Thursday, January 14, 2016

Don't Let Them Eat Cake

What do you do when you want  to celebrate a birthday? Have a lovely cake made up and then enjoy it with friends and family. That works -except in some restaurants. A new trend is discouraging patrons from bringing in their own desserts, whether by banning cakes all together  fees or charging for plating them.

Kim Severson wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Food section. The practice is called "cakeage" a play on the word corkage, the fee a restaurant gives to open a bottle of wine brought in by customers. It's surprisingly a common practice around the world. A restaurant in London charged the equivalent of $14.00 a person in cakeage fees.(well, leave it to the English to know how to ruin a joyous occasion).On some levels it is understandable,The staff has to cut and plate the dessert. Diners are using the eatery's plates and cutlery. All that has to be cleared away and  washed afterwards which takes time and energy. Bringing in any kind of baked good is an insult to the restaurant's pastry chef as well. He or she spends hours , even days creating the perfect torte or tart . Favoring a store bought over a much thought out creation is a slap in the face.Also pastry chefs do not want other patrons to think that a garishly decorated birthday , anniversary or any other celebratory cake came out of their kitchen,Some chefs don't mind. They accept those supermarket cakes and cupcakes brought in. Their philosophy is people go to a restaurant for a good time and good food. Why spoil that mood by copping a diva attitude over what's served at the end of a meal.

What should you do if you want that cake after a birthday dinner? The old fashioned answer would be have the dessert at home after dinner. Everyone has to agree it's a more relaxed atmosphere. he group can linger for hours over second helpings without being pressured to "wrap it up" from testy waiters.You can also call the eatery a few days in advance and ask if they can make you a special cake (mind you, this will cost).Some chefs and pastry chefs may balk at this, some may see it as challenge to create something memorable and cater to the customer's tastes. Doing this is an excellent form of publicity because everyone usually posts their dining experiences on Yelp these days. Another idea is just ordering two or three desserts , stick a candle -those are allowed - into one of them and then celebrate..What diners should not do is antagonize the waitstaff,no matter how politely they ask for plates. Famed cookbook writer and baker, Rose Levy Beranbaum brought a box of her  deep chocolate passion cake to the  pricey Breslin Restaurant in the Manhattan's Ace Hotel. She wanted her friends,both food professionals, to taste it,it didn't go as she had thought it would. They were humiliated and rebuffed by haughty waiters who refused to serve her creation. A better move would have been skipping dessert and just handing the sweets over to friends after the expensive meal.

So, should you bring or not bring cake to a restaurant? If the restaurant says yes, then fine, if not have it at home. You'll save money along with keeping your favorite eatery's waitstaff and owner sweet

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

Bean Time

A cold January day means a hot , home cooked meal and what better than simple beans themselves. They're an easy cook and can be made a variety of ways. Best of all, they're not as challenging as some think. Any novice home chef can make them with very good results.

Melissa Clark knows this and offered her advice on them in her A Good Appetite column in today's New York Times Food section. Beans are the perfect meal for those watching their diets and budgets. They're a healthy alternative to meat along with being one of the cheapest foods to buy. Already cooked beans are also perfect for freezing for later consumption. Some home chefs prefer using the canned variety simply for convenience's sake. Don't. Buy dried beans and just let them soak.It's an old wives tale that it takes anywhere from four to twenty-four hours for a good bath . Home chefs can soak them for however long they want to.The  practice does have its merits, so don't rule it out entirely. Soaking will help beans cook faster along with leaching out the sugars that can cause intestinal distress.If that's the case, then soak. Just remember to add a good tablespoon of salt to the water.It speeds up cooking by breaking down the beans' skins..Keep in mind you could wind up with old beans (many grocery stores are guilty of selling ones that are past their sell by date). Their meat may not be tender and there could be a bit of a chew to their texture.

One of the great things about beans is that they're incredibly versatile. They can be cooked up in herbs rosemary and thyme broth, or for a more flavorful dish, bay leaf, oregano or sage.Putting a bouquet garni into the pot also will yield up a flavorful dish of beans. What are known as soft herbs such as cilantro, basil , parsley and chives can be used not only for enhancing the dish  but also for adding some color and decoration, Beans and spices are always a good pairing. Think cumin  and coriander.for an Indian vibe. Cinnamon and allspice are out of the box suggestions but they add a kind of smoky sweetness to the dish, To get the spices' full effect, do what Ms. Clark does :toast them in the pot for a few minutes until they release an aroma  before adding the beans and water.Of course, the best seasonings are the aromatics. Cooking with  celery or  carrots along with any of the members of the onion family such as garlic leeks and shallots to create a savory broth . Ginger gives beans a fiery kick , perfect for a cold night,Most people love adding a huge chunk of ham or bacon to any bean dish, but especially to Boston baked beans,Usually beans are served over rice but feel free to try them poured over polenta or faro.


This is bean season. Pick out whatever one looks appealing ad get creative with spices and ideas. The end result is a tasty filling dish that will warm you on a cold winter's night.

Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Fortfying The Pantry

This blog was under attack today ,thanks to an opinion piece that I had published in today's The Guardian online. To be honest. I thought I had been doing a relatively good job writing about recipes and food trends for the last eight years.However there were several horrifically mean people who have nothing better to do than rip my blog to shreds.

Unfortunately anyone is shark bait to the online haters.  ,I thought Foodie Pantry was immune because there's only a small cadre of readers. There was never any flak  or criticism. I felt comfortable writing whatever I wanted.Readers seemed happy with my various recipes, from my family's zuppa pane pesto soup to French bread pudding,Public relations people thought my articles on their clients ' books and products were spot on. One  company, San-J, even printed out my review of their gluten free soy sauce, framed it and hung it in their lobby.Then there my entries  saluting our troops and remembering them with gift certificates to their favorite restaurants along with the entries dealing with food pantries and community gardens helping inner cities. Luckily the sludge didn't attack those. I did fight back . I had too and any blogger would do the same in similar circumstances.. When the haters start hating, then it's time to roast them like pigs - slow and with a searing heat that makes their flesh fall off the bone.(except the pig flesh is a lot tastier and much much cleaner than theirs)

This experience was an eye opener. however I am not changing my style, or blog for these holes. I like Foodie Pantry  the way it is. This is advice for any of those neophyte food bloggers out there. Write the way you want, not what people dictate. Never read the very hateful and caustic remarks. These are made by people who are jealous of you, the ones who have absolutely no talent and are complete nothings in the real world.Commenting is the only way to draw attention to themselves. If they were talented , they would have their own blogs and not spending their time criticizing yours. Another must, grow a thicker skin. Most of what people write on the web is just envious rantings Ignore them. If you want constructive criticism, go to family and friends. They know you and how you write.They're the best sounding boards for entry ideas and plans.  Some blogs have pictures of the authors, some don't. I never did because I want my privacy. I was even criticized for that today. There's nothing wrong with privacy  and people have to respect your wish for it.

I am proud of this blog,proud of what I've achieved with it and what it's done for cookbook writers, new foods and inventors. No one puts an ax to my pantry. I'll put an ax to their heads long before that.

Monday, January 11, 2016

A Hearty Winter Casserole

Winter meals mean hearty meals.There's nothing like a rich , layered  dish that's filling and tasty like a homemade casserole The best part is that they can be varied with ingredients so any one that's made is both unique and delicious. One could have cheese and bacon in it, while another can be made strictly vegan.

Many novice  home chefs balk at the thought of casseroles. They feel that the dish may be too complicated or too labor intensive.As with any dish start off with the easiest..Tuna casserole, despite all the cliches about it, is an easy bake and one the whole family can love.It is basically three or four  cups of cooked elbow macaroni  layered with one can of drained tuna(use the one with water, not olive oil). Cream of chicken soup and shredded cheddar cheese top it . If you want crunch add an layer of French fried onions on top. Classic baked mac and cheese is another simple dish that can be varied,Many people love a layer of crisp bacon on top or have the cheese and pasta layered with sliced ham. You can also use different cheeses mixed together like Cheddar and American. Toppings can be breadcrumbs or the more crunchier panko crumbs.Vegetarians can appreciate the easy as pie squash one. This is cooked yellow squash layered with layered Gruyere cheese and a thick mayo and Ritz cracker kind of sauce. It's then topped of with more crushed  Ritz cracker crumbs and baked until golden>if you want to make it completely vegan, then use soy cheese  in flavors like  Cheddar or American and sub in Nayonaise an non egg vegetarian mayo substitute.

Once home chefs have conquered the easier casserole recipes, it's time to move onto to the more complicated. The Italian classic , lasagna is always a favorite for all ages It can be made with beef or chicken along with pork for a really ric  flavor.Veggies such as eggplant and peppers can be subbed in for a meatless one while uncooked or precooked lasagna noodles can be used, Definitely add in mozzarella for some gooey cheesiness. Casseroles can be fun like a hamburger potato one, enhanced with Cheddar and cream of mushroom soup. It's like a cheeseburger without the bun, with every bite containing juicy beef and creamy cheese,There's also a chiles rellenos one, perfect for those who love Mexican food, This is a layering of green chile peppers along with a tasty mix of Monterey and Cheddar cheeses along with a custard made from eggs, milk and flour . Tomato sauce zings it up wit  more flavor and color.As much as turkey tetrazzini is considered a cliche, it's actually a really delicious dish made with buttery spaghetti in a thick chicken broth based roux . Crispy Parmesan cheese tops it. You can add peas, but also try broccoli florets for some variety.One of the best thing about any casserole is that it makes great leftovers, that is if there is anything left.

Nothing beats a hearty dish like a casserole on a cold winter's night. Make one that will stick to your family's ribs and keep them warm and cozy. They're fun, they're easy and best of  any one made is a truly delicious one.

Saturday, January 9, 2016

Roll With It

One of the best parts of winter is staying indoors on a snowy day and baking. Even better baking rolls and buns. They're a nice departure from the usual snowy day baking line up along with challenging skills. Another good thing about rolls and buns, they're perfect for any meal or snack.

Many novice home bakers may balk at using yeast dough. They feel that it's unreliable and can ruin a recipe. The key to that is proofing for usually half an hour. It's all about letting the dough rise. This produces fluffy  light rolls or loaves when they 're baked. Rolls are easy to make and have a simple recipe. It is usually is margarine, white sugar , eggs yeast and refined white flour. Baking time is between thirty and forty minutes. For a healthier bread try whole wheat,Some recipes would be  bit richer because whole wheat rolls usually have milk and butter included.Add some variety by sprinkling on sesame seeds or poppy seeds. This is done right before you put the tin into the oven. Brush tops with melted butter and then sprinkled on the seeds.More experienced bakers can try their hand at brioches, those buttery, heavenly French rolls. It's an involved recipe that has four eggs and a cup(!) of unsalted butter.There's also half a cup of milk to to add to the roll's richness.It's a double rise meaning that the dough is let proofed once after kneading. An hour later the process is repeated and then the dough is put into those special tins.Then there is the "head",a ball of  dough which is put on in  a certain way.Then there is a third proofing that lasts an hour, along with a preliminary egg wash to get that golden glaze before baking.

Most people love homemade buns. especially the cinnamon ones, thanks to Cinnabon. Those instant ones are good in a pinch however you can easily make your own, tasting exactly like the ones at the mall.The dough has a tangy richness thanks to the addition of buttermilk.along with the seven tablespoons of butter. Of course it is the filling and melt in your mouth icing that makes these treats sing and shine. The filling is a mix of cinnamon and brown sugar along with corn starch and again half a cup of butter (Cinnabon sells the cinnamon if you want to use theirs). The icing is made with cream cheese along with more butter- a mere quarter of a cup this time- and lemon juice. It's an elaborate bake with many steps however the end result is definitely worth it.A regular bun recipe is , of,course much simpler ,similar to the roll one. It just has more sugar, namely anywhere between one third to one half cup sugar. Try currant buns for a different twist. This is a big British favorite, appearing often at teas.Currants are basically dried red seedless grapes, a bit different from raisins. They  can also be made with regular raisins or sultanas. a dried white grape. Saffron buns, popular in Sweden on December 12, St. Lucy's day are also yummy.treat.It's a regular bun recipe with a 1/4 teaspoon of saffron added.


A cold snowy day is the perfect one for making rolls and bun. Bake a batch to be served with dinner or just as a snack.They're tasty treats to warm you inside and out.

Friday, January 8, 2016

A Tweak Here, A Tweak There

Sometimes even the most delicious of recipes needs a little oomph.A tweak here , a dollop there can elevate any recipe from tasty to memorable.This is what makes a good cook, whether in a restaurant kitchen or in a home one.

This is my mantra.If I can make a recipe better,I will. Dishes and meals should not only be filling and nutritious but extraordinary . Even simple breakfast dishes can be turned into ambrosia with a tweak. Takes eggs for example. Even the simplest dish involving them can be boosted up by a dash of tarragon. Add this versatile herb to scrambled eggs for a nice brunch main dish. It can work wonders in an omelet au fine herbes. too.One of the best tweaks is adding club soda to beaten egg before scrambling. This results in the lightest, fluffiest scramble ever.I've also added whole cream to eggs which resulted in a more dense, custardy but insanely delicious dish. A cup of chopped ham also added oomph too.Waffle and pancake batters can also benefit from tweaks. Add a healthy dose of nutmeg or cinnamon  for a spicier , earthier flavor. Almonds and pecans are another great add in, giving both crunch and texture. Syrups can  be made special too. Add a squeeze of orange juice or  for a different spin. Drop in some blueberries and strawberries right before serving for color and flavor.

Lunch and dinner recipes always benefit from a tweak. Everybody loves a grilled cheese however make it like a croque Monsieur for a truly memorable meal. Instead of baking it in an oven or broiling it, fry it in butter . I do my own spin on it by buttering the inside, subbing in Gruyere along with a layer of sliced ham. The traditional recipe claims that  bread should be dipped in a flour and egg mixture before assembling but I feel this takes away from the crunch and flavor. Another favorite to tweak is the savory Italian bread pudding.The recipe has been in my family for decades. It's a flavorful layering of Italian or french bread,and Swiss cheese , baked or steamed with a good helping of beef broth. The last has been replaced by vegetable broth to be more vegan. Cabbage is added for crunch and color. Now I've been experimenting with aged Swiss will will give this usually mellow dish bite. Homemade Italian sauce is always deserving of a little twist. With mine , there comes a generous amount of oregano and vegan Iitalian sausage. The last is loaded with peppers so it gives the sauce a great zing.I love it on refried polenta but it can be perfect gracing rotelli too.

Tweaking here and there is perfectly fine.It add zings to everyday recipes, giving them pizzazz and zing. Go  off the beaten path and revamp that family or favorite recipe.

Thursday, January 7, 2016

Skillet Chicken Redone

Any skillet dish can be a boring one, especially if it involves chicken. Yet suppose it was livened up with tomatoes and crispy pancetta.It would turn from a snoozefest to a lively celebration. It can be done - and easily too. A novice home chef can even have fun with this.

It was the subject of Melissa Clark's  A Good Appetite column in yesterday's New York Times Food section.She takes's a beginner's dish and elevates it to something quite special. skillet chicken is simply taking cut up chicken brown it in  wide skillet, add a splash of water or chicken broth and then finish it in the oven for a nice golden brown look.For variation, sometimes a dash of white wine is added or rosemary.sometimes American cheese  or Velveeta is added, A few recipes call for Campbell's mushroom soup. However these tend to detract  from the chicken however a simple recipe may beg for more flavor. - and that doesn't mean more broth a a discreet pat of butter added.

Ms Clark turns on the flavor,There is pancetta that is crisped in the pan before the chicken. the chicken is cooked in the rendered fat giving it much more taste. after that's been thoroughly browned save the pan along with the combined fats from the chicken and pancetta for plum tomatoes, garlic and pepper flakes. The wild card addition is anchovies which gives it depth.The final touch in this pizza like dish, balls of mozzarella , known as bocconcini. Grated mozzarella can be used  instead to create a more blankety covering for the chicken. If anchovies aren't your thing, Ms.Clark suggests olives or capers for  saltiness and richness. Swap onion for garlic for sweetness along with rosemary for basil.Also sub in all legs or breasts  if you want. Wing lovers should just go for wings along with making it all dark or all white meat. I would serve this with a huge crusty loaf of Italian bread too to sop up everything.

Skillet chicken need not be boring.Add some tomatoes, mozzarella and pancetta, along with garlic and anchovies for an exciting dish. It's a different spin on a classic dish,