Korean Masterclass In Cooking

 Home cooking in any nationality is usually the best, The recipes have been handed down, modified and improvised for generations. Some have influences from other cultures. Some rely on ingredients used for centuries . This is true of Korean cooking fast becoming a strong thread in the American culinary fabric.

Regular contributor and popular cookbook author, Eric Kim, wrote about his heritage in today's New York Times Food section. He remembers his mother's cooking in their Atlanta , Georgia kitchen and how it influences him to this day.He also feels like he has finally embraced Korean cooking now more than ever. a constant process of self discovery.it not only connects him to South Korea but to his own identity. Keep in mind that the cuisine is much more than barbecue, bulgoki and kimchi , all all three are a big part of it. Mr. Kim does give his recipe for Korean barbecue using samgyeopsal or three layer meat. This is pork belly's fat cap and the two leaners layers of meat below it. It's basically crisp slivers of pork wrapped in various lettuce leaves and dabbed with doangjang honey which is soy bean paste mixed with honey and slivers of garlic. It' s served with the tangy scallion salad, Pa Muchim. This last can also be served with rotisserie chicken and pan fried pork chops too, to alliviate the greasiness. For a homier meal, think Mr. Kim;s Doenjang Jiggae, a rich stew bursting with unami. Anchovies are cooked with red onions, zucchini and Korean radishes, plump, sweeter tasting ones than their American cousins. Shiitake mushrooms and dried kelp are also put in, for both a mellow and briny flavor.A thin boneless rib eye steak is added in the end to give the mix more heartiness.

Miyeok guk is both a soup with flavor and meaning.It's called the birthday soup because it;s not only eaten on a person's birthday but also to recall the sacrifices their mother made for them.Traditionally it's mussels cooked in a beef broth but Mr Kim subs in anchovies, garlic and mushrooms for it. Koreans and non Koreans alike love fried rice. His recipe has it on a sheet pan , with a covering of kim chi. You can use freshly boiled rice for this because baking them on a sheet pan ensures every grain will be crunchy. Eggs are cracked over them and it's a nice mix of silky baked yolk over the mix if crunchy and tart. The American presence over seventy years ago is still seen today , especially in the recipe in budae jjigae , translated into "army base stew". It may have hot dogs, Italian sausage ,kielbasa and that classic US Army staple Spam  in it but it is fired up by kim chi and gochu garu,Korean chili powder and gochujuan, fermented chili paste. Ramen is also added for more heft and its' topped with American cheese which melts nicely into the whole dish.

These recipes are from a master class in Korean cooking. They're traditional , passed down for decades. They are perfect in any kitchen with their strong blend of flavors and textures.

The Fun Of Fish Boils

One of the greatest joys of summer is the fish boil. If you're by a beach whether seaside or lakeside then there's bound to be one. It's a great way of enjoying the day's catch as well as the veggies of the season. These beach barbecues are also a fun way to spend  meal with friends and enjoy good company.

The New York Times Food section featured  in its' outdoor cooking issue. Regular contributor , Kim Severson, got the chance to try several variations as well as writing about them. Boils are nothing new and are as American as squash  and popcorn..The coastal indigenous tribes first created them cooking, seafood along with corn as a meal after fishing. Potatoes were added probably in the early 1800's. Various regions have customized, for example the Great Lakes fish boils have a decidedly Scandinavian influence while the Louisiana is pure Cajun. New Englanders enjoy the Maine Lobster boil. The fish varies from region to region depending on where you are. The Great Lakes boil up white fish along with onions and potatoes. Peppercorns, bay leaves and allspice, the last taken from Swedish immigrants flavor it. Lousiana's boils boast of  - what else - crawdaddies and then lobster along with different spices. A Texas boil calls for the addition of Old Bay spice as and lemons.  Those along the Chesapeake Bay use crabs, fresh from the bay  with a good dousing of O.J. spice a mix of dried garlic and other seasonings.

One of the most famous boils is Frogmore stew. This is a relatively new invention being created by a shrimper, Richard Gay in the early 1960s. He threw shrimp and leftovers into a pot of boiling water while he was on a National Guard exercise. He named it Frogmore after a community on St. Helena Island.By the seventies it was a staple in Low Country restaurants. It is easy to recreate  and Ms Severson uses an expert , Ben Moises' a retired Game Warden's recipe. You'll need about six ears of corn and a cup and a half of Old Bay seasoning. Mr Moise recommends two pound of kielbasa or any other sausage. (Italian is fine here) and about two and a half pounds of  shrimp in the shell. The sausage and corn are boiled first in a large pot (think lobster pot or the largest soup pot you have) in a mix of water and Old Bay,The meat and corn are cooked for eight minutes and then add the shrimp. It;'s then cooked two or three minutes more and the whole pot is dumped onto spread  newspapers and then seasoned with more Old Bay seasoning. Anybody can create their own boil using the seafood and different spices. Just make sure you have the corn  and potatoes too, and beer. Beer is sometimes added to the water, most of the times it's just to wash down  everything. Also serve plain brown bread and cole slaw.

Fish boils are a fun way to enjoy both the season and seafood.Gather up some friends  , make an outdoor fire and cook the simple mix of fish ,potatoes and corn  for some basic deliciousness. It's the perfect cook out.

Winter Warmer Spaetzle

Now that winter is officially here ,it's time to think of hearty meals. Spaetzles fill the bill nicely.These tender and delicate German noodles can be used in casseroles or with sauerkraut. Not only that, they are the perfect comfort food during these chilly , icy days.

This is what  New York Times Dining regular Melissa Clark wrote about in today's A Good Appetite column. She discovered their charm while perusing an old German cookbook. There she discovered a myriad of recipes,using traditional ingredients such as kielbasa(!) and cabbage. She decided on a casserole with them along with kielbasa , onion and Emmenthaler cheese. This sounds sort of like a Saxony version of baked mac with bacon. I don't know if it's to my traditional tastes however it's tempting enough to try. I am going to make it sans the sausage, although if I were to add meat, it would be the more traditional ham

Ms. Clark also tries making her own spaetzle. This is pretty easy wit being on the same par as making pasta dough, except the dough consistency is that of a thick pancake batter.You can buy a spaetzle board from any gourmet cooking store or online. You can also use a colander to press out the dough (unlike pasta which is basically ribbons, spaetzle vary in length and size). They are then boiled in salted water. After you can do what you like with them.  I prefer mine with string beans or plain with butter however some like them the traditional way, cooked with red cabbage or better  yet, sauerkraut.

Spaetzles are great chill chasers. These hearty little noodles are the perfect canvas for  anything , from a cheesy bake to traditional pickled cabbage. You can create a perfect  and winter meal with them.