you welcome the cool weather with fresh from the oven treats.

The Lesser Spices

 Let's face it. oregano , rosemary and garlic are the spice stars of any kitchen, whether residential or commercial. They sparkle and shine in sauces and rubs, marinades and vinaigrettes. Yet there are lesser known and used spices that can give oomph to any savory or sweet dish. It's time to get to know them.

Fenugreek is one of those lesser known seasonings. Only a few professional chefs have used it in various sauces and side dishes. Mention it to a home chef and you might be met with a "Huh?". Fenugreek is an herb similar to clover and found mostly in the Mediterranean  region along in South Asia and  southern Europe. The seeds are the part of the flower that's primarily used and the flavor is similar to maple syrup. The Indians eat the fenugreek leaves as a vegetable, It's best in Indian cooking gracing such dishes as aloo methi, a traditional Indian potato curry and methi dal, a dal that also uses the leaves as does the first dish. It's also one of the ingredients in Berbere spice rub which gives the mix a certain sweetness. Caraway is another spice that many home chefs don't know or rarely use. Yet it's a part of everyone's favorite bread - rye. The seeds have been gracing the tasty loaf for centuries. It's used also in biscuits, cakes, stews meat dishes sauerkraut and pickles. Caraway is even used in cheeses. Sprinkle a teaspoon in any stew for more flavor or over a pork roast. Definitely think of it when you're baking bread and want a nice topping.

Cardamon is another spice that's sadly underused in the home kitchen.It has a piny flavor , sort of like rosemary.It's grown in tropical areas like India and Malaysia along with Costa Rica. It's used to flavor basmati rice and curries. It's also a spice that works well with chicken, whether as a rub or as a sweet and savory curry sauce. Use this spice in baking too, Cardamon shortbread cookies are a nice addition to any Christmas cookie table. A flourless chocolate cake laced with it is always a delicious end to a dinner. Coriander is another spice that's only used during pumpkin spice season.It's one of the many spices that gives pumpkin pie and its' offshoots that tangy, sweet taste. It's grown in India and Indonesia and features strongly in both cuisines. It's also used in Mexican, namely in chiles, where it add some sweet zing.Coriander is  a big ingredient in Spanish and Latin recipes as well being part of rubs, sauces and soups. Try a coriander-cumin rub for your pork chops. This is a mix of the spices with hot chili powder, allspice and paprika. Allspice is another under rated spice.It can be found in the Greater Antilles, southern Mexico and Central America. It can be used in flavoring everything from Swedish meatballs to Jamaican jerk chicken.It also works well in spice cakes and cookies, perfect for fall baking. Think a spice cake with cream cheese frosting or streusel muffins, spiked with it.

These are just some of the lesser known spices. However they add big flavor to everything from stew to cakes. Try  them for a different spin on spicy cooking and baking.

The Bagel Lady

 There's nothing like New York bagels. They're a combination of chewiness and taste, sweet and savory. Many get the bagel bug , wanting to recreate this  in such far from Manhattan as possible places. Yet how can they, without the the right recipe and advice? Enter Beth George - the Bagel Lady. She has helped several bagel shops around the world get started, and helped make this quintessential NY delight global.

Alan Neuhauser,a freelance contributor wrote this interesting piece about Ms. George and her business partner, Frank Mauro , in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Ms. George who is officially a lawyer started out in the bagel industry in 2013. It began as simply a hobby and also for her son who had a sensitivity to gluten. She created all sorts of spelt breads, that became popular with family and friends. Soon she was selling them to Whole Foods after starting her bread company , Spelt Right. She needed equipment to help with the high demand so she got in touch with Mr. Mauro, head of regional sales at Excalibur Bagel and Bread Equipment. He was skeptical. Spelt dough can be temperamental. It can be too gooey or dry for the contraption known as "the bagel machine". This is a Rube Goldberg like type with a rotating metal cog and a gliding conveyor belt. He told her it wasn't going to work with her recipe but she could give it a try. She drive from her place in Maine where she was at the time to Paramus ,New Jersey to see for herself. That night she had the machine on the back of her pick up truck. Her company went bust thanks to the spike in spelt prices but Ms. George and Mr. Mauro remained connected. He realized he needed someone to show new bagel machine. That person was Ms. George who is now in Nearby Fair Lawn, new Jersey.

Ms. George has helped bagel shop owners as far as as India and Australia. She offered valuable advice to Spurthy Akshar, a young lawyer from Bangalore who wanted to open a New York type bagel shop in her town. She will put her own twist on it by offering spreads made from paneers and local vegetables. Then there are Eddy Tice and his partner, Ania Kutek who own NYC Bagel Deli in Brisbane. They , too, had lessons with Ms, George but unfortunately their landlord forced them to open shop earlier than expected in the new food hall where they were located.The staff hadn't been trained enough which meant burned bagels sticking to the machine. Luckily that's all turned around four years later with a new cafe called Superthing. Bagel love also hit the streets of Paris, where, despite all their expertise with such intricate breads like croissants and brioches, , French bakers flopped at bagel making. Again Ms. George came to the rescue, flying to the City of Light to help. Bagel making classes last four days and are eight hours each day.  Students learn how a handful of dough stretched into a thin unbroken windowpane can reveal if it's oven ready and how barley malt brushed on bagel tops can turn them into golden rings once baked. She does talk to students about the cost of opening up a shop  as well. It isn't cheap, starting at $225,000. Usually most people go in as partners, whether husband or wife or friends .

New York style bagels are becoming a global staple thanks to Ms. George. She is invaluable to those wanting to learn how to make this classic roll. It's not easy but she can show how to make it as simple as a toasted bagel with a schmear of cream cheese.

Comforting Dishes From The Times Pantry

 Comfort food is going to be big this season. We're going to need dishes that soothe and help our troubled souls and minds. Luckily the New York Times has gathered some of the best recipes from  From The Pantry, a series of recipes that helped home chefs during the pandemic. Sadly, it's ending its' run soon yet home chefs can enjoy the many recipes it still offers.

Melissa Clark curated these in today's New York Times food section. She offers the highlights of it and what the recipes can do.  They're confident and flexible along with being versatile to stretch to two or even three meals.They represent the best of pantry cooking, which done right can help you adapt your favorite recipes to what's in the pantry. Ms. Clark also shows how to get past all those panic bought beans and boxes of pasta and create comforting meals for the entire family to enjoy. She starts with the recipe for baked polenta. This is the perfect dish for fall and for a weekend supper. It starts with corn kernels,whether canned, frozen or right off the cob sizzled in a pan with butter. Polenta grains are added. Then throw in anything you want, Alliums like shallots or scalions, greens, like kale . You could add some cheese like feta ,blue or Parmesan. She suggests my favorite, adding eggs along with a lot of freshly ground pepper and sea salt. Another pantry dish is the famed Irish dish colcannon. She up the flavor with crispy fried leeks and add some sliced garlic cloves. Cabbage or kale is traditional but you can use broccoli rabe too. Add milk or vegetable broth and lots of butter for a truly creamy taste.

Comfort meals got us and are still getting us through this pandemic. There are recipes for tuna casserole and roasted chicken. Ms. Clark's take on the tuna casserole?  Zing it up with garlic and white wine! There's also a pinch of red pepper flakes for heat. You can use tuna in water but use the one in olive oil for a richer flavor.It'll be mashed into white beans , giving the dish a chunky texture. It's topped with Gruyere, according to the original recipe by Diana Henry, a British based food writer. her recipe was a Breton  tuna and white bean gratin. Ms. Clark gives it an American spin by adding potato chips to the topping. Roasted chicken is another dish that's not only comforting but versatile too. The bones can be used for stock while leftovers can be turned into chicken salad for lunchtime sandwiches. The stock though is the best. It's just taking the bones, and  cooking them with aromatics such as ginger or onions , carrots or herb stems. Cover with cold water and simmer for two to three hours. How does she end these meals? With a comforting dessert, the classic chocolate cake made with mayo! This is a rich cake anyway, made with Dutch cocoa and chocolate chips. The liquid used is hot coffee although you can use tea too. Vanilla can be used but so can bourbon or brandy if you don't have the first. Ms. Clark recommends just dusting it with confectioner's sugar although you can add a cream cheese frosting or chocolate glaze for more decadence.

There's nothing like comfort food,especially during these crazy times. Make what you want. Then enjoy these good for the soul, good for the mind dishes.

Eating Out Under An Autumn Sky

Autumn is officially here and with it comes cool days and chilly nights. We can still take advantage of our back yard, night or day with eating out. It can be elegant.It can be fun. It's up to you.

A cozy evening for two or with the kids could consist of eating around the fire pit. Everyone seems to have one these days and it makes for a lovely night despite falling temps.An easy supper under the stars is a charcuterie platter, complete with veggies and fruit. What is great about charcuterie is that there are no set rules about what to serve. The variety is usually a pate alongside salame, mortadella, prosciutto and speck, an uncured, smoked piece of pork, You could put out beef tartare if you want or bresaola, a dried salted beef from Italy. A luxe one would be jamon, Spanish ham, sliced wafer thin. Charcuterie boards also demand cheese so have wedges of Brie or Gruyere. A sharp Vermont cheddar would be the perfect fall choice as well. Make sure you have a sliced baguette too, already sliced. You could add a crusty artesenal rye or sourdough one too. Small bowls of olives , grapes, and peppers would round it out as well as bowls of herbed olive oil for dipping. As for drinking, a hot mulled wine could be a great option, You could also go with Zinfandels or  Sirahs too. Finish with brandied coffee , a fruit galette and a blanket to snuggle into  to watch the stars.

Of course it's not time to put away the grill. An autumn barbecue is just as fun as the ones you had in the summer. In fact make it like the tailgate parties of years past since we can't go to the stadiums this year. If you ate beef burgers for the past three months, then switch it up. Lamb is very flavorful. Add some fresh mint , parsley and garlic along with cumin, paprika and oregano for a Greek spin. 

Serve with Greek yogurt.  Beyond Meat is another choice  as is Gardein's Ultimate Beefless Burger. They deliver the same juiciness and flavor as the real thing. Instead of hamburger buns, think artesanal bread instead. You can also go full tailgate with brats and hot dogs too. Think of splitting them and filling them with cheddar or Swiss.  As for sides, a black bean and corn salad is a different idea after months of macaroni  salad and cold slaw. You could also make a simple but delicious beet salad. Bathe sliced beets in a classic vinaigrette seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Another fun side are bacon wrapped jalapeno poppers. This is first splitting the peppers in half and then stuffing them with a spicy cream cheese mix. Bacon is then wrapped around them and fastened  into place with toothpicks. Dessert could be s'mores made with different chocolates, white ,  milk and dark or just old fashioned brownies with mugs of hot coffee and tea.

There's nothing like eating outside and you can still do it. Enjoy a beautiful night sky with a good charcuterie platter or a warm fall day with an at home tail gate meal. It's just a nice way to enjoy the change of weather with good food and good drink.

The Savory Side of Honey

 We'reused to using honey as a sweet ingredient. We put it in teas , breads and a variety of different desserts. Yet it can also be used in savory dishes too for a different spin. Using it gives a more mellow flavor to savory dishes.

Many home chefs will first  ask what's the better choice of honey - white or brown? From a nutritional point of view white, light or golden honey has more vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Darker honey has a richer flavor which imparts an earthy sweetness on dishes. I use Carmel Honey's Company's dark Wildflower in both my tomato sauce and chili (yes!!). I like the depth it adds to both, especially the sauce. It gets rid of that tomato-y tang and mellows out the other ingredients, softening the sharp flavors of the garlic and other spices. It's usually a heaping tablespoon which should do it. If not then an extra teaspoon should do it both the sauce  and chili. Dark or light honey is also a great add in to different viniagrettes. It balances out the vinegar and adds a sweet earthiness. One great recipe is mixing light honey with olive oil and apple cider vinegar. Add salt  and pepper along with a mix of orange zest and fresh orange juice for a tasty dressing for  grilled chicken salad. The dressing gives the salad a Mandarin chicken kind of vibe. Add some fresh ginger for zing and sesame seeds for more flavor.

Honey and chicken pair well together. A fun weekday dinner idea is honey garlic chicken. It's a perfect meld of sweet and savory,Vinegar and soy sauce give the recipe that zing while light honey balances it out. To really spice it up add some sriracha sauce to it for some fire. Honey also works well as a glaze for both chicken and Cornish hens. One recipe involves  frozen orange  concentrate, lemon juice, garlic and thyme mixed with the sweet. There's also onion powder and soy sauce mixed in.It's an easy cook being boiled together in a microwave for two to three minutes (it may take longer depending on your microwave). Keep in mind that honey burns all too quickly and when you're oven roasting a chicken or game hens , baste with the honey glaze after about forty-five minutes in the oven. If the skin is burning but the meat is still raw, tent the chicken with aluminum foil to prevent burning. This will also keep cooking the chicken or Cornish hens. Of course there's nothing like honey glazed ham.It's usually pared with brown sugar for a sweet , crunchy covering that works well with the ham's saltiness.Honey also works with pork too, especially if it's paired with garlic and soy. it gives a crispness to chops and shoulders while still sealing in the juiciness.

Definitely use honey in your savory dishes. Its' sweetness gives mellowness to sauces while providing flavor to pork and chicken. Make it a part of your cooking for more variety.

Le Bouchon A Hidden Gem Along The Hudson

 Cold Spring New York is one of those idyllic towns with beautiful views of the Hudson River and a thriving riverfront town. It's quaint and picturesque, being only an hour north of New York City.There are some good restaurants there including Le Bouchon,a phenomenal Alsatian French bistro with a lovely outdoor garden.

The quaintness alone can draw anyone into this eatery that even has spaetzles, baked into a chic mac and cheese and a dish of duck confit. The restaurant is located at 76 Main Street,at the corner of Main and Fair Streets. It's on the first floor of  a charming early 19th Century building with a cheery red interior and ample back garden complete with a fountain and brick patio.

Despite its' meagerness , the menu has a wide range of different Alsatian  and American inspired dishes along with craft beers and wines.

I started with their Alsatian onion soup which had a good amount of Gruyere cheese and flavorful onion broth. The onions were plentiful and melt in your mouth tender.

I had to have the charcuterie plate which was a generous mix of mortadella ,prosciutto, salame and an in house pate. This last was interesting. It kind of had a beefy liverwurst quality to it (I didn't ask what it was made from, however). There was also a generous helping of cornichons, those cute but tart little pickles and a small cup of mustard..

Of course I had to have dessert,knowing that French restaurants  always have the best choices. I chose their flaky apple tart with vanilla ice cream.

This was a wonderful confection of sliced apples baked in a choux pastry and served with different berries and vanilla ice cream. The apples and ice cream were perfect together (I suspect that Le Bouchon makes the ice cream ) and the pastry was just buttery and tender. C'est parfait, especially with the accompanying blueberries and blackberries.

Le Bouchon is worth the trip alone to beautiful, picturesque Cold Spring, New York. It is a quaint eatery serving Alsatian food with an American twist. Head up there this fall for a lovely dinner , reminiscent of Northeastern France.