Saturday, October 20, 2018

Of Swans And Birthday Cakes

I have never used this blog to write about my birthday which is tomorrow. Instead I've dedicated my birth day blog to another 21ster, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the Early Romantic poet and Shakespeare critic.I've written about scones and clotted cream, and after ten years of lauding the fruits of Devon, maybe it's time for a change. No surprise there.

What was a surprise was in tomorrow's New York Times Sunday Magazine (delivered the day before) was the recipe for my Mom's signature dessert  cream puff swans.These are airy confections that she first got out of a recipe from one of my Seventeen Magazine when I was in high school or college.These were tear drop shaped puffs of the always impossible to make choux pastry. She had to pipe the necks which were thin exaggerated question marks. To give them that cygnet look the domes of the puffs were sliced off and cut in two to make the elegant wings. My Mom made a simple vanilla pudding , boosted with Cool Whip (I think) to complete the light airy, taste. This was spooned into the empty shells. The necks were inserted as were the wings, the last at an angle to show a swan preening. Then there was the dusting of powdered sugar to bring the elegance up another layer. They were like eating clouds. They were fun. Everybody in the family instantly fell in love with them, from my grandfather's cousins to my own, younger ones. They were the requested pastry at graduations and parties. The necks were always eaten first, followed by the wings and then the bodies.I hope Gabrielle Hamilton's recipe for them gets the same kind of love and adoration.

I miss those swans. I miss those days. Tomorrow is my first birthday without my Mom It doesn't feel like a celebratory day that deserve the mini birthday cakes I always bought from the Acme or Stop & Shop. I don't know what it feels like - maybe a recipe without the flavor - yes that's it. I'll be in New York on my special day, I'll go to a fun bakery and get a quartet of cupcakes (not too much - this food writer is on a strict diet.)They'll be chocolate ,for sure, with buttercream icing - not as good as mine though.Still, it's not the same with her not here physically. Birthdays for all us used to be fun. It was either our favorite meals made  (mine was risotto Milanese , the saffron drenched risott from  Italy's Lombard region) or a trip to the city for lunch or dinner at a favorite restaurant. We celebrated with a variety of different cuisines, from Belgian to Mexican to Japanese. Different dishes were ordered and shared. Gifts given and opened. Dessert then appeared and we dug into everything from creme brule to matcha ice cream. I miss those meals and the laughter that came with them

Birthdays are always with us.So are good food memories. I'll always cherish those of my Mom's choux swans  and of our birthday get togethers



Friday, October 19, 2018

Crazy Grapes

Grapes have always been a fun snack and a neat addition to dessert plates. Now there are some new hybrids that are going to ran up the excitement around them. These will definitely be the new favorites.

I discovered one strain while food shopping at the Stop &Shop. There are only so many peaches one can eat, and as much as I love them, they can be tiresome. The grapes beckoned  - and these were not just any grape. They were long tubular ones, sort of looking like pudgy little fingers. They were the Moon Drops, a pretty name for a pretty fruit. The grapes' color is a rich deep purple - think a midnight mixed with eggplant. They're the size is about two Concord grapes long with blunt, rounded ends. The flavor is sweeter than the average grape,think homemade grape jam. Sweet but not cloying. They are an offshoot of the common grape - vitis vinifira and the name was trademarked by The Grapery,a California based grower. Their odd shape might make people think they've been genetically modified   but they're not. The breeding technique did require human intervention howeve. An embryo rescue occurred, This is when the breeding process involves pollinating a flower and then growing the embryo seed in a laboratory test tube. Eventually the seedling is planted in soil and grown in the traditional manner.Unfortunately they're not really good for jams or wine. Eat them fresh , by themselves or with cheese.

Another crazy grape causing a buzz is the cotton candy grape. This hybrid is yet another product of The Grapery., and have been out since 2011 (I'm late to the party with these). They look resemble "white "or the pale green variety save for one important aspect - they taste exactly  like cotton candy. How is this possible? Again, as with the Moon Drops, there was no GMOs or even sugar injections to boost the taste. It seems it was a hit and miss with flavors.The growers didn't set out to create that particular one. Consumer testers gave them that name. Warm, they have a caramel or toffee flavor but chilled, as they were first eaten - and the cotton candy taste comes out.Again, like their unique  cousins, they can;t be made into jam or wine. Just eat them as a fun dessert when they're in season,. Supermarkets usually sell them during their harvest months of August and September. Another wild globe from The Grapery is the teardrop grape. This is a deep purple chili pepper looking grape that were originally named Witch Fingers which would be a cool name for them around Halloween. Like their cousins, they're best on their own or better yet on a cheese or charcuterie  plate. Harvest time for them is mid Spring, around June.

Grapes are a nice addition to any table - no matter what the time of year. MoonDrops are big right now. Enjoy them at a fall  picnic or gracing a cheese platter full of Bries and cheddar.

Thursday, October 18, 2018

The Spotted Pig's Me Too Movement

The Spotted Pig has been one of the trendiest restaurants in New York's Greenwich Village. Everyone from stars to politicians, famous foodies and infamous chefs have eaten there. This starry site had a dark side - one of harassment and assault. The real story is coming out now.

Julia Moskin and Kim Severson wrote this extensive and in depth interview with the Spotted Pig's former chef, April Bloomfield, in yesterday's New York Times Food section.It's a tale of metereoric success. warring egos, incredible talent and magnetic personalities. Chef Bloomfield arrived in New York City in 2003, an innocent,  eager to work in Manhattan, then as it is now a mecca for chefs with talent. She had come from London's famed River Cafe, hired by Ken Friedman, who wanted to start a British style gastropub in New York City. There lay the first problem. Mr. Friedman had more experience in the music industry than he had in the restaurant one. He was able to lure in the glitterati which fueled the Spotted Pig's popularity in the early 2000.'s. Then the restaurant won its' first Michilin star. Chef Bloomfield had to deal not only with nonstop cooking but with the kitchen and waitstaff. She ran it like a martinet, berating both young chefs and waiters.She ignored or brushed off claims from female employees about Mr. Friedman's behavior that ranged from groping to asking them to send nude pictures of themselves.She claims she was not told of these wildly inappropriate  episodes. She also claims that the staff was directed by him to conceal the extent of his abuse.

Yes, as an employer she should have reported him.As a woman she should have been more sympathetic and faced Mr. Friedman head on , with the staff at her side. Yet even though they were partners, in not only The Spotted Pig but also The John Dory and the Breslin, she seemed intimidated by him. To be honest , he was the dominant one in the partnership. From the start, when she just worked for him, he threatened to revoke her work visa over something as simple as mildly disapproving over his choice of prints for the restaurant's interior. His personality was explosive . Maybe it was easier  for her to keep her head down and concentrate on her dishes.Chef Bloomfield did try to broach the subject with him. She had confronted him about his verbal abuse and unprofessional behavior. As with any relationship, she thought she could change him. He would agree and promise to do better but reverted back to his old ways. There was still rampant harassment. She could only concentrate on what she could control - her cooking. That made employees who were still being intimidated , furious. Some did not want to talk to Ms. Moskin or Ms. Severson , emphasizing that they didn't want to make their former boss look redemptive.

Will Chef Bloomfield be able to redeem herself in Los Angeles? It is a new start - yet one that has a history.  Will she be able to get past it with her cooking and new restaurant The Hearth And Hound? Time will tell.

Wednesday, October 17, 2018

The Return Of Newark Cider

New Jersey has in recent years, been known for their wines and champagnes. Yet another heady beverage is making a comeback -  Newark Cider. This clean tasting fruity brew is being made in state again and is gracing tables as it did in George Washington's day.

Rachel Wharton, a food writer and editor at  The New York Daily News took a break from her newspaper to write this piece for today's New York Times Food section. Newark cider was a great favorite of colonial New Jersey.It was also the treasured choice of George Washington who called it "the champagne of ciders". For decades cideries graced the Newark ,New Jersey area, thanks in part to the vast amount of apple orchards located the various hillsides bordering the town. They were perfect for growing fruit. The slopes have cool nights and warm days which protect the fruit from frost along with helping to accumulate flavor and sugar. The apples, themselves, are descended from the four varieties that make up the brew. Campfield, Povoshon, Granniwinkle and Harrison, the most celebrated of the quartet are the ones used. Together they create a crisp clean cider with notes of caramel and brown sugar, thanks to the Poveshon.Yet it is the Harrison apple that makes the cider sing.They have both the astringent tannins and high acidity that give the drink its' very rich, sugary flavor.

The entire Jersey cider industry was ready to be consigned to history  however it was revived to Charles Rosen.This former chief executive of a Manhattan advertising agency that dealt with other liquors, Svedka Vodka and Mike's Hard Lemonade, wanted to reintroduce this staple of Revolutionary New Jersey. He invested all his money in the business , long gone thanks to first urbanization  and then Prohibition.In 2011 he was looking to effect change in the state. It was then he was handed the magazine Edible New Jersey which had an article about the history of Newark Cider.The article's author, Fran McManus offered a suggestion at its' end - the apples were being grown in other states - why not bring  them back home? Mr. Rosen decided to give it a try. In 2015 he planted several thousand hard to find vintage cider apple saplings. While waiting for these to grow , he produced mainstream ciders such as cherry -cranberry with apple juice bought from other orchards. There is a new Champagne style cider made entirely of Harrison apples, found when his lawyer, Thomas Villardi, came upon a deserted cider mill in Maplewood NJ and with it , the trees. There is also the Ironbound Cider Company that has a tap room and tasting room where New Jersey sourced ingredients are turned into delicious dishes that go perfect with the cider. It's located in Asbury ,New Jersey, just a skip away from the Bridgewater Commons Mall.

New Jersey is known for many things. Cider will once again be one of them. New Jerseyians will enjoy this heady brew  the same way George Washington did.



Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Your Peppery Pepper Guide

Without peppers our diets would be bland and our palates bored. They  liven up any recipe, with both color and zing. Yet there are so many. It can be confusing to a home chef about what to use and in what dish. They're easy to figure out once you know what they are.

First of all there are bell peppers namely green and yellow and hot peppers. The bells, those brightly colored gems, have zero heat,on the Scoville Scale which measures the heat of capiscums. It came about to measure and in a way warn home and professional chefs about a pepper's fire. Keep this in mind when using the very hot sort.. Also keep hands that have handled them away from your eyes. It can cause damage and pain. Flood the eye area with milk, (some swear by a mild shampoo) and completely rinse out. The same goes for hands stung by the heat. Rinse with water. Soak in cold milk. As for the peppers ,there are many out there.It depends on what you're making.So many  cuisines rely on this hot fire for their signature dishes. The Szechuan province of cuisine was one of the first to introduce super fiery dishes to the American public. Surprisingly there not peppercorns but dried berries from a cousin of the rue tree. They can bring a tear to the eye Hungary , one of the few European countries with a fiery cuisine, gives us the Hungarian pepper. a waxy  jalapeno looking capiscum that can be used to spike up salads and marinades.Of course there is paprika which comes in eight different varieties and levels of  very mild heat (they're actually dried  red bell peppers that have been  ground up).Try the famed Chicken Paprika for a tasty dish that'll warm you up on a chilly fall night. Paprika can also be used in beef and poultry rubs too.

 Mexican cuisine seems to have the most variety of peppers. There are many to choose from and it depends on the recipe - and also your taste. Serrano chiles, are small and green,It's used for spice and flavoring as well as garnishing. Jalapeno is the one that Americans know the best. It can either be red or green but the red has a sweeter taste.Poblano is seen in authentic Mexican restaurants and is a dark medium green chile. They're usually stuffed with chorizo and different Mexican cheeses -perfect for holiday appetizers. Habaneros are also popular but they are lethal. They can be interchanged with the five alarm Scotch Bonnet, one of the hottest peppers on the planet.It's a tiny lantern shaped bulb that can change any chili or fajita recipe. Approach these with caution. A better pepper would be the chile de arbol which is used to make red pepper flakes. Another "cooler" alternative is the chipotle. This is medium-small wrinkled brown chili that has a unique smoky flavor that's been compared to bacon's.It's a dried jalapeno but with less heat.If you're thinking about making mole sauce, then use the chile negro or pasilla, a long dark brown chile that's ground up. For milder flavors try the ancho .It's a dried poblano with a mellow , earthy flavor, not unlike the chile negro or pasilla pepper.

Peppers are a wonderful addition to bland dishes. They heighten the other ingredients while maintaining their own taste. Try them in various dishes now.

Monday, October 15, 2018

Cooking Shortcuts You'll Love

Everyone loves a shortcut, especially in home cooking in baking. It makes for less stress and less work The end result is more or less the same - without a headache or two.There should be no guilt in not sticking  the original recipes. The chefs and bakers who created them probably had a hack or two up their sleeves as well.

Cooking hacks or shortcuts have been around ever since early man put water in a bowl and boiled it over an open flame. There have been a number of commercial shortcuts created in the 19th and 20th centuries. One of the first was the dessert Jello, followed by instant gravies and mashed potatoes.A easy hot lunch or dinner shortcut, is picking up sliced turkey, Stovetop Stuffing and jarred turkey gravy.Make the stuffing, heat the gravy and serve with the meat. Add a side of steamed veggies for a filling hot meal. One of the most delicious dishes any home chef can make is quiche. However it can be a pain to make, especially the crust. The easiest solution is premade pie crust. Everyone from Pillsbury to Stop & Shop have excellent ones.I just made Ione's Zucchini Pie, from Heirloom Cooking With The Brass Sisters. The recipe is labor intensive, with zucchini being grated and onions being chopped. My days are busy so making a homemade crust is a lot of work and time. I asked the sisters if it was all right to sub in an already made crust. The answer was yes and I used Stop &Shop's brand . The crust was light and flaky which shattered upon biting. I plan on using it when I make quiches for the holidays,

One of the best cooking hacks is the bouillon cube.Instead of cooking chicken and beef bones for hours to achieve the perfect Paleo broth. you can just drop two or three cubes in boiling water for the base of soups, bisques or sauces. A couple of bouillon cubes in water can be the basis for chicken or beef noodle or minestrone.Surprisingly there is even fish bouillon cubes that you can use for chowders and bouillabaisse .The chicken and beef add extra flavor to gravies too, including turkey gravy.Another hack is steamed veggies. Most of us grew up with them being steamed in a pot. Unfortunately one  glaring side effect was mushy, tasteless vegetables . Nowadays  it's bags steamed in the microwave for a few minutes and the result is a fresh tasting carrots, peas and broccoli to name a few. Open a can of cream soup ,  pour over them and you have a tasty side that only took minutes to create. Home bakers have been using short cuts for years.For those who love creating a cake or icing - like myself - cake and cookie mixes are a godsend , especially when there is serious cooking to do also. Icings- and pre made candy decorations are also a blessing , especially around the holidays.

There's nothing wrong with a cooking hack, It saves times and cuts down on the stress.Use one or two to make cooking and baking a lot easier  and a lot less complicated.

Saturday, October 13, 2018

The Season For Hot Pies

One of the best aspects  of fall cooking is creating delicious and filling hot savory pies. They can be rich with meat and gravy for meat lovers or chock full of veggies for vegetarians. Either way, a steaming wedge loaded with flavor is the perfect warm up on a nippy October day.

Savory pies can take a lot of work. If you're thinking of baking one ask yourself if you have the time to make a crust or just buy one.One time saver is buying already made pie dough  Pillsbury is your best bet.it's premade but has a nice homemade taste to it.However if you want create your own you can. There's absolutely no difference between a sweet pie and savory one crust unless you wish to add dry herbs for more flavor. As for the crust , that depends  on the home baker you talk to.Some use lard,others  butter, while some use a combination of the two. Vegetable shortening can also be part of the recipe as well. All need ice water. You can brush the pie bottom with beaten egg before beating. This can also be done to the crimped crust and pie top. If pie crusts aren't your thing, then think of shepherd's pie. This British classic is topped with mashed potatoes. For the ultimate classic taste use mashed russet potatoes  to top lamb or ground beef, peas and corn. Make a side dish of gravy to pour over the slices.

Now for the fillings. Again it can veer towards the traditional or vegetarian.Meat pies started as a way to reuse leftover roasts. You can do that too although you can also buy any kind of filling fresh. A traditional one is beef. This is a hearty one, perfect for a chilly night. The filling can be London Broil bought from your supermarket's deli or even beef tips. The last will require some braising in a Dutch oven before adding it to the pie.Another way is ground beef for a less chewier version. As for chicken, any part is good. Try mixing the white and dark meat for more flavor.It can be shredded or cubed. You can also do the same with leftover turkey too.Braver home chefs may want to experiment with a fish (!) pie. A rather decadent one for dinner parties would be the lobster one, rich with Pernod and cream. What do all these pies have in common? Vegetables which are the basis of a vegetarian pot pie. Potatoes are a staple.Usually the smaller Yukon Gold ones are the best along with peas and sliced carrots. The onions are always sauteed before adding. To make a meatless pie  a bit more heartier add some cauliflower and broccoli along with mushrooms and sweet potatoes.

A hot savory pie is a great dinner on a chilly night. Make your own, rich with meat or veggies. Then savor the steamy goodness they can bring to a fall supper table.