It's that time of the year when lists come out and the New York Times Food section is no different. Today's issue is no different. The best recipes, drinks and restaurants are listed along with the hottest food terms of the year. It's an interesting look at how treats and toddies influenced the year that was.
What are the top recipes of the year? Ones that I would certainly like to try, There is roasted chicken provencal, a melange of thighs and wings roasted with shallots, lemons and garlic in a vermouth bath infused with herbes de Provence,Chicken is also top again, this time with an Mediterranean flavor.,oven roasted chicken sharwanaIt 's an easy fix of piling the sliced meat onto a platter and decorate with salad and topping. It's a fun light New Year's dish after heavy holiday feasting..It's tahini gracing chopped cucumbers and tomatoes along with parsley, olives and feta. Fried eggplant also adds flavor along with hummus swirled with harissa. Pile it on pita for a sandwich/salad mash up. Summer pasta with zucchini,ricotta and pasta was also popular.It's just a simple dish that you could even make now using frozen squash.There's also another refreshingly simple dish - salmon with anchovy garlic butter. Capers are also added for a zesty saltiness but it's really the anchovy butter that makes it sing.Three cup chicken , a famed Taiwanese braise of thighs and wings in a dark and pungent sauce.Some of the other recipes were a quick fresh tomato sauce and the only dessert to make it was summer berry buckle.
What drinks made the list?Auslese.It a German riesling made from very ripe grapes and oomphed up with Botrytis cinerea. Sherry ,an old fashioned classic has also cracked the list.As per the Pour column writer, Eric Asimiv, it has an almost oceanic taste thanks to the note of saline and iodine. He also praises the moderately priced wines such as the 2014 Mojo cabernet franc from Shinn Estate, a famed Long Island producer. The Southern Rhone gives the tasty blend of grenache, syrah and mourvedre. Another favorite was the 2013 trocken riesling fermented from grapes grown on limestone..The stone was reflected in the notes,stony, chalky and floral. Try these at the city's top restaurants.There's Gabriel Kreuther, named for the chef., is an homage to all dishes Alsacian, with its'rustic tarte flambees and liverwurst. Superiority Burger, the make is a kind of a misnomer, is another yummy fave catering to vegans and vegetarians. Fans rave about the tofu Philly cheesesteak along with a sugary white sweet potato topped with chopped pickles, serranos and tarragon. Of course Momofuko Ko is right up there; New Yorkers love their boxed sushi and uni or sea urchin with chicken. Mexican food is also number one with Manhattanites as seen in Cosme.with real Mexican tortillas along with celebrations of traditional dishes.
These are the lists to guide you to good eating and dining along with good drinking. It's a nice culinary salute to 2015. It's was an interesting year, flavorful and tasty in so many ways.
Wednesday, December 16, 2015
Tuesday, December 15, 2015
Your Choice Of Holiday Sides
One of the treats of the holiday table is the vast array of sides. From jewel toned cranberry jelly to home bowls of stuffing, holiday feasters can enjoy a wide range of flavors and textures,Best of all most holiday roasts can go with a wide variety of sides.These could be healthy or decadent, yet all delicious.
Sweet sides work well with poultry and pork. Cranberry jelly or chutney goes well with both turkey and capons. For more adventurous home chefs. you can make your own cranberry jelly.This is an easy mix of fresh cranberries cranberry juice, lemon and maple syrup (!) first cooked over a high heat and then a lower one for only ten minutes or until the mixtures thickens into a jelly. Chutneys also work with fowl and they can be ladled over the meat too for added flavor. Try an apple mango one with a melange of cubed Gala apples and mangoes ,blended with dried apricots and spiced up with mustard, cloves and black pepper. Pork and hams always benefit with the addition of sweet sides. Grilled , unadorned pineapple rings work with both these meats. You can add a very small sprinkling of sea salt to give it a boost of savory. Apples are another excellent accompaniment. You can try homemade applesauce to go with a pork loin roast or better yet , a warm apple and onion salad with the addition of freshly fried bacon and a tablespoon of brown sugar. Apples can be sliced into a stir fry, cooked with kale, cabbage and Brussels sprouts. Add some apple cider vinegar for tartness and walnuts or pine nuts for crunch. Sweet potatoes are the ultimate sweet side. Instead of layering them with marshmallows, turn them into tasty fries for the kids or a creamy , buttery mash with a drizzle of maple syrup on top.
There are many savory sides to try as well. Stuffing is always in demand, especially if you have turkey. Make it interesting by using nothing but pretzels for a tastier side. Eggs and sour cream bind together three cups of pretzel sticks that have been soaked soft in hot water. Onion powder is then added to the mix for more flavor. You can also make it in the traditional stuffing way, with sage and onion being first cooked with celery and then adding in the pretzels. Mind , this has to be cooked on it's own and not in the bird. Another fun side is Yorkshire pudding, perfect with any roast beef or London Broil. It's an easy recipe.It's four eggs, and equal amounts of milk and flour. What makes these tasty popovers sing are the meat drippings. mixed into the batter. They're wonderful, loaded with roast beef slices and gravy. For something a bit more healthier, try the classic string beans almondine.You can use fresh if you can find them or frozen green beans along with almonds browned in butter or margarine. Brussels sprouts are another emerald gem, perfect for the holiday table. Simmer in hot salted water until tender but firm. Drain and then dress with melted butter and a liberal sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Of course no meal would be complete without potatoes. You could have them in a mash but enrich it by adding sour cream and chives or the skins for added nutrients. Scalloped ones are a supremely elegant addition to any dinner or holiday lunch.its just taking sliced potatoes and baking them in a creamy roux.
Sweet and savory sides will add oomph to any holiday meal. They're good ,complementing the main roast or just wonderful on their own. Make one or make them all for a special treat.
Sweet sides work well with poultry and pork. Cranberry jelly or chutney goes well with both turkey and capons. For more adventurous home chefs. you can make your own cranberry jelly.This is an easy mix of fresh cranberries cranberry juice, lemon and maple syrup (!) first cooked over a high heat and then a lower one for only ten minutes or until the mixtures thickens into a jelly. Chutneys also work with fowl and they can be ladled over the meat too for added flavor. Try an apple mango one with a melange of cubed Gala apples and mangoes ,blended with dried apricots and spiced up with mustard, cloves and black pepper. Pork and hams always benefit with the addition of sweet sides. Grilled , unadorned pineapple rings work with both these meats. You can add a very small sprinkling of sea salt to give it a boost of savory. Apples are another excellent accompaniment. You can try homemade applesauce to go with a pork loin roast or better yet , a warm apple and onion salad with the addition of freshly fried bacon and a tablespoon of brown sugar. Apples can be sliced into a stir fry, cooked with kale, cabbage and Brussels sprouts. Add some apple cider vinegar for tartness and walnuts or pine nuts for crunch. Sweet potatoes are the ultimate sweet side. Instead of layering them with marshmallows, turn them into tasty fries for the kids or a creamy , buttery mash with a drizzle of maple syrup on top.
There are many savory sides to try as well. Stuffing is always in demand, especially if you have turkey. Make it interesting by using nothing but pretzels for a tastier side. Eggs and sour cream bind together three cups of pretzel sticks that have been soaked soft in hot water. Onion powder is then added to the mix for more flavor. You can also make it in the traditional stuffing way, with sage and onion being first cooked with celery and then adding in the pretzels. Mind , this has to be cooked on it's own and not in the bird. Another fun side is Yorkshire pudding, perfect with any roast beef or London Broil. It's an easy recipe.It's four eggs, and equal amounts of milk and flour. What makes these tasty popovers sing are the meat drippings. mixed into the batter. They're wonderful, loaded with roast beef slices and gravy. For something a bit more healthier, try the classic string beans almondine.You can use fresh if you can find them or frozen green beans along with almonds browned in butter or margarine. Brussels sprouts are another emerald gem, perfect for the holiday table. Simmer in hot salted water until tender but firm. Drain and then dress with melted butter and a liberal sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Of course no meal would be complete without potatoes. You could have them in a mash but enrich it by adding sour cream and chives or the skins for added nutrients. Scalloped ones are a supremely elegant addition to any dinner or holiday lunch.its just taking sliced potatoes and baking them in a creamy roux.
Sweet and savory sides will add oomph to any holiday meal. They're good ,complementing the main roast or just wonderful on their own. Make one or make them all for a special treat.
Monday, December 14, 2015
Your Holiday Roast Your Way
With Christmas and New Year's only weeks away , its' time to think of the the man dish, the roast..Many home chefs freak out at the idea of it. There;s so much prep, and pressure to cook it correctly and give family and guests , moist juicy slices. The best way of dealing with this is picking a roast that fits the skill level. That way there's a delicious roast, with little or no mistakes.
Neophyte home chefs should look into roast chicken for their first holiday meal. It's the simplest meat to roast and the finished product is always a good one.It only takes an hour to make and prep time is almost nil. You can just rub it with butter, salt and pepper and then pop it into the oven. Herbs such as rosemary and thyme accentuates the flavor even more and you can also add a squeeze of fresh lemon or orange juice before adding the seasoning. If you're having more than five you could get two chickens or better yet a capon or gelded rooster.An eight pound one does take two hours to cook and there is some basting required. Yet it's not that difficult and a first time roaster can do it.Fish is another easy roast. Go for a bronzino or a trout, s slim fish that cooks up easily. It can be seasoned with ginger, garlic and Asian sesame oil for an Oriental flavor, Give it a Mediterranean flair with chopped parsley, and red peppers along with salted capers and garlic. Bring the Caribbean to the holiday table by giving the fish a paste bath of ginger, garlic clove and allspice.Roasting time is only thirty minutes so there's no worry about it drying out or constant basting.
Intermediate home chefs may want to try leg of lamb for their Christmas or New Year's dinner.Again it's an easy roast of only thirty minutes. Most cooks usually make it with a rub of garlic and rosemary. There's even a thin gravy of red wine, diced onions and chicken stock liberally laced with rosemary, chives and parsley.It can also be made Greek style with lemons and oregano. It should be bone in roast so you can get that extra taste/ If you want a more well done meat then roast for another half an hour or hour more.Roast beef or London broil is another good main dish for intermediate chefs to make.It's an easy seasoning of just salt and pepper, and olive oil. Small slits are made throughout the meat for garlic cloves. Roasting takes two to three hours. The meat is cooked in a very hot oven at 375 degrees F for the first half hour to brown it, then at a lower 225 degrees F for the last ninety minutes.This gives you enough time to make the sides and gravy too.Intermediate and experienced chefs may want to try something grander for Christmas dinner such as turkey.It's an elegant way to celebrate even though it can be a bit of work. Home chefs should roast the bird breast side down for a moister meat.It should be roasted on a bed of layered celery for a more delicious and flavorful gravy. Butter should be rubbed all over the outside for tender meat.It should be basted every so often. This makes the skin cracklier and crispier and then it should be tented with aluminum foil.The bigger the turkey the more times it needs to cook. A small eight to twelve pound bird takes three hour, one double the size at sixteen pounds takes a whopping six to six and a half hours to thoroughly cook.
Don't freak out at making the holiday roast. Pick the one that fits your experience level and run with it. You'll come out with a memorable and delicious Christmas or New Year's dinner that will be perfect.
Neophyte home chefs should look into roast chicken for their first holiday meal. It's the simplest meat to roast and the finished product is always a good one.It only takes an hour to make and prep time is almost nil. You can just rub it with butter, salt and pepper and then pop it into the oven. Herbs such as rosemary and thyme accentuates the flavor even more and you can also add a squeeze of fresh lemon or orange juice before adding the seasoning. If you're having more than five you could get two chickens or better yet a capon or gelded rooster.An eight pound one does take two hours to cook and there is some basting required. Yet it's not that difficult and a first time roaster can do it.Fish is another easy roast. Go for a bronzino or a trout, s slim fish that cooks up easily. It can be seasoned with ginger, garlic and Asian sesame oil for an Oriental flavor, Give it a Mediterranean flair with chopped parsley, and red peppers along with salted capers and garlic. Bring the Caribbean to the holiday table by giving the fish a paste bath of ginger, garlic clove and allspice.Roasting time is only thirty minutes so there's no worry about it drying out or constant basting.
Intermediate home chefs may want to try leg of lamb for their Christmas or New Year's dinner.Again it's an easy roast of only thirty minutes. Most cooks usually make it with a rub of garlic and rosemary. There's even a thin gravy of red wine, diced onions and chicken stock liberally laced with rosemary, chives and parsley.It can also be made Greek style with lemons and oregano. It should be bone in roast so you can get that extra taste/ If you want a more well done meat then roast for another half an hour or hour more.Roast beef or London broil is another good main dish for intermediate chefs to make.It's an easy seasoning of just salt and pepper, and olive oil. Small slits are made throughout the meat for garlic cloves. Roasting takes two to three hours. The meat is cooked in a very hot oven at 375 degrees F for the first half hour to brown it, then at a lower 225 degrees F for the last ninety minutes.This gives you enough time to make the sides and gravy too.Intermediate and experienced chefs may want to try something grander for Christmas dinner such as turkey.It's an elegant way to celebrate even though it can be a bit of work. Home chefs should roast the bird breast side down for a moister meat.It should be roasted on a bed of layered celery for a more delicious and flavorful gravy. Butter should be rubbed all over the outside for tender meat.It should be basted every so often. This makes the skin cracklier and crispier and then it should be tented with aluminum foil.The bigger the turkey the more times it needs to cook. A small eight to twelve pound bird takes three hour, one double the size at sixteen pounds takes a whopping six to six and a half hours to thoroughly cook.
Don't freak out at making the holiday roast. Pick the one that fits your experience level and run with it. You'll come out with a memorable and delicious Christmas or New Year's dinner that will be perfect.
Saturday, December 12, 2015
Griling in December
The temps should be frosty with Jack Frost nipping at our noses and chestnuts roasting on an open fire.Thanks to global warming however, we can still grill two weeks before Christmas. Take advantage of these warm days and make use of the grill. T'is the season - to get the dogs and burgers out and roast them on an open fire.
Before you star grilling, take time to get everything ready. Utensils and charcoal may be have been put away around Labor Day or at the very last early October. Make sure you have enough briquettes for cooking, because it's the rare grocery store that sells them now, If you don't have any, don;t despair. Use twigs,preferably from fruit woods such as apple, cherry or plum. You can also use oak or chestnut twigs too. Avoid silver maple and birch, because the twigs flame up in a second and become too hot too fast.Even though it's probably been only two months since you last used your grill, check all lines and tanks. Make sure everything is working properly or you could wind up with a disaster on your hands. Thoroughly scrub the grill to make sure the last of the summer meats is gone. Also make sure you you have all your utensils, from roasting prongs to tongs ready. Word of warning, if it's too windy, think about holding off barbecuing, The gusts could cause an up draft that will spell danger (and possibly singed eyebrows to say the least) You can grill on a slightly breezy day, Just keep a safe distance from the house.
Winter meats can work on any grill. Think about roasting duck sausage for cassoulet.It'll give it a nice woodsy smoky flavor that will add to the stew..You can also cook other sausages too, such as beef and pork, These would be a nice side dish with spaghetti or angel hair pasta, giving the dish an earthier taste.Chicken is usually considered a summer dish but you can still grill one, using the spatchcock method for thorough roasting. Turkey, the bird of the moment , can be grilled, even without using the butterfly or spatchcock method. It's just letting the bird sit for an hour to thaw out and then tie the cavity closed , evenly spread out the coals before roasting. It'll make for even cooking. Use a roasting pan and center it on the grate. Remember to keep adding briquettes as the bord cooks. Have a meat thermometer at the ready. The bird's temperature should be cooked at 165 degrees Farenheit.. The entire process should take two to three hours or each pound takes ten minutes for cooking. Try the winter meats - pork and beef. Take advantage of this warm weather, to roast up a pork loin.It's an easy prep . Season with garlic powder, salt and pepper, and then placed on a lightly oiled grill. Cook over indirect heat for only thirty minutes. The internal temperature should read 145 degrees Farenheit. This is also the perfect time to grill a London Broil.It's is a quick grill with the meat cooking up only seven to ten minutes on each side.
Take advantage of the warm weather and grill.It's a nice way of cooking summer faves and satisfying those cravings. Roast up your favorite meat and enjoy!
Before you star grilling, take time to get everything ready. Utensils and charcoal may be have been put away around Labor Day or at the very last early October. Make sure you have enough briquettes for cooking, because it's the rare grocery store that sells them now, If you don't have any, don;t despair. Use twigs,preferably from fruit woods such as apple, cherry or plum. You can also use oak or chestnut twigs too. Avoid silver maple and birch, because the twigs flame up in a second and become too hot too fast.Even though it's probably been only two months since you last used your grill, check all lines and tanks. Make sure everything is working properly or you could wind up with a disaster on your hands. Thoroughly scrub the grill to make sure the last of the summer meats is gone. Also make sure you you have all your utensils, from roasting prongs to tongs ready. Word of warning, if it's too windy, think about holding off barbecuing, The gusts could cause an up draft that will spell danger (and possibly singed eyebrows to say the least) You can grill on a slightly breezy day, Just keep a safe distance from the house.
Winter meats can work on any grill. Think about roasting duck sausage for cassoulet.It'll give it a nice woodsy smoky flavor that will add to the stew..You can also cook other sausages too, such as beef and pork, These would be a nice side dish with spaghetti or angel hair pasta, giving the dish an earthier taste.Chicken is usually considered a summer dish but you can still grill one, using the spatchcock method for thorough roasting. Turkey, the bird of the moment , can be grilled, even without using the butterfly or spatchcock method. It's just letting the bird sit for an hour to thaw out and then tie the cavity closed , evenly spread out the coals before roasting. It'll make for even cooking. Use a roasting pan and center it on the grate. Remember to keep adding briquettes as the bord cooks. Have a meat thermometer at the ready. The bird's temperature should be cooked at 165 degrees Farenheit.. The entire process should take two to three hours or each pound takes ten minutes for cooking. Try the winter meats - pork and beef. Take advantage of this warm weather, to roast up a pork loin.It's an easy prep . Season with garlic powder, salt and pepper, and then placed on a lightly oiled grill. Cook over indirect heat for only thirty minutes. The internal temperature should read 145 degrees Farenheit. This is also the perfect time to grill a London Broil.It's is a quick grill with the meat cooking up only seven to ten minutes on each side.
Take advantage of the warm weather and grill.It's a nice way of cooking summer faves and satisfying those cravings. Roast up your favorite meat and enjoy!
Friday, December 11, 2015
Holiday Breads
One of the best treats of the holiday is a home baked bread or a tray of rolls.There are so many to choose from, from panettones to cinnamon rolls. They're a bit more work than the average bread or Christmas bake but so worth the work. They provide a tasty breakfast when opening presents or a nice snack before bedtime,
Panettone is one of Northern Italy's greatest holiday gifts. It is a yeast bread that will take forty-five minutes to completely bake,The traditional ones have a healthy mix of raisins and citron but you can also add cut dried apricots , pineapple and cranberries. Some home bakers add dark chocolate chips too for more flavor.Another favorite is the Veronese bread pan d'oro or golden bread.. It's egg and butter rich , and like it's fancier cousin they need starters. This is similar to sourdough stater and can be either liquid or powder. Pan d'oro requires three different kinds of dough along with cocoa butter to give the crumb airiness.It's a very eggy one, requiring five large eggs to give it that rich, golden color.it also requires overnight proofing and special molds to give it that "tall star" look. An easier recipe is pan dolce. It's a simpler version of panettone but there's also a dash of Sherry added along with anise and orange flower water., Like fruit breads, raisins and currents are added , but also pistachios and pine nuts for added savoriness and crunch,Across the Alps comes stollen, the German holiday bread.It's a yeast bread that uses honey instead of sugar. Raisins and citron are added after they're soaked in rum..Almonds and mace spice the dough while the filling has more spice in the form of cinnamon, sugar and butter.Again it's a dough that has to be proofed but only for a scant thirty minutes this time.
Holiday rolls and buns are always fun. Nothing beats waking up to a batch of hot, gooey cinnamon rolls. Many home bakers balk at the idea of making them from scratch but they're not as labor intensive as many think they are,It's still a yeast recipe that requires proofing. Butter and egg are added to a simple yeast dough for richness. The filling is cinnamon (I'd recommend buying Cinnabon's Makara cinnamon for this) .The icing too is easy/ Its a simple milk and powdered sugar one that can have the addition of butter or even coffee to vary the flavor.The Swedes welcome in the holidays with Saint Lucy 's Day and flavorful saffron buns.Despite the savory spice the buns are sweet, thanks to the addition of currents or raisins.. They're known as lussebulle, and are baked in the traditional S shape. This is a bit of a labor intensive recipe for novice bakers but it still can be done to produce yummy tea rolls. The milk and saffron have to be cooked together first and then the yeast is added to it.Cardimon seeds are also used for more spice. The dough may be a bit dense thanks to the addition of sour cream or quark.(a Northern European version of cottage cheese). A simpler bun recipe is the British Chelsea bun, made similar to a cinnamon bun but with a filling of currents , raisins or apricots . They're sort of like the Pennsylvania Dutch sticky bun, much beloved in South Jersey (strange , I know but the recipe is popular in Atlantic and Cape May Counties)The Chelsea bun dough only takes an hour to rise and then it's kneaded again and then baked. A simple glaze is then poured over the buns.
Holiday breads and rolls are not only fun to eat but a fun challenge to bake. The result is a yeasty, sweet treat, perfect for the holidays. Slather on a big gob of butter and enjoy.
Panettone is one of Northern Italy's greatest holiday gifts. It is a yeast bread that will take forty-five minutes to completely bake,The traditional ones have a healthy mix of raisins and citron but you can also add cut dried apricots , pineapple and cranberries. Some home bakers add dark chocolate chips too for more flavor.Another favorite is the Veronese bread pan d'oro or golden bread.. It's egg and butter rich , and like it's fancier cousin they need starters. This is similar to sourdough stater and can be either liquid or powder. Pan d'oro requires three different kinds of dough along with cocoa butter to give the crumb airiness.It's a very eggy one, requiring five large eggs to give it that rich, golden color.it also requires overnight proofing and special molds to give it that "tall star" look. An easier recipe is pan dolce. It's a simpler version of panettone but there's also a dash of Sherry added along with anise and orange flower water., Like fruit breads, raisins and currents are added , but also pistachios and pine nuts for added savoriness and crunch,Across the Alps comes stollen, the German holiday bread.It's a yeast bread that uses honey instead of sugar. Raisins and citron are added after they're soaked in rum..Almonds and mace spice the dough while the filling has more spice in the form of cinnamon, sugar and butter.Again it's a dough that has to be proofed but only for a scant thirty minutes this time.
Holiday rolls and buns are always fun. Nothing beats waking up to a batch of hot, gooey cinnamon rolls. Many home bakers balk at the idea of making them from scratch but they're not as labor intensive as many think they are,It's still a yeast recipe that requires proofing. Butter and egg are added to a simple yeast dough for richness. The filling is cinnamon (I'd recommend buying Cinnabon's Makara cinnamon for this) .The icing too is easy/ Its a simple milk and powdered sugar one that can have the addition of butter or even coffee to vary the flavor.The Swedes welcome in the holidays with Saint Lucy 's Day and flavorful saffron buns.Despite the savory spice the buns are sweet, thanks to the addition of currents or raisins.. They're known as lussebulle, and are baked in the traditional S shape. This is a bit of a labor intensive recipe for novice bakers but it still can be done to produce yummy tea rolls. The milk and saffron have to be cooked together first and then the yeast is added to it.Cardimon seeds are also used for more spice. The dough may be a bit dense thanks to the addition of sour cream or quark.(a Northern European version of cottage cheese). A simpler bun recipe is the British Chelsea bun, made similar to a cinnamon bun but with a filling of currents , raisins or apricots . They're sort of like the Pennsylvania Dutch sticky bun, much beloved in South Jersey (strange , I know but the recipe is popular in Atlantic and Cape May Counties)The Chelsea bun dough only takes an hour to rise and then it's kneaded again and then baked. A simple glaze is then poured over the buns.
Holiday breads and rolls are not only fun to eat but a fun challenge to bake. The result is a yeasty, sweet treat, perfect for the holidays. Slather on a big gob of butter and enjoy.
Thursday, December 10, 2015
Chowder And Rice Fritters
Despite the warm weather, it's a great time to make chowder and finish up with fried sweet rice balls. Yesterday's New York Times Food section had two recipes that would be great for the mid December lull and the end of Hanukkah, One is a spicy soup from David Tanis in City Kitchen while Melissa Clark gives us a recipe beloved by Italian Jews in her Good Eats column.
On to the chowder first. David Tanis gives us a spicy meat and potato kind that could work now or on a cool Spring or Summer day,It starts with fish. Mr Tanis used smoked sablefish, a milder tasting fish for the base. Home chefs can use it but can also try any smoked fish such as whitefish, sturgeon, haddock or even eel or mussels.He sweats the onions first, then chorizo and cubed yellow fleshed potatoes (namely Yukon Gold). Leeks are also used to intensify the onion flavor and then the fish is added. Cut it into cubes and add with piquillo peppers. The last is fiery capiscum that adds heat and color to the broth , elevating it from just another seafood chowder to something special. Chopped cilantro is added to the finished product. for more color,giving it that holiday green and red contrast. This could be served at a tree trimming party along with an olive salad . Crusty Spanish bread, pan de horno, drizzled with olive oil would also be a perfect mate to this soup. You could even float toasted slices of it on top of the chowder.. Mr. Tanis recommends an Iberian sherry or even a hearty Madeira to serve with it.
Melissa Clark gives us a variation of latkes that works for both Hanukkah and Christmas parties.They're rice fritters, a kind of arancini riff on the Sicilian savory classic rice ball.The recipe comes from Edda Servi Machlan''s 1992 cookbook "The Classic Cuisine Of Italian Jews" and features the chewier arborio rice than the regular minute kind.. The fritters also have pine nuts and raisins in it as well as a cheese center, similar to arancini. Ms. Clark punches up the raisins by soaking them in a warm brandy bath for twenty minutes.However these also have a hint of savoriness with the addition of thyme leaves and Parmesan cheese.. These rice patties do require more work than the average potato pancake,. A slurry of water and flour has to be made as a paste to hold the rice around the cheese and raisin the after . panko bread crumbs are the coating to give it the rice that nice crunchy crispness. The fritters are then fried in grapeseed oil.followed by a light sprinkle of sea salt. You can eat them straight from the fryer or even nibble on them an hour later.
If you want to liven up the December lull along with the last nights of Hanukkah, then make this chowder and rice fritters. They're an exciting departure from the usual. Try them for some fun eating.
On to the chowder first. David Tanis gives us a spicy meat and potato kind that could work now or on a cool Spring or Summer day,It starts with fish. Mr Tanis used smoked sablefish, a milder tasting fish for the base. Home chefs can use it but can also try any smoked fish such as whitefish, sturgeon, haddock or even eel or mussels.He sweats the onions first, then chorizo and cubed yellow fleshed potatoes (namely Yukon Gold). Leeks are also used to intensify the onion flavor and then the fish is added. Cut it into cubes and add with piquillo peppers. The last is fiery capiscum that adds heat and color to the broth , elevating it from just another seafood chowder to something special. Chopped cilantro is added to the finished product. for more color,giving it that holiday green and red contrast. This could be served at a tree trimming party along with an olive salad . Crusty Spanish bread, pan de horno, drizzled with olive oil would also be a perfect mate to this soup. You could even float toasted slices of it on top of the chowder.. Mr. Tanis recommends an Iberian sherry or even a hearty Madeira to serve with it.
Melissa Clark gives us a variation of latkes that works for both Hanukkah and Christmas parties.They're rice fritters, a kind of arancini riff on the Sicilian savory classic rice ball.The recipe comes from Edda Servi Machlan''s 1992 cookbook "The Classic Cuisine Of Italian Jews" and features the chewier arborio rice than the regular minute kind.. The fritters also have pine nuts and raisins in it as well as a cheese center, similar to arancini. Ms. Clark punches up the raisins by soaking them in a warm brandy bath for twenty minutes.However these also have a hint of savoriness with the addition of thyme leaves and Parmesan cheese.. These rice patties do require more work than the average potato pancake,. A slurry of water and flour has to be made as a paste to hold the rice around the cheese and raisin the after . panko bread crumbs are the coating to give it the rice that nice crunchy crispness. The fritters are then fried in grapeseed oil.followed by a light sprinkle of sea salt. You can eat them straight from the fryer or even nibble on them an hour later.
If you want to liven up the December lull along with the last nights of Hanukkah, then make this chowder and rice fritters. They're an exciting departure from the usual. Try them for some fun eating.
Wednesday, December 9, 2015
Memories From Jacques Pepin
Jacques Pepin is one of the world's greatest chefs. He has contributed so much to the culinary world., giving us classic French recipes along with classic sound advice. As he turns eighty, he reflects on that in a special article in today's Food section of the New York Times, It's insightful and interesting, much like the chef himself
As with his fellow Frenchman, Marcel Proust, Chef Pepin, recounts his food memories, through taste and smell. He even calls to mind that moment when Proust's beloved madeleines bring the author back to his boyhood summers at his aunt's house in Normandy. The combined flavor of them mingled with the tea that they're dipped in, bring to mind, the heat of those summers, the family cook , the garden and finally the entire seaside town of Combray. Such is the sensual power of food. Chef Pepin has the same moments, many of them, in fact as he calls up his earliest culinary memories.He is, after all, a child of a restauranteur, He knows the power of a flavor or aroma. However his first strong memory was not in his mother's eatery but at farm where he stayed during a school vacation. realizing he missed his mere, the farmer let him milk a cow,. The taste of warm, foamy , fresh milk seared into his memory, and forever shaped the way he looked at food.From there he waxes lyrically about his family's dishes, as he writes, our family recipes are what shape us as people. They mold our tastes and define how we cook.It's obvious with Chef Pepin. He recalls his mother's treatment of fresh picked fingerling potatoes(skins that were simply rubbed off by gentle caressing and then sauteed in butter until crisp) and his Aunt Helene's chicken in cream sauce.
His life in America has also shaped his palate as well as his cooking style. Chef Pepin lives in Connecticut but has worked in some of the best kitchens in New York City. His recipes are linked to his local markets, in his town of Madison and the nearby town of Guilford. Eggs from a vibrant Jamaican named Nathalia also are part of the mix..He also credits a farm in Hammonnasset for fresh peas and the Lobster Landing in nearby Clinton CT for lobster. The markets of his native southern France figure large in their influence, especially the ones from Provence such as Arles, Avignon and st. Remy. Seasons are another influence as well. He lovingly recalls the sensations and food that make up the year. Summer is walking in cool grass , picking up mushrooms or along the shore , gathering up tiny fish to be fried.It's picnics with a Gallic twist, lobster, corn, and fried chicken along with lukewarm tomatoes and cooled white wine , celebrated on the Hammonnasset River, Fall is the aroma of baking apple tarts, making cider, and the flavor of Concord grapes and his favorite holiday's Thanksgiving turkey.Winter brings him back to 1959 when he first arrived in New York City and smelled that Manhattan street classic roasted chestnuts.It's also the comforting aromas of bean stews and homemade split pea soup made with ham, along with cheese fondue. There is also fond remembrances of the holidays with oysters and foie gras, chocolate truffles and homemade caramel candies.
Chef Pepin could be considered the Proust of our age. He has such beautiful memories of the foods , flavors and aromas that have shaped his life. Every one should have those fond and warm remembrances.
As with his fellow Frenchman, Marcel Proust, Chef Pepin, recounts his food memories, through taste and smell. He even calls to mind that moment when Proust's beloved madeleines bring the author back to his boyhood summers at his aunt's house in Normandy. The combined flavor of them mingled with the tea that they're dipped in, bring to mind, the heat of those summers, the family cook , the garden and finally the entire seaside town of Combray. Such is the sensual power of food. Chef Pepin has the same moments, many of them, in fact as he calls up his earliest culinary memories.He is, after all, a child of a restauranteur, He knows the power of a flavor or aroma. However his first strong memory was not in his mother's eatery but at farm where he stayed during a school vacation. realizing he missed his mere, the farmer let him milk a cow,. The taste of warm, foamy , fresh milk seared into his memory, and forever shaped the way he looked at food.From there he waxes lyrically about his family's dishes, as he writes, our family recipes are what shape us as people. They mold our tastes and define how we cook.It's obvious with Chef Pepin. He recalls his mother's treatment of fresh picked fingerling potatoes(skins that were simply rubbed off by gentle caressing and then sauteed in butter until crisp) and his Aunt Helene's chicken in cream sauce.
His life in America has also shaped his palate as well as his cooking style. Chef Pepin lives in Connecticut but has worked in some of the best kitchens in New York City. His recipes are linked to his local markets, in his town of Madison and the nearby town of Guilford. Eggs from a vibrant Jamaican named Nathalia also are part of the mix..He also credits a farm in Hammonnasset for fresh peas and the Lobster Landing in nearby Clinton CT for lobster. The markets of his native southern France figure large in their influence, especially the ones from Provence such as Arles, Avignon and st. Remy. Seasons are another influence as well. He lovingly recalls the sensations and food that make up the year. Summer is walking in cool grass , picking up mushrooms or along the shore , gathering up tiny fish to be fried.It's picnics with a Gallic twist, lobster, corn, and fried chicken along with lukewarm tomatoes and cooled white wine , celebrated on the Hammonnasset River, Fall is the aroma of baking apple tarts, making cider, and the flavor of Concord grapes and his favorite holiday's Thanksgiving turkey.Winter brings him back to 1959 when he first arrived in New York City and smelled that Manhattan street classic roasted chestnuts.It's also the comforting aromas of bean stews and homemade split pea soup made with ham, along with cheese fondue. There is also fond remembrances of the holidays with oysters and foie gras, chocolate truffles and homemade caramel candies.
Chef Pepin could be considered the Proust of our age. He has such beautiful memories of the foods , flavors and aromas that have shaped his life. Every one should have those fond and warm remembrances.
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