Saturday, February 20, 2016

Africa's Culinary's Contribution

February is Black History  Month,and African Americans have contributed a multitude of inventions, years of service and ideas to the American landscape. They have also contributed a wide variety of food and techniques to our culinary landscape as well. It is am impressive list, with a lasting impact.

Ask most Euro- Americans what African Americans have given to us food wise and they'll all say "Soul Food." That's correct however that's only one facet . They were responsible for much of our agriculture.One of the most important staples the enslaved have given us is rice cultivation. The first seeds came to the North American from Madagascar in 1685. By the 1750's it was one of the biggest staple of the Southern colonies. Senegalese "workers" taught colonists how to plant and cultivate the crop. They also brought cattle raising as well thanks to  the Fulani or Fula people from Semegambia . They were expert cattlemen , and showed white masters the African husbandry patterns of open grazing and artificial insemination.. Our modern term cowboy comes form them. Those that worked with the steer were called such. The Fulani people  also introduced the idea of drinking milk  for sustenance, a food concept so deeply ingrained in our culture , that's it;'s a given that we give kids milk.Food contributions are legendary, from okra to black eyed peas to yams. These have all added to our diets as well as expanding our palates' worlds.Peanuts were their most famous gift, It did start off in Brazil but Portuguese sailors brought it to Africa where it was embraced by locals.

African American cooks and chefs have also contributed a multitude of delicious dishes to the American cookbook. Cornbread is one of their biggest contributions., first having been made as a mush from corn meal. This pone was also similar to a dish called Eba where we get the modern day grits. Fufu is the grandfather of our modern day hoecakes and pancakes, first having been made with palm oil and flour. The ultimate Southern dish, fried chicken comes from plantation kitchens, with the enslaved bringing the traditional deep fried cooking technique to the colonies. Deep frying is actually a preservation technique, similar to heavy salting to preserve not only fowl but also beef.Soul food , of course is another big contribution but it has sad origins. It came from the refuse that plantation owners let their enslaved workers have for sustenance. They were also given a small plot of land to grow vegetables. too. Dinners were usually hamhocks with turnip greens or collards, staples that are eaten today by all Americans.It was washed down with coffee, another African import , from Ethopia's Kaffa region hence the name. Watermelon also came over with the enslaved as did Kola nuts which gives the base for the greatest American invention of all time Coca-Cola.

Without all these contributions American cuisine would not be as tasty or as varied. The African Americans gave us a good portion of our culinary history. They should be lauded for this along with their sacrifices for America.

Friday, February 19, 2016

All Steamed Up

Vegetables are an important part of any meal but especially dinner time. The problem with that is that they have to be made after a busy day when most home chefs are too tired to do anything. Cleaning, coring, paring - they're all too  much. What to do? Get steamed! Steamed veggies are the way to go for a  quick yet healthy dinner.

Many companies from Stop & Shop to the mainstream Bird's Eye are now offering steamer bags full of veggies. They can be put into  the microwave for a few minutes or the vegetables can be removed and simmered for five minutes in boiling water.The first method is the easiest. It works like a bag of popcorn with the bag puffing up after a few minutes in the microwave to signal that the veggies have been thoroughly steamed. The second method, the old fashioned way is for those who don't like the idea of nuked foods.It's a tad more labor intensive with salting and boiling the water ,then adding the vegetables and draining them. One of the best things, besides the cooking time,is the variety.I am in love with the Stop & Shop vegetable varieties, from the peas which are oh so sweet to the Brussels sprouts. They even have mixed veggie bags as does their national rival Bird's Eye.Of course, Bird's Eye has always been the king of frozen veggies and they have the widest choice of steamed vegetables.. They include rice and veggie bags, with combinations such as multigrain blend with tomato, spinach and onions along with brown rice with peas, carrots and corn.

There are many pluses to having a bag of steamed vegetables on the menu.They are a low calorie alternative to calorie dense sides such as baked mac or French fries.The Brussels sprouts are only forty-five calories with zero fat while string beans are around thirty-eight. Any home chef will marvel at the packs' versatility too. One of my favorites is string bean salad, made with the cooled beans . After they've been steamed  they're put into a bowl and then cooled for ten to fifteen minutes.After that, it's adding a finely chopped onion or even a good dash of onion powder, olive oil and red wine vinegar . Then it's back into the fridge to chill some more until dinner.It's a taste of summer in winter, and perfect with grilled chicken. Thanks to the easiness of cooking the Brussels sprouts,I can make a family recipe more often.It's a delicious  side that starts off with a very small sprinkle of Parmesan cheese  on the sprouts followed by a scant  tablespoon of melted margarine (it used to be butter but that stopped ,thanks to my new diet). The veggies can be mixed with instant rice, whether brown or white for simple and filling rice bowls Just add some Kikoman and they're good to go.

Get steamed when you think about steamed veggies. They're an easy and nutritious side to any main meal. Buy a few bags for quick cooking and good eating.

Thursday, February 18, 2016

Hearty Veggie Soups

One of the best meals on a cold, wintry night is hot soup. It's even better if it's chock full of vegetables.They're not only healthy but tasty too, filled with all sorts of different kinds of greens and fungi. it's a nice way of getting a good dose of nutrients while shaking off a February chill.

Melissa Clark knows this and wrote about it in her A Good Appetite Column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. She gives us three soups, golden leek and potato soup,mushroom-spinach and one that's kind of outside the box caramelized kohlrabi.These can be tweaked with different add ins or whatever can be found in the freezer and the fridge.Just keep the basic vegetables required, in other words, roots for roots, leafy greens for leafy greens , and other alliums for garlic.Another suggestion is  caramelizing the veggies. This eliminates the needs for using stocks or meats to give the soups depth and richness. The veggies melt down to give an intense broth of their own Ms. Clark also recommends using a lot of salt, namely the vastly intense kosher kind.If you need to add stock use the homemade kind.Ms. Clark warns against using the canned or boxed. I usually go for the HerbOx veggie broth cubes which impart a mild yet flavorful taste.Aromatics also count here. Add plenty of them, from herbs to spices to garlic and onions.These are not time intensive recipes luckily , and can be made up within twenty minutes. Home chefs could double the recipe and then freeze what's left for  those busy week nights when cooking is not an option.

The soups are not your usual veggie blends. The first, golden leek and potato starts with a base of golden brown leeks which impart a lovely  sweet taste. There are more of them than potatoes so it does have  more of an  onion-y flavor.Parsley, sage and thyme zing it up, eliminating the usual blandness that sometimes accompanies this soup.You could add chives too as well as scallions for more bite A drizzle of cream is used to decorate the soup afterwards. Her mushroom spinach soup is zested up with Middle Eastern spices such as cumin, coriander, cinnamon and allspice. The mushrooms are mixed with a blend of cremini, oyster,chanterelles and shiitake, chopped and mixed with baby spinach leaves. This really shouldn't be changed, The veggies and spices work well together and give a walk through a souk vibe.Ms. Clakr adds a dollop of yogurt on top for more authenticity.if you want. Serve with hot toasted pita that can be dipped into the soup. The wild card in the trio is caramelized kohlrabi. a kind of turnip,Turnips can be used in this too.. The first step is caramelizing them in a broiler s the onion and garlic are being sauteed. The veggie mix is then pureed  using an immersion blender for a creamy texture.It's topped off with a drizzle of olive oil, grated Parmesan and pinch of chili powder.

Nothing beats a bowl of hot vegetable soup, especially when they provide rich, deep flavor. Make any of these, from the leek and potato to the mushroom spinach to the caramelized kohlrabi. These are perfect to keeping away from February's icy chill.


Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Atlanta The New Food Mecca Of The South

Atlanta is known for a variety of different things, mostly business and entertainment. It's never been  known for food, unless you count true Southern cuisine like creamed  grits and collards.However that's all changing. The city's chefs are still retaining the aura but adding new dishes and and livening up palates with exotic meals made with good old fashioned Southern produce and meat

It was the subject of an article written by Kim Severson in today's New York Times Food section. Ms. Severson,a Southerner herself, visited the city , stopping in on some of its' best restaurants and interviewing a variety of different chefs.For a long time Atlanta was in the culinary shadow of Nashville, and Chalreston. That's all changing thanks to the city coming out of the recession. The core of the city, what locals call intown Atlanta . also has contributed thanks to cheaper rents and chefs who are happy  to stay where they are. There is still a Southern vibe but married with an international one. It's locavore cooking , with an emphasis on produce and meats from farms on the city's outskirts.Uni or seas urchin is served with salsa verde and buttered turnips. South Carolina golden rice is transformed into risotto with figs and sunchokes.Revival restaurant's chef  , Kevin Gillespie. has cornbread that 's been baked in a cast iron skillet., fatback fried Silver Queen Corn and catfish smothered in tomato gravy.It's surprising that his menu doesn't include Mason jar sof sweet teas or Dr Pepper (although he does have dessert featuring Dr.Pepper iced cream).

The food scene does have its' problems. Diners order way too many steaks along with judging a restaurant not on its' food or chef but on its' appearance.Food critics worry that the city is more into chasing trends or turning out a peanut hummus (???). There is also the dilemma of Atlanta being a male chef only kind of place with little or none famous female chefs.The fact that it is a big city, and spread out is another headache. There  re divides too, cultural, geographic and even racial that impede an eatery from being a popular one.Most of the city's 5.5 million residents live on the outskirts and stick to their neighborhood places,If you want exotic food such as South Korea, Vietnam and Mexico along with a few other nationalities remain concentrated on the Buford Highway ,a busy highway that stretches into the city's northernmost , and densely populated suburbs.It will take a few years for Atlanta to truly find itself, according to Tami Cook, a culinary producer and recipe developer who used to work for an Atlanta food luminary . Alton Brown.

Atlanta is a city in culinary transformation.It is firmly tied to its' past with local produce and recipes but strives to create a fresh face. Luckily it  has chefs , loyalty and low rents to help it achieve this

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Use Your Cellophane Noodles

If you want to add an air of authenticity along with excitement to your home cooked Chinese meals throw in some cellophane noodles. They're a fun way of amping up any dish along with helping to buffer  the sometimes strong flavors of Szechuan or Cantonese cuisine. Another plus is that they're an easy cook, perfect for adventurous novice home chefs.

Cellophane noodles are really thin white vermicelli , made clear from their mostly starch composition. They are made primarily from mung beans a, green pea grown in India however they can also be made from yams,potatoes and cassava, a yam type vegetable and canna starch, derived from a tropical Vietnamese lily.Most  cellophane  noodles sold in the States are made from mung beans, having been imported from China. The noodles are generally round and come in different lengths. There is a flat , thick sheet version, not widely sold here or used in cooking. The noodles are sometimes called crystal or glass noodles or bean thread noodles. They originated in northeastern China in the town in Zhangxing in the Zhaoyuan , Shandong province however they are also made in the southern part of the country too. Uncooked cellophane noodles come in nests that slowly unwind when placed in boiling water. They are usually used in spring rolls, stir fries and soups. Some Northern Chinese employ them as the main ingredient in salads where they're first cooked then cooled. You can buy them here in the States, in packs of three in the Asian food section of any supermarket.

Cellophane noodles are as easy as any pasta to make.It's just adding them to boiling water and letting cook for twenty minutes or until the color changes. They will go from white and brittle to clear  and pliable.  They're excellent with a simple stir fry, definitely adding to the dish's texture and taste. Their flavor is mild, not unlike pasta which makes them a perfect foil for the peppery, gingery tastes of Chinese cooking. My mother has been making them since the late Seventies when the wok craze hit the US(we were the only family on the block with a wok,but that's another story) and this recipe is one of her best. The main dish is stir frying  a bag of soy beef crumbles (for non vegans, you can use a mix of ground beef and pork) and sauteing in olive or peanut oil.  I prefer the first, because it imparts a richer smoother flavor and fries up well. Diced scallions and minced garlic are also added for flavor along with three to four tablespoons of Kikoman soy sauce. Again like the olive oil, this is the best to use because of its' rich  intense flavor. I added  two cups of snow peas which give color and crunch, but peas or even shredded cabbage. Mix in the noodles when they're cooked, and serve. It;s a wonderful and simple dinner that's just downright yummy. Usually two nests will satisfy a family of four and you can use  the uncooked ones as fresh cooked noodles when you reheat  the leftovers.

Cellophane noodles are a great and authentic addition to any home made stir fry. Their uniqueness livens up simple ingredients like meat and veggies They are fun to cook and fun to eat.

Monday, February 15, 2016

Recipes From The White House

Our US presidents and their wives have given us some good recipes over the years. They are vast and varied , from LBJ's chili and barbecue to Dolly Madison 's bouillon to Mamie Eisenhower's fudge.However it;s the house it;self, The People's House that has contributed some excellent recipes to the American culinary landscape.

One of the most varied White House eras was during Thomas Jefferson's term.He was huge Francaphile, often bringing home fancy French recipes to a simple , almost primitive kitchen. However he was also an Americna who loved his black eye peas, pasta and a variety of meats from ham to chicken to veal.. Jefferson also introduced ice cream to the country where it has reigned supreme in all sorts of desserts and flavor ever since. Oysters were big at the big house and have been featured for the last two centuries . They have been chilled, enriched by sauce and enhanced by lemon. Households across the country copied these recipes as they also copied roast turkey and stuffing recipes for that uniquely American holiday Thanksgiving. Even decadent desserts such as Mrs. Eisenhower's fudge and current White House pastry chef's Bill Yosses' nectarine pie that has our current president swooning

Of course Michelle Obama brought healthy eating from the White House to America. She's is the gatekeeper to the "Let's Move' exercise movement and encourages healthy eating with fresh fruits and veggies. She brings us minted pea salad, perfect for now, excellent for a Spring dinner . For more green there is a broccoli soup, a puree made even more tastier with onions , celery and a dash of jalapeno infused olive oil.President Obama loves her chili recipe that has just a bit of decadent bacon added along with ground turkey ( you can have it with  ground beef too) along with good for you spices such as cumin and garlic. Their daughters love cauliflower (!) baked mac and cheese. This classic, usually considered a fat bomb, is rendered good for you by cauliflower and skim milk.There is also creamless creamed spinach, a culinary marvel that has just pureed spinach and olive oil with absolutely no roue in it. The Obamas also enjoy a grilled chicken Caesar as we all do , theirs is with the lighter sherry vinaigrette instead of the creamier traditional Caesar dressing. Dessert is a healthier version of apple cobbler that has a tasty mix of brown sugar, cinnamon , and nutmeg added to it for flavor.

Our presidents have all eaten well from Washington up to our current administration. The recipes represent who we are as a collective whole and the bounty that is America. They are diverse, taken form our forests and our farms, made delicious in our nation;s kitchen.

Saturday, February 13, 2016

The Best Valentine's Day Gift Home Cooked

"If music be the food of love play on." Shakespeare wrote in his great play , Twelfth Night and it's true. Nothing is as satisfying as a sensuous meal followed by a sweet treat - meaning a decadent dessert. What better than a home cooked one, made with love for love. It's a simple gift  but with so much meaning.

If you're at a quandary about what to make your beloved tomorrow, then consult David Tanis'  A City Kitchen from this past Wednesday's New York Times Food section. He recommends starting out with a citrus salad, a tart refreshing start to any meal.It's mixing crunchy Belgian endive with zesty cara cara oranges and a blood orange.You could add grapefruit for a really tart punch but that's up to your beloved's taste. if the salad may seem too daunting tastewise, then stick with a simple tomato and mozzarella one but amp up the vinaigrette by adding champagne vinegar (this is not as exotic as it sounds, it can be bought at any super market and even Wal-Mart!).The main dish is one of Mr. Tanis's creation:seared sea scallops with ginger-lime butter. This is searing the scallops  with bok choy and sweet potatoes for a colorful and tasty dish.The ginger lime butter zinged with red pepper, is then drizzled over it.If your love isn't into seafood then think chicken . Feeding each other a whole roast chicken has a kind of Tom Jones, (the Henry Fielding book and 1963 Albert Finney movie)appeal but there is a more civilized dish in the form of chicken Alfredo over angel hair pasta It's blending chicken breasts with a creamy and buttery white sauce served over cappellini.

Of course the piece de resistance for any lovers' meal is dessert. Chocolate is the most desired but the question is in what form. Mr. Tanis gives us the ultra decadent chocolate bourbon balls. These are a marriage of every ones' favorites ; dark cocoa, bourbon and a choice of crushed pecans, pistachios or hazelnuts. I would go for the hazelnuts for a kicky nocciola flavor. The truffles are a ganache , made satiny with a mix of vanilla and bourbon and then chilled, A melon baller is used to make the bite sized treats and then after chilling they're rolled in the crushed nuts For a different spin add s tiny amount of chili pepper flakes and then roll in a mix of cocoa and cinnamon. Mint is another flavor that can be added into a truffle. A really sensuous end is chocolate fondue. It can be made with either milk or dark chocolate however the last is the better choice. It brings out the the fondue's morsels flavors and under notes. Strawberries are the obvious choice in nibbles. They're fun to feet to each other, but you can also try cherries if you can get them, or pineapples. Chunks of cake, whether be pound or angel food can be used but for real decadence  try brownies.

Treat your love to a homecooked meal, followed by a rich , yummy chocolate treat. It's the best gift out there that just trumpets your emotions. Get cooking  then if you want some loving.