Most chefs, especially when they attain celebrity status , leave their hometowns and roots for good. Not so for Art Smth, a chef and baker from northern Florida.He moved back to his home town , after a glittering career. Why? His heart is there and so are his plans for the next step in his career.
Kim Severson profiled and interviewed this amazing chef/baker in today's New York Times Food section. Chef Smith came from Jasper,a small, sleepy southern town located not far from the Georgia border. He has cooked for the Obamas as well as for Oprah Winfrey, two Florida governors and even the British royal family.His children have received formal baptismal blessings from the Pope . His friends include Lady Gaga and Jeb Bush. One would think he'd want to open up restaurants and bakeries in the glittery celebrity chef worlds of New York,LA or even Miami however that's not Chef Smith's dream. It is one where his hometown of Jasper is revived . There was only a phosphate factory and a nursery home along with being the birthplace of the writer Lillian Smith, known for writing the controversial book, Strange Fruit. Jasper is located in Hamilton county, one of Florida's poorest counties.It' s a forgotten or ignored town - as tourists drive by it to see Disney World three hours south of it.That's all about to change. The sleepy southern town is about to get enthusiastically shaken awake.
Chef Smith has big plans for Jasper which will certainly put it on any foodie's map.It involves Disney , an enterprise that has boosted the state's tourists revenues for decades.The resort is letting him open his two hundred seat restaurant Homecoming : Florida Kitchen And Southern Shine where it specializes in farm to fork cuisine.It's design was inspired by turn of the century Floridian architecture. The menu is pure Southern too as well as trendy , deviled eggs, chicken and dumplings and kale salad with walnuts and Georgia cheese.Of course there will be Southern cakes such as the classic hummingbird cake, twelve layer ones, Key lime pound cakes and moonshine cakes. The last is a tribute to his grandfather ,a moonshiner, however the cake is a sweet moist one made with fruit, The cakes will be baked in what is now a closed complex that once housed jai alai and poker room. Once was a mecca for local gamblers will now become the future of a commercial bakery that will be selling a taste of the South to all of America.Not only will it sell cakes at an on site bakery but also a country store that sells organic produce.Lucikly he has Florida heiress Margie Geddes along with Jasper native Susan Levin Turner to help.
Some celebrity chefs conveniently forget where they came from, Not Chef Smith . He is going back to Jasper to put it on the culinary map.
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Tuesday, April 26, 2016
Six Minute Meals
Can a hot delicious meal be made in six minutes? Yes! Thanks to a brand new cookbook that shows how to make any kind a meal in six minutes . The recipes are not only fast but fun. What's best of all it that anything can be made in no time from veggies to desserts, from breakfasts to dinners.
The author of this amazing book is Irish chef, Stuart O'Keefe,from Nenagh in central Ireland who is now living in California. His book, The Quick Six Fix (William Morrow Imprint) is not only a blend of interesting So Cal and Irish influenced food but also a great tip book about pantry organization. I love his advice in the first chapters, especially the must have and nice to have lists.There is also a recipe key with symbols. My favorite is the stop sign that indicates stop and clean whatever pan , pot or utensil was used. Doing such also makes for a much quicker clean up afterwards although it will take more than six minutes to clean up everything. Chef O'Keefe also has a 3X symbol on the recipes too. He gently but firmly urges home chefs to read the recipe three times before executing it as well as the included tips. Doing such will make the recipe more understood and will not result in any bad surprises like overcooking or under cooking later on.This is perfect for novices who are just getting the hang of cooking.The man ingredients in every recipe, from breakfast to dessert are emphasized in blue caps. This helps in writing out the grocery list for the recipe.Also recipes that can be whole meals are indicated by a fork, knife and spoon sign.
The recipes are fun and easy , along with being an homage to Chef O'Keefe's Irish roots and family. There are spins on his mother's chicken soup and bangers and leek mash . His Aunt Derry's recipe for raspberry custard is on there too. Chef O'Keefe's new life in Southern California is seen in the recipes of Speedy Gonzales eggs and a variety of breakfast smoothies. The recipes are divided into categories from breakfast to meats , chicken, pork and fish to salads and breakfasts. Wing lovers will enjoy Chef O'Keefe's Buffalo chicken wings with Maytag blue cheese dipping sauce.It's roasted wings with name brand Frank's hot cayenne sauce and a homemade blue cheese dip.There is the easy and elegant Thirteen Spice chicken with creme fraiche. The thirteen spices come from Old Bay Seasoning. Home chefs wanting something exotic will love Pork Curry In A Hurry while beef fans will love Port Marinated skirt steak with roasted grape tomatoes. The sides are amazing too and would be good on their own. Brussels sprouts get special treatment with the addition of chorizo sausages while oven roasted fingerling potatoes get amped up with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and thyme.Desserts are wonderful, from a chocolate- y spin on the classic Eton Mess to a decadent updating of the classic s'more with giant chocolate chip cookies subbing in for the graham crackers.
Thanks to The Quick Six Fix is a great cookbook for busy home chefs who want to cook a satisfying meal in no time. There's a variety of delicious dishes that get them out of the kitchen and at the table. in no time. It's a quick cook with interesting recipes.
The author of this amazing book is Irish chef, Stuart O'Keefe,from Nenagh in central Ireland who is now living in California. His book, The Quick Six Fix (William Morrow Imprint) is not only a blend of interesting So Cal and Irish influenced food but also a great tip book about pantry organization. I love his advice in the first chapters, especially the must have and nice to have lists.There is also a recipe key with symbols. My favorite is the stop sign that indicates stop and clean whatever pan , pot or utensil was used. Doing such also makes for a much quicker clean up afterwards although it will take more than six minutes to clean up everything. Chef O'Keefe also has a 3X symbol on the recipes too. He gently but firmly urges home chefs to read the recipe three times before executing it as well as the included tips. Doing such will make the recipe more understood and will not result in any bad surprises like overcooking or under cooking later on.This is perfect for novices who are just getting the hang of cooking.The man ingredients in every recipe, from breakfast to dessert are emphasized in blue caps. This helps in writing out the grocery list for the recipe.Also recipes that can be whole meals are indicated by a fork, knife and spoon sign.
The recipes are fun and easy , along with being an homage to Chef O'Keefe's Irish roots and family. There are spins on his mother's chicken soup and bangers and leek mash . His Aunt Derry's recipe for raspberry custard is on there too. Chef O'Keefe's new life in Southern California is seen in the recipes of Speedy Gonzales eggs and a variety of breakfast smoothies. The recipes are divided into categories from breakfast to meats , chicken, pork and fish to salads and breakfasts. Wing lovers will enjoy Chef O'Keefe's Buffalo chicken wings with Maytag blue cheese dipping sauce.It's roasted wings with name brand Frank's hot cayenne sauce and a homemade blue cheese dip.There is the easy and elegant Thirteen Spice chicken with creme fraiche. The thirteen spices come from Old Bay Seasoning. Home chefs wanting something exotic will love Pork Curry In A Hurry while beef fans will love Port Marinated skirt steak with roasted grape tomatoes. The sides are amazing too and would be good on their own. Brussels sprouts get special treatment with the addition of chorizo sausages while oven roasted fingerling potatoes get amped up with a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese and thyme.Desserts are wonderful, from a chocolate- y spin on the classic Eton Mess to a decadent updating of the classic s'more with giant chocolate chip cookies subbing in for the graham crackers.
Thanks to The Quick Six Fix is a great cookbook for busy home chefs who want to cook a satisfying meal in no time. There's a variety of delicious dishes that get them out of the kitchen and at the table. in no time. It's a quick cook with interesting recipes.
Monday, April 25, 2016
Orthodox Easter Fasts And Feasts
This is Holy Week in both Greek and Russian Orthodoxy, It is a time of strict fasting followed by glorious feasting celebrating the Lord's resurrection. Ancient traditions are honored and acted upon with recipes passed down for generations. They reflect the people and the lands that created them.
The Orthodox Easter has to follow Passover , since it takes the New Testament literally and is
based on the Julian calendar (while Catholics and Protestants celebrate the Gregorian calendar one). Both religions have heavy fasting periods, especially around Lent (there is also a Christmas fast too). Even the weeks before Lent have purifying fasts where meat and other animal products are not allowed but dairy and eggs are permissible . The Lenten period kicked off with a Clean Monday fast where no food is eaten the first Monday until Wednesday evening. This is the longest fast in the church calendar. The second through the sixth weeks sees them nix almost everything except fruits vegetables, wheat products and water. This makes for sparse but healthy eating. Luckily they can eat nuts so peanut butter and bread provide some sustenance Wine and oil are only allowed on the weekends. There is a meal eaten on Holy Thursday then strict fasting (absolutely no food) on Good Friday. It is broken on Holy Saturday after the liturgy of Saint Basil. Fruit and some wine are allowed for sustenance.
Both Greek and Russian Easters are glorious affairs . The Greeks have a light meal after midnight mass to ease into eating. Some roast a whole lamb on a spit while others also roast goaton Easter Sunday. Both are usually stuffed with rice, pine nuts, cinnamon and raisins. The Russians celebrate with the tasty stroganoff, beef strips in smetana or sour cream or chicken kiev, a rolled and breaded chicken breast filled with garlic butter and herbs. Bread is important with both. The Greek Orthodox bake a fluffy challah like loaf studded with bright red eggs. The braids called tsoureki symbolizes the Holy Trinity while the eggs are symbolic of Christ's blood. The Russians go wild with their Easter breads too and create the large airy kulich. This is a bread that bakes in coffee or juice cans and resembles the Italian panettone or pan d'oro in shape and height but is spiced with saffron and cardamon. A thick confectioner's glaze is poured on top and then topped with a heavy dose of colorful sprinkles. Cheese is also a big Easter treat There is pashka a kind of cheesecake mold that has Pascals symbols on it.It's a rich mix of farmer's cheese , heavy cream , egg yolk and sugar. The Greeks have a savory and sweet cheese dishes ,depending on the location.
The Oerhodox Holy week is an interesting time, beginning with fasts and ending with feasts. The foods to end celebrate are amazing, rich in tradition and in flavor. They are true gems passed dow from generation to generation.
The Orthodox Easter has to follow Passover , since it takes the New Testament literally and is
based on the Julian calendar (while Catholics and Protestants celebrate the Gregorian calendar one). Both religions have heavy fasting periods, especially around Lent (there is also a Christmas fast too). Even the weeks before Lent have purifying fasts where meat and other animal products are not allowed but dairy and eggs are permissible . The Lenten period kicked off with a Clean Monday fast where no food is eaten the first Monday until Wednesday evening. This is the longest fast in the church calendar. The second through the sixth weeks sees them nix almost everything except fruits vegetables, wheat products and water. This makes for sparse but healthy eating. Luckily they can eat nuts so peanut butter and bread provide some sustenance Wine and oil are only allowed on the weekends. There is a meal eaten on Holy Thursday then strict fasting (absolutely no food) on Good Friday. It is broken on Holy Saturday after the liturgy of Saint Basil. Fruit and some wine are allowed for sustenance.
Both Greek and Russian Easters are glorious affairs . The Greeks have a light meal after midnight mass to ease into eating. Some roast a whole lamb on a spit while others also roast goaton Easter Sunday. Both are usually stuffed with rice, pine nuts, cinnamon and raisins. The Russians celebrate with the tasty stroganoff, beef strips in smetana or sour cream or chicken kiev, a rolled and breaded chicken breast filled with garlic butter and herbs. Bread is important with both. The Greek Orthodox bake a fluffy challah like loaf studded with bright red eggs. The braids called tsoureki symbolizes the Holy Trinity while the eggs are symbolic of Christ's blood. The Russians go wild with their Easter breads too and create the large airy kulich. This is a bread that bakes in coffee or juice cans and resembles the Italian panettone or pan d'oro in shape and height but is spiced with saffron and cardamon. A thick confectioner's glaze is poured on top and then topped with a heavy dose of colorful sprinkles. Cheese is also a big Easter treat There is pashka a kind of cheesecake mold that has Pascals symbols on it.It's a rich mix of farmer's cheese , heavy cream , egg yolk and sugar. The Greeks have a savory and sweet cheese dishes ,depending on the location.
The Oerhodox Holy week is an interesting time, beginning with fasts and ending with feasts. The foods to end celebrate are amazing, rich in tradition and in flavor. They are true gems passed dow from generation to generation.
Saturday, April 23, 2016
The Challenges Of Passover Cooking
Passover is one of the most ancient and traditional of meals. However with any holiday meal, it can pose challenges ,leaving home chefs to scratch their heads. One problem is vegetarianism - the other how to make something new with a limited allowance of ingredients. Not to worry - there are solutions.
Many families have to embrace their kids or relatives new vegetarian lifestyle. What happens then to the lamb or brisket?It can still be made but new dishes have to be added.One idea is vegetarian potato and mushroom croquettes, more or less based on latkes. These are really patties that also has onion added for flavor . The binder is ground maztoh meal. The potatoes are first boiled and mashed and then the sauteed onions and mushrooms are the added as are the crumbs. The croquettes are then mounded and fried in extra virgin olive oil (it is considered suitable for Passover cooking) for eight minutes until crisp.A more colorful dish is roasted beet casserole. This recipe works for both vegans and vegetarians.It's simply layering sliced beets in a lightly oiled baking dish and then sprinkling salt, sugar and paprika on top of them. It's then dotted with margarine and baked for half a hour. Spinach and leek can come together with potato to create a kind of strata.It is labor intensive with cooking the potatoes first however they can be microwaved to save time. There is also making the cashew "cheese" which also requires avocado and layering of the different ingredients from soaked matzoh to leeks and baby spinach.
Another challenge for Passover home chefs is the dessert.Leavening is not allowed so that rules out many cakes.However that also forces a lot of creative thinking. A mock chestnut torte is an elegant way to solve this problem. Since chestnut puree is not acceptable for the holiday, mashed sweet potato can be used as the base. The dessert has an almost souffle like quality because the six eggs required are separated and the whites are made into a meringue first before being added to the mix of sweet potatoes, yolks and dark chocolate.Melted chocolate is drizzled over the cake as a glaze and then it's decorated with raspberries.Macaroons are a traditional must and these, too, can be made at home.It's an easy recipe that just needs egg yolks , granulated sugar and two cups ground almonds. Home chefs can also make the coconut ones too, subbing in the ground almond with shredded coconuts and using the egg whites instead of the yolks, Chocolate chips can be added or cocoa powder added to the recipe for richer treats. Kids will love matzoh brittle, matzoh topped with homemade caramel and dark chocolate and then broken into bite sized pieces.
Passover cooking should not come with problems. There are solutions for dealing with vegetarianism as well as what to make for dessert. These provide for a tasty meal that suits everyone;s beliefs and taste with ending on a high sweet note.
Many families have to embrace their kids or relatives new vegetarian lifestyle. What happens then to the lamb or brisket?It can still be made but new dishes have to be added.One idea is vegetarian potato and mushroom croquettes, more or less based on latkes. These are really patties that also has onion added for flavor . The binder is ground maztoh meal. The potatoes are first boiled and mashed and then the sauteed onions and mushrooms are the added as are the crumbs. The croquettes are then mounded and fried in extra virgin olive oil (it is considered suitable for Passover cooking) for eight minutes until crisp.A more colorful dish is roasted beet casserole. This recipe works for both vegans and vegetarians.It's simply layering sliced beets in a lightly oiled baking dish and then sprinkling salt, sugar and paprika on top of them. It's then dotted with margarine and baked for half a hour. Spinach and leek can come together with potato to create a kind of strata.It is labor intensive with cooking the potatoes first however they can be microwaved to save time. There is also making the cashew "cheese" which also requires avocado and layering of the different ingredients from soaked matzoh to leeks and baby spinach.
Another challenge for Passover home chefs is the dessert.Leavening is not allowed so that rules out many cakes.However that also forces a lot of creative thinking. A mock chestnut torte is an elegant way to solve this problem. Since chestnut puree is not acceptable for the holiday, mashed sweet potato can be used as the base. The dessert has an almost souffle like quality because the six eggs required are separated and the whites are made into a meringue first before being added to the mix of sweet potatoes, yolks and dark chocolate.Melted chocolate is drizzled over the cake as a glaze and then it's decorated with raspberries.Macaroons are a traditional must and these, too, can be made at home.It's an easy recipe that just needs egg yolks , granulated sugar and two cups ground almonds. Home chefs can also make the coconut ones too, subbing in the ground almond with shredded coconuts and using the egg whites instead of the yolks, Chocolate chips can be added or cocoa powder added to the recipe for richer treats. Kids will love matzoh brittle, matzoh topped with homemade caramel and dark chocolate and then broken into bite sized pieces.
Passover cooking should not come with problems. There are solutions for dealing with vegetarianism as well as what to make for dessert. These provide for a tasty meal that suits everyone;s beliefs and taste with ending on a high sweet note.
Friday, April 22, 2016
The Diversity of Ecuadorian Cuisine
Ecuador is primarily known for the Galapagos Islands where Charles Darwin developed his evolution theories. However it should also be known for its' varied cuisine that reflects its history and topography.It's an interesting blend of sea and land along with some ancient recipes..
Like most South American countries Ecuador has a mountainous area leading into coastal lowlands. Pork chicken and beef are popular in the mountains along with cuy or guinea pig. The last, a shocker to any North American who had one as a companion, is made with garlic and native chilis along with pisco, an Ecuadorian brandy.It's one of the country's most ancient dishes, first being cooked by the Incas. Cuy was a sign of wealth too, being enjoyed by the local Incan royalty and used also to portend omens.However the country is also known for its' other dishes such as their version of arroz con pollo that is highly spiced with cumin and achiote, a plant derivative that adds a red color to the dish. There's also fritada de gallina, chicken made with fermented corn drink or chicha along with garlic and onion.There's also a kind of chicken fried rice ,chaulafan de pollo that's spiked with bacon, scrambled eggs and even raisins along with veggies and spices. Students make arroz con huevos, rice and eggs tweaked with plantains and avocados,Plantains or plantanos are also big in Ecuadorian cuisine. They are usually stuffed with cheese or topped with it.
The country has a lush coastline and its' reflected in its seafood dishes. They're mostly shrimp but cooked in variety of different ways There is arroz con camarones , a kind of paella spiked with native spices along with onions , peppers and tomatoes. Chorizos, those highly spiced pork sausages can also be added.Another paella influenced dish is arroz marinero which is chock full of not only shrimp but also clams, squid and bay scallops.The Ecuadorians also appreciate beef and pork dishes as well as lamb. Many home kitchens produce carne colorada, a braised beef dish that's been marinaded in a mix of beer, garlic and oregano. Pork is also a staple and it's the base of pernil, a holiday pork dish popular throughout South and Central America.It's a pork loin marinated in bitter orange juice along with clove and cinnamon for a few hours. Lamb is also marinaded , especially in the dish seco de borrego, A combo of beer and wine is poured over it as well as the usual Ecuadorian combo of achiote and cumin.The Ecuadorians love goat too and make a stew out of it with the native fruit naranjillo, a type of kiwi that has a tart and acidic flavor. Chicha is also added for some kick.
Ecuador is an interesting country , full of wild and wonderful dishes. They reflect a country that has both Incan and European influences in its' cuisine. The food is tasty, flavorful and good.
Remember those affected by the Ecuadorian earthquake. Donate to the Red Cross now.
Like most South American countries Ecuador has a mountainous area leading into coastal lowlands. Pork chicken and beef are popular in the mountains along with cuy or guinea pig. The last, a shocker to any North American who had one as a companion, is made with garlic and native chilis along with pisco, an Ecuadorian brandy.It's one of the country's most ancient dishes, first being cooked by the Incas. Cuy was a sign of wealth too, being enjoyed by the local Incan royalty and used also to portend omens.However the country is also known for its' other dishes such as their version of arroz con pollo that is highly spiced with cumin and achiote, a plant derivative that adds a red color to the dish. There's also fritada de gallina, chicken made with fermented corn drink or chicha along with garlic and onion.There's also a kind of chicken fried rice ,chaulafan de pollo that's spiked with bacon, scrambled eggs and even raisins along with veggies and spices. Students make arroz con huevos, rice and eggs tweaked with plantains and avocados,Plantains or plantanos are also big in Ecuadorian cuisine. They are usually stuffed with cheese or topped with it.
The country has a lush coastline and its' reflected in its seafood dishes. They're mostly shrimp but cooked in variety of different ways There is arroz con camarones , a kind of paella spiked with native spices along with onions , peppers and tomatoes. Chorizos, those highly spiced pork sausages can also be added.Another paella influenced dish is arroz marinero which is chock full of not only shrimp but also clams, squid and bay scallops.The Ecuadorians also appreciate beef and pork dishes as well as lamb. Many home kitchens produce carne colorada, a braised beef dish that's been marinaded in a mix of beer, garlic and oregano. Pork is also a staple and it's the base of pernil, a holiday pork dish popular throughout South and Central America.It's a pork loin marinated in bitter orange juice along with clove and cinnamon for a few hours. Lamb is also marinaded , especially in the dish seco de borrego, A combo of beer and wine is poured over it as well as the usual Ecuadorian combo of achiote and cumin.The Ecuadorians love goat too and make a stew out of it with the native fruit naranjillo, a type of kiwi that has a tart and acidic flavor. Chicha is also added for some kick.
Ecuador is an interesting country , full of wild and wonderful dishes. They reflect a country that has both Incan and European influences in its' cuisine. The food is tasty, flavorful and good.
Remember those affected by the Ecuadorian earthquake. Donate to the Red Cross now.
Thursday, April 21, 2016
Another Take On Asparagus
Asparagus is the star of the Spring season as it was mentioned last week here, It's is popular in a variety of dishes. The stalks really are versatile, being perfect in crepes or as a stir fry.
David Tanis knows this and wrote about them in his column A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section . This is the height of the asparagus season on the East Coast. This is when the stalks taste the best and have the best texture. Should foodies eat the Peruvian ones or the west Coast ones from Southern California and Mexico available all year round?.Yes, if the craving is that strong but Mr. Tanis advises waiting.The stalks will taste better and be that much more satisfying as the season rolls in.There is also the problem of jet lag, meaning the veggies may be picked fresh , but as we all know that freshness only lasts for a short period.What do raw talks look like? The spears should be smooth and glossy with tightly closed tips. The bottom ends should look just cut too. This means the asparagus is fresh.As with any cut green, that freshness needs to be maintained until cooking. Advocates recommend standing the spears upright in the fridge in an inch of cold water, similar to what you'd do with cut flowers. The best bet is cooking the asparagus the day you buy it. The fresh taste won't be diminished then.
Asparagus spears come in three widths: pencil thin, medium and jumbo.If you go for the ultra skinny remember to cut it into two inch lengths and either saute or stir fry. The thicker ones are better steamed or grilled, roasted or simmered. These are the most versatile to work with .If you do opt for the fatter ones, remember that they need to be peeled.It's beneficial for cooking and for a more silkier texture. Medium or thin ones don;t need this extra process. White asparagus, also popular right now always needs peeling.Cut off or snap off tough bottoms. If home chefs choose the latter then they should hold their hands towards the bottom end of the stalks or too much will be discarded. Be warned. Stalks can snap in the middle if the technique is carelessly done.The main thing , no matter the size or cooking method, is to make sure the spears are properly cooked. Keep them bright green and firm.As Mr. Tanis advises it's better to keep them underdone, residual heat will cause them to continue cooking as they get lifted out. The recipes are stuffing them into buckwheat crepes, stir frying them with walnuts and butter braising them. The last recipe is probably the best way to enjoy them, There's also lemon juice and fresh herbs such as dill, parsley, tarragon and chervil to bring out the sweet earthiness.
Take advantage of asparagus season while it's here. Now is the time to enjoy those tender , fresh Springy stalks. Make them any way , just to relish that greenness.
David Tanis knows this and wrote about them in his column A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section . This is the height of the asparagus season on the East Coast. This is when the stalks taste the best and have the best texture. Should foodies eat the Peruvian ones or the west Coast ones from Southern California and Mexico available all year round?.Yes, if the craving is that strong but Mr. Tanis advises waiting.The stalks will taste better and be that much more satisfying as the season rolls in.There is also the problem of jet lag, meaning the veggies may be picked fresh , but as we all know that freshness only lasts for a short period.What do raw talks look like? The spears should be smooth and glossy with tightly closed tips. The bottom ends should look just cut too. This means the asparagus is fresh.As with any cut green, that freshness needs to be maintained until cooking. Advocates recommend standing the spears upright in the fridge in an inch of cold water, similar to what you'd do with cut flowers. The best bet is cooking the asparagus the day you buy it. The fresh taste won't be diminished then.
Asparagus spears come in three widths: pencil thin, medium and jumbo.If you go for the ultra skinny remember to cut it into two inch lengths and either saute or stir fry. The thicker ones are better steamed or grilled, roasted or simmered. These are the most versatile to work with .If you do opt for the fatter ones, remember that they need to be peeled.It's beneficial for cooking and for a more silkier texture. Medium or thin ones don;t need this extra process. White asparagus, also popular right now always needs peeling.Cut off or snap off tough bottoms. If home chefs choose the latter then they should hold their hands towards the bottom end of the stalks or too much will be discarded. Be warned. Stalks can snap in the middle if the technique is carelessly done.The main thing , no matter the size or cooking method, is to make sure the spears are properly cooked. Keep them bright green and firm.As Mr. Tanis advises it's better to keep them underdone, residual heat will cause them to continue cooking as they get lifted out. The recipes are stuffing them into buckwheat crepes, stir frying them with walnuts and butter braising them. The last recipe is probably the best way to enjoy them, There's also lemon juice and fresh herbs such as dill, parsley, tarragon and chervil to bring out the sweet earthiness.
Take advantage of asparagus season while it's here. Now is the time to enjoy those tender , fresh Springy stalks. Make them any way , just to relish that greenness.
Wednesday, April 20, 2016
Celebrating The Persian New Year
Before there was Passover and Easter there was the Persian New Year or Nowruz. This holiday brought in the new Spring season along with a variety of different dishes.It shows Iranian cooking at it's best,, full of colors and flavors.
Melissa Clark wrote about this precursor of Spring holidays in her A Good Appetite in today's New York Times Food section.Nowruz is one of those non-religious holidays, similar to our Thanksgiving in the sense that all religions, Muslim, Jewish and Christian celebrate this ancient Zoroastrian holiday that has been celebrated continually for 3,000 years, millenniums before Islamic conquest .Preparations for it include many rites that are familiar to us. There are dyed eggs, complete housecleaning and copious amounts of herbs. Nowruz occurred on March 13th of this year however the holiday dishes can be enjoyed all season long. the holiday lasts for thirteen days with feasting and visiting.Los Angeles has the most Iranians however it surprisingly lacks Persian restaurant. Most holiday dinners occur at home with home cooking and ancient recipes. The dishes are fragrant , diverse and highly refined, based on complex culinary techniques.The cooking influenced Middle Eastern ,Moroccan, Northern Indian and Turkish cuisines with its' highly sensuous recipes. Persian cooking is known for its' fragrant and flavorful tastes.
A Persian kitchen is full of aromas. It is perfumed with flowers and herbs such as roses fenugreek and mint along with spices such as saffron, sumac and cardamon .The Iranians were using pomegranates long before they became trendy and barberry a type of cranberry like berry. Nowruz dishes contain these and are chock full of symbolism. There is sabzi polo mahi an herbed rice with fish that represents life and rebirth , fresh green herbs that means renewal and rebirth while the rice symbolizes prosperity.Kuku sabzi a, type of frittata stuffed with herbs to represent fertility. Herbs are in abundance in Persian cooking which represent the earth Ms. Clark gives the recipe for Persian rice which is basmati rice redolent with such herbs as parsley, cilantro mint along with basil, fenugreek chives and tarragon.Saffron is also added along with ghee for flavor and color. Sweets are also a big part of Nowruz. Toot, a rose water flavored almond paste represents a life full of love and sweetness is also made.It's a homemade version of marzipan made with ground almonds, confectioners sugar and rose water that's molded into hearts or cute figures like bunnies.
Nowrus is the well that all spring holidays come from. It also is a showcase of Persian cooking at its best, full of flavor and fragrance. The dishes can be made even now as the season continues on.
Melissa Clark wrote about this precursor of Spring holidays in her A Good Appetite in today's New York Times Food section.Nowruz is one of those non-religious holidays, similar to our Thanksgiving in the sense that all religions, Muslim, Jewish and Christian celebrate this ancient Zoroastrian holiday that has been celebrated continually for 3,000 years, millenniums before Islamic conquest .Preparations for it include many rites that are familiar to us. There are dyed eggs, complete housecleaning and copious amounts of herbs. Nowruz occurred on March 13th of this year however the holiday dishes can be enjoyed all season long. the holiday lasts for thirteen days with feasting and visiting.Los Angeles has the most Iranians however it surprisingly lacks Persian restaurant. Most holiday dinners occur at home with home cooking and ancient recipes. The dishes are fragrant , diverse and highly refined, based on complex culinary techniques.The cooking influenced Middle Eastern ,Moroccan, Northern Indian and Turkish cuisines with its' highly sensuous recipes. Persian cooking is known for its' fragrant and flavorful tastes.
A Persian kitchen is full of aromas. It is perfumed with flowers and herbs such as roses fenugreek and mint along with spices such as saffron, sumac and cardamon .The Iranians were using pomegranates long before they became trendy and barberry a type of cranberry like berry. Nowruz dishes contain these and are chock full of symbolism. There is sabzi polo mahi an herbed rice with fish that represents life and rebirth , fresh green herbs that means renewal and rebirth while the rice symbolizes prosperity.Kuku sabzi a, type of frittata stuffed with herbs to represent fertility. Herbs are in abundance in Persian cooking which represent the earth Ms. Clark gives the recipe for Persian rice which is basmati rice redolent with such herbs as parsley, cilantro mint along with basil, fenugreek chives and tarragon.Saffron is also added along with ghee for flavor and color. Sweets are also a big part of Nowruz. Toot, a rose water flavored almond paste represents a life full of love and sweetness is also made.It's a homemade version of marzipan made with ground almonds, confectioners sugar and rose water that's molded into hearts or cute figures like bunnies.
Nowrus is the well that all spring holidays come from. It also is a showcase of Persian cooking at its best, full of flavor and fragrance. The dishes can be made even now as the season continues on.
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