The Philippines are a combination of many influences , from cultural to terrain. The end result is a bright, tasty cuisine that's now a strong force here in the States. It's easy to replicate and fun for home chefs to try.
It was the subject of an article written by Angela Dimayuga with the help of New York Times Food contributor , Ligaya Mishan. Chef Dimayuga, who is not only was the chef at the famed Mission Chinese Food in New York City. and also a contributor to Bon Appetite Magazine. She returns to the food of her childhood, food that her mom made , food that the first Filipino migrant workers brought to Northern California , in the 1920's. Filipino food is just as complex and layered as the Italian and French cuisines she learned how to cook. It is also a very meticulous cuisine requiring just as much work and technique of any of those cuisines. Chef Dimayuga has the very good fortune of receiving the secrets behind family recipes from her lola, before the elder passed at the age of 100. The family knows good food coming form the Lyon of the Philippines Papampanga. There were lessons on bistek , steak with soy sauce and calamansi, a type of
lime. Her grandmother, who was former pharmacist also showed the chef how to create her chicken releno, stuffed chicken with pork and sausage, similar to a farci, the French meat stuffing. She realized her grandmother's recipe was exactly like Chef Jacques Pepin's galentine, after watching his video on it.
There are many recipes here. However Chef Dimayuga regrets that some of her favorites are not listed. The Philippines are an archipelago of 7,000 (!) islands, each with a strong culinary background. You'd need a cookbook just to list all the best. The article tries to do just that in a few essential dishes. There is the bistek recipe that has chunky rib eyes drenched in a sauce of garlic, lemon and orange juices., blended with olive oil, soy sauce and garlic. Of course there are rice dishes. There is an arroz caldo - hot rice - with chicken,collard greens and soy cured egg yolks. A fun appetizer or even a weekend meal is the lumpia Shanghai cousins to spring rolls that Chinese traders first brought to the islands in the Ninth Century. The filling is a mix of beef and pork, with the usual spring roll ingredients of water chestnuts,,onions carrots, and celery stalks. What's intriguing is that Chef Dimayuga and her five siblings dipped them in banana ketchup - which can be made at home. It's cooking over ripe bananas with tomato paste to create a kind of sweet and sour jam. There is also the famed adobo, brought by Spanish colonizers, however the vinegar laced chicken stew was always a staple in the cuisine long before European settlement. Hers is a coconut milk and coconut vinegar mix with chicken. To end the meal is bibingka, coconut rice cakes , with the surprising addition of salted duck eggs
Filipino food is delicious and complex. It is a treat to make and to try the many flavors and textures that represent the archipelago. The many dishes are perfect to recreate for their brightness of color and tang.
Showing posts with label Lola. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lola. Show all posts
Wednesday, October 9, 2019
Thursday, September 12, 2019
Rethinking Traditional Cuisines
One of the hallmarks of a good and creative chef is taking traditional recipes and giving them a new spin. Being this daring means thinking outside the box. Chef Ann Kim has done this and with interesting results. Doing such has made her an up and coming bright star on the American culinary scene.
She was the subject of an extensive article in yesterday's New York Times section, written by Brett Anderson, restaurant critic and food writer. Chef Kim is a rebel of sorts, one with an interesting back story. Her family came from South Korea and went to Columbia University. She didn't go the expected route of business, law, or medicine but chose acting instead. This did not go over well with her parents who disowned her for the choice. It did take off with Chef Kim landing parts in the most respected theater companies including Minneapolis' famed Guthrie Theater. Those paid off her student loans but left her feeling unfulfilled. Being Asian left her with limited and pigeon holed roles. Luckily she turned to cooking . She referenced that turn of career in an emotional acceptance speech when she won the James Beard award. Her first restaurant, eatery was Pizzeria Lola, a nod to her growing up as one of the few Asians in a predominantly white suburb. This has fusion pies, with tomato sauce mixing with kim chi in her Lady Zaza pie and barbecue Korean beef ribs paired with arugula and scallions in another . Diners can finish with all American classics such as soft serve ice cream she and her sisters loved during their trips to McDonald's and chocolate chip cookies and milk.Her other pizzerias are Yong Joni and Hello, the last featuring New York slice and sandwich in Edina, Minnesota
Now she is opening up Sooki and Mimi's , named for her maternal grandmother and her "adopted" American grandmother, mother of her white Minnesotan uncle. Mimi or Thelma Lange also sponsored the Kim family when they came from Korea in 1977. Her grandmother continued all the traditions including the culinary ones of making kimchi and gochujang, Korean chili paste. Mimi wanted Ms. Kim and her sister to do the opposite - assimilate. She took them to the orchestra and Children's Theater, along with reading books in their suburban town of Apple Valley. One would think the restaurant would be another fusion pizzeria No!!!! Chef Kim is opening up a taqueria inspired eatery thanks to her trip to Valle de Guadalup, Mexico. She tasted handmade heirloom blue corn tortillas that moved her to tears. The restaurant doesn't have a Latino sounding name , for fear of pigeonholing it and the menu will never be exclusively south of the border. She promises a dish with gravlax and lefse, Norwegian potato bread - a nod to the heavily Scandinavian population and possibly even churros - undoubtedly with a twist.
Chef Ann Kim's thinking outside the box has made her the country's most innovative chefs. Her new restaurant will surely be a hit. The dishes will be a marriage and salute to all sorts of different cuisines, from traditional to fusion.
She was the subject of an extensive article in yesterday's New York Times section, written by Brett Anderson, restaurant critic and food writer. Chef Kim is a rebel of sorts, one with an interesting back story. Her family came from South Korea and went to Columbia University. She didn't go the expected route of business, law, or medicine but chose acting instead. This did not go over well with her parents who disowned her for the choice. It did take off with Chef Kim landing parts in the most respected theater companies including Minneapolis' famed Guthrie Theater. Those paid off her student loans but left her feeling unfulfilled. Being Asian left her with limited and pigeon holed roles. Luckily she turned to cooking . She referenced that turn of career in an emotional acceptance speech when she won the James Beard award. Her first restaurant, eatery was Pizzeria Lola, a nod to her growing up as one of the few Asians in a predominantly white suburb. This has fusion pies, with tomato sauce mixing with kim chi in her Lady Zaza pie and barbecue Korean beef ribs paired with arugula and scallions in another . Diners can finish with all American classics such as soft serve ice cream she and her sisters loved during their trips to McDonald's and chocolate chip cookies and milk.Her other pizzerias are Yong Joni and Hello, the last featuring New York slice and sandwich in Edina, Minnesota
Now she is opening up Sooki and Mimi's , named for her maternal grandmother and her "adopted" American grandmother, mother of her white Minnesotan uncle. Mimi or Thelma Lange also sponsored the Kim family when they came from Korea in 1977. Her grandmother continued all the traditions including the culinary ones of making kimchi and gochujang, Korean chili paste. Mimi wanted Ms. Kim and her sister to do the opposite - assimilate. She took them to the orchestra and Children's Theater, along with reading books in their suburban town of Apple Valley. One would think the restaurant would be another fusion pizzeria No!!!! Chef Kim is opening up a taqueria inspired eatery thanks to her trip to Valle de Guadalup, Mexico. She tasted handmade heirloom blue corn tortillas that moved her to tears. The restaurant doesn't have a Latino sounding name , for fear of pigeonholing it and the menu will never be exclusively south of the border. She promises a dish with gravlax and lefse, Norwegian potato bread - a nod to the heavily Scandinavian population and possibly even churros - undoubtedly with a twist.
Chef Ann Kim's thinking outside the box has made her the country's most innovative chefs. Her new restaurant will surely be a hit. The dishes will be a marriage and salute to all sorts of different cuisines, from traditional to fusion.
Monday, January 26, 2015
Blizzard Basics
Most of New York , New Jersey and even Connecticut are going through Lola, the mega blizzard of 2015. The last few days have been crazy at our local supermarkets as everyone prepares for this behemoth of a storm. Surprisingly a lot of people don't; know how to shop for one.They figure a day in eating snacks and baking slice and bake cookies but its' much more than that. Multi purpose and versatile basics need to be bought .
Bread , milk and eggs are always the three items that always go first. People tend to gravitate towards these, and they are versatile. After all these are the three ingredients needed to make French toast,- a great breakfast after an hour of shoveling. However they're all versatile on their own. Bread can be used to make sandwiches and grilled cheeses but it can also be used as a layer for strata that egg based casserole. Stale bread can be cubed and fried to make croutons .If you feel ambitious you can even make homemade stuffing with it. Eggs can be used for everything from soups to even sauces. Hard boiled eggs make a good snack and provide much needed protein to combat an unshovelled driveway. Milk again is another multiuse food. Use it for real old fashioned hot cocoa but also try it to make delicious cream soups as well as in batters for both sweet and savory dishes. Add lemon juice to it to create buttermilk if you want buttermilk pancakes or buttermilk dressing.
Other blizzard must haves are pancake and waffle mix, especially if you have kids.It's an instant breakfast and can feed a lot. Also there's nothing like starting off a snowy day with fresh , homemade waffles. Pasta should already be in your pantry . Again this is a versatile staple that can be made with tomato sauce , Oriental sauces and veggies or just plain and buttered for a simple evening supper.Boullion cubes are another must. Everyone loves a good homemade soup, whether it has a beef, chicken or veggie base. There's also so much to make from a simple stock. If you're not that ambitious then get a variety of canned soups to accommodate everyone's tastes.Have the freezer stocked too (and if the blizzard knocks your electricity out, just remember it's winter. Store stuff in your car or shed). Margarine and butter should be on the ready as is olive oil.Another should have are ingredients for stews. Stews are easy to make, and filling. They can also be reheated for two days of eating. Make dumplings for even heartier fare. Water should also be a stock up however you ca n boil snow for drinking water if need be.Just makes sure it's fresh fallen and white.
don't be phased by Lola. Instead be prepared foodwise for a few days indoors and away from the supermarket.Yoiu can get through this, well fed with good , homemade and nutritious food.
Bread , milk and eggs are always the three items that always go first. People tend to gravitate towards these, and they are versatile. After all these are the three ingredients needed to make French toast,- a great breakfast after an hour of shoveling. However they're all versatile on their own. Bread can be used to make sandwiches and grilled cheeses but it can also be used as a layer for strata that egg based casserole. Stale bread can be cubed and fried to make croutons .If you feel ambitious you can even make homemade stuffing with it. Eggs can be used for everything from soups to even sauces. Hard boiled eggs make a good snack and provide much needed protein to combat an unshovelled driveway. Milk again is another multiuse food. Use it for real old fashioned hot cocoa but also try it to make delicious cream soups as well as in batters for both sweet and savory dishes. Add lemon juice to it to create buttermilk if you want buttermilk pancakes or buttermilk dressing.
Other blizzard must haves are pancake and waffle mix, especially if you have kids.It's an instant breakfast and can feed a lot. Also there's nothing like starting off a snowy day with fresh , homemade waffles. Pasta should already be in your pantry . Again this is a versatile staple that can be made with tomato sauce , Oriental sauces and veggies or just plain and buttered for a simple evening supper.Boullion cubes are another must. Everyone loves a good homemade soup, whether it has a beef, chicken or veggie base. There's also so much to make from a simple stock. If you're not that ambitious then get a variety of canned soups to accommodate everyone's tastes.Have the freezer stocked too (and if the blizzard knocks your electricity out, just remember it's winter. Store stuff in your car or shed). Margarine and butter should be on the ready as is olive oil.Another should have are ingredients for stews. Stews are easy to make, and filling. They can also be reheated for two days of eating. Make dumplings for even heartier fare. Water should also be a stock up however you ca n boil snow for drinking water if need be.Just makes sure it's fresh fallen and white.
don't be phased by Lola. Instead be prepared foodwise for a few days indoors and away from the supermarket.Yoiu can get through this, well fed with good , homemade and nutritious food.
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