Of Swans And Birthday Cakes

I have never used this blog to write about my birthday which is tomorrow. Instead I've dedicated my birth day blog to another 21ster, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the Early Romantic poet and Shakespeare critic.I've written about scones and clotted cream, and after ten years of lauding the fruits of Devon, maybe it's time for a change. No surprise there.

What was a surprise was in tomorrow's New York Times Sunday Magazine (delivered the day before) was the recipe for my Mom's signature dessert  cream puff swans.These are airy confections that she first got out of a recipe from one of my Seventeen Magazine when I was in high school or college.These were tear drop shaped puffs of the always impossible to make choux pastry. She had to pipe the necks which were thin exaggerated question marks. To give them that cygnet look the domes of the puffs were sliced off and cut in two to make the elegant wings. My Mom made a simple vanilla pudding , boosted with Cool Whip (I think) to complete the light airy, taste. This was spooned into the empty shells. The necks were inserted as were the wings, the last at an angle to show a swan preening. Then there was the dusting of powdered sugar to bring the elegance up another layer. They were like eating clouds. They were fun. Everybody in the family instantly fell in love with them, from my grandfather's cousins to my own, younger ones. They were the requested pastry at graduations and parties. The necks were always eaten first, followed by the wings and then the bodies.I hope Gabrielle Hamilton's recipe for them gets the same kind of love and adoration.

I miss those swans. I miss those days. Tomorrow is my first birthday without my Mom It doesn't feel like a celebratory day that deserve the mini birthday cakes I always bought from the Acme or Stop & Shop. I don't know what it feels like - maybe a recipe without the flavor - yes that's it. I'll be in New York on my special day, I'll go to a fun bakery and get a quartet of cupcakes (not too much - this food writer is on a strict diet.)They'll be chocolate ,for sure, with buttercream icing - not as good as mine though.Still, it's not the same with her not here physically. Birthdays for all us used to be fun. It was either our favorite meals made  (mine was risotto Milanese , the saffron drenched risott from  Italy's Lombard region) or a trip to the city for lunch or dinner at a favorite restaurant. We celebrated with a variety of different cuisines, from Belgian to Mexican to Japanese. Different dishes were ordered and shared. Gifts given and opened. Dessert then appeared and we dug into everything from creme brule to matcha ice cream. I miss those meals and the laughter that came with them

Birthdays are always with us.So are good food memories. I'll always cherish those of my Mom's choux swans  and of our birthday get togethers

The Dinner Party Issue

Spoiler alert - don't read this if you want to read about it in tomorrow's Sunday New York Times

It's going to be holiday time soon enough, and with that comes dinner parties. Luckily tomorrow's New York Times Sunday Magazine is devoted to all things cooking for a large crowd. Any home chef can follow the recipes and rules - yes, there are rules and be a modern day Pearl Mesta. It's actually easier than one would think, thanks to their  The Art of The Dinner Party.

This is definitely a keeper issue. There are stories and recipes from such heavy hitters as Sam Sifton and Tejal Rao, regular contributors to the Times' Wednesday Food section. What is great about their and other's contributions is that there is a story of how to and why  with the recipes. Home chefs will get a feel of what goes into each particular meal and how to prep the food and table. There are also rules included - mostly on how to start conversations in the little Table Talk tips . This helps any newbie host or hostess start up table talk. One valuable idea is researching some recent news item or weird science story that guests haven't heard about. This will set the ball rolling for some interesting salon like chatting. Another Table Talk  Tip is letting guests mingle and make small talk with each other. It helps in gauging  views on politics, sex and religion. Another fun sidebar is the celebrity questionnaires. Such luminaries as Quest Love, Alice Waters, John Waters, Busy Philips, and DJ Khaled are asked about who they would invite, what food and drink would they serve, where they would hold it  and what music would be played. The fun last question is how would they get people to leave (John Waters' way is a hoot). There are other sidebars too that feature memorable dinners and essays on dinner parties and being a bad guest.

Of course the issue is all about the party itself and the recipes that make it. Each is different and fun in their own ways. Take, for example, Samiin Nosrat's dumpling party,  which is really a cooking party,where everyone pitches in to make the Korean mandu or potstickers. Its' roots go back to when she was in college, busing tables, and working and eating with fellow waitstaff and cooks. It starts with feeding guests snacks first and then letting them pitch in . Tejan Rao gives us a fondue party (surprising  because she is the number one Indian chef). Hers is an informal cheese fondue,  true to the Swiss with Gruyere and Appenzeller cheeses. Bread, potatoes and cornichons are dipped in th gooey melt. She serves it with quick pickled vegetables and finishes with a thin and crisp apple tart. A more sophisticated take is famed chef, Dorie Greenspan has a French twist on it, feeding those in the food industry with gravlax, ossobucco and spiced red wine poached pears. Gabrielle Hamilton 's menu is ideal for a semi dressy cocktail dinner party. It starts out with ice cold martinis that pair with deep fried pork, braised rabbit and roasted mushroom with black lentils and croutons. Sam Sifton writes about the expandable feast complete with steamed clams with jalapeno butter, pineapple salsa, cilantro and mint salad and roasted sweet potatoes with smoked paprika.His is a relaxed do, with turning a dinner party into an expanded family dinner. He ends it with the homey Klondike bars and whiskey.

A dinner party is what you make it. It does take help and that's what the Sunday Magazine dinner party issue is for. Use it during this holiday season to create the one you want to give.

T