Orthodox Easter Fasts And Feasts

This is Holy Week in both Greek and Russian Orthodoxy, It is a time of strict fasting followed by glorious feasting celebrating the Lord's resurrection. Ancient traditions are honored and acted upon with recipes passed down for generations. They reflect the people and the lands that created them.

The Orthodox  Easter has to follow Passover , since it takes the New Testament literally and is
based on the Julian calendar (while Catholics and Protestants celebrate the Gregorian calendar one). Both religions have heavy fasting periods, especially around Lent (there is also a Christmas fast too). Even the weeks before Lent have purifying fasts where meat and other animal products are not allowed but dairy and eggs are permissible . The Lenten period kicked off with a Clean Monday fast where no food is eaten the first Monday until Wednesday evening. This is the longest fast in the church calendar. The second through the sixth  weeks sees them nix almost everything except fruits vegetables, wheat products and water. This makes for sparse  but healthy eating. Luckily they can eat nuts so peanut butter and bread provide some sustenance Wine and oil are only allowed on the weekends. There is a meal eaten on Holy Thursday then strict fasting (absolutely no food) on Good Friday. It is broken on Holy Saturday after the liturgy of Saint Basil. Fruit and some wine are allowed for sustenance.

Both Greek and Russian Easters are glorious affairs . The Greeks have a light meal after midnight mass to ease into eating. Some roast a whole lamb on a spit while others also roast goaton Easter Sunday. Both are usually stuffed with rice, pine nuts, cinnamon and raisins. The Russians  celebrate with   the tasty stroganoff, beef strips in smetana or sour cream or chicken kiev, a rolled and breaded chicken breast filled with garlic butter and herbs. Bread is important with both. The Greek Orthodox bake a fluffy challah like loaf studded with bright red eggs. The braids  called tsoureki symbolizes the Holy Trinity while the eggs are symbolic of Christ's blood. The Russians go wild with their Easter breads too and create the large airy kulich. This is a bread that bakes in coffee or juice cans and resembles the Italian panettone or pan d'oro in shape and height but is spiced with saffron and cardamon. A thick confectioner's glaze is poured on top and then topped with a heavy dose of colorful sprinkles. Cheese is also a big Easter treat There is pashka a kind of cheesecake mold that has Pascals symbols on it.It's  a rich mix of farmer's cheese , heavy cream , egg yolk and sugar. The Greeks have a savory  and sweet cheese dishes ,depending on the location.

The Oerhodox Holy week is an interesting time, beginning with fasts and ending with feasts. The foods to end celebrate are amazing, rich in tradition and in flavor. They are true gems passed dow from generation to generation.

The Challenges Of Passover Cooking

Passover is one of the most ancient and traditional of meals. However with any  holiday meal, it can pose challenges ,leaving home  chefs to scratch their heads. One problem is vegetarianism - the other how to make something new with a limited allowance of ingredients. Not to worry - there are solutions.

Many families have to embrace their kids or relatives new vegetarian lifestyle. What happens then to the lamb or brisket?It can still be made but new dishes have to be added.One idea is vegetarian potato and mushroom croquettes, more or less based on latkes. These are really patties that also has onion added for flavor . The binder is ground maztoh meal. The potatoes are first boiled and mashed and then the sauteed onions and mushrooms are the added as are the crumbs. The croquettes are then mounded and fried in extra virgin olive oil (it is considered suitable for Passover cooking) for eight minutes until crisp.A more colorful dish is roasted beet casserole. This recipe works for both vegans and vegetarians.It's simply layering sliced beets in a lightly oiled baking dish and then sprinkling salt, sugar and paprika on top of them. It's then dotted with margarine and baked for half a hour. Spinach and leek can come together with potato to create a kind of strata.It is labor intensive with  cooking the potatoes first however they can be microwaved to save time. There is also making the cashew "cheese" which also requires avocado and layering of the different ingredients from soaked matzoh to leeks and baby spinach.

Another challenge for Passover home chefs is the dessert.Leavening is not allowed so that rules out many cakes.However that also forces a lot of creative thinking.  A mock chestnut torte is  an elegant way to solve this problem. Since chestnut puree is not acceptable for the holiday, mashed sweet potato can be used as the base. The dessert has an almost souffle like quality because the six eggs required are separated and the whites are made into a meringue first before being added to the mix of sweet potatoes, yolks and dark chocolate.Melted chocolate is drizzled over the cake as a glaze and then it's decorated with raspberries.Macaroons are a traditional must and these, too, can be made at home.It's an easy recipe that just needs egg yolks , granulated sugar and  two cups ground almonds. Home chefs can also make the coconut ones too, subbing in the ground almond with shredded coconuts and using the egg whites instead of the yolks, Chocolate chips can be added  or cocoa powder added to the recipe for richer treats. Kids will love matzoh brittle, matzoh topped with homemade caramel and dark chocolate and then broken into bite sized pieces.

Passover cooking should not come with problems. There are solutions for dealing with vegetarianism as well as what to make for dessert. These provide for a tasty meal that suits everyone;s beliefs and taste with ending on a high sweet note.

The Diversity of Ecuadorian Cuisine

Ecuador is primarily known for the Galapagos Islands where Charles Darwin developed his evolution theories. However it should also be known for its' varied cuisine that reflects its history and topography.It's an interesting blend of sea and land along with some ancient recipes..

Like most South American countries Ecuador has a mountainous area leading into coastal lowlands. Pork chicken and beef are popular in the mountains along with cuy or guinea pig. The last,  a shocker to any North American who had one as a companion, is made with garlic and native chilis along with pisco, an Ecuadorian brandy.It's one of the country's most ancient dishes, first being cooked by the Incas. Cuy was a sign of wealth too, being enjoyed by the local Incan royalty and used also to portend omens.However the country is also known for its' other dishes such as their version of arroz con pollo that is highly spiced with cumin and achiote, a plant derivative that adds a red color to the dish. There's also fritada de gallina, chicken made with fermented corn drink or chicha along with garlic and onion.There's also a kind of chicken fried rice ,chaulafan de pollo that's spiked with bacon, scrambled eggs and even raisins along with veggies and spices. Students make arroz con huevos, rice and eggs tweaked with plantains and avocados,Plantains or plantanos are also big in Ecuadorian cuisine. They are usually stuffed with cheese or topped with it.

The country has a lush coastline and its' reflected in its seafood dishes. They're mostly shrimp but cooked in  variety of different ways There is arroz con camarones , a kind of paella spiked with native spices along with onions , peppers and tomatoes. Chorizos, those highly spiced pork sausages can also be added.Another paella influenced dish is arroz marinero which is chock full of not only shrimp but also clams, squid and bay scallops.The Ecuadorians also appreciate beef and pork dishes as well as lamb. Many home kitchens produce carne colorada, a braised beef dish that's been marinaded in a mix of beer, garlic and oregano. Pork is also a staple and it's the base of pernil, a holiday  pork dish popular throughout South and Central America.It's a pork loin marinated in bitter orange juice along with clove and cinnamon for a few hours. Lamb is also marinaded , especially in the dish seco de borrego, A combo of beer and wine is poured over it as well as the usual Ecuadorian combo of achiote and cumin.The Ecuadorians love goat too and make a stew out of it with the native fruit naranjillo, a type of kiwi that has a tart  and acidic flavor. Chicha is also added for some kick.

Ecuador is an interesting country , full of wild and wonderful dishes. They reflect a country that has both Incan and European influences in its' cuisine. The food is tasty, flavorful and good.

Remember those affected by the Ecuadorian earthquake. Donate to the Red Cross now.

Another Take On Asparagus

Asparagus is the star  of the Spring season as it was mentioned last week here, It's is popular in a variety of dishes. The stalks really are versatile, being perfect in crepes or as a stir fry.

David Tanis knows this and wrote about them in his column A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section . This is the height of the asparagus season on the East Coast. This is when the stalks taste the best and have the best texture. Should foodies eat  the Peruvian ones  or the west Coast ones from Southern California and Mexico available all year round?.Yes, if the craving is that strong but Mr. Tanis advises waiting.The stalks will taste better and be that much more satisfying as the season rolls in.There is also the problem of jet lag, meaning the veggies may be picked fresh , but as we all know that freshness only lasts for a short period.What do raw talks look like? The spears should be smooth and glossy with  tightly closed tips. The bottom ends should look just cut too. This means the asparagus is fresh.As with any cut green, that freshness needs to be maintained until cooking. Advocates recommend standing the spears upright in the fridge in an inch of cold water, similar to what you'd do with cut flowers. The best bet is cooking the asparagus the day you buy it. The fresh  taste won't be diminished then.

Asparagus  spears come in three widths: pencil thin, medium and jumbo.If you go for the ultra skinny remember to cut it into two inch lengths and either saute or stir fry. The thicker ones are better steamed or grilled, roasted or simmered. These are the most versatile to work with .If you do opt for the fatter ones, remember that they need to be peeled.It's beneficial for cooking and for a more silkier texture. Medium or thin ones don;t need this extra process. White asparagus, also popular right now always needs peeling.Cut off or snap off  tough bottoms. If home chefs choose the latter then they should hold their hands towards the bottom end of the stalks or too much will be discarded. Be warned. Stalks can snap in the middle if the technique is carelessly done.The main thing , no matter the size or cooking method, is to make sure the spears are properly cooked. Keep them bright green and firm.As Mr. Tanis advises it's better to keep them underdone, residual heat will cause them to continue cooking as they get lifted out. The recipes are stuffing them into buckwheat crepes, stir frying them with walnuts and butter braising them. The last recipe is probably the best way to enjoy them, There's also lemon juice and fresh herbs such as  dill, parsley, tarragon and chervil to bring out the sweet earthiness.

Take advantage of asparagus season while it's here. Now is the time to enjoy those tender , fresh Springy stalks. Make them any way , just to relish that greenness.

Celebrating The Persian New Year

Before there was Passover and Easter there was the Persian New Year or Nowruz. This holiday brought in the new Spring season along with a variety of different dishes.It shows Iranian cooking at it's best,, full of colors and flavors.

Melissa Clark wrote about this precursor of Spring holidays in her A Good Appetite in today's New York Times Food section.Nowruz is one of those non-religious holidays, similar to our Thanksgiving in the sense that all religions, Muslim, Jewish and Christian celebrate this ancient Zoroastrian holiday that has been celebrated continually for 3,000 years, millenniums before Islamic conquest .Preparations for it include many rites that are familiar to us. There are dyed eggs, complete housecleaning and copious amounts of herbs. Nowruz occurred on March 13th of this year however the holiday dishes can be enjoyed all season long. the holiday lasts for thirteen days with feasting and visiting.Los Angeles has the most Iranians however it surprisingly lacks Persian restaurant. Most holiday dinners occur at home with home cooking and ancient recipes. The dishes are fragrant , diverse and highly refined, based on complex culinary techniques.The cooking influenced Middle Eastern ,Moroccan, Northern Indian and Turkish cuisines with its' highly sensuous recipes. Persian cooking is known for its' fragrant and flavorful tastes.

A Persian kitchen is full of aromas. It is perfumed with flowers and herbs such as roses fenugreek and mint along with spices such as saffron, sumac and cardamon .The Iranians were using pomegranates long before they became trendy and barberry a type of cranberry like berry.  Nowruz dishes contain these and are chock full of symbolism. There is sabzi polo mahi  an herbed rice with fish that represents life and rebirth , fresh green herbs that means renewal and rebirth while the rice symbolizes prosperity.Kuku sabzi a, type of frittata stuffed with herbs to represent fertility. Herbs are in abundance in Persian cooking which represent the earth Ms. Clark gives the recipe for Persian rice which is basmati rice redolent with such herbs as parsley, cilantro mint along with basil, fenugreek chives and tarragon.Saffron is also added along with ghee for flavor and color. Sweets are also a big part of Nowruz. Toot, a rose water flavored almond paste represents a life full of love and sweetness is also made.It's a homemade version of marzipan made with ground almonds, confectioners sugar and rose water that's molded into hearts or cute figures like bunnies.

Nowrus is the well that all spring holidays come from. It also is a showcase of Persian cooking at its best, full of flavor and fragrance. The dishes can be made even now as the season continues on.

It's A Wrap

Lunch can be a boring affair sometimes. It's either sandwiches or burgers with the occasional salad in the summer and soup in the winter. However there is something else to liven up the midday meal: the wrap. This is  versatile kind of sandwich that is easy to make and definitely more interesting to eat.

A wrap is nothing more than a burrito however Greeks, Mid Easterners,Armenians, Turks and Kurds have all variations of it. The bread is usually a tortilla, pita or lavash a kind of naan found around the Caspian area. They're usually made from wheat but can also be made from corn and flour.The wrap as we know it today was created in the early Nineties with three places claiming to have invented it. They were the southern California chain "I Love Juicy,New York's OVO Bistro and Stamford Connecicut's Bobby Valentine's sport's Gallery Cafe. The last clains that it ran out of bread and had t used the first thing handy -a tortilla. The US isn' the only country that's wrap happy. Australia has two chains Oportos and Burger Fuel that feed the wrap fire while Britain has happily embraced the sandwich as well. There is a caveat though. Plain wraps are usually fifty calories higher  than a slice of bread. Be careful with what you stuff them with  or they could have the same caloric weight as a burger.Companies like Toufayan do offer low calorie ones that start at one  hundred calories. Try these if you're watching your weight or are on a restricted diet.

Filling the wraps is the best part.You can add anything from leftovers to fresh  veggies to create an unique and tasty lunch . The first part is selecting  a wrap. Now they come in different flavors like pesto, garden vegetable and tomato along with plain and whole wheat. (again Toufayan, the leader in wraps produces all  of these). For a healthy one think chopped turkey or chicken with chopped tomatoes and shredded lettuce. This is an incredibly light lunch and you can even have  side of vinaigrette as a dipping sauce.Another good one that chock full of vitamins is an avocado wrap. Since  avocado is filling, meat is optional. Add layers of spinach and watercress for a truly green and tasty bite.Any sandwich can be turned into a wrap. Try a BLT or a club sandwich loaded with bacon and mayo.For a quick wrap on the go try ham and American cheese. Salads too can be stuffed into a wrap. Caesar salad is a popular wrap  filling in diners and it can be made with or without grilled chicken or shrimp. You can also try a chef salad stuffing  with its' variety of different meats  cheeses and veggies. Serve with your favorite dressing as a dipping sauce.

Wraps are a nice and different alternative to humdrums sandwiches and burgers. Stick to the classic fillings or create one that unique. Either way it's a great way to liven up a lunch!

Store Cooked - The Easy Way Out

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