Hot Fruit

As much as we love to take a bite out of an apple or pear, there's something about  cooked fruit that's  lush and satisfying. Heat brings out the flavors, caramelizes the inherent sugars and creates a custardy texture. It turns an ordinary drupe, pone or berry into something special.

Apples are big right now. Many feel the best way to cook them is baked into a pie.It's a delicious way to have them, especially when the pie is warmed up and served with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. However if you're not a big fan of crusts, there are two suggestions. One is a galette,a more rustic , yet surprisingly elegant tart. It's an open pie ,with the crust folded only an inch in, showing off apple slices usually arranged in a swirl pattern. The crust is the same as any lard based one and the filling's ingredients are the same as an apple pie's - cinnamon. sometimes' that's omitted so the cooked apple taste shines though. Sometimes the entire galette is brushed with apricot jam to give it a beautiful shine. The second idea is just make the filling - kind of like a chunky apple sauce in your slow cooker or crockpot. It can not only be served as dessert, but omit the cinnamon and serve it as a side to pork roast or pork chops.Of course baked apples are always a lovely fall dessert. You can bake them with brown sugar , cinnamon and butter but for a more sophisticated spin try them Piedmontese style with a filling of Marsala , butter and a pinch of sugar for each apple. For a fun Halloween party, think baked apples stuffed with caramel and chopped walnuts.

Pears are another fruit that are delicious when cooked. One of the most popular recipes is poached. Usually red wine is added along with orange peel in the cooking to impart more flavor. White wine can also be used. The fruit can also be baked in a galette, Try it with a buttery tart crust instead of a pie crust. Grocery stores are still selling peaches right now. Go for them, to get the last taste of summer. One of the most delicious is pesche ripiene Piedmontese. This is a big dessert in all of Piedmonte. It's stuffing sliced pitted peaches with crushed amaretti cookies with the chopped peach stones and butter. They're then baked with peach liqueur such as Schnappes . They're so delicious that you don't have to serve them with whipped cream although some home and professional chefs add a dab of marscapone cheese next to them. Peaches can also be baked as well with cinnamon and some kind of nut. This makes a great side to butter pecan or vanilla ice cream. Cranberries are the quintessential fall berry. Yes you can cook them into a sauce that goes well with turkey but they also can star in a sweet trifle recipe. Layer them with buttery pound cake slices and a cream cheese/whipped cream filling. This would even make a great holiday dessert for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Cooked or baked fruits are more sophisticated way to serve fall's bounty. They become more complex and flavorful, thanks to baking or slow cooking. They go beyond being apples and pears, peaches and cranberries and transform into memorable tastes.

Apple Pie For Everyone

One of the best treats of fall is a freshly baked apple pie. Nothing beats the perfect slice , bursting with fruit and spices. The problem is everybody wants a slice - a huge slice which is flattering to the baker. The problem is the baker never gets to have a slice of his or her creation. What to do? Bake a bigger pie..

Julia Moskin tackled this problem in yesterday's  New York Times Food section. She too has had to watch her pies get devoured in one dessert setting with nary any room for leftovers. Her solution? Break free of the tradition of using nine inch pans, used for decades. This was standard in a time when home bakers baked several a day Farm wives baked different kinds, using all sorts of dried or fresh fruits, pecans and hickory nuts  and sometimes crackers and condensed milk. Pie today is different. It's meant as a project, feeding a large  crowd after a dinner party.Ms. Masking recommends ditching the traditional pie plate and use any kind of baking dish. It does have to be two inches deep and be able to hold two and a half to three quarts of fulling and crust.Use heavy ceramic pans,  a skillet or casserole dish. Don't worry about having a rim. The pie 's crust is thick enough to make its' own.  The reason. Make a crust that is thick. Think rolling out a half inch one instead of one that's 1/8 of an inch thick. This is a double crust one . It should be sturdy but have that tenderness . Instead of the traditional lard, Ms. Moskin gives the crust a French twist by adding unsalted butter which will give it a nice "tarte" feel and flavor.

Most home bakers make the mistake of using just one apple type. Break this habit. Too much of one apple sort  will ruin it. Use a mix of tart and sweet varieties. Home bakers can use the ancient varieties such as Bramleys and Pippins or they can go modern with a mix of tart Granny Smiths', Honeycrisps and Pink Ladies, Ginger Golds and Cameos.Ms. Moskin also suggests using McIntosh,Idared or Cortland apples if home bakers want crunch.They're actually a good addition because they break down and help bind the filling. A blend of  textures also helps in creating a delicious, memorable pie. Lemon juice is commonly added to balance out  the sweetness however according to Kate Mcdermott, a professional "pie coach " try unfiltered apple cider vinegar. She also advocates  a shot of liqueur to the mix. Try schnapps or brandy such as French Calvados. For a non alcoholic alternative think cider, cider syrup or just plain apple juice. What about cinnamon? Many home bakers go crazy with it, turning their pies into giant Pop Tarts. A small, even teaspoon will do it even for a big pie along with a pinch of nutmeg and a half a teaspoon of allspice. This last, again can cut the sweetness, giving a nice warm smokiness to the filling.

The best pie is a well made one. Break the traditional recipe by making one for a large crowd. Add a shot of Calvados, vary the apples and cut back on the spices. It'll create a pie that's not only delicious but memorable.