Fried Chicken Done Right

One of the summer standards is fried chicken. There's nothing more mouth watering than crunchy,  and juicy pieces served on their own or with dipping sauces. How to make it? There in lies the big question There are many different ways,all good,all bringing out the best of the bird's flavor.

Sam Sifton wrote about this classic American recipe in his The Guide column in today's New York Times  Food section. It's one of the most debated recipes in our  history. There have been battles about what kind of coating to use and what's the best medium to fry it in. As he points out it starts with the bird itself.Usually a three or four pound chicken is the best for frying. It will yield up  to ten parts, two drumsticks, two wings two thighs and two breasts. This will satisfy four people. Chicken parts such as all wings or drumsticks can also be bought if there's a crowd to be fed. Breasts can also be bought on their on too. The next step is brining and there are many different types, all good. Novice home chefs can try a  basic brine, made up of only kosher salt and water.Chopped garlic, a few herbs and even sugar can be added to it. Many fried chicken aficionados swear by the buttermilk brine.It's a mix of four cups of fresh buttermilk, kosher salt and a good dose of freshly ground pepper. For a more unusual spin there is the pickle brine, a blend of just pickle juice, This is not crazy.It makes the bird super flavorful and juicy, Other brines include that Southern classic cola brine  which gives it a nice caramel color and sweetness along with cider that also produces a sweet, fallish flavor that would be great at any tailgating party.

What makes a great piece of fried chicken? The crust, of course! It  should be a starch or a batter. Some home and professional chefs first dip the pieces in buttermilk, eggs or milk before coating. The easiest breading method is placing the chicken in a large paper bag filled with flour seasoned with salt , pepper, and possibly paprika and /or hot pepper. This can be varied with gluten free flour, cracker crumbs and even potato starch. For a more tempura flavor use the Japanese breadcrumbs called panko.  The more wild and adventurous  will use crumbled Doritos, Cheetos or even potato chips. Close the bag . shake and then shake off the excess flour. A big bowl can also be used for dredging the pieces, Stick with tradition for the frying pan.It has to be a heavy wide skillet with a lid.It should be eleven to twelve inches in diameter and deep to prevent spattering.The second most important ingredient is what the chicken is fried in. Some use lard while others prefer oil. What is needed is an oil with a high smoke point which means it can be heated to a high temp without smoking. The best for this is peanut , canola and vegetable oil. Do not use butter or olive oil. It can be served with dipping sources such as a Korean chili sauce or  a Filipino one made with maple syrup , lemon juice , fish sauce and chilis.

Fried chicken is an American classic recipe that everyone loves. There are so many ways to make it. Any way is good, full of golden , delicious crisp goodness.

Vegan For The Summer

One of the best aspects of summer is that you can nix the meats and live off the land - literally. This is a great time to take that long promised stab at vegetarianism, thanks to all the harvests right now. It's time to discover all these hot weather veggies and the dishes that go with them.

Squash is always popular and is in full harvest right now. Many home farmers have an abundance of them, thanks to their hardiness and ability to thrive. They are versatile from their delicate flowers to the mature vegetable. Squash flowers, those fragile yet delicious blooms, are best made into a kind of fritter. This Provencale and Piedmontese recipe is easy,The flowers do have to be picked early morning before they close for the day. They're then washed and patted dry , ready for battering. The batter is a simple mix of  one cup each of flour and water. One egg and one tablespoon oil are also added for body. The flowers can be fried in margarine,oil, or the preferred French way, butter until crisp. Mature squash is another great versatile veggie.It can be turned into a green version of spaghetti, thanks to a neat little gadget called Veggetti. This hourglass shaped spiralizer turns any squash into a tasty pile of noodles. They can be made with sauce but a better and healthier way is sauteing them in olive oil, tempered with margarine and minced garlic. The spiralizer can also be used to make a tasty cucumber slaw too. Serve with an apple cider based vinaigrette for a nice cool salad.

Of course it's the season of the tomatoes. These bright red gems are the stars of any summer harvest and rightly so. They can be made into any type of dish., from starters to even dessert (technically they classified as fruit). Try them as bruschetta, piled on top of toasted crunchy rounds of Italian bread or as a flavorful salsa. The last can also highlight other summer stars green peppers and onions. This is the time to make homemade sauces for those fall and winter pasta dinners. Fresh ones are great in a pasta crudo where  they 're mixed raw with just cooked spaghetti or angel hair pasta. One of the best way to have them is in a sandwich.Toast your favorite bread, slather on mayo and them layer on the tomato slices Tomaotes can even be turned into a sorbet for an unusual but flavor packed dessert..Another use for them along with eggplants and onions are the French classic ratatouille.Novice home chefs may be put off by the name's fanciness but it's really easy to make.It's basically sauteing sliced the veggies in a garlic and oregano spiced olive oil.They're then cooked down until tender. It's usually served with crusty baguette slices to sop up the juices however it can also be served with rice too. Green and red peppers can be added along with zucchini to mix it up a bit.

Anyone can go vegan on a summer diet thanks to all these abundant harvests. Take advantage of them of them and cook healthy. It's a great boost to your health and to your taste buds!

Going Back To The Outback

Outback Steakhouse is one of those chain restaurants that guarantees good fun and good food. it does live up to its' promise and proved to be entertaining. What was the big surprise is that it also promises healthy food. Who knew that the place that offers the Blooming Onion could offer blooming nutritious. ? It was  time to go back to the restaurant from Down Under.

There was a twenty year gap between this visit and my last to Outback Steakhouse. It still had the long wait (nearly half an hour) even at nine PM  - although it was a Saturday night, the most popular time to go. A new generations of servers were on hand to sing Happy Birthday to other diners as well as to eagerly wait. The decor is still the same, with those many nooks and booths that give semi privacy. The menu is as big as ever. Yes, there still is the Blooming Onion which has always been there and not going anywhere,despite protests from nutritionists and health nuts. There are still steaks and the only thing that sort of rings Aussie is the New Zealand lamb. Surprisingly the restaurant is all American , originating out of Tampa, Florida in 1988. It was created by Bob Basham, Chris T.Sullivan,, Trudy Cooper and Tim Gannon. Chris T. Smith went on to create other  popular chain restaurants, Carrabba's Grill,Fleming's Steakhouse and Wine Bar, Bonefish Grill and Cheeseburger In Paradise. Outback is a fun place, whether for a date or a family night out. Happily they've changed their menu to reflect the push for healthier foods.There a smaller version of the Blooming Onion along with meals that are under six hundred calories. There are also more nutritious sides to choose from.

How is the food? Still good. I did have qualms going there however after seeing the 600 calorie meals, felt better. They start you off with a warm loaf of sweet brown bread and butter which is a nice opener. My group and I ordered the Bloomin Petals a smaller version of the onion.It was still a
 copious pile of deep fried batter dipped "petals" served with a spicy chipotle sauce, a bit oily to eat so late but crunchy and delicious. I liked the fact that there as a choice of soup and salad with the  meal and opted for the bowl of French onion soup (to be honest I would have just preferred this, given the late hour).It was rich with a good beef stock and perfect amount of cheese. Outback is first and foremost a steak house and there was a multitude of cuts to choose from. I went with the most healthiest the smallest cut of sirloin with a side of mixed veggies.. The meat was just the right size and cooked to a tender and juicy medium. The mix of broccoli and carrots was a bit plain but that was remedied with a ramekin of butter. Their burger was equally good, dense  and juicy. Dessert was a huge wedge of their six layer chocolate cake served with ramekins of whipped cream and raspberry coulis. The crumb was suitably moist and the icing fudgy, made a bit more palatable with the tangy fruit sauce.

Will there be another gap between this visit and my next visit to the Outback Steakhouse. No, I was impressed with the quality and flavor as well as many healthy and nutritious choices.It's definitely on my must visit again list.

Feeding The Animals

Even animals, both domestic and feral need a break during these hot days. They , too, suffer from the heat and its' consequences. Make it a bit easier on them so they can enjoy and survive this humid weather. They'll feel better and so will you.

One of the musts for any indoor or out door creature is a cool bowl of water. One of the best ideas is to put an ice cube or two so that the water maintains that refreshing coldness. Chilled milk is fine for both your domestic kitty and feral visitor. Just keep it out of the direct sunlight along with diluting it with water (pure milk can cause stomach problems and diarrhea). As for food, you can let the ferals gnaw on any ribs or bits and pieces of dogs and burgers leftover from your barbecue. It's better, though  just to open up a can of food because the scraps may be too much for certain cats and dogs. If you've just started to feel ferals or are starting a feral cat colony, remember that other animals, primarily raccoons, will also eat whatever you',ve left out. What you can do is provide them with extra grub in the form of leftover bread and cookies.(for some reason they're partial towards sweets however don't give them anything with chocolate in it. chocolate is lethal for raccoons too).If you're lucky enough to have deer, then feed them accordingly. They eat plant,s fruit and nuts. You could buy extra melon or drupe fruit such as nectarines, plums and peaches and then pit them. Just remember that deer cannot eat corn. It's highly lethal and can cause extreme sickness.

Just like many of us, the homeless also have companion animals. Like ours they need to have proper food and water to survive.If you do have a homeless person on your block with a cat or dog, treat the companion to a meal. Set out some bowls with ice water and either dry or wet food. Also check to see if the animal is showing signs of dehydration. They will usually have sunken eyes, the skin can be tented (to see this pick up the folds of skin along the spine and see if it snaps back into place. If not the animal may need subcutaneous fluids which a vet or vet tech can give you or can administer) and pale , shrunken gums. Some homeless shelters like the ones in Los Angeles and New York City will also take in companion pets however if not offer to foster the animal in your back yard or garage.Another idea is supplying food pantries with dog and cat food. Many people do have companion animals but don't have the extra money for food. Donate what you can to your nearest shelter, whether it's dry or wet, aimed at kittens and puppy or senior cats and dogs. Also donate to your nearest no kill shelter as well. To show your appreciation , consider giving the staff there a tray of cupcakes or donating to their barbecues. Many work tirelessly to help these abandoned and unwanted creatures.Show them your gratitude  for what  they are doing.

Animals too need a break in this hot weather. Make sure they're well hydrated and well fed. They'll appreciate it with a purr or a wagging tail.

Mussels A Summer Treat

One of the best summer pairings is a plate of steamed mussels, usually served dockside with an icy cold beer. The seafood itself is good a variety of ways and its' an easy cook for home chefs. The best part of them is that they're fun to eat on a hot summer's night.

Mussels are both a fresh and salt water fish and a member of the clam or bivalve family. They're usually found clumped together on the exposed shores of an intertidal  or seashore area. They attach themselves to each other by their "beards" or byssal threads. Mussels have been eaten by humans for millennia and there are seventeen varieties of them. Most fish stores and restaurants usually have the black or navy blue shelled ones. The Belgians are the ones to go mad for them , usually serving them with fries or frites along with a good Belgian beer, The Italians and Spanish usually serve them steamed with white wine and lemon while the Spanish also turn them into croquettes with other seafood. Mussels are steamed in garlic and black bean broth while the Turkish fry them and then put them back into their shells The Indians serve them as a plate with chicken drumsticks, breadfruit and other vegetables. They're also made with coconut paste and rice and then, like the Turks, stuffed back into their shells. Many Americans usually first encounter them at their local pizzeria where they're served with marinara sauce.

There is just one thing to remember when buying them. Living ones will shut tightly when they're taken out of the water and exposed to air. If they remain open, they should be tossed because they're not living.Cleaning them is easy, Put them in a large bowl of water as soon as you get them home. They should remain there for twenty minutes, expelling water (they are filters,after all) and sand. The next step is de-bearding. This requires holding a mussel  in one hand and cover the grasping hand with a towel, Now give it a sharp yank, pulling in the direction of the hinge. The mussels have to be rinsed a second time and then scrubbed of any exterior sand or barnacles.Use a firm brush for this. There are a variety of ways to cook them.Most recipes call for steaming them in white wine but you can use water as well, usually one cup. You can serve them topped with a homemade or even store bought marinara sauce along with a large loaf of crusty Italian bread. You can also go the Belgian route by steaming them in a savory broth of  beer and a variety of herbs such as rosemary, thyme and oregano. They are served with piping hot julienne fries and mayo but you can just have a loaf of crusty, French bread and Stella Artois on hand.

A fun summer meal is a plate of fresh steamed mussels. Make them just for yourself or for a party. They are an easy and delicious, a no fuss meal for these sweltering days.

A Rare Grape A New Wine

Is it possible for a wine to be new and salty? Surprisingly yes.There's a different kind of wine hitting oenophile's palates this summer and it's far from the other traditional whites.

Eric Asimov wrote about this refreshing change of pace in his Pour column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He interviewed wine maker Salvo Foti at his vineyard located in the shadow of the famed Mt. Etna. He grows the rare carricante grapes that have been part of the Sicilian landscape  for millennia. They grow well  in the spongy volcanic soil. that's constantly soaked by endless rainstorms. In fact the Italian bureaucrats have recognized the area's affinity for the variety. In fact the brand Etna Bianco Superiore with 80 percent carricante can only come from the town,The flavor is unique because it has a certain salinity or saltiness Yet they can also be herbal and citrus tasting with a great minerality.. The wines are high in acidity and low in alcohol. They're different from the usual Sicilian whites, such as catarrato which can be bland tasting and low in acidity. Grillo and inzolia grapes can also be used for white wine however winemakers prefer using them for making the vastly popular  sweet, red Marsalas.American winemakers are taking notice of the grape. Californian winemaker, Kevin Harvey of Rhys Vineyards of the Santa Cruz Mountains is interested in growing the  variety.

Mr. Asimov suggests trying other carricante whites. They're not as rich , deep or complex as the Etna Bianco Superiore however they are cheaper ($20 to the other's $50) There is Tenuta delle Terre Nere which is only sixty-five percent carricante blended with four other grapes for a nice alternative.Like the better one, it does taste of herbs and citrus, and is both fresh and refreshing. There is the Outis  made by wine maker, Ciro Biondi whose vineyards are on the island's warmer southeast section,It is fresh and energetic with a fresh, lemony taste. There is also the 2014 vintage single vineyard Chianta Bianco that has a scent like a big basket of flowers. Another carricante based wine is Vigna de Milo which comes from outside the Etna region (and is also made by Signore Foti. Mr. Asimov declared it almost oceanic with great salinity and minerality. There is also Alberto Aiello  Graci's carricante, coming from north Etna which is seventy per cent and has a flavor that's herbal, mineral and sublime.  Carricante wines will probably be more and more popular here in the States as Californian wineries  start growing them,  I can see their novelty appealing to many American oenophiles , thanks to the novel salty taste.

Carricante wine is a different and refreshing alternative to the usual white wine. Try it chilled, this summer. Sip and pretend you're on a Sicilian beach , enjoying the breezes off the Mediterrenean

In Situ - A Restaurant Celebrating The Art Of Cooking

Many restaurants take pride  in signature dishes. After all , they're what give any eatery, bistro or cafe their reputation and following. Yet a new restaurant in San Francisco is doing the opposite. The chef is taking world famous  recipes from restaurants around the world and putting a new spin on them.

Pete Wells interviewed In Situ's creator and chef, Corey Lee in his A Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section. The concept is unique in an industry where individuality is key to success,The restaurant with the closest ideology is Chicago''s Next, founded by Grant Achaz , which  completely changes menus every four months. Of course Chef Lee also owns a traditional restaurant, Benu where there is only seven main dishes to choose from.In Situ is sort of like a culinary art museum. Even the name, comes from the Latin phrase meaning a piece of art is embedded in its' original location. Its' menus  are folded and fastened with  metal museum admission tags and look like  guides to a gallery exhibition of works that are on temporary loan. One side of the menu depicts  a map of the world tilted on its' axis. The reason for this is showing a dislocation of sorts that hints' that there is a shift from the recipe's original location to In Situ's. Circles on the map show the many dishes many birthplaces.There is a key in the menu's right margin that gives each's ingredients ,it's originator;s name and the city where it was created.

  Chef Lee is so good that he  even earned praise from the famed WD-50 chef  Wylie Dufresne. What he had done with Chef Dufresne's signature dish shrimp and grits is nothing short of amazing.The grits in Chef Lee's interpretation are actually the shrimp repeatedly ground and fried married to pickled jalapeno slices.Another masterpiece is The Forest ,taken from Mirazur in Menton, France,The original dish created by Chef Mauro Colagreco fashioned this vegan dish to look like the woods outside his restaurant on the French Riviera,It involves recreating moss from a parsley soaked sponge cake while the bark is created from fried sunchoke peels. Chef Colagreco gave Chef Lee permission to use mushrooms from Northern California for true authenticity as opposed to ones used from Provence, A dish from the great eatery, Momufuku Ssam Bar is also on In Situ's menu. It is spicy pork sausage and rice cakes. Chef Lee amped up this ragout with sliced rice sticks,  turning it into a mapo-tofu.For dessert Chef Lee honors Chez Panisse,It is a salute to Alice Waters lemon ice cream  dish in a hollowed out lemon shell placed next to lemon sherbert. A lemon flavored cat's tongue or langue du chat shares the spotlight.

Chefs are usually encouraged to create signature dishes, reflecting their tastes and backgrounds Chef Corey Lee breaks away from that by putting his own spin on already famous dishes. The result is stunning and delicious, the perfect homage from a culinary master.