Wednesday, December 11, 2019

The Best of The Year

Was 2019 a good year food wise? It was the year Beyond Beef hit our tables and palates We found ourselves trying different foods and rediscovering the classics. There were some good restaurants and wand much loved recipes that made 2019 special. Maybe it was a very good year.

That was the idea of today's New York Times Food section. Many of the contributors and even readers weighed in about this last year of the teens. Pete Wells, the paper's restaurant critic. If you're in New York for the holiday season, please try some of his recommendations. Odo is one of his three star favorites. This is a kind of fusion restaurant that features soba waffles and Wagyu beef burgers (there's also veggie and chicken ones too).There's also a sushi bar at this trendy Flatiron District eatery. Another three star fave is Rezdora , creation of famed chef, Stefano Secci, who spent time working for another famed chef, cerebral experimentalist  Massimo Bottura. Mr Wells raves about the interesting uovo ravioli which spurts egg yolk when you cut into them and the handmade maccheroni al pettine, that's raked with a comb , made that way to have the sauce adhere to the pasta. It too is in the Flatiron  District. Another fusion restaurant, Llama San is the third three star eatery which nods constantly to Peru and Japan. nThe star dish is the nigiri, a hand rolled ball of rice with a duck breast draped over it. Another three star is Benno, created by Jonathan Benno, which features such lush dishes as risotto with truffles along with caviar and lobster dishes.

Home chefs also had their favorite recipes. The top number one dish was the vinegar chicken with crushed olive dressing. Alison Roman came up with this turmeric laced chicken baked on a sheet pan. Crushed Castelvetrano olives make up the sauce. Samin Nosrat gives us the second most popular ,a thrice (!!) washed salad that has five different kinds of lettuce and a honey, garlic, and Dijon dressing. It was inspired by  Via Carota, Insalata Verde. Pork lovers nominated the pork chops in lemon caper sauce which is also spiced with thyme and parsley. A Hawaiian dish, Huli Huli made it to number four. It originated in 1954 when a Honolulu businessman, Ernesto Morgado served a group of farmers chicken that had been marinated in teriyaki sauce. The sauce has been updated to include ketchup, soy sauce, and light or dark brown sugar. Garlic and ginger give it spice and bite as it's grilled for half an hour on a hot barbecue. It's worth dragging out the grill for this tasty dish.If you prefer a more indoor dish, then try number five, creamy chickpea pasta with spinach and rosemary. Alexa Webel created this blend of chickpeas, heavy cream, garlic, shallots and spinach. The chickpeas are browned first , and then half are removed   to break down and thicken the sauce. It can top either spaghetti or bucatini.

Was 2019 a good year in food. Yes. There are some good eateries and recipes out there that will definitely please the palate. Visit these three star restaurants  Cook these top five dishes. Enjoy what made this year a good food year.


Tuesday, December 10, 2019

The Beyond Meat Beef

There's a big controversy over a little - well - mid-sized burger. It seems the beef lobby is having problems with Beyond Meat and Impossible Burger. Accusations are running wild, with questions about the integrity of this latest food trend. Are they valid?


It was the topic of an article in today's New York Times Science section. Anahad O'Connor , who writes about consumer health and national news  for the Times delved into this burgeoning fight.
 There is even a heavy advertising campaign by the Center of Consumer Freedom, a public relations firms with ties to the meat industry. The ads call the Beyond Burgers as "ultra processed imitations" and casting aspersions about what's in  it. The burgers have even been compared to dog food with the question of what's in it. Meat producers are taking this fight to lawmakers. At least twenty-five states have introduced bills making it illegal to use the words "beef" and "meat" on products made from plant products. This also includes meat that's been cultured in a lab. The bills also calls for Beyond Meat and Impossible Burger to put the word "imitation" on all their packages. Missouri became the first state to pass the bill which was initially proposed by who else - the Missouri Cattleman's Association.
As you can tell I'm a big fan of the Beyond Beef burgers, having made them for tonight's dinner. They are not dog food. just an alternative to unhealthy meat and  lifesavers in a vegetarian household. They're made from canola and coconut oils, rice protein and potatoes. Beet juice  extract is added to give them that red meat look. The Impossible Burger is somewhat similar in composition but has the addition of heme - an iron containing compound from soy. it enhances the meat flavor of the patties. The burgers may have the same amount of calories but are close to nothing when it comes from cholesterol and saturated fat. They're also high in sodium with 370 milligrams of salt  in the Impossible Burger and 390 in the Beyond Meat . A regular beef patty only has 75 milligrams. My advice - don't eat them that much. Have a burger or any any other plant based "meat" two or three times a month. There are many meatless alternatives out there from bean dishes to recipes that are made from fresh veggies. Save the plant based burgers for special meals.

There should be no controversy when it comes to Beyond Meat and Impossible Burgers. Buy them at your local Burger King (and watch other fast food chains come out with them) or grocery markets. Enjoy them. They are good for you if eaten in moderation. They're also delicious to the point of addictive. Try them today and see.




Run  free, little Honey, run free, angel.

Monday, December 9, 2019

A Very British Christmas

Somehow Christmas and England go together. Maybe it's because that one of the best Christmas stories of all, "A Christmas Carol" is set in London of the 1840's , written by that great British writer, Charles Dickens. Or maybe it's because some of our culinary  traditions have come from there. Whatever it is, recreating a very British Christmas is easy to replicate.

The British are big on turkey. It's mentioned in "A Christmas Carol" with Scrooge having a boy buy the biggest turkey in the market for the Cratchit family. You could easily make this, if you're not sick of the Thanksgiving leftovers. If not, the Brits love ham and a good beef roast. The last is always served with the mouth watering Yorkshire pudding. This is kind of like a giant popover being made with ,eggs ,water and flour. A half cup of pan drippings from the beef gives it a buttery , rich flavor. Serve it heaped with slices of the meat. Brussels sprouts and mashed potatoes round out the meal. Of course it wouldn't be a holiday meal with out mince pies. This may not be for some thanks to the suet or beef fat added in. You can omit it if you want, and just leave in the dried raisins, currents and various peels such as candied lemon and orange. What to drink with all of this? A sweet port wine has been gracing British Christmas tables for three centuries.it originally came from Northern Portugal, from the Douro Valley.It was during Britain's early 17th century battles with France that they discovered this sweet, rich brew, They hated anything French , including wines and turned to Portugal for them. Of course sloe gin is a must , both on Christmas and on Boxing Day, the day after Christmas.

The Great British Baking Show Master Class  shows have introduced us to a variety of holiday treats. One luscious one is Tunis cake, popular in the northern part of the country. It is a Madeira cake, another holiday bake topped with a thick layer of chocolate ganache. If you want to go full on British Christmas , then think about a steamed pudding. This is an elaborate make with fresh breadcrumbs baking powder and suet blended with raisins, currents and candied lemon and orange peels. Baking soda is added to give the pudding rise and flour is used for body. it's more of a steamed fruit cake, boosted up with  brandy. The batter is poured into a buttered or greased pudding bowl. It's then steamed for six hours in a hot water bath.It's served with brandy butter, a mix of butter, confectioners sugar hot water and brandy. This can also be served with mini mince pies too. Trifle is another fun British dessert that graces holiday tables. It's a boozy mix of Madeira or pound cake, cream, sherry, English gelatin and strawberries. (you could use Jello if you're in the states), Sometimes the meal also ends with a plate of rich Scottish shortbreads.

A British Christmas is a fun one. The dinner will make you burst. The desserts are just as rich and filling. It's a memorable way to celebrate the holiday  - with a Dickensian kind of flair.

Saturday, December 7, 2019

Your Decorating Dictionary

This is the season that screams for all sorts of fun, icings , frostings and decorations . Yet do you know what goes with what and what kind of candy decoration works? It pays to be knowledgeable about what you're putting on those baked treats. It makes not only for a tastier treat but also for a prettier one too.

Before you rev up the mixer for frosting, know the differences between icing and frosting. Icing is thinner and glossier , usually reserved for some cakes, breads and buns like hot cross ones.It is perfect for topping sugar or lemon cookies. It's usually made of any kind of milk , confectioner's sugar and corn syrup. An extract, whether vanilla, almond or fruit such as lemon or orange is added for flavor. It's easy to tint. A thicker, maybe more manageable version is royal icing, used primarily in England but gaining popularity here. This is usually made with egg whites, confectioners sugar, and vanilla, however a healthier and safer version is made with aquafaba or the bean water from chickpeas. It's just three ingredients - that and confectioners sugar and some kind of flavoring. You can tint it the same as the regular royal icing. Frosting is heavier thanks to the addition of some kind of  butter, margarine, or shortening. This is perfect for cakes and cupcakes and can be tinted in any color and piped to look like ruffles and rosettes. Both icings can be frozen if you make too much or are planning a second batch of treats. There are also glazes. These are for reserved for Bundt cakes and sweet yeast breads and rolls. A basic ones has butter, confectioners sugar and enough milk to thin it out for an almost watery consistency. It can be flavored like icing , but most home bakers usually add in vanilla or lemon/ orange.

Now the extras. There's so many - what comes first? For the best and simplest designs just tint or dye the icings and frostings. You can use the old fashioned liquid food coloring however the best results come from gel food coloring. It has a glycerin or corn syrup base which makes it thicker and won't ruin the consistency of the frosting or icing. Of course there has to be red and green sprinkles which can be baked into cookies or sprinkled on cakes cupcakes and even buns. A prettier effect is sanding sugar , especially the silver which sparkles like snow in the moonlight.  What is sanding sugar? It's dried out sugar syrup and then the leftover granules are screened and colored. You could create it at home using the British turbinado sugar and gel food coloring. You could try it in red and green to be sprinkled over icing or frosting. Another elegant decoration is a sprinkling of silver dragees, These can be pretty on butter cookies but also on iced snowflake sugar cookies. Serious home bakers usually apply them with tweezers but you can use your fingers. You can also buy gold and pearl dragees too. Chopped nuts are a classic decoration. There's such a big choice from walnut chips which look sweet on brownies or slivered almonds that go well on butter or lemon ones. Candy also works. Mini candy canes are always fun on cupcakes and crushed ones can grace anything from brownies to fudge to cookies.

Holiday treat decorating is always fun. Just know what you're using for the prettiest and tastiest cakes, cookies, breads and brownies. It makes it easier to ice and frost , sprinkling, painting,  and glazing,

Friday, December 6, 2019

Target's New Line Good And Gather

Target is always a fun place especially for foodies.  It's one of the most exciting places for finding different and new brands. Now the store has introduced a new line Good & Gather, which features tasty and organic foods.

The line was actually brought out in September however I discovered it when I bought their pretzels about a week ago on my annual Thanksgiving run.

This new line has 650 (!) new products and six categories from beverages to pantry. What is good about the line is that the products are made without high fructose corn syrup, artificial flavors and colors and no synthetic colors. It's a perfect brand for parents wanting their kids to have healthier foods without any harmful side effects. There's also enough variety that little ones - and big ones won't get bored. Good and Gather has some fun choices. It can provide you with a whole meal and dessert to boot. You can buy the basics like their butter and milk along with fresh fruit and veggies to create wholesome dishes.

As with anything Target I love it. The pretzels' ingredients are all organic and they're a bit chunkier than the average pretzel stick, perfect for the crunch factor. Other crunchy snacks I want to try is Good and Gather's  unsweetened mango strips and coconut chips. I think their baked pita chips and sea salt veggie straws will be making an appearance at my holiday party table.Their chocolate infused almond butter is definitely on my radar as is their strawberry-rhubarb jam, both perfect on toasted brioche bread. Good and Gather has lunch and dinner choices too. I want to try their  burrata lemon zest ravioli, a combination of lemon and four cheeses. I can see serving them with a lemon butter sauce for  a lighter take on a traditional dish. The ravioli also come stuffed with tomato , mozzarella and basil for a classic flavor.  The shredded chicken looks interesting and too good to pass up too.Another must try is their sparkling water. Target has put together some interesting pairings such as cranberry -citrus and blackberry-raspberry along with ginger peach and coconut pineapple. Their watermelon sparkling water looks refreshing too.


Check out Good and Gather while you're holiday shopping. Target's new brand can supply you with your Christmas dinner and holiday party fare. They are yet another in house brand to love.

Thursday, December 5, 2019

A Holiday Buffet Of Sandwiches

Forget the canapes and mini bruschettas. Nix the pineapple and bacon sticks. Finger sandwiches are the way to go for your holiday party. They can be fun; they can be elegant. Most of all they are filling and tasty - two musts for any party food. Serve them and you'll have happy guests.

David Tanis was of this mindset when he created a variety of different sandwiches for his City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. His inspiration was the famed Nora Charles, Dashiell Hammett's heroine, portrayed by the great Myrna Loy. Nora and her husband, Nick, played by William Powell solve crimes in the glamourous Art Deco Thirties. During one wild Christmas party  she calls room service to order up a whole flock of sandwiches. This can work today. Mr. Tanis offers a whole flock of tasty ones that will suit everyone's tastes. They're tiny bites of flavor that can be prepared throughout the evening. The ingredients are interesting and guests as well as hosts will feel satisfied after three. It's also prudent, especially if you intend to also serve buzzy drinks and punches. Imbibing on a full stomach will cut down the threat of them getting buzzed or sick too quickly .Another plus, guests can bring home extra sandwiches or they can be served the next day for lunch (although there may not be any left). Just remember the bread is the most important part. Get Pullman or rye loaves. Challah and sourdough boules work too as do good brioche buns. If you can't get these, fall back on King's Hawaiian rolls that work for a vast variety of sandwich bases.

Of course there is the traditional sandwich. Mr. Tanis pairs steak with peppery watercress and jalapeno. on small whole wheat or brioche buns To moisten it try sweet butter (French and unsweetened) and sour cream. He also makes an egg salad without mayo! How does he do it? With olive oil combined with good green Spanish olives, scallions and celery. To give the mix more color  there's red pepper and parsley for a Christmas-y vibe. It's served on sliced, buttered challah bread (you could toast it if you want) and arugula. Anchovy can be added as can capers. There's a riff on the classic date and nut bread with cream cheese. The dates this time are in the cream cheese mixed with a little lime juice. Mr. Tanis recommends using soft juicy dates and natural cream cheese (which you can find at Wegman's). If you can find the last , then sub in ricotta cheese. Crispy salted rosemary herbed pecans are sprinkled on top to offset the sweetness. There is also my favorite croque monsiuer which is spiked with Dijon mustard. You have the choice of using Emmanthal, Gouda or Monterey Jack. Mr. Tanis tops it with a bechamel sauce but you can omit this if you want. These are also baked  which is traditional and served warm. If they do get cold, a quick heat in the oven will revive them.

As Nora Charles would say, have a flock of sandwiches at your holiday party. A small plate of different ones will make any guest happy. They're fun and festive , but best of all filling. Just make sure your Asta* doesn't steal a few.

 * Asta was the Charles' faithful terrier in "The Thin Man" series.

Wednesday, December 4, 2019

Baking Book For Holiday Bakers

No matter how good a home baker you are you still need inspiration and guidance, especially for the holidays. There are some interesting new pastry books out there now that can help.  They'll turn your holiday dessert table into a table from The Great British Baking Show.

Melissa Clark, the creator of the New York Times Food section's weekly column, A Good Appetite, reviewed and rated these interesting books. Thanks to America's obsession with all shows baking  like the aforementioned  The Great British Baking Show and Nailed It. Home bakers are upping their game. There is no such thing as quick and easy. It has to be elaborate and different. Recipes do reflect the times. Ms. Clark has noticed how trends affect the recipes in all the books. She has counted at least ten call for matcha  powder which is even in pound cake and ancient grains such as teff. einkorn and rye in the book from Tartine's pastry chef.. The biggest change is the use of gluten free flours and how far those recipes have come. This is clearly evident in Elisabeth Pruett, Tartine's pastry chef and co author of  Tartine: A Classic Revisited that she wrote with Chad Robertson. Chef  Pruett is a celiac sufferer  herself, kept  it to herself as she created the restaurant's famed tarts and croissants. Now the gluten free recipes shine such as her chocolate cream pie with oat crust. It was a big hit in Ms. Clark's household with her daughter and the daughter's gluten allergic friend wanting seconds.

The other cookbooks shine too.Another restaurant pastry chef, Margarita Manke's Baking At Republique which feature mostly French pastries and one coconut tapioca soup recipe honoring her Filipino heritage. Another  pastry chef, Joanne Chang of Flour Bakery gives us Pastry Love:A Baker's Journal of Favorite Recipes.  The book has ethereal recipes such as Japanese cotton cheesecake and fun ones such as Super Bowl cupcakes and cinnamon bun popcorn. If you want to embrace Midwestern baking then look to Shauna Severn's Midwest  Made: Big Bold Baking From The Heartland whick features such family favorites as Swedish flop cake  and the light lemon angel pie. There is even a recipe for the buttery and much loved favorite Kringle. Pastry cookbook veteran and Food section contributor, Samantha Seneviratne's  The Joys Of Baking: Recipes for a Sweet Life  has classic recipes such as pain au chocolate zinged up with the addition of Earl Grey tea. For those home bakers who want just simple recipes  check out Odette Williams Simple Cake: All You Need to Keep Your Friends and Family In Cake. Her milk and honey cake, a buttery layered one is rich with dark honey and butter milk. A simple homemade whipped cream tops it and honey is drizzled on top for decoration.

These are the books that will help elevate any holiday dessert table. They go a step further than just the usual cookie recipes. It's time to step up the baking game with these sweet books.