Trouble In A Culinary Paradise

 Imagine working in the most perfect place one can think up. It has stunning views and comes not just with tantalizing job offers but delicious food. Now imagine it all being a big lie. That's what happened to the workers at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island off the Washington State coastline. The ultimate's chef's dream turned into a worker's nightmare.

Regular contributor Julia Moskin, contributed this eye opening report in today's New York Times Food section. She exposed practices better associated with trendy big city restaurants and crimes  that are not at all uncommon in New York, Chicago, Boston or Los Angeles.It started with the famed chef , Blaine Wetzel falling in love with this tranquil island in the San Juan Archipelago. He was only twenty-four and fresh from a two year stint at the famed Copenhagen eatery Noma. Any restaurant would have wanted this rising superstar in the culinary world. Instead he answered an ad on Craigslist posted by an island chicken farmer who owned the century old inn. Its' isolation appealed to him .It had less than one thousand people living on it. There were unspoiled forests along with local fisheries and farms - all perfect for fresh ingredients. It quickly became a global destination with visitors paying a whopping $500 for a night. The dishes were either foraged or fished not far from it. Yet it was nothing more than a fairy tale.

Ms. Moskin interviewed thirty-five former employees for the article and their stories are horror ones.For one those fresh ingredients weren't exactly fresh nor were they local. They were ferried in from the mainland, namely from distributors and other farms. Pacific octopus came from Spain and Portugal. Chicken was bought from Costco. Venison came from a farm in Idaho. Even more disturbing were the allegations against Chef Wetzel for sexual harassment. Underage teenage girls were given potent alcoholic drinks and drugs. There was inappropriate touching by older male workers while Chef Wetzel himself drove home a drunk underage worker, Sarah Letchworth. He wanted to drive her to his place to do shots. If that wasn't bad enough there were biases against female workers. Jen Curtis was a seasoned chef di cuisine when she joined the restaurant's staff. Chef Wetzel promised her a sous chef position as soon as it became available. She was shunted aside for male sous chefs. Then there was also the racism, with slurs being hurled at Asian American chefs.Interns were also abused, as they were forced to work fourteen hour days. Thankfully the inn's former workers filed a class action lawsuit against the chef who was accused of wage theft and provide rest breaks along with misappropriation of tips. 

The Willow Inn can be redeemed by a more compatible, caring chef. it is a paradise with fresh ingredients waiting to be turned into delicious dishes. It can overcome this bad period and enter a more understanding, honest one.

A Vegan Greek Easter

 Orthodox Easter is this Sunday , May 2nd and with it comes a wide variety of different dishes. The highlight is lamb, whether a whole roasted one or a leg. Yet what about Greek Orthodox vegans or vegetarians? Can they have a satisfying , holiday meal? The answer is yes.

Baby lamb on a spit is has been one of the traditions in the centuries old meal. Yet this is abhorrent to vegans , vegetarians and any animal lover.A better main dish is spinach pie or spanokopita baked in a phyllo crust. This is sure to be a crowd pleaser, especially with a flavorful crust and filling. It uses one of the staples of Greek cooking - spinach.Mint, parsley and dill enhance the leaves fresh Spring flavor. Leeks onions and nutritional yeast are also added. This pie can be baked in an oblong pan pan and cut into the traditional squares. Another idea is baked tofu marinated in lemon and olive oil,along with a good sprinkle of Greek seasoning. You can buy this last or make it yourself. It's an easy mix of oregano, garlic and dill.parsley marjoram and thyme is also blended in along with cinnamon and nutmeg. This mix works well added to another Hellenic dish gone meatless - moussaka. This is lasagna using with sliced eggplant instead of pasta., Lentils and tomatoes are another tasty and vitamin rich layer, highlighted with onion and garlic. There is a bechamel sauce added , but you can make a non dairy one using soaked and unsalted cashews.

Since it is a holiday dinner, also offer one or two sides. You could just make a simple Greek salad using vegan feta. This can be store bought like Violife that you can find at whole Foods or online at Vegan Essentials. The non-dairy kind can be homemade.It's taking a block of firm tofu and blended with a mix of apple cider vinegar, nutritional yeast and miso paste. Lemon  juice, coconut oil and onion powder are also mixed in to give it that unique briny, salty taste. Rice filled dolmades or stuffed grape leaves will pair well with the spanokopita or moussaka These are grape leaves filled with rice , lemon juice , Spring onions and garlic. It's a quick steam in a pot of hot water mixed with olive oil. The last is added to prevent the rolls from breaking or the leaves from tearing. Beet salad is another great side. Dress boiled and sliced beets with just a lemon and olive oil vinaigrette. Spanokorizo is the perfect side to Greek marinated tofu. This is a simple mixture of rice and spinach with tomatoes or tomato paste. Mint and chopped dill are added for more flavor.

It is possible to have a vegan or vegetarian Greek Orthodox Easter. Make the delicious spanokopita or moussaka as the main dish. Try the Greek marinated tofu if you want more protein. Serve with tasty Hellenic inspired sides for the ultimate holiday feast.

Great Combos Part Two The Sweet Side

 Some ingredients are made for each other. Dessert ones are no different. They make for delicious treats of all shapes and forms On their own they're good. Together, they're phenomenal.

We have French chocolatier Henri Roux who combined salt and caramel together in the late Seventies. This Breton candy maker wanted a treat that would stand out among the competition while making use of the local ingredients. Voila! He used a salted butter in his caramel recipe and it instantly became a hit and in 1980 was named Best Sweet In France. Now it's all over the place. A popular fun dessert to make is salted caramel cupcakes. This is making an almost butterscotch batter with the addition of a quarter teaspoon of sea salt. Another idea is salted caramel frosting, perfect for chocolate cakes and cupcakes.  The Two Sisters website - known for their variety of yummy frostings has a recipe for it , creating a homemade stove cooked caramel from butter, milk, brown sugar. It's added to confectioners sugar along with the addition of sea salt. For any salted caramel recipe use a good flaky sea salt like the British Malden or Celtic's Flower of the Ocean.Another good marriage is chocolate and any berry. You can't go wrong with a chocolate cake filled with strawberries and frosted with a strawberry frosting. Another treat is combining chocolate syrup with powdered raspberry for a delicious topping for ice cream sundaes and parfaits.It also makes for a tasty sauce for crepes. 

It's rhubarb season and that means the stalks are out in full force now.It's also strawberry season too. These two balance out each other's complexities while the sweetness of the berries counteracts the stalk's sourness. Another reason for their combo is that they both come into season at the same time.  The combo can be made into all sorts of recipes. For a lovely Spring dessert think a strawberry - rhubarb pie. This is perfect for barbecues , especially with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. You can also put the combo in a rustic galette to bring to a picnic or in a buttery tart for an elegant end to a candlelight dinner. Of course both are perfect in crisps and cobblers. These are easy to make and they easy baked toppings bring out the flavor and juices of both. Strawberries and rhubarb can also be made into a compote. This is incredibly easy to make. Just add half a cup of brown sugar and a pinch of salt to the two. It's then letting the juices flow out and cooking the cut strawberries and rhubarb in them. This ruby red compote is perfect to add to Greek yogurt for a healthy dessert or spooned over pancakes or waffles.

There are some great combos for dessert out there. Try topping a cake with a salted caramel frosting. Top off a parfait with a chocolate and berry sauce. Finish dinner with a strawberry rhubarb crisp or cobbler.These pairings make for a sweet duo.

Great Combos Part 1

 Some ingredients just are great together. They add to the recipe and their combined flavors knock the dish out of the park. what ingredients work together.?There are several great pairings.

Mushrooms and spinach are the perfect pair when wedded together. There's something about combining the two that just works well. It could be the mushrooms' earthy flavor that lets the bright springy  flavor of the spinach shine through. You could easily turn the two into a tasty salad. Just remember to cook the mushrooms first for the ultimate flavor.  You can eat them raw but they're tastier air fried. Add some bacon and a few sliced hard boiled eggs for a filling yet light lunch or dinner. One of my favorite pasta and polenta sauces is a sauteed mix of the leaves with sliced baby bellas. They're first sauteed in a mix of olive oil and I Can't Believe It;s Not Butter.. Sliced garlic is added along with a cup of vegan chicken broth. This is really the best marriage of the two. It's a great flavorful sauce and a nice departure from the traditional tomato ones.Another delicious mushroom spinach combo is Julia Child's famed tart. This has a beef Wellington crust encasing a blend of spinach , mushrooms and  bacon. It's a bit labor intensive but worth it

Potatoes and leeks are another good combo that produces an earthy but flavorsome taste. They work best in a creamy soup.Garlic and butter along with chicken or vegetable broth . These enhance the other two so much. Sub in heavy cream for the butter and then put the pot in an ice bath after cooking and you have the elegant potage vichyssoise. This is the perfect first course for an elegant summer dinner with friends. For a heartier fare think mashed potatoes with cooked leeks. It's a great side for roast chicken or turkey. The leftovers can be turned into puffs that can be air fried for a  side or snack. Potatoes and onions also work well together. A truly yummy side is the two roasted together. Add rosemary and garlic to bring out their flavors. This dish  is  perfect  with any roast ,whether London Broil or chicken. You can easily add onions , whether white or yellow to it to zing it up a bit. A tasty way to repurpose  any kind of potato is slice it and frying in in oil with sliced onions. It's an indulgent snack but oh so tasty.

Great combos always enhance any dish. They make for yummy, sides or snack along with main dishes. Try them  for a delicious marriage of flavors.

Spring Food Musts

 Spring is the time of longer and warmer days. Gone are heavy winter days and heavy winter food. It's time to celebrate with classics like lamb, asparagus and rhubarb , perfect for dinners and desserts. Think light. Think delicious.

Lamb is usually served all year round but it's most popular in the Spring thanks to Easter and Greek Easter. You could easily make a lamb stew with Spring vegetables. Use a boneless lamb shoulder and cook with, tomatoes carrots and petite pois or pearl onions. Red wine could be added along with the beef broth. The good thing about stew is that it can be made in an Insta Pot or crock pot  which leaves you free for a few hours.Another idea is cooking the meat in  herbs. Garlic and lemon are added for more flavor with such herbs as tarragon, dill and cilantro. Cumin and coriander seeds are also used. Greek Orthodox Easter is next week and there will be lamb served at almost all Greek homes. Try their version which is roasting a leg of lamb. Its first studded with garlic cloves and then generously sprinkled with a mix of  sea salt, pepper and paprika. Olive oil and lemon juice are then drizzled on it and then it's first braised and roasted.if the cut is too much then think about lamb chops. They can be marinated the same as the shoulder and sprinkled with oregano. You could easily serve these with crunchy and lemony Greek style roasted potatoes, 

Of course the best side is asparagus. This is a Spring must have and can be made a variety of ways. The best is with  the classic Hollandaise sauce. Home chefs always feel that this is hard sauce to create but it's really not. It's just combining egg yolks, lemon juice and a dab of Dijon mustard. Cayenne can be added for some heat but it's mot necessary. Melted butter is them streamed into the sauce and it's blended with an immersion blender. (you can use a regular one for it too).Another is Piedmontese style with the spears drenched in melted butter  and topped with sliced hard boiled eggs and Parmesan cheese. You can also grill them as well. Grilled asparagus is perfect with chicken or steak. Rhubarb is another culinary star of Spring. It's usually paired with strawberries but it's great on its' own. Stewing it into a compote is easy and it's a nice topping for vanilla ice cream.It;s slowly cooking chopped stalks with sugar and water. You can add a dash of cinnamon for more flavor. This veggie, similar to celery also makes for a good crisp or cobbler. These are easy desserts with mixing oatmeal, flour sugar and topping to form a tasty crust on top of the rhubarb. Strawberries can be added too for a variation. Serve any crisp or cobbler with freshly whipped cream for a down home but still fancy dessert.

Lamb, asparagus and rhubarb are the stars of the Spring table. They make the season even brighter and sunnier with their distinct flavors. Plan a dinner, make a dessert with these gems for a warm weather treat.

New York Is Back

 One of the cities that took a tremendous hit during the lock down is New York City. Manhattan and its' boroughs  have been struggling.One of the biggest hit was the restaurant industry. Good news!!! Eating out is coming back and with it a slew of must visit places. It's time to get dressed up and enjoy a meal out!!

The New York Times Food critic Pete Wells wrote about this renaissance of sorts in yesterday's New York Times Food section. This is not only great for the inhabitants of the five boroughs but also visitors from out of state and even out of country. Mr. Wells gives us seventeen eateries that have to be tried. They're not solely in Manhattan but scattered around the boroughs so they can be an easy drive from Long Island and New Jersey.Of course the city places have a certain air of excitement to them. Diners can try Blue WIllow, a new Hunanese restaurant in Midtown. Their  whole steamed sea bass is legendary while their longevity chicken soup with ginseng tastes like homemade. Tex-Mex lovers will go mad for Greenwich Village's Yellow Rose, a taqueria that offers chicken stewed so much in salsa verde that it's green and beef cheek barbacoa.A true fusion restaurant is The Migrant Kitchen located on William Street in the Financial District. The menu has carnitas going into a sharwarma sandwich and falafel being turned into a waffle. The hip St. Mark's Place has Mokyo, chef Kyungmin Hyun's second restaurant that features Korean cuisine but also has other Asian as well as Maine or Louisiana dishes. Thai Diner in Nolita offers diner classics like burger and fries but also fried rice with lump crab meat.

The boroughs don't disappoint either.For those who want a French seaside vibe head to Rockaway Beach's Bar Marseille.There is bouillabaisse and pastis scented mussels and olive tapenade. The Bronx gives us Empanology At Bronx Brewery where flaky palm sized empanadas are stuffed with everything from pizza to Bananas Foster. Then there is All Things Good in Brooklyn which features masa or ground corn meal recipes. They serve half moon quesadillas griddled or fried, and triangles of masa that look like mini volcanoes and filled with refried beans, salsa verde and melted Chihuahua cheese. Trendy Williamsburg has the even trendier Kokomo, a fun waterfront eatery that serves wings with a sweet gochujan glaze. There's also chicken and waffles with both whipped coconut cream and a Scotch bonnet hot sauce.  Another win for Brooklyn is Rangoon which serves mohinga,a fragrant fish soup with noodles. Another Thai restaurant is gracing Brooklyn too, It's Tong in the Bushwick section and it features kub klaem or whiskey snacks such as a spicy steak tartare and goong pai, tiny shrimp pancakes along with bite sizes sausages

New York is going to be hopping again with good eateries. Head to the city. See what's in your neighborhood for some tasty bites again.

Vegan Cheese Please

 As any vegan or even vegetarian home chef will tell you cooking without cheese can be daunting. It figures in almost every dish, from French onion soup to pizza. Then there's the charcuterie platter which demands a variety of cold cuts and cheeses. Luckily there are more and more vegan cheeses out there to fill this gap. Better still, they actually taste just like their dairy counterparts.

Regular contributor and California restaurant critic for the New York Times wrote about this in the Critic's Notebook section of today's New York Times Food section. Vegan cheese has undergone a vast transformation in the past decade. Cheese is always the hardest food to give up. There's something about the tanginess of cheddar or the creamy goodness of Brie.At one time those non dairy kinds could not hold a candle to them. However that's all changed. The newer generations of packaged cheese is now more convincing, thanks to being produced in roughly the same way as regular cheese is. They're made from cultured plant based milks that develop texture and flavor. Companies that are leading the way are the smaller, more artisan Blue Heron Creamery of Vancouver, the Herbivorous Butcher in Minneapolis and Vtopian Artisan Cheeses in Portland Oregon. There is also Philadelphia's Conscious Cultures Creamery and the famed nationally known Miyokos.

Conscious Cultures Creamery owner, Stephen Babaki has made Barn Cat , a Camenbert , inoculating the surface with various strains of Penicillium candidum which is typically used to ripen Camembert and Brie. it's then aged for two to three months. Some work , some cheeses take more time to perfect. Miyoko Schinner, who first published  the how to Artisan Vegan Cheese, created her early ones with homemade Rejuvelc - sprouted fermented grains filled with probiotics and lactic acids. She researched her book by taking cheese making classes and studied the ways traditional cheeses were made. She experimented in her San Anselmo California  kitchen , giving her kids samples. She then opened up an alternative dairy business, Miyoko's Creamery that's sold all around the country. she is not without competition but she is a pioneer in the industry. A decade ago she couldn't even get what she called "culture houses" companies that sold cultures to take her seriously. Now there are vegan cheese makers everywhere.Aaron Bullock and Ian Martin started Misha Foods, in part to help African Americans eat healthier. They made alternative cream cheese from cashew milk, one of the most popular milks used by vegan cheesemakers. Denise Vallego makes vegan Mexican cheeses, in part from being inspired by Ms. Schinner. Then there is Kristen Maitland and Frank Zwar of Rebel Cheeses in Austen Texas  who recreate all sorts of cheeses and came up with a Cheddar Brie hybrid.

Now vegans can rejoice because there are actual cheeses for them. They can indulge with Brie smeared on crackers or a grilled cheese. It's time to celebrate again with a big wedge of cheesy goodness.