Thursday, April 7, 2016

The Perfect Chocolate Babka

Babka has always been the domain  of bubbies and Jewish bakeries. That's all changing  thanks to a new generation of hip home bakers discovering it. The recipe has been somewhat tweaked but the end result is the same. Chewy buttery sweet slices that always satisfy,

Melissa  Clark wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times  A Good Appetite column along with a scrumptious recipe. Babkas are experiencing a kind of renaissance right now. The trendy Sadelle's Bakery in Manhattan's Soho offers one studded with homemade chocolate cookies while competitor Breads Bakery stuffs theirs with Nutella. Other bakeries such as Bklyn Larder fills theirs with a rich ganache and Baz Bagel turns theirs into the ultimate comfort food - babka bread pudding. The cake becomes even more decadent in the Jerusalem cookbook by Yotam Ottolonghi and Sami Tamimi.It's renamed the chocolate krantz cake and is loaded with pecans. This has spawned a variety of variations. such as one filled with chocolate and raspberry jam and another soaked in honey syrup. New York's Lower East Side Russ & Daughters, originally a fish and savory shop, uses and bakes the original recipe . Theirs, according to fourth generation owner Joshua Ross Tupper advises babka is a nice balance of not too sweet cake and rich chocolate filling,It's also one the of the few traditional babkas sold and it's shipped all over the country. Ms. Clark is the rebel baker, using a rich chocolate butter cream filling in hers.

Home bakers be warned. Babka requires time and some expertise.It is working with yeast which can be tricky and time consuming. One can take all day or even longer (!) to make due to refrigerating the dough between steps. Doing this  does make it easier to manipulate  and a longer proofing period does give it a richer, more complex taste.It is easier to freeze than other breads so home chefs can make two loaves, one for now, the other for later. It is a rich buttery dough with a recipe requiring ten tablespoons of butter. and four large eggs.. The dough is transferred to buttered bowls which add to the flavor  as it bounces in and out of the fridge/Ms Clark's frosting filling also has a stick of unsalted butter along with 3/4 of a cup of heavy cream.If this isn't enough , there is over the top cocoa streusel topping. This is more butter (but only four and a half tablespoons this time) blended with cocoa , sugar and flour, It creates giant , luscious crumbs mixed in with dark chocolate chips. Home bakers can top their babkas with brown sugar streusel on top. The same goes for the filling.any sweet goo,according to Ms. Clark is acceptable. Try, jam, dulce de leche, Nutella or hot fudge sauce.

Chocolate babka is making a big comeback. Make it to enjoy its' lush buttery chocolate flavor.It may be intense to make but a dream to eat.

Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Boxed Meals - Cooking Outside The Box

Can a simple box of food change the way a family eats? Absolutely! It's a new trend where ingredients plus recipe are left on the front doorstep for the night;s meal. It's a new trend that's nourishing  the country as well as creating more legions of home chefs.

Kim Severson wrote about this new food phenomenon in today's New York Times' Food section.  She explored companies such as Blue Apron and the vegan Purple Carrot. For some it's a good idea. The companies send the exact amount of ingredients plus a fully illustrated recipe on how to make the dish. This is a great idea for busy parents who don't have time to shop or sit down and plan the week's dinner plan. It's also a good one  for those who live in rural areas where it's hard to get to supermarket especially in the winter .Blue Apron is also  a boon for  those who can't get the fancier ingredients sometimes needed to create a unique supper.Companies such as Blue Apron have a wide variety of choices that are ever changing. This week features spiced pork chops and mashed potatoes. The pork chops are coated in spices such as fennel and coriander , two spices home chefs may not think of using.Meal boxes are a learning experience for novice or not so great home chefs. They boost up confidences as home chefs learn all sorts of techniques with this at home culinary school. There are some  extended families who all order from Blue Apron and get together to cook what they've received.

The meal boxes are gaining in popularity. According to Technomic Inc., a food industry analyst predicts that the meal box industry can bring in revenues as high as five billion over the next decade. Some analysts though see signs of the trend waning. They do have some drawbacks namely in the packaging. Many of the companies do provide labels for customers to ship back the waste, including the gel packs and cardboard. These can be recycled for future packing. Also the companies are also working with packing material companies and shippers to reduce costs and garbage while keeping food cold and safe. The ultimate dream is packing the meals in containers that can be composted or turned into something else..Another aspect is Blue Apron and Purple Carrot don;t encourage creativity.Many home chefs like to puck out their ingredients and tinker with recipes. The meal boxes , though they may expand a home chef's knowledge,  canlimit what they can cook with in a meal. It also takes away from going family shopping and teaching kids about family recipes and their culinary heritage.

Boxed meals are a trend right now and they may be here to stay. They open a home chef's world to different spices and ingredients.They're worth a try for the busy or learning cook.

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Cooking With Fire And Ice

Many home chefs are afraid of of those five letter words - spice and herbs.They're afraid that it may ruin a dish or that their families may not like the fiery , cooling or even strange taste.Those are silly fears. a dash of cumin or dried ancho peppers - or even a few mint leaves can transform a simple dinner into a special one.

Spices are both a professional chef's and home chef's best friend. For those still leery about adding zing to their  recipes, start with the most basic - black pepper. Add freshly ground peppercorns to simple dishes like pan fried steak or even scrambled eggs can lift them out of the ordinary.From there they can graduate from the black kind to the other varieties such as the green, white, and pink,The next step is trying the fiery but delicious Szechuan recipes that prominently feature the spice. Chili lovers can appreciate the value of a hearty and hot three alarm chili.Some cooks balk at making it at home, however their families will love a blood warming bowl if the heat is gradually turned up.It just a simple recipe readjustment of going from one teaspoon to two.Also other spices such as paprika and cumin can also be added to give layers and subtlety to the dish too. These fire bombs can be used in other recipes as well. Think about fried chicken with the added kick of cayenne. If home chefs are leery about putting the usual three teaspoons in the batter, cut it back to only one or one and a half teaspoons..Sub in curry  for a slightly less hotter chicken.

Home chefs can also cool down a recipe by using mint - peppermint and spearmint leaves. They have been used for centuries ,in  Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines to offset spicy flavors. Greeks have added the leaves to yogurt  as a cooling side to heavily spiced lamb and vegetable dishes. It's a simple mix of adding two teaspoons of dried leaves to  Greek yogurt. Tabbouleh gets a refreshing lift from it as well. This blend  of bulgar or cracked wheat ,cucumbers, tomatoes and onions are mixed with freshly minced  parsley and mint leaves for a nice cooling side with grilled kabobs and veggies.The herb can also be ground into pesto.The leaves have the same consistency as basil so it's very easy to grind into a paste.As with the original , Parmesan cheese and pine nuts are added along with lemon  to give it some tartness. It can be served with any kind of pasta but would be best with penne or rotelli. Try it drizzled over a cold pasta salad when barbecue season rolls around.Another warm weather dish  that's cooling is sliced cucumbers in a mint sour cream sauce. Spearmint , usually reserved for tea, can sub in if you don;t have peppermint leaves. Try it with lamb or poultry.

There's nothing wrong with adding a little fire - or a little ice to liven up a dish. Experiment with different spices and herbs.They'll add zing to a once boring dinner.

Monday, April 4, 2016

Refrigerator Roulette

There are days when a home chef doesn't feel like going out and food shopping. Then there are days when the fridge is full of leftovers. If that's the case, then  get creative with what' in the fridge and freezer. It's surprising what fun dishes can be created by what's in them..

The freezer can always yield up something for lunch or dinner. . There may be frozen veggies or some burgers that wound up there and then forgotten. Home chefs can cook the veggies with melted butter and then toss some Parmesan cheese on them for a different spin.They can also be used in making pot pies with meat left over from any Sunday roast. Use beef stock or even cream of chicken soup for the pies' gravy. That extra can of biscuit dough you thought you'd use for Easter but didn't can be used to make the crust. If you have Pillsbury  Grands Biscuits you can make individual pot pies using a muffin tin, Leftover ham can be sliced thin and used to make filling for a Croque Monsieur. Frozen burgers can be turned into patty melts , thanks to cheese slices and toast. They can also be used for pizza topping and  for adding some oomph to pasta.What about hot dogs? Think cheddar dogs if you have any cheese or better yet open a can of chili for chili dogs. Even restaurant leftovers can be combined with almost anything in the fridge. The white rice you took home Saturday night  from the Chinese restaurant can be added to the soup leftover from last night  to stretch it.

Salads are one of the best ways to use up what's in the fridge. Slice up that leftover roast beef and turkey and add it to those Spring greens and grape tomatoes for a flavorful salad. Sliced chicken can be added to a bowl of Romaine lettuce along with dried cranberries and walnuts  to create a filling but low calorie dinner. Add cut apples and even grapes to  turn it into a take on a Waldorf salad.Turn bacon, hard boiled  eggs and spinach into a tasty salad,Throw in thinly sliced white cap mushrooms for extra protein, The fridge can provide home chefs with the ingredients for homemade dressings too. One of the easiest to make is French dressing, The simplest recipe is just mayo and ketchup mixed with oil and red wine vinegar. Some recipes call for Worcester sauce  along with a sprinkle of paprika for color and sugar for added sweetness. Sub in dark honey for the sugar for a mellower, richer flavor. Add relish and you have Thousand Island dressing. Homemade Russian dressing is another product of fridge roulette It's the same mix of  ingredients as the other two dressings but has the double jolt of horseradish and hot sauce. it can also be used in the traditional Reuben sandwich too.

If your fridge is full or you're too tired to food shop then play refrigerator roulette. The results can be fun and a testament to creativity.Try it not just to use the food but to surprise yourself  ad familywith the results

Saturday, April 2, 2016

Sides Taking Over

It's usually the side dishes that get all the applause. Guests may like stuffed mushrooms or the kids may like the the squash  instead of the roast. Is it possible to just make a meal of them then and forgo the main dish? Yes, if it's done right. A home chef can make a fun and nutritious meal by just using the second string.

Everyone loves stuffed mushrooms, They usually accompany a beef roast but can be made on their own. Use the portabella ones for a truly hearty meal. They can be stuffed with a variety of different ingredients. Try Italian sausage and mozzarella or crab meat and parsley, Vegetarians will love a spinach and eggplant one. You can also throw in some  white or brown rice too to round it out. The smaller white cap ones can be used  to make bite size versions. Another idea that involves mushrooms is mixing them with rice. Use the arborio  kind and you wind up with mushroom risotto. Rice itself is always the perfect side because it complements any meat poultry and fish.yet on its' own it can be a tasty and filling. Think about combining it with leftover chicken or ham along with some carrots broccoli and onions for a variation of fried rice.Rice patties are another idea. They're bound together with Parmesan  cheese and broccoli, then baked for fifteen minutes. The rounds can be made with brown rice too.Couscous is usually a side dish too but it can be stepped up to be a major player. Add some currents and chopped shallots and it turns into an exotic Moroccan dish.

Veggies have always been relegated to second string however they can shine on their own Squash can be stuffed with everything from beef to rice. It can also be filled with ground chestnuts or couscous too. Spaghetti squash is a great dinner .It's baked for forty-five minutes , scraped out and then served like any pasts. Try it with a rich marinara or a delicate burro or butter sauce. For true vegans  serve with a tomato sauce and chickpea meatballs.Zucchini is another side that can be stuffed and made into the star of the dinner table. Kids will love having zucchini boats for their meal instead of the usual garlic sauteed coins.They're an easy recipe starting with boiling or steaming the gourds and then slicing them in half. The pulp is scooped out then mixed with cheese, egg, beef, chicken or spinach  along with seasonings .It's then put into the squash shells and baked for twenty minutes at 350 degrees Farenheit. String beans, long the second banana to almost every dinner Yet serve it with pasta in an aglia e olio,, garlic and oil sauce and it's a fantastic dinner.Stir fry green beans with tofu and ginger for a yummy Asian influenced supper.

Sides can go from being a supporting player to the star of the dinner table. Any vegetable or grain can be revamped into a tasty and satisfying main dish.Don;t let them linger in the shadows any more.

Friday, April 1, 2016

No Joke The Best Kid's Cookbooks Ever!!

The best gift prents ca give their children is a knowledge and love of cooking. Once learned it can not be forgotten. ANother gift is the sense of adventure and trying new cuisines. Luckily there are some great new children's cookbooks that can aid home chefs in training their little sous chefs.

Quarry Publishing has put out three great cookbooks for the family. each one features a different cuisine, French, Italian and Spanish. They are written by experts in the field. The French was by Claudine Pepin, Jacques' daughter (Papa Pepin and her daughter , Shorey did the amazing illustrations for it), the Italian was written by  Anna Prandoni and the Spanish was penned by Gabriela Llamas .The last two authors are a cookbook writer and catering/culinary teacher respectively. All three cookbooks are bilingual so kids and parents can learn a new language or brush up on the ones they know. Every recipe comes with an explanation and they best represent the countries featured. All three books sing to the adventurous home chef in me but it's the Italian one that really impresses.It features some of the Piedmontese recipes that I ate growing up.Not too many cookbooks feature vitello e tonno, veal in tuna sauce , gnocchi and rice in parsley along with apple fritters, Ms. Pranodi comes from Piedmonte's neighbor, Lombardy , and both provinces have heavily influenced each other on a culinary level.

I love these books and wish they had been around when I was a kid.I love Ms. Pepin's recipes (and her dad and daughter's sweet illustrations) for the cherry rich dessert clafoutis and spinach with bechamel, a great dish to get the kids hooked on the green stuff. There is the super easy and super tasty croque Monsieur along with herb roasted potatoes and sauteed Swiss chard. Again the Italian cookbook has both Northern and Southern Italian cuisine. There is also homemade pizza, sure to be a family classic. Families will love making mozzarella in carrozza, breaded and fried mozzarella and for afterwards the all time favorite tiramisu. The Spanish family cookbook has such treats as the classic hot cocoa with churros , cinnamon fritters,a perfect marriage of Old and New World flavors. Both parents and kids will love the simple but flavorful bread with olive oil ,tomato and Iberian ham. Another fun recipe  - for the adults is the Amontillado sherry laced meatballs made of a mix of veal, breadcrumbs and carrots.There is also torrijas, Spanish French toast served with a honey sauce and apples in custard.  Bakers will enjoy making the Santiago Almond cake ,made in honor of the country's patron saint, James.

Parents should buy all three "Let's Cook" cookbooks, for both themselves and their children. It's never too early - or late to teach a little one about cooking and foreign cuisines. These books are a must in any home library!


Thursday, March 31, 2016

Masala Explained

Masala is a staple in Indian cooking.It is a blend of various spices that vary from region to region and family to family. Getting the right flavor can be tricky.However , with practice even American home chefs can create the perfect masala. Once made it can be added to anything from barbecue  to even mashed potatoes.

Kim Severson wrote about the classic flavoring in yesterday's New York Times Food section. She had help thanks to Raghavan Iyer who has written books and conducted demonstrations on how to cook food of the Subcontinent. She caught him as he was giving advice and lessons to the cafeteria cooks at Emory University in Atlanta, Georgia.Mr Iyer goes to various campuses , both academic and corporate to teach cooks and workers how to cook Indian food. it is popular now thanks to a large influx of Indian workers and students.It also makes a nice change from the usual cafeteria food too.lt does have to be made according to the original recipe due to cultural awareness. Teaching how to make any ethnic meal properly is valuable and important in respecting the various cultures that make up the country.Many cafeteria workers, like home chefs, have no idea what to do with the wide array of spices that are vital in Indian cuisine. Mr. Iyers demystifies that , explaining how one kind of spice can be prepared three different ways.

Masala is an easy prep, once home chefs get the hang of making it.The trickiest part, according to Mr. Iyer is getting the yellow split peas and spices called for the recipe.It requires fresh curry leaves which can easily be bought at Indian and international markets. They are not required but do add an anise like flavor to the mix.  Home chefs can customize the recipe to their tastes. The recipe given is sambhar masala from Southern India  and is Mr Iyer's mother-in-law's recipe. It is a melange of different seeds, from the common such as cumin, poppy, coriander and mustard to the exotic fenugreek. Curry leaves are added, and again, no sweat if they can;t be found.There are also Thai or cayenne chilis added for heat and cinnamon for sweetness. They have to be cooked with sesame oil until the split peas turn brown and the mustard seeds pop. Half the mixture is then put into a spice or coffee grinder.Grind until the texture is like that of finely ground pepper. It can be stored for up to two months,It is versatile. It can be made into a quick curry if it's added to shrimp and coconut milk or make grilled veggies more exotic. Mr. Iyers likes to add it and clarified butter or ghee to mashed potatoes.Home chefs can try it with anythig , from kebobs, to roasts for a true Indian flavor.

Home chefs will love cooking with masala once they deconstruct it. It's a spice mix that's rapidly gaining fans and favor  thanks to its' versatility.Make it and liven up any dish with its' smokey, sweet fieriness.