Pizza Rustica This Weekend

 Tonight , being Holy Thursday is the start of the Easter weekend. It's a time to think of traditions and the recipes that come with it. One is the Southern Italian dish of pizza rustica. It is a dish that can be made for Easter but also for the days around it.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about this classic in her A Good Appetite Column in yesterday's New York Times Food review.It;'s sort of like a cross between a quiche and maybe a calzone. It symbolizes  the end of Lent and the return of eggs, meat and cheese to the diet after Lenten restrictions of them. It goes by a variety of different names from torta rustica or rustic cake to pizza di Pasqua and pizza gaina. It is much beloved in Southern Italy where there are many different variations.Nowadays all Italians  bake it and not just for Easter.Ms/ Clark's Roman friend Sophie Minchelli spent the Covid 19 locdown baking all sorts of them. She tried ones with puff pastry and tweaking the filling to what she had on hand. Her Spring  time version forgoes meat and has plenty of seasonal greens like chard. Ms. CLark combines greens and ham in her version, instead of using the traditional and stronger tasting salame and prosciutto.As for the crust she opts for a pasta frolla or sweet crust (!) fragranced with lemon zest. Giving the pie a sweet crust offsets the filling's savoriness.

She provides the recipe which is easy to replicate. Again her pasta frolla crust , taken from Nancy Harmon Jenkins Cucina Del Sole (William Morrow COokbooks ) uses two tablespoons of granulated sugar to provide the sweetness along with three to four tablespoons of a dry white wine (You can sub in white wine vinegar mixed with ice water for this)Th e rest is basically a typical pie crust blend of flour , water and butter. Adding one egg enriches it and gives it color. The filling is a mix of whole milk ricotta and a choice of Pecorino, Romano or Parmesan cheeses.Use half a cup of chopped ham.There are also five cups of s baby spinach or chard cooked for two minutes in olive oil and garlic. It's cooked until wilted but not soaked in the oil. Drain off any liquid . You don;t want that in the pie because it will create a watery texture.It's then making the custardy filling by pureeing the eggs and drained ricotta with the spinach , ham, cheese and spices.Add red pepper flakes for zing. Set aside while you roll out the dough. It's then assembling in a pie pan. Save some dough for creating the traditional lattice top crust.Use an egg wash Cook for fifty to sixty minutes in a preheated 375 degree Farenheit oven.

Pizza rustica is the perfect Easter pie to make for the holiday dinner. It is also perfect for the Easter Monday picnics and Spring parties. Try this Italian classic for a nice warm weather treat.

The Perfect Ham And Eggs.

 The main course to a Easter meal should be the perfect ham. it should be a bright to smoky pink on the inside side and have a deliciously crusty and flavorful glazed exterior. What should accompany it? Eggs of course  but with a Chinese twist.

Regular contributor , food writer and recipe developer Genevieve Ko wrote about these usually breakfast staples in today's New York Times Food section. She gives a recipe for honey ham, taken from her own experience with cooking city hams or as we know them just hams. These are injected with water which can dry out in the oven. The best way to cook and serve them  is to eat them without cooking and at room temperature.according to Brian Heffern, operations manager at the Honey Baked Map Company. This may freak out more than a few home chefs, but keep in mind the meat is already cured, so there's no worry. You could do what ms KO recommends. Cook it on the stove first for thirty to forty minutes and then transfer it to a 450 degree Farenheit oven for the last ten or fifteen minutes.The inspiration cam from her working with the great  Alsacian chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and the German chef Gabriel Kreuther. She helped with editing their respective cookbooks. Her ham has the German influence thanks to first a bath of Reisling wine mixed with juniper berries,peppercorns and honey. An onion is added which will serve as a rack for the ham to sit upon. When it's ready for the oven, it;s rubbed with a mix of brown sugar, Dijon mustard and more honey.

The second recipe comes from Ms. Ko's childhood. It's the tea eggs  that all her "aunties" brought to her childhood church every Easter Sunday.  This is a snack but  it's also a great way of having those hard boiled eggs. They're soaked in a brew of black, tea, soy sauce and ginger. There is also the addition of star anise and Szechuan peppercorns. Use either oolong or jasmine tea loose or in tea bags.Plain eggs are cracked in the boiling process and when peeled, reveal intricate marbled patterns. If you're using your dyed eggs, then peel off the colored shell.Fully peeled eggs will have a richer, more intense flavor  while being dyed a deep brown  Keep in mind that raw eggs should be room temperature before boiling. Cold shells will instantly crack once they hit the hot water and that can create a mess. Tap them lightly with the back of a spoon to create hairline fractures. The tea will seep in and give them that pretty marbled effect. Cook never before cooked ones for six minutes for a jammy yolks  seven minutes for just set ones and eight to ten minutes for hard crumbly ones. After they're cooked, drain the hot water, add cold water from the tap until they're completely cool. The already boiled ones can just be marinated in the heated sauce and then put into containers. These  go into the fridge where they can be stored for up to a week.

Ham and eggs are always a great combination. Yet imagine the ham as a crispy, tender Easter one and the eggs as Chinese tea eggs. It's a nice way of celebrating Easter.

Easter Light Eating

 As with other holidays Easter brings about rich meals and even richer desserts. Yet it doesn't have to be this way. You can easily create lighter fare that's just as tasty and packed with flavor.

Many families have either ham and lamb. While these are traditional, they can be a bit too much in flavor. They 're geared more to Christmas or New Year's Think a lighter taste for Spring. Cornish hen fits the bill especially if it's just roasted with lemon and herbs. As with other poultry like turkey and chicken  you can put butter or a plant sub in like Melt under the skin.It not only imparts a lovely flavor but also gives the meat some moisture too. One is perfect for a small aster dinner for two. What would go with this? Think a side of herbed wild  rice and that Spring favorite asparagus. Herbed rice is made with the chewier, wild version along with a chopped yellow onion and such herbs as  dried, rosemary, thyme and basil. If you want something lighter then think of roasted carrots simply rubbed with olive oil, salt and pepper. The asparagus can be made with butter and Parmesan  to emphasize the green's earthy flavor. If chicken isn't your thing, then think salmon. You can go the sheet pan way with a garlic butter sauce  along with roasting it with fingerling potatoes and asparagus.

Easter cakes are always pretty and cute but they are also overloaded with tons of buttercream icing. Family and friends may prefer a simple Bundt cake.  Think one made with Meyer lemons or Cara Cara oranges and a simple glaze. A slice of pound cake would also be a nice ending to the Easter meal. You could bake a chocolate one which is dense but think of a  chocolate chip or a marble one. One of the airiest desserts to make is meringue. These can be made vegan by using aquafaba or chickpea brine. Whipped up it creates the same foamy lightness as an egg white meringue. Coffee meringues are a nice touch or you can try fruity ones, perfect with tea. You will need dried berry powder or freeze dried fruit. These also impart a lovely pink color, perfect to match those Easter eggs. There are two great desserts made with this. One is the Pavlova, named in honor of the great ballerina Anna Pavlova, This is a layer of meringue, whipped cream and fresh fruit such as strawberries , blue berries and raspberries. The other dessert is an Eton Mess, a favorite of the Dukes of Cambridge and Sussex. This is like a combination of a Pavlova and a parfait where the meringue is broken into pieces and layered with whipped. cream and berries.

Think Spring when you're cooking and baking for Easter. The lighter flavors are like the season itself - delicate and fresh. It's a nice way to celebrate the day.

Lambing Season

 It's easter and you know what that means - thousands of home bakers will be baking a variety of lamb, egg and bunny shaped cakes again. Is it time to go through another round of intense holiday baking? You bet it is!

Three years I was following my Mom's tradition of baking lamb cakes for everyone. The pandemic hit and for two years Easter was a small affair with a lovely small cake from my local Acme. Now that life is back to normal, I'll be back at the Acme in search of cake mixes, Dream Whip for body, confectioner's sugar and flour.This mold will see active duty again this week and next for Orthodox Easter,It also means a thorough oven cleaning as well.

Of course there are questions and planning. For one friend, maybe a vanilla cake with a strawberry icing. For my house - the ever popular chocolate cake with a coffee frosting for a little brown lamb. Greek Orthodox friends always want the traditional  vanilla cake and vanilla frosting - there can be no other.I've been checking out my go to and best website for frosting recipes Two Sisters to see if there's a different type of coating to try. Then there's the question of full vegan for friends. Do I add almond milk and Just Egg to their cakes as well or can I use real eggs and milk for a fuller bodied cake? The decorations also count.Luckily food coloring has an indefinite shelf life so I can use the ones from the last lamb cake frenzy. As for the chocolate lamb, chocolate decorations work best, so it's buying a new tin of cocoa (and plan making and baking everything from mole to chocolate meringues this Spring). I know I'm not doing a tester cake like I did the last time. There was so much cake by Easter time. I will also need cupcake papers because there will be extra batter  and icing. The overage will yield two or three little cakes which are fun to decorate.

Yes, lambing season is here. That means my oven will be busy once more creating the cake everyone loves.It is a lot of work, but to seeing smiles of gratitude are worth all the baking and frosting.

A Quick Saturday Sandwich

 Let's face it  no one likes to really cook on a Saturday. That's where a quick but tasty sandwich comes in. Layer cheddar and bacon on toast and you have a tasty dream lunch or supper.  You don't even have to fry the bacon. Microwaving or air frying does the trick.

Of course I made the vegan version.I used Miyoko's Creamery new Roadhouse Cheddar. 

This has  nice tang to it and spreads on smoothly.As for bread I used Pepperidge Farm 's Italian bread

However you can also use a toasted baguette or thick slices of toasted sour bread. Warmed rolls would work well here too. It's then using Morningstar Farms soy bacon.

                                                   Cook until crisp for about two to three minutes.        

It's just toast, spread and pile. That's it. The flavor of the bacon and cheese combined is amazing.Cheddary, salty and tangy.  I may try it with a slice of tomato  next time, just for a different spin. Add a square of cooked Just Egg or real egg for a yummy brunch sandwich. If you want, add a handful of chips or some gherkins on the side to make it more substantial.

This is the perfect quick meal for a no cook Saturday.It's a tasty , bite fuill of cheesy, bacon-y goodness. Best of all it's so easy to make.

Easter Savings

 Many home chefs are dreading the holiday.It's not the cooking or creating the perfect meal.It's the price of the ingredients plus the main course that has them freaking out. There are ways to have a less expensive holiday.

One way to combat the high price is varying where you shop. You may find a bargain for your ham or lamb at one store while another may have better buys on veggies.Another idea is heading to more dollar friendly stores like Aldi and Lidl. Right now Aldi has spiral cut ham for only ninety-five cents a pound!! Their lamb leg roast is just $7.49 a pound.Lidl has a whole young chicken for $2.69 a pound.Both stores have excellent pricing on their veggies too. A cheaper alternative to meat is portabella mushrooms which can be prepared a number of ways. Air fried caps are delicious with a sprinkle of salt, pepper and oregano. You can also  grill them if you're planning an outdoor holiday meal. Pasta is another low cost alternative. Think of having a pasta primavera , chock full of veggies,You could also make a carbonera with a bacon laced sauce. This you can have a little splurge with since the eggs and bacon are costly. A veggie lasagna is a great way to go for a crowd. This and a salad can make for a filling holiday meal. As for dessert a home baked cake works well or just cupcakes topped with homemade buttercream icing.

Another idea is having a pot luck dinner. You can provide the main course which means you can spend a little more on getting a bigger cut of meat . Ham would be the best bet. It can feed a lot. As for dishes , you can have people make their signature dishes.  Suppose two guest have the same signature dish?Make a list of who is bringing what otherwise you'll wind up with duplicates. If there are double recipes then persuade the second person to make their second favorite dish.Keep in mind there shouldn't be any dishes left out. Check to see if everything is going to be on the menu, from salads to desserts. Also let the vegetarians and vegan create their dishes while the non vegans bring theirs. That way  everyone is happy with the meal.Also e mail a list of everyone's allergies too to prevent any problems. Suppose it's just a dinner of only three or four people. Condense. A small ham or just a chicken will do  along with  a side of asparagus. Serve the asparagus with butter and cheese for a tasty dish. Also a simple salad is a nice touch. As for dessert you can get a simple small cake at Acme or Stop and Shop. A homemade pound cake also works too.

Don't worry about money this holiday. You can create a low cost yet delicious meal  for very little. It's a memorable feast for a lot less.

The Savory And Sweet Side Of Passover

 Like any holiday Passover has a savory and sweet side. The recipes can be classic but there's always room for new ones. They can be for the main course or for dessert afterwards.

Both Melissa Clark and Joan Nathan had interesting dishes for celebrating in yesterday's New York Times Food section. The holiday starts April 15th,next Friday and ends Saturday April 23rd. These dishes can be made any of the days and even taken to Passover pot luck dinner. Ms. Clark gives the recipe of a pomegranate baked rice and onion casserole in her Good Appetite column. This is huge in the Ashkenazi sector because they were forbidden to eat rice , along with chickpeas, corn, beans and spices.This is the first change in the Passover diet in over 800 hundred years The Sephardic Jewry has always allowed it , with their holiday recipes featuring rice stuffed vegetables. This  casserole comes from Shimi Aaron, an Israeli chef and owner of  EliaMIa, He is more known for his gold dusted babka but this recipe has the same amount of oomph. It's candied onions that have been roasted in a bath of pomegranate juice, laced with honey ,olive oil and dill.It's served on a bed of pine nut speckled rice. The onions are a mix of yeloow, purple and white ones fanned out over the layer of rice. Greek yogurt can be served with it.

Joan Nathan has a sweet Pass over recipe based on the famed Easy Toffee Bars that were reimagined into a Passover treat by Marcy Goldman. The original recipe called for Saltines but as Ms. Goldman found out matzoh also works just as well. It also called for using chocolate .Ms. Nathan subs in kosher for Passover peanut butter for a different spin. These too have been okayed by the Ashkenazi however have been used by the Sephardic for decades.It's first cooking butter and molasses into a syrup and then pouring over a layer of matzohs. This is then baked in a325 degree Farenheit oven for twenty minutes. Warmed  for twenty seconds in the microwave peanut butter is then poured over this,A layer of chopped peanuts and a good sprinkling of flaky sea salt is added. Brittle is best chilled so pop in the fridge right away.It should be there for about thirty minutes or until the peanut butter firms up. This makes for a nice gift if you're invited to someone's house.

Passover has room for both savory and sweet. Make these recipes for the celebration. They are tasty and a new spin on classic dishes that are sure to be favorites.