Rethinking Julia Child's French Chef

 Julia Child opened up American kitchens to a way of cooking that was both simple and sophisticated. Now local PBSstations  is bringing back her French Chef  shows. Can it hold up sity to sixty-five - almost seventy years later? Yes.A new generation can easily learn from her.

Julia Child , surprisingly didn't set out as a cook or chef - or even a career in anything remotely culinary. She was born in 1012 in Petaluma California, named Julia Carolyn McWilliams.She came from an old New England family that moved to the Golden State early in the Twentieth Century .Julia went back to her Massachusetts roots to attend Smith College. She majored in History where she planned on becoming either a novelist or magazine writer.She graduated, going back to Petaluma after a magazine stint in New Yrok City. Her first foray into cooking was creating shark repellent for  sharks during her time in the OSS. During this time, during the Second World War she was stationed in Kandy Sri Lanka where when met her husband Paul Child, another OSS employee. He had lived in Paris and knew the world of haute cuisine. THey moved to Parus where she went to the famed Cordon Bleu  academy. Her first cookbookMastering The Art of French Cooking led to an appearance on a Boston news show. She created an omelet for them on air and this led to to The French Chef. The show was a triumph ,introducing reluctant home chefs to different cooking techniques and mastering such tasks like carving poultry and creating crusts.

Does her advice still hold up.?Yes !!!! This new generation is  interested .They were, after all, raised on the Food Channel where there was more flashy showmanship  than actual cooking. Novice chefs are eager to learn about boef Bourguignon with its' wine rich sauce and addition of tiny vegetables.Her episodes show the practical like how to use endives in salad to creating a three course dinner menu. There is also the fancy - also perfect for those first dinner parties  where home chefs can make homemade mayonnaise,lobster a l'Americaine and chocolate souffle. Watching her show was a refresher course in how to.  The one I watched was about quickest and crusts. She showed how to sift flour and create a good crust. She goes old school by adding dried beans in aluminum foil to have the crust bake evenly. These shows were made in the Sixties and early Seventies so there's no fancy gadgets to do all the work - which is better. Doing such there is a communion between chef and the ingredients. Being tactile allows the home baker to know when the dough is ready to proof or if the veggies and herbs  are finely chopped enough.

Is Julia Child relevant now? Absolutely yes. A new generation should be watching her to get accurate cooking lessons without the flash.

The Power of The Cooking Video

 People around th eworld have been transfixed by cooking videos for the last sixty some odd years. Now a new generation of home chefs are not only warching but creating their own series thanks to You Tube and especially TikTok. Are they as popular as their predescessors? Absolutely!

Regular contributor Priya Krisna and Tiktok contributor Umi Saim wrote this interesting guide in today's New Yorkm TImes wednesday Food section. There have always been some form of cooking show, first starting in the early 1950's/ These were usually relegated to local news shows that occassioanlly showed a ten or fifteen minute cooking or baking how to. Julia Child suhered inthe first of cooking shows with her "PBS "French Cehf " series. There was also JOyce Chen. Most cooking programs were relagated to  public broadcasting howeve that all dramtically changed in the Nineties. The Food Channel was born and with  ti a whole new era of celebruty chef. This was the era that birthed Emeril Lagasse along with Good Eats  and a host of other fascinating shows.A decade later You Tube was born in 2005.It was a platform for all sorts of chefs , from Paula Deene to home chefs.It's still popular with people drooling over the pastas and other home cooked recipes of The Nonnas.

Yet it was YOuTube first created in 2015 and then arriving a year later in 2016 to the States. The videos were extrememly cheap to make. All you need is lighting and a camera. The pandemic three years ago accelerated this as people stuck at home discovered the joys of home cooking and baking. It was also a boon to home chefs eager to share favorite and family recipes.Unlike other cooking demos fo decades and years past TikTok allows viewers to stitch and duet, adding their input to the original video. There are three different ways to cook on Tiktok if you;re thinking of brining your brand and style to the platform. There's the turbocharged MC like Hetal Vasavada. Their's is an in your face with food video.It's composed mostly of quick shots. Then there is the gentle storyteller Althea Brown. She seems to have the  most traditional video, brining stories to the screem much like JUlia Child or Graham Kerr.If you want wild then go to for the mad scientist approach. There's usually a twist to a traditional recipe that a surprise.

Will TikTOk replace the traditional cookign show? Not really. There will always be home chefs who want a good half hour show to enjoy. Like any platform. Tik Tok enhance the medium. but doesn;t overpower it.

You Tube - Your Culinary Sanctuary

 Everyone is basically house bound with all these worldwide quarantines. It's a crazy time that may get crazier. The best way to alleviate the anxiety and boredom is looking at how  to videos. It's not only a great way to pass time but also learn hacks and lessons.

For true old school comfort check out any of the Julia Child videos.Her show ran on PBS from 1963 to 1972. She was a ground  breaker with being the first woman with an extensive cooking show as well as introducing Americans to the art of fine French cooking. You can learn everything from her, from the basics as making a good Gallic omelet to creating a flavorful onion soup. There's something soothing about her teacher's voice and the way she meticulously explains techniques. Later episodes have her working with another great chef, Jacques Pepin. Theirs is a harmony that's amazing.Again it's like taking a master class in cooking. There's also that famed Dan Ackroyd Saturday Night Live  darkly funny imitation that will make you laugh during these trying times. Other chef videos to look at are again, are Jacques Pepin, Lidia Bastianich, and Gordon Ramsey. If you like the older classics, then definitely watch The Two Fat Ladies and The Galloping Gourmet starring Graham Kerr for the camp and the valuable hints.

Some of my favorites are the cake decorating and the cooking and baking hacks. There are some truly amazing decorating videos out there. Some  show decorating as simple as just pressing a spoon against buttercream and then spinning the cake stand for smooth concentric circles. Others show you how to create everything from a bouquet of fondant  flowers to a cake topped with a white chocolate Mardi Gras mask complete with chocolate feathers. Be warned. You can be mesmerized by these for hours. The food hack ones are also interesting. Definitely tune into 5 Minute Hacks. This seems to come from Britain. Healthy foodies will be go made for the how to make your own pickle chips while egg enthusiasts will experiment with hard boiling their eggs with a lemon slice. Doing such softens the egg shells and makes for much easier peeling. There's one on fried avocado slices that looks interesting to try from their 35 Crazy Food Hacks video.

If you're bored or anxious then turn to You Tube. You'll enjoy the soothing tones of master chefs and go wild for the eye opening hints. It's what we need during these uncertain , crazy days,

Super Greens,Super Recipes

Kale, spinach and anything leafy green has been both literally and figuratively shoved down our throats for the last decade or more. The problem is many have not been offered tasty recipes with them. It's just been the usually smoothie or juice . That's about to change.

Kale is good in juices and smoothies.It adds vitamins and nutrients to them. Yet wouldn't it be nice to mix it up with  good pasta instead of coconut water or apple juice? Surprisingly those leaves can be turned into a delicious pesto, perfect with any kind of short or long noodle.It 's simply taking two cups of kale and that pesto staple, basil,  ground together along with pine nuts, garlic and Parmesan cheese.It can be also made with all kale .Just increase the amount used to two and a half cups. This is from the Kristine's Kitchen blog. I would add a dash of pepperocino flakes for some bite too.Anther idea is cooking roasted tomatoes with chopped kale along with garlic and the hot pepper flakes. Shallots and garlic are also added for more flavor. It's supposed to be served with rigatoni but a long pasta like spaghetti or fettucine would work well with it. Kale is a great base for salads too.It's wonderful paired with any fruit such as strawberries or dried cranberries. Like any green, it can benefit from a joining with sliced tomatoes , along with olives for more flavor and a simple vinaigrette. You can also add some more super foods such as broccoli and sliced peppers for more flavor and crunch.

That other super green, spinach, is also delicious in hot and cold dishes. One of the best is when it's stuffed inside crepes. This elegant meal is mostly labor intensive on the crepe part. After all the batter has to be made the night before and then literally brushed on a hot oiled or buttered pan. The spinach itself is usually cooked in a roux with some extras such as mushrooms and bacon. This can also be the filling of Julia Child's famed spinach pie which is kind of a spin on Beef Wellington. One of the most delicious marriages is eggs and spinach. Nothing beats a true French spinach omelet. This involves rich , maybe not so good for you add ins such as shredded Swiss cheese butter and milk. Of course you can just add spinach to the eggs. Made another way with garlic and you have a tasty spinach frittata for lunch or dinner. One of the best  salads is with spinach,, hard boiled eggs and bacon, topped off with a creamy blue cheese dressing. I make mine healthier by using the soy version of the bacon and the blue cheese also soy. It's a tasty blend that works as a main meal or a side dish.

Think of those super greens as super ingredients. Kale and spinach work well in hot and cold dishes, adding the same dose of nutrition. They're far better in these than in juices and smoothies.

Reopened With A Salute To A Master Chef

The pantry is opened - and I'll add reluctantly. We've lost one of the best master chefs  to ever live - my mother - Elizabeth Helble Roberts and it's tough to write this  - and continue on with the blog. Yet this is what she would have wanted for me.I can hear her now. "Why are you stopping for me? Don't be silly. Continue on with it.Don't disappoint your readers."

So, I will ,Ma,

My mother's background was fashion design yet she came from a family of phenomenal home chefs who in their own right, should have been teaching at culinary schools. She had an excellent background , thanks to a Piedmontese Italian mother and Swabian German father. They taught her the subtleties of good Northern Italian and Southern German cuisine. Her beloved paternal grandmother taught her the intricacies of baking which she excelled at.She aced Home Ec , loving the cooking section as much as she loved the sewing one. When she married my Dad, she got a crash course in Midwestern American cuisine from my great-granny Roberts. She could now expand her repertoire with Southern fried chicken, biscuits and crisps. Ma explored her French heritage too, and her love of Paris. We had restaurant style crepes and Bouef Bourgignon when the neighbors ate baloney sandwiches . She plunged into the Chinese cooking craze and was the only one on the block to cook with a wok. Nothing was too difficult or too exotic for her, She even could cook with whatever was in the fridge. Ma  left behind a true library of cookbooks, from La Gastronome La Rousse to Julia Childs.

Cooking and baking with her was like being with Jacques Pepin or Julia Child. It was a master class , in family recipes and international cuisine. To be honest, I was always nervous to  be in the kitchen with her. What if I failed? What would she say? I stayed out of the kitchen for a long time, letting her take the helm. I love to cook and bake but imagine doing both under the watchful eye of an Escoffier. This blog definitely benefitted from her advice. I was always asking her questions. - "How much egg should I put into a recipe?" "Can we vary the stock - switch chicken for veggie?" "How much garlic should go into the sauce?" She was incredibly inspiring and active  - even up to three weeks ago, before she fell victim to the insidious kidney cancer that destroyed her.

I will miss my Mom, Ma- as a mother and as a best friend, but I will always mourn the loss of a great master chef.

Elizabeth Helble Roberts July 18th 1922 - November 12, 2017 . 95 years of amazing good food , advice and cooking.

I know  you and your Grandma Helble are making the best Springele in Heaven right now!

Where Julia Lived And Cooked

Imagine living where Julia Child lived,That is any chef's and foodie's dream come true and it did for New York Times Food contributor, Julia Moskin. She spent time at La Pitchoune, Child's home in the south of France. What a great holiday, first with fabulous inspiration and second with a breathtaking countryside.,bursting with some of the best foods in the world.

How did Ms. Moskin score such a fantastic vacation? It happened through airbnb. The current owners put the Provencale farmhouse on the popular site.It was well worth it, especially to those who love and worship the famed chef. Many original artifacts are still there. There is still the plastic bin labelled "ail echlotes"for garlic and shallots.There are her cooking knives, sharp carbon steeled ones still in the wooden block that her husband Paul carved.Outside the house , though, very few traces of her remain. For all her celebrity , Chef Child was not a big thing in France,  Her great nephew Alex Prud'homme  confirmed this, with saying that southern France is notoriously laid back, not caring who she was. .Some locals do remember her, such as one of the elder butchers in a local butchery, even doing an imitation of her along with the chef , Mimi Brothier at Les Arcades in  Biot, France. Les Arcades was her favorite eatery, starting out as a canteen for local artists.Ms. Moskin ate here too, in following the chef's trail, enjoying pan crisped sardines,roasted peppers and a bowl of soupe au pistou,Provencale vegetable soup.

Of course, being in Julia Child's kitchen means cooking in it too. Ms. Moskind did just that , along with picking basil and thyme from the garden and buying from hat's left of small family owned shops (the area has been inundated with the big box national markets) The dishes she made were a Provencale white wine beef daube and Provencale potato gratin.The first will make a wonderful fall dinner. It's boneless  stewing beef marinated in olive oil and Cognac. A melange of vegetables are cooked separately. The veggies used are onions carrots and mushrooms, Later , they and the meat are combined along with tomatoes, white wine, bouquet garni and whole peppercorns. The entire dish is cooked for three to four hours  until the meat is ultra tender. Orange zest is added at the end and then the daube can be poured over pasta or rice. The other is a gratin but made with a true Provencale ingredient, anchovies. Tomatoes and onions, again the pillars of southern French cooking, are also used, being cooked together in a kind of marmalade to spread on one layer of tomatoes. The next layer is spread with the fish, pounded with olive oil to form a loose paste. Grated Gruyere or Parmesan - Reggiano is sprinkled on the last layer to give it a nice, crispy finish.

Living in Julia Child's Provence house is a  chef's and foodie's dream come true. It was an inspiration to Ms. Moskin as she created the chef's famed dishes. It was the ideal vacation, definitely full of flavor  and memories.

More Thanksgiving From The Times

For those of you who missed out on last week's New York Times Food section, there is another one, filled with more advice and different, exciting recipes. Best of all this issue features' not only an homage to Julia Child but also her best Thanksgiving recipes..These last alone are keepers and perfect for establishing new traditions at the holiday table.

Times Food expert Julia Moskin wrote about the another food expert Julia along with the recipes Ms. Child gave us.She interviewed Sheryl Julian , the current food editor at the Boston Globe., about her two Thanksgivings at the Child home. Surprisingly the meal was devoid of all Gallic influence. In fact it was a very simple meal, inspired by Ms. Child''s New England heritage (her mother's line could be traced back to the first Thanksgiving celebrants.) One recipe is genius . It is a kind of "sandwich" involving shaping two boneless turkey breasts around stuffing.It's then wrapped in turkey skin and cheesecloth  and basted with butter. The result is a golden roast that's done in two hours and slices like a dream. She also served early American staples like oysters and pumpkins. Ms. Moskin also includes Ms. Child's recipe, her Aunt Helen's fluffy pumpkin pie. It's a decadent old fashioned kind with heavy cream and bourbon or rum added.There is also a spicy dried fruit sauce that could go with the pie or better yet, topping French style vanilla ice cream.

Another good article from the issue is from Melissa Clark and it involves the second stars of the Thanksgiving feast: the sides. These are not your typical ones. They're bright and zesty, a refreshing breeze after the heaviness of gravy and turkey. She suggests leaving those alone along with the mashed potatoes. There could be a revolt if you change them comes a caveat.One is roasted radishes with anchovies, a kind of bagna calda that would definitely compliment the turkey's sweetness. This could even be a hot appetizer before dinner too. Another is shaved butternut squash with dates,a take on salad with a buttermilk dressing. If guests are still craving green sides then think of  Ms Clark's other recipe, sautéed Brussels sprouts with apple and prosciutto. This last is sautéing sliced apples, preferably Golden Delicious,  with the sprouts. They're then covered with shaved prosciutto and for vegetarians and vegans, shaved Pecorino cheese. Desserts have also been changed up to, thanks to David Tanis.He combines another flavor of the season, chestnut with chocolate in a light , flourless cake..It is made with chestnut flour and chestnuts for an airy flavor,.He took the recipe from cookbook author, Alice Medrich and her chocolate soufflé cake  For those who still want cranberry  Mr. Tanis offers a cranberry curd tart a variation of the French lemon curd one. It still has the same tartness , thanks to the cranberries and a hazelnut crust as opposed to the usual sable or shortbread one.

It's always fun to change up tradition now and then. Home chefs can change their Thanksgiving with the addition of any of these recipes. They're a fun departure from the usual, thanks to the Times.

Julia's Floating Island

Is there nothing more elegant than an ile flottante or floating island dessert?it's a delicate combination of a sweet liquidy custard dotted with meringue puffs. When  it's Julia Child's recipe it's even more special  with a certain Gallic twist to it. It's not only classic but delicious too.
Madame Child's recipe was the subject of A Good Appetite's column in yesterday's New York Times. Melissa Clark gives an homage to her childhood favorite that her parents, huge Julia Child affectionadoess made. As a child it was one of her favorite desserts. An ile flottante is a syrupy kind of custard dotted with mergingue puffs, hence the name floating island.It is the perfect dessert to make not only to impress people (]it's up there with Cherries Jubilee)  but also to finish off a nice roast with the trimmings.You can make it during any time of year.it can end a summer soiree as easily as in a holiday meal.

Since it is a Julia Child recipe , it is a labor intensive one.Floating island requires meringues to be mad which are not always easy. It's a two day prep with a cooling process of one day. The custard for it can be too sweet so Ms. Clark  added apricots to give it the appropriate tartness.It does require one half cup of sugar to balance out the milk and four egg yolks used..You can make it without the fruit or add another kind such as blueberries or cherries. You can also leave it plain as well. However since the meringue is also super sweet , the dessert should have some bite.

Julia Child' s legacy continues to new generations of chefs and home cooks. Her desserts are as elegant now as they were during the Fifties  and Sixties. Iles flottante is evidence of that  of what she gave us   delicate French cooking made for American tastes.

PBS Vs The Food Channel

PBS was the original food channel and its' shows opened the eyes of the American public . Fast forward to the Nineties where a fledgling food channel started to air its'own food based programming. Now both are neck in neck as to giving the public viewing audience cooking lessons and tips to create the perfect meal. Who is better though? That's the question.

PBS was and still is the classier station for cooking shows. After all it was the one who gave us the great Julia Child and Graham Kerr, The Galloping Gourmet. It showed America that French cuisine is as easy to cook ans American and debunked a lot of myths. It continues to this day with the fabulous Jacques Pepin who still create amazing meals. America's Test Kitchen is another informative no nonsense program. Chris Kimball gives a dry and wry view as he tests out recipes and products. it is an excellent way of learning about the nuances of cooking. For a more low key and maternal cooking style there is Lidia Bastianich who also runs the famed Da Posto restaurant in New York.PBS also offers a kid's cooking show,Fizzy's Lunch Lab, where the little ones can create surprisingly sophisticated meals.

Thre Food Channel does offer chefs who give good advice. While the PBS ones are more reserved these are loud and in your face. (think of Charlie Rose vs Jay Leno or David Letterman).Ann Burell is interesting chef, and her advice cam be helpful. However she can be loud at times as some of th e other Food Channel faves such as Guy Fieri. He not only has his cooking half hour but also is the force behind Diners Drive Ins and Dives" a fun and informative half hour that shows off the best of America;' eateries. The channel also feature competitions which does appeal to certain crowds. Yes, they entertaining but do home chefs really learn from them?

What to watch? That;s a hard call. For information and education.I'd go to PBS. For just plain fun, then watch The Food Channel. In the end you will know a little bit more about how to cook and what to cook.

Bouillabaisse A Different Kind of Seafood Dish

August has two great harvests right now - seafood and vegetables. Combine them together to create a Southern French classic bouillabaisse. This rich , briny soup is a perfect dish to make for a late August supper or party. It has the appeal of both freshly caught fish and crustaceans along with just picked produce.Not only that , bouillabaisse can be tailored to everyone's tastes.

This classic dish originated in Provence and is comprised of actually two dishes. The first is the actual seafood itself and true Marseillaise one will have conger eel, sea robin, John Dory, bream along with monkfish and sea urchins. The fish would be washed in seawater and then added to a mix of vegetables and spices. The second part is the rouille which is an egg yolk beaten with olive oil,garlic and saffron and served with the fish and broth.It's smeared on waiting crusty hunk of French bread and then the bouillabaisse is poured over it.

For an American style bouillabaisse, use mussels, sea bass and shrimp. You can also throw in lobster if you wan t or oysters for some variation. Use your garden harvest of tomatoes and leeks along with potatoes for the vegetable part. Garlic and saffron are the biggest must haves for this because they represent the flavors of Southern France. You can also use bouquet garni for taste as well. Most recipes from Julia Child to the Food Channel all include the rouille which is again just a simple mix of egg yolk, olive oil and lemon juice. Some recipes call for chili peppers or parsley to give it more flavor. What you want to do with it is up to your tastes. Once made smear on slices of crusty French baguettes, then place the bread in the bowls. Pour the soup over it to cook the rouille and to have it mix with the seafood.

This is the time to enjoy August's twin harvests of seafood and veggies. Their flavors alone are amazing, together they're perfect together, complementing each other perfectly.Why not combine them in this French classic sure to be a crowd pleaser.

New Year's Quiche

Yesterday's Wednesday;'s Dining section in the Times had a recipe for quiche. This is a great dish to serve in the upcoming days. it;s not only a party dish but a super easy one to make. Plus you can vary it to suit guests tastes.

The recipe is from Melissa Clark who contributes a recipe almost every week to the Dining section. This weeks she tries Julia Child;s famed quiche Lorraine with quiche au fromage. This is a silky custard-y blend of egg, heavy cream and shredded sharp cheddar. The crust is a simple yet lard rich crust, perfect for holding the heavy contents. I have to recommend making your own crust for quiches. i think it's always better than the store bought ones and also less watery.

Although Ms. Clark sticks to the traditional quiche flavors. You can vary it by subbing in ham bit for the bacon. There is even a recipe calling for devilled ham.A seafood quiche is not unheard of. Most call for a cup of crab meat but you can also thrown in lobster bits and shrimp. Vegetable based quiches are also good. there;s nothing like a spinach or a broccoli one.For these you can use fresh or frozen, just make sure that the spinach is dried before adding to the quiche.

There;s nothing like ringing in the New Year with a good , warm quiche. It is a filling and festive party dish that everyone likes. Make the traditional or the variations for some great holiday eating!

Julia Child - A Culinary Star Reborn

Thanks to the summer's blockbuster hit, Julie & Julia foodies are rediscovering Julia Child all over again. We have a lot to thank her for. One, she got us Americans away form all that Fifties food like meat loaf and molded Jello and two, taught us how to have a more sophisticated palate. Thanks to her people could have boeuf bourguignon instead of beef stew and cassoulet instead of beans ad franks. She opened our taste buds to a new and wonderful world : French cooking.


Child is enjoying a revival and with it her most famous book, Mastering The Art of French Cooking. It is the best way to learn about the complexities of French cooking and Child also demystifies it as well. be warned however. The book was published in 1961 in a n era where butter and fat were used freely and people just didn't worry about cholesterol, heart attacks and clogged arteries. Some recipes call for an entire stick of butter while others are big on different meats and fats. This is course the best of French cooking and why the cuisine always has a melt in your mouth flavor. If you do have the book , make the recipes only on monthly basis . They're just too rich to be eaten on a weekly one.

There are also several other classic chefs out there you may want to research. TV also brought us the Galloping Gourmet, Graham Kerr from Scotland and England. He, like Julia Child, used large amounts of butter lard and cream in his cooking.If you want more recent vintage, there's the great master Jacques Pepin along with the Two Fat Ladies (both were believers in the butter fat, and cream approach to cooking) Of course they can't compare to Julia but some of their recipes are worth testing and trying out.

If you get the chance not only see Julie & Julia but pick up Mastering The Art of French Cooking. As a foodie you'll appreciate the wonderful dishes and flavors. As a cook, you'll appreciate the artistry that goes into creating a dish. You'll also appreciate the artistry and talent of one of our greatest chefs Julia Child.