Saturday, July 4, 2020

July Fourth Wishes

Have a good July Fourth , whether you celebrate with a socially distanced barbecue or eating outdoors at your favorite diner or restaurant.

Keep in mind that America, like its' cuisine, is  multi ethnic with all sorts of flavors adding to the mix. Like squash , corn and beans we have the Indigenous Peoples who were first here, like the Europeans who brought hamburgers and fries, hot dogs and ice cream, like the African Americans who brought yams and peanuts and like the Asians who brought noodles and soy, we are diversified. 

 Our table is varied.

Sit down together and celebrate it. Enjoy this unique Fourth. Stay safe and full.

Friday, July 3, 2020

A Different July Fourth

This is by far the strangest July Fourth weekend any of us have experienced. As the past few months have taught us anything is that we need to care for our families and others. How do we do that? By offering good food, whether homemade or restaurant bought.

Families can still have barbecues even if they're socially distanced.It can be done. Even if it's just the immediate family there's still can be hot dogs and hamburgers, graced with sides of macaroni and potato salads. If more people are coming then check out Melissa Clark's article in Wednesday's New York Times Food section about a barbecue in the age of Covid 19, There won't be shared ribs or s'mores but you can have delicious grilled chicken that everyone can take off the grill themselves, along with bags of chips and homemade  no bake butterscotch custard. You can still have beach and park picnics if you're six feet apart from everyone. Some snack bars may be closed yet there may be food trucks offering everything from burgers to taco in the beach and park parking lots. If not, then get out the cooler and stuff it with picnic classics. Think hero sandwiches, chock full of such treats as mortadella and prosciutto , graced with tomatoes lettuce and some kind of dressing. For a more sophisticated vibe try pan bagnat the Provencal classic that has everything in it from hard boiled eggs to anchovies in it along with tomatoes and Dijon mustard. Have bottles of sparkling mineral water to wash it down along with flavored seltzers.

If that's not your style, then eat out. Many restaurants and even diners are now offering outdoor dining, perfect for the evenings. Event tents are popping up in their parking lots , protecting tables and customers. They're worth visiting (although if it looks too crowded, think about ordering the food and bringing it home). There's something about dressing up after three months of lock down wearing ratty clothes and actually eating something you personally haven't slaved over. It's time to get that shrimp cocktail with the giant shrimps or the filet mignon with pomme frites. Better yet it's ordering all the fun food like pot stickers or mozzarella sticks , washing them down with fancy drinks or large refreshing glasses of iced tea. For those who love the different ethnic cuisines, it's spending a warm night enjoying pasta under the stars or chicken curry amidst balmy breezes. Take advantage of the coffee shops and bakeries too.  Some also have tables and chairs set up on their sidewalks too. Meet friends for iced coffee and cupcakes and catch up on what's been going on.

Yes, this will be a July Fourth for the books. Make the most of it. Use it as a template for the holidays to come. Just remember to care for family and friends. Offer them good food, whether from your grill or your favorite restaurant,



Thursday, July 2, 2020

The Forgotten Black WIne Professionals

It's strange to think that the wine industry can have prejudices. One would think the industry would be above that be and be more sophisticated and color blind. Yet it's not. There's a shocking amount of prejudice against people of color in every aspect , from sommelier to grower to reviewer. Hopefully, with the world rapidly changing it will be a thing of a past era.

Eric Asimov, who writes The Pour, the New York Times Food section's weekly wine review, wrote about this blatant but very rarely discussed racism. He interviewed African-Americans in from all aspects of the wine industry. All had the same experiences  which should never exist - not in the 21st Century, yet are still alive sadly enough. Mr. Asimov spoke with T.J. Douglas owner of The Urban Grape in Boston. He and his wife, Hadley, have this shop and also the business online. A white internet customer came into the store, walked by Mr. Douglas and went to a white sales rep, assuming he was the owner. Then there is Julia Coney, a Houston, wine writer and educator who regularly leads tasting and teaches wine education. yet as a consumer, wine merchants feel they have to tell her how to hold a wine glass and why she has to swirl it. They also steer her towards cheaper and sweeter wines, based on stereotypes.Growing tired of tokenism, she has created Black Wine Professionals, a database for African American wine growers and sellers. Stephen Satterfield , publisher of the quarterly food magazine, Whetstone. He was a sommelier but left due to the rampant racism.

Perhaps the most obvious is with Ntisiki Biyela, a South African wine marker. The industry has been white for the last four centuries, no surprise because the country suffered from apartheid since the early 1990's. Ms. Biyela was the first female black winemaker and in 2016 established her own company, Aslina Wines. Hers was the toughest battle (although all their battles were the toughest). She could not speak Afrikaans ,an offshoot of the Dutch accent and her fellow students asked why she was even there.  "You're not welcome here." was really its' undercurrent. Then as she moved into her career , growers didn't want to deal with her along with building an audience. Black South Africans are not versed in European wine speak. Ms. Biyela had to explain it in terms they would understand. Instead of a wine smelling like truffles  she would tell them it smells like amasi a sort of fermented milk. Others , from Carlton McCoy Junior, a master sommelier and Madeline Maldonado, a beverage distributor at Greenwich Village's Da Toscano have experienced white people's ignorance and stupidity.It is the same for wine server Andre Hueston Mack and Zwann Grays, the wine director at Olmsted. Yet it is Tammie Teclemriam, a Brooklyn freelance food and drinks writer who fired a good shot at Bon Appetit's editor-in-chief and his insensitivity towards African-Americans, and appearing in black face.He had to resign because of it.

The wine  industry, like the food industry should be free of prejudice and open to everyone. It's stupid and 19th Century to think that whites are better sommeliers and winemakers. Luckily it's the writers and publishers who will be shattering these old concepts.


Wednesday, July 1, 2020

The New Barbecue

Even a deadly virus can't stop a summer get together. We can still have our barbecues but with new rules. We can still have friends and family over but with strict guidelines.One thing that will not change will be delicious food over a grill. Thankfully that will be the same.

Melissa Clark tackled this all important issue in today's New York Times Food section, She , her husband and their daughter were not satisfied with the Zoom meetings with their circle.There was a feeling of disconnect. They longed for the time when they could entertain again, socially distanced face to face.A July 4th barbecue is the perfect way of reconnecting and catching up. Yes, there will be rules which we should all follow. Even though most of the experts agree that catching Covid 19 from touching surfaces is low, under ideal conditions the virus can last three days with ideal conditions.Quarantine items, especially those wrapped in plastic for three days and then unpacking them with gloved hands lowers the risk considerably. Nix the bowls of pretzels and potato chips. Offer everyone individual bags of snacks and wrapped cans of seltzer. Ask about the bathroom in the evites. One person at a time should be allowed in your house. He or she should wear a mask and close the lid before flushing. Make sure there are plenty of paper towels and hand sanitizer along with disinfecting wipes and a spray bottle filled with seventy percent isopropyl alcohol for wiping down door knobs and handles.

As for the actual serving, take the food directly from the grill and onto your guests' plates or have them do it themselves with their own utensils. What food would work with this? Ms. Clark suggests gingery grilled chicken thighs with charred peaches,They don''t need to be handled after cooking. Other suitable choices are hamburgers, hot dogs and fish fillets. There's no need for salads or extras.As for condiments, either have bottles of ketchup and mustard along with salt and pepper packets for guests. You could also have the condiments in ramekins however that would require anywhere from fifteen to twenty. A better choice would be bathroom cups which can be thrown out afterwards. If you want to make any prepared food, again follow the three day quarantine rule. Ms. Clark and her husband made a log of jalapeno -feta butter which would go with their grilled corn but it can also work with any grilled veggie from eggplant to peppers, mushrooms and zucchini. Dessert is no bake butterscotch custards served in individual ramekins. They're a mix of creme fraiche and heavy cream, cooked with dark brown sugar and unsulphured molasses. As much as you want, s'mores will have to be put off til next year.

Yes we can have barbecues again. They will have to be small and we'll have to sit six feet apart. yet we can still enjoy good food and good company.

Tuesday, June 30, 2020

Refreshing Ades

The temps are up. The humidity is crushing. It's time to make refreshing thirst quenching ades that cool you down. They're easy to recreate and wonderful to sip, especially on a hot night.

One of the most refreshing and popular is agua fresca. This can be made with any fresh fruit and even veggies such as cucumber. It goes back to Aztec times when it was made to appease the gods' thirst. Now it can satisfy ours.It's simply fresh chopped fruit, water, and sugar. They can be made in a blender or using an immersion blender. A fun one is the watermelon  flavored, made with about four cups of watermelon chunks  , muddled with three cups of water, two tablespoons of sugar and the juice of one lime. It's a quick blitz and then serve over ice. Another fun and tropical twist is using pineapple. You may not need as much sugar for this one. For a truly refreshing agua fresca, think cucumbers.  You will need more sugar - about half a cup for two cucumbers and one half cup of lime juice.Mint leaves can be added for more refreshment.Another great cooler from Mexico is horchata. Again, this is another easy mix. It's taking long grained white rice that's been cooked, along with almonds and cinnamon sticks and blitzing them in a blender or with an immersion blender.It;'s then adding water and vanilla. Milk is added when it's ready to be chilled for a few hours.

Ades are an old fashioned way to quench your thirst when the temps go high. One of the most popular is lemonade. Keep in mind that the recipe starts with simple syrup and not sugar tossed in. Sugar will sink to the pitcher's bottom and you'll be left with a sour drink. Simple syrup is just that, a cooked syrup made with only a cup of sugar and  a cup of water boiled together. It;s then stirring them together over a low flame until a syrup is created.  You can add fresh lemon juice if you want a more lemony flavor. It's then adding one cup of fresh or bottled lemon juice and two to three cups of ice cold water. Mix and chill. You can add a few to a 1/3 cup crushed fresh mint leaves if you want.Limeade is another refreshing summer cooler. It takes seven large limes and five cups of water. Add simple syrup to sweeten it and served, iced with sliced limes. You can also do the same with oranges for a refreshing hot afternoon treat.  You'll need seven to eight medium sized oranges along with  a third of a cup of lemon juice to balance the flavor. Again use about a  half cup of the simple syrup to sweeten the drink.

This is the time of year for thirst quenching drinks. Make up an icy pitcher of any of them to cool off.They're the perfect sip for a hot , steamy day.

Monday, June 29, 2020

Cool Cooking On Hot Days

 Hardly anyone will want to be in a hot kitchen after being in one for three months. Then it's summer - when roasting or sauteing anything can be a chore. The best bet? Cool dishes for a hot summer. These are lifesavers and just make lunch and dinner easier.

One of the chillest and tastiest is gazpacho. This Spanish classic is an easy make, especially if you follow Susan Lewis Solamont's, the former Ambassador to Spain's wife recipe for it. It's blitzing a cucumber, tomatoes, onions and garlic with olive oil and red wine vinegar. It's a wonderful dinner , especially when served with crusty sliced boules drizzled with olive oil.It's also good leftover for lunch the next day. Vichyssoise is another example of a chill soup. This is  a creamy leek and potato soup introduced in 1917 at the Ritz-Carlton to cool off diners. You can make chef Louis Diat's original recipe that calls for Yukon Gold potatoes, leeks and onions. It can be made vegan with subbing in vegetable broth for chicken and almond milk and coconut cream for regular milk and whole cream. If you don't want soup, then think salad.  Salad Nicoise is a lush salad with sliced hard boiled eggs, tuna, green beans and tomatoes along with black olives on a bed of Boston lettuce . You can add radishes for crunch and bite and the traditional Dijon mustard based vinaigrette too. Another crowd pleaser is Cobb salad, rich with bacon, avocado slices and chicken breasts.along with a variety of different greens like Boston lettuce, watercress and frisee.

Pasta may not be what you want on a hot afternoon but a pasta salad is another thing. Try an Italian style one with precooked pasta.Barilla brands has a wide variety of noodles that have been already boiled. Just open a packet and mix with slices of summer sausage and sliced cherry tomatoes. Throw in some chopped black olives and parsley for a hearty but cool dinner. Precooked pasta with salsa cruda is another temperature cooling dish on a hot night. The sauce is easy to make. It's just cut ripe tomatoes mixed with olive oil, thyme and basil. Some recipes call for a tablespoon or two of balsamic vinegar but you can also use red wine if you want to. Add some sliced Italian bread to sop up the sauce. Veggie tacos made with an array of fresh produce is a great week night meal. Sliced tomatoes along with julienned peppers and carrots make the filling. You can also add celery and any kind of lettuce for crunch and color. Top with salsa, guacamole and/or sour cream for extra richness. Hummus is an easy no cook dip that works well as a meal with pita wedges. Put in some hot pepper flakes or black olives for more flavor.

It's summer and it's time for cool,tasty meals. Don't go crazy cooking hot food in a hot kitchen. You've been doing such for months. Chill with chill meals.

Saturday, June 27, 2020

The State Of Food Now

It's been a little over three months that our lives, and our eating habits have been changed. Not only that our shopping has also been altered. Have we adapted? It's an interesting question.

The Corona virus has  upset everything and definitely changed the whole modern food chain, from how our food is grown and caught to how we eat.  The New York Times Food section this past Wednesday ran an article about the salmon industry and how the virus impacted it. Julia O'Malley wrote about how out of staters come to the Naknek area for the work. They either work fishing or processing. The businesses have to be shut down meaning there's no work and no products going out to the stories and buyers. It has hit hard for Brian Nicolson, a Brooklyn winemaker who returns to his family business in this Alaskan outback. Farms across the country are also affected.Some will prosper. Some will not. Thanks to the restaurants closing down or limiting their services, many farms have suffered. Many crops have had to be destroyed. Now with bans being lifted, the farms can make a comeback. It's just a matter of keeping the workers safe, despite the bad workplace conditions and the lack of medical benefits for them.

Thankfully the shortages have more or less stopped. It was bad, with farmers killing off livestock because they couldn't sell the meat. It seemed they were more catering to the restaurants because home chefs were stockpiling every kind from frozen nuggets to fresh hams.The flour shortage due to people going wild for home baking is also over. We realize that we have the capacity to be hoarders, especially when it comes to such essentials as milk , bread, eggs and cold cuts. Yet we also have the hidden capacity to be fearless home chefs and bakers. Being quarantined has retaught us to read through cookbooks that have been collecting dust for years and use such gadgets as corers and ravioli cutters that have been sitting idle in kitchen drawers. There has also a down side. As people binged watched their favorite shows and movies they also binged ate. Snack sales went up tremendously. People wanted comfort foods, from Oreos, and their counterparts (try the Acme's Tuxedo brand of sandwich cookies) to potato chips and pork rinds. Home bakers indulged on frosting rich cakes and butter laden cookies. Hopefully this is over and we can appreciate the fresh fruit and veggies of the season for a quick bite.

How have we adapted? How has our country adapted? The answer varies depending on who you talk to or what you read. We did relearn to cook and bake which is always good. Yet we also discovered our dark side when it came to hoarding and binging.