Chicago Style< Peruvian Flavor

 Our new pope is a Chicogoan.It's a huge honors for,the USAalong with Illinois and CHicago Pope Leo XIV is probably missing that good Chi-town food despite being in a culinary paradise.Chicago food is influence dby Italian and other ethnic groups who settled in the Windy City.

There are already POpe Leo themed dishes.An iconic CHicago  restaurant chain ,Portillo's has already created a dish for the pontiff born Robert Prevost .Its' Italian beef sandwich already has been named "The Leo".This is shredded beef smothered  with three kinds of peppers and a rich beef gravy .It's sandwiched between half a loaf of Italian bread. Bennison Bakery in nearby Evanston has baked a butter cookie with the pope;s image on it. The Pope also grew up with such CHi-town classics as deep dish pizza,  a spin on pizza rustica.It's loaded with sausage pepperoni and generous helpings of tomato sauce and mozzarella. There is also Chicago thin crust pizza which has an ultra fine thin crust and is cut into squares instead of wedges.There;s also Chicago style hot dogs or "dragged through the garden" dogs. This is a Vienna beef hot dog that;s topped with sliced tomatoes, relish, chopped white onions and a green pickle. A dash of celery salt and a stripe of mustard is added for more flavor. Ketchup is never ever used on these weiners. That's sacrilege to any Chicogoan!

The Pope spent a great deal of time in the seaside town of Chiclayo in northwestern Peru.His favorite dish was goat with beans and rice.He was also fond of ceviche, raw seafood "cooked in lime juice.Tje acid in the juice changes' the meat's composition while preserving its' raw ,briny taste.It can be made at home with either raw or cooked fish.Red onion and cilantro are also added for more flavor.Pope Leo also likes second which means dry in Spamish but is also a rich, savory stew.It's usually made from beef or kid macerated in vinegar. This is not quite marinating but softening the meat ,Yellow potatoes are added to thicken it.The recipe varies throughout South America. Ecuadorians also add avocados and ripe plantains along with achiote, a red spice sort of like cinnamon.The Pope may have also enjoyed a variety of potatoes too.A Peruvian staple quinoa is now an everyday American dish that can be made into a delicious bowl .It;s usually cooked with veggies for a healthy lunch or dinner.

POpe Leo has had a very good culinary background. First there was Chicago, then Peru and now Rome. He couldn't;t have asked for a better diet.

The All Inclusive Backyard Party

The warm weather is the best time to get to know your neighbors. No one is cooped up. Everyone is out and about. Why not take it a step further and have an all inclusive backyard party. Friendships can be forged. recipes can be changed. Best of all lessons about inclusiveness can be learned.

Of course the most important part is the planning. Unlike a block party which requires a permit three months in advance, a backyard party can be put together even in a week.Put aside time on a Friday or Saturday for a meeting of where it will be held.It doesn't necessarily have to be in the biggest yard. You could set up tables  and folding chairs in the driveway and leave the backyard for contests and games.  Secondly, write down a list  of who's bringing what.The menu should be an all inclusive one, with neighbors and yourself cooking up family or ethnic dishes. Remember that neighborhoods are international these days and there are going to be a lot of delicious dishes from around the world. Encourage people to bring their family's best recipes. Also consider dietary restrictions and allergies for both adults and kids. It's up to the planning committee if alcohol will be served. Serve it if everyone is OK with it. Usually barbecues or outdoor meals usually call for just beer for the grown ups and soda and juice for the kids.The same goes for meat which certain religions forbid. You may want to go for an all vegan bash.

Apart from neighbors bringing in their family dishes there should be typical summer foods too. Have plenty of hot dogs and burgers for the kids and diehard barbecue lovers. Different sausages such as brats and Italian sausages can be cooked for something different. If you're making the last make sure you have sauteed peppers and onions too for a good hoagie sandwich. Your neighbors may bring over unusual  with non traditional meats like mutton or goat. Embrace the difference. You and your family will expand their culinary tastes as well as you picking up a new recipe.Also have some classic American sides like macaroni salad which is easy to make. If that's one dish to make too many consider picking up a tub of it from your local supermarket or deli.  Throw in potato salad and coleslaw too, if no one is making those. A fun dish that's universal is roasted corn. Have differently flavored butters, such as lemon and tarragon on hand for easy slathering. As for  desserts, you can't go wrong with watermelon wedges. They're refreshing and a favorite. You could buy a Sno Cone machine and make frozen treats for everyone. They're only $44 on Amazon and will probably used many more times. Homemade ice cream cake is another treat as are homemade ice cream cupcakes.

A neighborhood backyard party is a fun way to meet the neighbors and try new dishes. Barriers can be torn down and new friendships forged. It's also a great way of celebrate the summer.

The May Facets Of Nigerian Cooking

Nigerian cuisine is as multifaceted and diverse as the nation itself. There is street food, and celebration dinners.All reflect the country's different groups and history. It is  history full of flavor and taste.

Recipe writer and Nigerian born Yewande Komolafe wrote an interesting and extensive article - really a guide - in today's New York Times Food section. It has every aspect of Nigerian cooking and it's exciting to read it. Chef Komolafe has been here since she arrived at the age of sixteen, bewildered by such American staples as fried chicken sandwiches and the classic Slushie. She has created and cooked in such prestigious restaurants as Momofuko Milk Bar as well as testing recipes for The James Beard Foundation and Bon Appetit magazine. She had been questioning whose culture was being reflected in her cooking. She realized she hadn't included her heritage. That's changed. She shows us how truly dimensional Nigerian cooking is. The country is three times the size of Italy  and has just as many different cuisines. The dishes in the north is influenced by the availability of cattle and other livestock. Coastal regions are more into seafood than their inland counterparts who prefer smoked or dried fish. Red palm oil is a staple in the south. The dishes featured are from the country's southwest  where she's from. Some of the ingredients  such as selim pepper, calabash nutmeg and uziza seeds may be hard to find but you can find  most of them on Amazon.Make it now to combat the heat.

The recipes are just plain exciting. There are so many I'd like to try. What is surprising is that she doesn't include fufu, a staple like rice in many central African cuisines.It may be because she included the recipe for jollof rice which could be made as a side or as a main. The recipe includes a Nigerian basic obe ata which is a kind of spicy tomato  - pepper sauce spiked with ginger and a
habanero pepper. Keep in mind that this sauce can also be used in the braised goat leg recipe. Braising is quite common in the cuisine. The meat usually comes bone in and skin on. Goat is the most used in stews however Nigerian home chefs also use beef pork chicken or fish when available.If you can't find goat then use lamb,beef or pork cubes. As a side you could use Chef Komolafe's Umani Rich greens recipe. This is sort of like the Caribbean and Southern callaloo recipe. Again obe ata is the base while amaranth greens or mature spinach is cooked with dried crayfish and green peppers. She also includes street food - beef suya - which is generously seasoned thin strips of meat. What gives them their kick is yaji a dry rub mix of ground ginger , cayenne and roasted peanut powder. Tomato slices and raw onion is added to it in its' newspaper wrap. Another recipe is the pepper soup, rich with fish such as mackerel , red snapper and black bass. Exotic and familiar spices are added to it for kick and heat.

Nigerian cooking is as diverse as the country itself.Try any of Chef Komolafe's recipes and experience the rich variety of flavors and textures. It is a trip into a diversity of different veggies and meats blended with an array of exciting spices.

LA's Oaxacan Vibe

Los Angeles  has always had a Mexican vibe and connections to the mother country, Mexico.It is also the hub of Oaxacan American life, with restaurants featuring the delicious foods of this Mexican state.Here , everyone can have a taste of true Mexican cuisine.

Tejal Rao wrote about the Oaxacan dining scene in Wednesday's New York Times Food section.Ms Rao, an accomplished chef and cookbook author in her own right  is now the Los Angeles restaurant critic for the NYT. She was able to get into the kitchens, learning about Oaxacan's migration and establishment in LA. The Oaxacan's have always been drawn to southern California for decades, shaping the city and influencing its' history and businesses. They are the ones running the food industry, owning specialty  markets, restaurants and food trucks. There was a big influx in the 1990's , just before the country's devaluation of the peso threw the country  in turmoil.It was easy to set up restaurants because Oaxacan cuisine is what everyone wants - freshly made with all natural ingredients. .Also immigrants want the exact same dishes  that they grew up on. Unlike dishes from other Mexican states which have subbed in ingredients, Oaxacan  ones have items such as tortillas known as tlayudas, grasshoppers (!)  known as chaplunes and dark chocolate. Sausages called moronga that are made fresh, daily ,using herbs and every part of the pig are also part of the restaurants' daily fare.

Oaxacan restaurants throughout LA would not open without these. Diners can enjoy true  southern Mexican fare such as the airy and diaphanous tortilla drizzled with the golden dregs of homemade lard and then spread with layers of black beans, quesillo,cheese and shredded cabbage.Moronga is also served, a kind of homemade blood sausage where there's not only pork but also tomatoes, jalapenos along with fatback and pork skins. Flour and herbs such as oregano and mint are added for substance and flavor. It is scored and pressed against the grill until it turns crisp. .The restaurant , Gish Bac is known for another Mexican dish , barbacoa. One of the owners, Maria Ramos learned  to make it as a child from her parents. It is different from the Caribbean version, which came from the indigenous Taino tribes that grilled  meat on spits.. The Mexican version is usually beef, goat or sheep  steam cooked in an underground oven until its' juicy  and succulent. She and her husband, David Padilla,as immigrants in 1993 made it just for quincianeras and weddings. They became so successful  that they opened up a restaurant that featured the slow roasted ,goat meat , basted in its' own restorative juices.

Oaxacan food is one of the strongest influences in Angelino cuisine. It's is classic Mexican ingredients cooked into flavorful dishes with recipes.They make for some of the best meals in this ever changing city.

Homemade Yogurt Tasty Goodness

Nowadays we're dazzled by the variety of yogurt in our supermarkets.It' whipped, sprinkled  with candy ,topped with nuts.It's French style Greek style , old school style. It's just too much. A simpler and much better version is the homemade kind - one made in your kitchen,

Melissa Clark knows this and wrote about it in an extensive column in yesterday's New York Times Food section.It's the easiest foods to make yet it does require some thought and good choices. You being with the starter - namely the good bacteria that will ferment the milk,Ms Clark suggests thinking of it like the sourdough starter that results in a crusty, tangy  bread.The two bacteria that are used the most are Lactobacillus delbruecki subspecies bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus. The first turns laciose into lactic acid and  is what gives yogurt its' tangy or sour taste. The second breaks down lactose into a digestible fatty acid. Where can these be had? In any live plain yogurt. Remember to look for the words "live""living" or "alive" in the ingredients ass.It has to be without preservatives but with an enjoyable flavor.  This is what will flavor your finished product.Another option is heirloom yogurt starter usually found online and at some health food stores. For a nondairy yogurt,use a commercial yogurt probiotic powder or capsules . A vegan non dairy starter can be used as well.

What about the milk? There are several options, such as cow's milk.There are two types, one known as creamline or non homogenized milk and homogenized. Creamline will produce a yellow layer that will sit on top of the yogurt. Homogenized is smooth throughout and won't separate. Ms. Clark recommends choosing pasteurized milk for the best results.Don't use sterilized or ultrapasteurized (UHT).The pasteurized kind produces a better flavor and ferments more willingly. Another variable is the fat content. Fat adds creaminess and body. The less milk fat, the thinner the yogurt's  texture. For a really rich one add cream.If you're worried about calories,then just use the 2% kind. Keep in mind you can also use goat's, sheep and even buffalo milk.For the best non-dairy cashew milk works the best. Another one is soy which also produces a rich, creamy mouthfeel. As for making the yogurt itself, it just cooking the milk and cream until the liquid simmers - about 110 to 120 degrees F. Let it cool until ipleasantly warm ( Ms. Clark suggests just stick a pinkie in to test)Transfer half a cup of warm milk to a bowl and whisk in the yogurt starter. Stir this into the pot of remaining milk.Set it someplace warm, such as the top of your fridge;Let it sit for six to twelve hours or until it tastes tangy.

Nothing beats a cup of homemade yogurt. It's just plain and delicious, made in your kitchen. Best of all it's just a simple fermentation without all those commercial bells and whistles.

island Delights

The Caribbean has given us so many delicious foods and drinks. From jerk to rum, we've experienced some of the best the islands have to offer. They are a mix of indigenous ingredients and European influence. It makes for a tasty cuisine of savory, spicy and sweet.

The dishes from the islands are the first fusion recipes. African, Creole, Cajun, and Amerindian have played an important role. The European influence is felt strongly as well. Spain, England, and France were the first major impacts, along with Portuguese and Irish. Surpsingly, but not surprisingly, there is also a Chinese, Javanese, Indonesian, Arab and South Indian input.Most of the islands share the same ingredients such as rice, beans cassava,a  kind of yam, along with cilantro or coriander. Bell peppers figure heavily into it, along with chickpeas, tomatoes,sweet potatoes and coconut. Some ingredients such as  ackee and saltfish, a type of fruit and salted cod are only cooked and eaten in Jamaica. Many bigger islands such as Jamaica have influence over the smaller ones or are so close such as Trinidad and Tobago that they influence each other. Some of them such as Cuba, Puerto Rico and the Domenican Republic have variations of the same dishes, slightly varying the amount of spicings.

What are the standout dishes of the islands? Puerto Rico and Cuba have the most known and the most popular.The Puerto Ricans make arroz con gandules y lechon - pork cooked with  yellow rice and pigeon peas.There's also pork belly or chicharrones which is crispy and salty like pork rinds. There's the crunchy  tostones, fried plantains, flavored with garlic powder and salt. Cubans have the delicious rice and beans, arroz y frijoles , cooked together. There's also the wildly delicious ropa viejo or old clothes.. This is shredded beef simmered in a tomato based criollo or garlic sauce. Arroz con pollo is another flavorful and famed dish along with the well known Cuban sandwich. This last is a tasty marriage of ham and pork loin with Swiss cheese and dill pickles on a cianbatta or hero bread. Mayo and mustard  round it out.Jamaican food is also striking. Jerk is made with a variety of different meats, from chicken to goat!.It's similar to our beef jerky here in the States. The Rastafarians have contributed vegetarian salt free cuisine to the island. This is called Ital and has such dishes as curried tofu chunks and vegetable stew.

The Caribbean has given the world a variety of tasty dishes. They are spicy and  sweet, savory and crunchy. Try them for an unusual spin on eating.

A Religious Whey

Truly good goat cheese is usually a European product. Mostly the French have mastered it, creating a silken textured fromage that just melts on the tongue. However there is competition coming from America's heartland, A  simply made cheese is winning prizes and palates.It comes from a devout Mennonite couple who may live sparsely but produce luxurious wedges.

Regular contributor, Kim Severson wrote about Veronica and Steve Baetje in yesterday's New York Times Food section yesterday. Mrs Baetje is a bit unusual in these cynical and questioning times, she had made a pact with God.If He could make her business successful, she would talk about Him as much as she could, even putting Bible quotes on their labels..It paid off. Their chevre or goat cheese has beat out 2,600 competitors to earn a top ranking at the World Cheese Awards. However it could also be a gentle and strident way of handling the curds and whey too,.Goat's milk  is more delicate than cow's milk, and it's' filled with tiny fragile fat globules. slosh it around for too long and the protein breaks down, Get rough with it and the curds are ruined and won't hold the cheese's most crucial ingredient moisture..Mrs. Baetje knows this and handles it with the utmost care.Yes there is Divine Intervention, but there's also inborn talent  at work  here too.

The extra care has paid off.Their cheese is becoming more and more popular. Much of it gets sold at farmers markets and by chef's around the Saint Louis vicinity.It can also be had at local whole Foods along with some Manhattan cheese shops.If you aren't near any of those, the Baetjes do have a website that sells their many flavors. Mrs. Baetje sells about 750 (!) pounds a week. The cheeses does have appeal. She lovingly hand shapes them into hearts and flavored with herbs along with the surprise  one of pumpkin. There are also other variations such as Amoureux, a nutty aged cheese with a vein of ash. She tinkers constantly with the cheeses. There is also a Couer de la crème with cranberry and orange, perfect for a holiday brunch. Get their three pepper one for a party cheese board for something different. A great gift to any foodie is their marinated feta which is soaked with good Greek olive oil , herbs and decorated with a sun dried tomato.Cheese affectionados   would love receiving their Miette, a sweet creamy cheese perfect for those holiday loaves.

Veronica and Steve Baetje believe that God has given success in their cheese business. Yet, their talent is also responsible for making excellent fromage de chevres. They are heavenly cheeses made with an earth bound love and determination.

The Butcher Cometh

Years ago cooks went to specialty stores such as the green grocers, the butchers and even the ice man's to get their food stuffs . The advent of the supermarket changed all that. Butchers along with the rest of the individual food sellers disappeared, The days of not only getting a good chop of meat but friendly advice were gone. Until recently. Like anything retro, butchers are back in in a big way - with plenty of good meats and good suggestions.

This was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The piece, written by Dining veteran, Florence Fabricant, tells of the return of the classic butcher shop.This new bunch of meat cutters offer what a supermarket can not - variety and help. An old fashioned shop can sell such rare finds as trotters , lambs neck and kidneys along with fresh oxtails. Some butchers even offer the more exotic rabbit and goat meats for the more adventurous cook and diner. Even better than the variety is the advice a seasoned butcher can give. He (or she) can tell a customer what to do with the cuts, along with what are the cheaper pieces of meat for those on a budget. Another plus is more free range meat. Veal is not white like the supermarket kind, , but pink thanks to the calves being raised on a more organic diet.

Restaurants are also jumping on this trend. A famed Manhattan eatery, Resto has a butcher shop attached to it , appropriately named Cannibal. After all if ,you like what you had, then you can go next door to get the same cut of meat to make at home. This ideait does make sense and saves cooks time . After all you dont' have to go looking all over your grocery's meat department. Just return to the restaurant and ask for what you had on your last visit. The meat also will be fresher along with being better in taste , texture and quality.

Butchers are making a comeback and no wonder. They hark back to an era when a cut of meat was an individual as a person. It was what good cooking and dining was all about. Luckily for both meat lovers and cooks, it's returning


NOTE: I made a mistake in yesterday's entry. November 1st is All Saint's Day - not All Soul's which is today. My apologies.

Getting Your Goat

Now that spring is here a lot of cultures are turning to goat to grace their holiday tables. Goat meat is nothing new. it;s been a Caribbean staple for centuries as well as a Middle Eastern one. However some people are squeamish about eating it. It may take a while to get used to but it is known to be delicious , especially if served right.

For millenniums now goat meat has graced Indian, Pakistani and Arabic cooking. The meat is still grilled today and is also subbed in for lamb. Both meats are similar in taste and often the Indians refer t o it as"mutton" Caribbean cuisine has several goat meat recipes, particularly Jamaican. There it's turned into a spicy curry or jerk to be eaten with rice. Kid meat or young goat is big in Mexico where the recipe starts with milk fed young goats and then spiced. with chilis They are they put on a spit to roast also known as asado. The Mexicans also prefer a kid stew called guisado which is made with smaller bits of the meat soaked in various spices.

Any big city butcher will sell goat meat. You can buy mature goat known as chevron or kid as a whole carcass(not recommended for the squeamish,) quarters or cuts. Fresh meat should be removed from the wrapping paper that It comes in and rewrapped. You can leave it without wrapping if you're planning on cooking it that day. The cuts can be frozen up to three days. Cooked goat meat also has to be stored right away and in the coldest part of the fridge. Since it doesn't last as long as other meats such as beef or chicken, it has to be eaten within days of cooking.

Goat meat is an acquired taste. However if you're looking for a different alternative to lamb this holiday season, then try it. It is versatile and can be served anyway from barbecue to cutlets to stews. Enjoy it as an alternative to lamb or chicken for your Spring holiday meals..