The Lesser Spices

 Let's face it. oregano , rosemary and garlic are the spice stars of any kitchen, whether residential or commercial. They sparkle and shine in sauces and rubs, marinades and vinaigrettes. Yet there are lesser known and used spices that can give oomph to any savory or sweet dish. It's time to get to know them.

Fenugreek is one of those lesser known seasonings. Only a few professional chefs have used it in various sauces and side dishes. Mention it to a home chef and you might be met with a "Huh?". Fenugreek is an herb similar to clover and found mostly in the Mediterranean  region along in South Asia and  southern Europe. The seeds are the part of the flower that's primarily used and the flavor is similar to maple syrup. The Indians eat the fenugreek leaves as a vegetable, It's best in Indian cooking gracing such dishes as aloo methi, a traditional Indian potato curry and methi dal, a dal that also uses the leaves as does the first dish. It's also one of the ingredients in Berbere spice rub which gives the mix a certain sweetness. Caraway is another spice that many home chefs don't know or rarely use. Yet it's a part of everyone's favorite bread - rye. The seeds have been gracing the tasty loaf for centuries. It's used also in biscuits, cakes, stews meat dishes sauerkraut and pickles. Caraway is even used in cheeses. Sprinkle a teaspoon in any stew for more flavor or over a pork roast. Definitely think of it when you're baking bread and want a nice topping.

Cardamon is another spice that's sadly underused in the home kitchen.It has a piny flavor , sort of like rosemary.It's grown in tropical areas like India and Malaysia along with Costa Rica. It's used to flavor basmati rice and curries. It's also a spice that works well with chicken, whether as a rub or as a sweet and savory curry sauce. Use this spice in baking too, Cardamon shortbread cookies are a nice addition to any Christmas cookie table. A flourless chocolate cake laced with it is always a delicious end to a dinner. Coriander is another spice that's only used during pumpkin spice season.It's one of the many spices that gives pumpkin pie and its' offshoots that tangy, sweet taste. It's grown in India and Indonesia and features strongly in both cuisines. It's also used in Mexican, namely in chiles, where it add some sweet zing.Coriander is  a big ingredient in Spanish and Latin recipes as well being part of rubs, sauces and soups. Try a coriander-cumin rub for your pork chops. This is a mix of the spices with hot chili powder, allspice and paprika. Allspice is another under rated spice.It can be found in the Greater Antilles, southern Mexico and Central America. It can be used in flavoring everything from Swedish meatballs to Jamaican jerk chicken.It also works well in spice cakes and cookies, perfect for fall baking. Think a spice cake with cream cheese frosting or streusel muffins, spiked with it.

These are just some of the lesser known spices. However they add big flavor to everything from stew to cakes. Try  them for a different spin on spicy cooking and baking.

Salad Spins

We're probably all sick of salads right now. They were fresh and exciting a few weeks ago, a welcome relief from heavier meals. Now they're becoming a bit pedestrian - with the same ingredients.It's times to change things up a bit with this classic summer dish.

One of the basics of any salad is the right kind of green. Most home chefs settle for iceberg or Romaine. These are fine but you could liven them up with dandelion greens foraged from your backyard or curly endive also known as frisee. Some grocery stores have lamb's lettuce or mache. This can even be grown in your garden. Another garden grown rarity is speckled lettuce that has red tips and a buttery taste. You could add the burgundy colored red lettuce for flair and flavor. This would be good with other lettuces and red cabbage for a truly colorful bite. if you want something tart but interesting then try tatsoi, a popular Asian green with a mustardy taste. A really different variation came from the New York Times Food section on Wednesday.  Angela DiMayuga, the executive chef at Mission Chinese Food New York came up with this cherry salad that has charred scallions and pistachios in it. For another spin the issue also had a cucumber salad from Chef Yewande Komolafe. It has mint and dill in it yogurt dressing

Unusual dressings also give a salad zing. Chef Komolafe's dressing has fried coriander and cumin which is sure to give any bowl of greens zing. There's also Greek yogurt  included - always the perfect base  - mixed with other herbs such as mint dill and parsley. Another must add in is the Middle Eastern za-atar. This on it's own, mixed with olive oil is a great dips for veggies and pita crisps.It has a lemony, herbal flavor  and a crunchy texture. Add some to a cucumber or a baby greens salad. A tablespoon or two should infuse the oil quite well. Fruits have always been a component of dressings. Try raspberries with honey and Greek yogurt. The raspberries are cooked first. then strained to eliminate the pulp and seeds. The syrup can also be used for topping. ice cream too. Balsamic vinegar and blueberries are usually not paired however they do work in a dressing. Honey is also added for sweetness to counteract the vinegar's tanginess.Lemon juice , salt and pepper balance it out. An elegant one with a twist is lavender. Combine dried lavender blossoms with grain mustard, honey, lime olive oil and apple cider vinegar. Add garlic for more flavor. Serve this with fresh  field greens , sprinkled with edible. nasturtium petals,

It's time to give salads a fresh redoing. Either go with unusual greens or dressings with zing.It'll make for a tasty meal or side.

A Military Holiday

Our service people deal with everything , from mortars to snipers. Imagine spending a Thanksgiving with the threat of attack looming over every bite. Yet that's what our almost every branch of our military has gone through for centuries. The upcoming holiday is no different.

Thanksgiving on duty was the main article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. C.J. Chivers, a Times investigative reporter and Pulitzer prize winner , wrote about how our armed services celebrate. There are also stories from former and current military members, some funny , most poignant and unsettling. As per Mr. Chivers, who writes regularly on the Afghan Conflict, the US has spent nineteen years fighting the war on terrorism with a few million American service members celebrating away from home and family. Earlier in the year, The Times contacted veterans about their experiences and asked for pictures too. Thanksgivings were varied, depending on the base. Troops at midsized bases found that the military or their peers put out traditional spreads.Full turkey dinners were saved at one base thanks with the help of the U.S.N.S.  GySgt. Fred W. Stockham's merchant mariners. Ethan Frisch , an aid worker for Aga Khan Foundation who worked on rural infrastructure in Afghanistan bought two scrawny turkeys and butchered them himself. He flavored them with local wild cumin and coriander seeds.

The problem with a holiday  - any holiday in a war zone - is that the wars don't stop. (although there was the famed Christmas Truce of 1914 where British  and French troops had a temporary truce with the German army). Turkey and phone calls can only go so far. They're basically band aids plastered over an always bleeding wound.Many enlisted know this. One, Sgt Michelle Estabrook Kuranishi did her best to cobble together a holiday meal with a fellow Marine. They managed to put together a traditional dinner, thanks to scrounging through  enough care packages to acquire pumpkin filling for pies and enough stuffing to feed their group. Finally she could briefly forget the recently tragic past where the two peers she had trained were killed in Ramadi in central Iraq.  This holiday meal included her partner, Master Sgt. Brett Angus who was tall ,lanky and enjoyed a good prank, esp
ecially when it came to Sgt. Estabrook Kuranishi. The happiness, if it could be called that was short lived. The next day Master. Sgt, Angus was killed when he investigated their bomb detecting robot that had been blown up. Now Thanksgiving has a resonance  for her, one shared with those who have survived their tours of duty. The fact that she is still alive fourteen years later has made her grateful for the life that was spared.

War is hell.  A holiday spent in a war zone even more so. We can't make it better for our military where they're stationed. We sure as hell can make it better for them when they return.

A Trio Of New Spices

Trying new spices are always fun. One of my favorite spice companies Pereg has come out with a trio of new ones. They're interesting and can be used in a variety of ways.

One of my favorites is their Everything But The  Bagel mix of sesame and poppy seeds, onions garlic , salt and pepper.Imagine if you can just eat the top of the everything bagel. I actually put a few sprinkles on a pretzel bagel .

It was like eating an everything bagel. I plan on making rolls with the tops dipped in it sometime mid week. (which will be posted with step by step instructions).

The next two spices are variations of hawaij ,a Yemeni  spice that has two variations.One is savory and made with cumin, tumeric,coriander, black pepper, cardamon and cloves. it can be used in soups and  rubs. I decided to go a different route - I used it to spice up my batter for cauliflower.

It is a regular vegan batter-made with just almond milk, water and flour. I add two and a half teaspoons full of the savory hawaij. 

This is the finished product. They were double dipped between dredgings to produce and cooked in my air fryer (there will be a whole how to on Monday) at 350 F for fifteen minutes. The taste had an Indian vibe thanks to the turmeric . They were tasty and I plan on using the savory hawaij in minestrones and maybe on potatoes and onion too.

Then there is the sweet hawaij.

This is a blend of ginger,cinnamon, cloves and cardamon. I mixed it with Kava coffee , sugar (a lot) and milk. 

I also sprinkled it on the top of the whipped cream for a coffee bar touch. It was interesting and reminded me of the pastries I've had at a Palestinian bakery in Paterson NJ

. It's supposed to be used for pancakes and meatballs but I may try it in meringue  batter  to spike it or again with coffee.

Pereg has outdone themselves again with three new spice blends. They're great for revving up something as simple as bagels and cauliflower or as complex as a coffee blend. Try them for a unique flavor experience.

Glaze or Frosting?

One of the toughest choices a home baker has to make is how to finish a cake, cupcake or cookie/ Do you go with the satiny, glossy glaze or the fluffy, buttery frosting? Therein lies the question. what works?.

I tackled this question last month, going into a great deal about the different types of icing out there. Now I will be making spice cake cupcakes from a Duncan Hines mix. Originally, I wanted to top them off with a frosting. Since the cake has more or less the same spices as carrot cake a cream cheese frosting would make sense. It has a tang to it that would work well with the cinnamon, allspice, coriander, ginger, and nutmeg. I even planned to use my new cake decorating set from Wilton, dreams of curlicues and roses dancing in my baker's head, Unfortunately, the frosting may be a bit overpowering in taste, the spices and the blend of cream cheese , butter  and vanilla competing with each other. Should I go with a plain buttercream?  Not enough oomph, and too dull. What about another spice cake topper - maple buttercream which sounds too super sweet. It is  -  paired with confectioners and in some recipes  - brown sugar. The taste alone would drown out the cake - not something I want in a frosting.

Inspiration came in the form of my favorite bakery. The B&W Bakery of Hackensack, New Jersey  has recipes from the original German owners. Even though the current owners are now Korean, they kept many of the original ones for cakes and icings. One is a spice cupcake with a chocolate icing glaze. Bingo!!! That 's what I want. The dark, earthy cocoa  notes will work well with the spices, highlighting them,, instead of smothering their different and unique flavors.It also won't' be that sweet either  since a few glaze recipes are only comprised of chocolate and whole cream. The question is what would be the best glaze? There are several recipes I found on the web. There is the one mentioned above that requires only scalding the cream and adding semi-sweet chocolate chips. I am leaning towards that one. Another calls for granulated sugar and cocoa powder. These are sifted together  and then warm water and butter are added to give it that liquidy glossiness. What is good about using a glaze is that it's easy to use on any baked good.  Just dip the cupcake tops into it, then twist them to get rid of the excess . That's it. No fancy squiggles or buds. It's easy and the cupcakes will look elegant as oppsed to just cute. I may add a candy heart on each cupcake, but that will be enough .

A  chocolate glaze is going to be perfect for my spice cupcakes. It'll not only highlight the cakes' flavor but also give them a lovely, classy look. Perfect to look at and perfect to eat.

Masala Explained

Masala is a staple in Indian cooking.It is a blend of various spices that vary from region to region and family to family. Getting the right flavor can be tricky.However , with practice even American home chefs can create the perfect masala. Once made it can be added to anything from barbecue  to even mashed potatoes.

Kim Severson wrote about the classic flavoring in yesterday's New York Times Food section. She had help thanks to Raghavan Iyer who has written books and conducted demonstrations on how to cook food of the Subcontinent. She caught him as he was giving advice and lessons to the cafeteria cooks at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia.Mr Iyer goes to various campuses , both academic and corporate to teach cooks and workers how to cook Indian food. it is popular now thanks to a large influx of Indian workers and students.It also makes a nice change from the usual cafeteria food too.lt does have to be made according to the original recipe due to cultural awareness. Teaching how to make any ethnic meal properly is valuable and important in respecting the various cultures that make up the country.Many cafeteria workers, like home chefs, have no idea what to do with the wide array of spices that are vital in Indian cuisine. Mr. Iyers demystifies that , explaining how one kind of spice can be prepared three different ways.

Masala is an easy prep, once home chefs get the hang of making it.The trickiest part, according to Mr. Iyer is getting the yellow split peas and spices called for the recipe.It requires fresh curry leaves which can easily be bought at Indian and international markets. They are not required but do add an anise like flavor to the mix.  Home chefs can customize the recipe to their tastes. The recipe given is sambhar masala from Southern India  and is Mr Iyer's mother-in-law's recipe. It is a melange of different seeds, from the common such as cumin, poppy, coriander and mustard to the exotic fenugreek. Curry leaves are added, and again, no sweat if they can;t be found.There are also Thai or cayenne chilis added for heat and cinnamon for sweetness. They have to be cooked with sesame oil until the split peas turn brown and the mustard seeds pop. Half the mixture is then put into a spice or coffee grinder.Grind until the texture is like that of finely ground pepper. It can be stored for up to two months,It is versatile. It can be made into a quick curry if it's added to shrimp and coconut milk or make grilled veggies more exotic. Mr. Iyers likes to add it and clarified butter or ghee to mashed potatoes.Home chefs can try it with anythig , from kebobs, to roasts for a true Indian flavor.

Home chefs will love cooking with masala once they deconstruct it. It's a spice mix that's rapidly gaining fans and favor  thanks to its' versatility.Make it and liven up any dish with its' smokey, sweet fieriness.

An Exotic Turn On Rice

Rice is one of those easy summer dishes,It can be used as a hot dish with sauteed zucchini or as a salad with chopped onions and pepper strips. However, for a real twist use the Indian basmati rice. This is a perfect side and ingredient to any summer meal.

Dave Tanis praised it in his weekly column A City Kitchen in yesterday;s New York Times Dining section. Basmati rice has a sweet flavor and a delicate texture , different from the ordinary boiled in a minute kind.It is also a staple of Indian cooking and offsets the fiery flavors of that cuisine. Basmati rice also goes well with summer corn, which is  popular on the subcontinent.It can grace a pilaf or a puleo, giving it more sweetness and color.Mr. Tanis decided to combine the two into an interesting pilaf.

He makes this as a vegan recipe.It has the saffron and turmeric for color along with coriander and cumin for bite and heat. Since this is meatless , he adds cashews for crunch and protein as well as raisins for sweetness and chewiness.. He serves this withthe side dish  raita.This is a fiery mix of jalapeno and yogurt along with mustard seeds. Vegetable oil and mint are used to give the dip its' smoothness and coolness. As Mr. Tanis did, the two dishes can be served with a plate of fresh from the farm tomatoes. You could add some grilled chicken or even shrimp to the rice if you want it to be more substantial.

Basmati rice is a nice sub for the regular one. Add some farm fresh corn to it for added sweetness along withthe usual  fiery Indian spices.It's an easy summer dish with the taste of the exotic

Smorgasbord Revisited

Minnesota has always been known for its' rich Scandinavian heritage. It was here that multitudes of Norwegians and Swedish settled this wilderness.With them came an equally rich culinary history that went by the wayside. However thanks to many loyal chefs , the hearty fish and meat dishes of the past are coming back.

Julia Moskin wrote about the Scandinavian food comeback in today's New York Times Dining section.  For a long time newer immigrants stamped their cooking tradition on Minneapolis/St.Paul area. There were more tacos and bao rolls than lutefisk and glug.That's all changing. There's the reappearance of smorgas or open face sandwiches along with the fave kladdkaka or sticky chocolate cake,A new breed of chefs are also coming to the Twin Cities , bringing with them true recipes. One is Swedish American chef Paul Bergelund who cooks with the the three Scandinavian musts, butter bread and fish.Butter is a must in the cooking simply because it was considered gold to the early settlers who came from Norway and Sweden where it was also heavily taxed.

There is also an offshoot to this "Nouvelle Nordic" This involves cooking with the wild rice that is indigenous to northern Minnesota. It was eaten by the local tribes and now is braised in cream to create a luxurious porridge that could be served with either fish or beef. There's also a version of krydderfedt , a  traditional Danish  spread for toast made from rendered fat of various meats.It's now slathered on pickled lake perch.,Spices such as dill and coriander,long staples in both Scandinavian and Scandanavian American households are being twisted in various recipes to give them fire and kick.

The whole Nordic way of life and philosophy has always been deeply ingrained in Minnesotans. Now the traditional menu is also becoming a strong part of of their lives as well. It defines not only their palate but their sturdiness and steel strong sensibility

Spice Rack 101 Part Two

Yesterday we covered a few of the spices that are in that mysterious spice rack everyone owns. Most racks contain at least ten to fifteen bottles , Some contain twenty. Most cooks only use the basic, everyday one s like rosemary or oregano. yet there;s so much more. Not only that, these will liven up any meal and create a wonderful flavors that you'll love!

Chefs love cooking with tarragon , thanks to it;s distinctly fresh from the garden flavor. It's great in delicate chicken and fish sauces but it's also good flavoring chicken or egg salad. Celery seeds are another spice rack staple.These are good flavoring any ham dish ,especially those made with devilled ham .Try them in a ham spread or a dip.Coriander is another spice that's versatile. You can use it to add zing to soups and dips but also to curry dishes. For a more soothing spice, experiment with dried dill. It's a staple for any salmon dish but also makes a wonderful dressing when mixed with sour cream.Serve it over freshly sliced cucumbers.

Spice racks also have their sweet sides too. There;s always cinnamon and nutmeg. We know cinnamon is good in making coffee cakes, muffins and buns. it;s also good spicing up cappuccino and hot cocoa. You can also use it to flavor farina and oatmeal too. Nutmeg is another sweet spice. It;s a great topping fo r homemade egg custards and vanilla puddings.It makes an interesting ingredient to sugar cookie dough . giving a normally bland recipe some fillip. Use it to sprinkle over cappuccino and hot chocolate too.

never be afraid of your spice rack. Try each and every spice to add color and flavor to your dishes.It'll elevate them from ordinary to gourmet!

More On Herbs

Yesterday I wrote about some of the herbs that can be grown in the garden. I covered the basics, oregano, basil and thyme to name a few. There are a few lesser known that can also add to any dish and turn a blah dish into something special. These are easy to grow and to work with in cooking.


Mint is a great addition to any garden. It's bright green leaves are not only a perfect decoration for a rich chocolate dessert but also taste wonderful in Middle Eastern cooking , especially lamb. It brings out flavors and complements the taste of meat, vegetables couscous and fruit. Mint is also good to add to any fresh brewed iced tea. Luckily the plant grows in abundance and you 'll always have enough of it. Another herb that can grow like a weed is dill. You can devote a small patch of yard to it and once grown always have a large harvest. Dill is wonderful with seafood, especially grilled salmon. You can also mix it with sour cream as a wonderful dressing for cucumber salad.

Coriander is another versatile plant to add to your herb garden. Young coriander is cilantro that staple in Mexican and Middle Eastern cooking. it has a sweet taste and can be used in homemade salsa or chilis. The older plant can be used in making sausage as well as in soups and stews to give them more zing. It has a sweet taste bordering between minty and citrus-y. Use it and cilantro in moderation .


These are just some of the options you have with herbs for your garden. Remember that they can add zest to any dish and are great for this summer's barbecues. Plant some of these today to be ready for the warmer weather and harvest time.