Wednesday, August 19, 2015

Lucali An A List Pizzeria

In the old days a neighborhood pizzeria usually got good reviews from loyal locals. Nowadays they get on the A -list being the highlight of celebrity tweets. Lucali, a trendy Brooklyn pizzeria is just this but so much more. Like any good city pizza parlor, it produces mouth watering pies.

It was the subject of Alan Richman's interview in today's New York Times Food section. Lucali is the invention of Mark Iacono, a Carroll Gardens native,  who brought business and good food back to his old neighborhood.What is truly unusual is that Chef Iacono has no background , no culinary education or family in the business.it was cooking with his nonna, his grandmother that was the springboard into pizza making and cooking. Another impetus was the pizza he had growing up, with it's paper thin crispy crust with the right amount of  cheese and sauce. It has paid off It's a favorite of Brooklyn boy, Jay-Z and his wife, BeyoncĂ©. They famously blew off the Grammys to share a pie there. David Beckham famously tweeted  about having his most amazing meal there. It has become so popular that CHef Iacono has opened up a branch in Miami and will be opening up another Lucali in L.A..

The restaurant only has pizza and calzones, from the looks of the website. There is the choice of a plain pie and toppings which cost three dollars each.  Chef Iacono offers the usual, basil and the unusual , such as Portobello mushrooms, shallots or artichoke hearts. The calzones have a creamy mozzarella filling with extra sauce  for dipping. Another plus is the atmosphere. Chef  Iacono has made it look like a period piece pizzeria, with  even brass handled candlesticks that would not go amiss in the Masterpiece series "Poldark". The color scheme is not the typical red and white check, but sepia and creamy shades of brown that are reminiscent of tintypes. It's a perfect place for proposals and many a pizza has come out with MARRY ME written on it in mushrooms.The restaurant is where a beloved candy store Louie's was and it was an important part of his childhood. The restaurant was in part named for him and the Iaconos" daughter Kalista.

Good New York  pizza is few and far between. Go to Lucali to taste the best pie, the pizza of rock stars and sports idols.. Try it for a taste of heaven.

Tuesday, August 18, 2015

Cooking Through A Heat Wave

Most of the US is in the middle of a hotter than a fired up grill heat wave. It is summer , after all and the dog days of August to boot. Cooking in a hot kitchen is not always the best. What to do? Keep it light  and easy, both with food and eating.

If you have a grill this is the time to use it but use it  sparingly. One, it's torturous to stand outside in ninety to one hundred degrees , tending to a hot  fiery grill and two, too much of that barbecued stuff is no good for you. If you do have to cook, keep it easy , Dogs, burgers and steak are your best bets. They're a simple cook up  without any hassle or fuss. Make easy sides too. Think a baked potato or grilled onions and tomatoes. For those who don't have grills or don't like the idea of charred meat, then  stick with pasta and rice. These are versatile and you can make all different types for variety. Try a pasta con salsa crudo. This is just taking chopped tomatoes and letting them sit in a bowl with a bit of sea salt and red pepper flakes as you cook the pasta. Mix in when it's done and add some fresh mozzarella or freshly picked basil on top. Rice is another easy fix. You can make a quick lunch or Sunday supper congee with some bouillon cubes and a cup or two of instant rice. It can also be spiced with oregano and red pepper along with sliced ham and stuffed into cored and seeded peppers. Greens like Swiss chard and broccoli rape can be cooked in a flash  in a frying pan. You can serve them with sautĂ©ed chicken breasts or steak for a heartier meal


Salads, any salad , is desirable. Make a tasty chef  salad that will last for two meals. Serve with sun warmed baguettes or Italian bread. Canned tuna is another heat wave must. It can be made into a variety of different dishes. Buy both the oil and water based ones to expand your food base. Tonno en olio makes a simple but truly satisfying supper when paired with just French bread. Add tomatoes for  a taste of Provence.. Plain tuna can be mixed with mayo , diced celery and onion for a tuna salad that is perfect for lunch time sandwiches. If you want to go  up scale then think crab. Like tuna you can make wonderful salads with it.  Hard boiled eggs are another plus during these hellish times. They cook up in three minutes and can be added to any salad or just eaten plain with a little sprinkle of salt. Egg salad is another friend to a home chef. It's an excellent filling for sandwiches but also for hollowed out tomatoes too. If you're stuck entertaining, don't worry. There are some elegant and easy dishes to make for company. Cold poached salmon is a great dish .It takes, at most ten minutes or less to cook up .Serve with sour cream and onion sauce  for color and more flavor. Another chic idea is serving paper thin prosciutto slices  with melon along with a chilled Prosecco wine.

It's a heat wave,for sure. It's time to chill , especially in the kitchen. Take it easy , cook light and simple. Eat light and simple too during these hot summer days.

Monday, August 17, 2015

The Graze Craze

Snacks delivered to your doorstep? That's every foodie's dream and it can become a reality. A new company called Graze is sending goodness and good munchies. It's not only a neat spin on snacking, it's a healthier way of eating.

The company  was started by a group of seven friends who were tired of eating the usual chips and dips. They wanted variety but variety with nutrition. The groups came up with healthy snacks, thanks to their taster Eleanor (no last name is mentioned) who creates the large array of both sweet and savory noshes.The ingredients are artisanal, with small family bakeries and fruit producers contributing.Graze tries to go for the unusual and best tasting. It also has classic flavored snacks such as the Boston cream pie sweet snack mix and a sesame garlic crunch.Surpriingly  enough they also have broths like the Vietnamese pho for a quick hot mini meal. A Graze box can contain anywhere from four to eight small packs .It's a small box with  small fistfuls of crunchies that costs $11.99 per month. They also have a sharing box too which are twenty bags you can give out to family and friends.

How does the Graze snacks taste? Interesting. My box had New York Everything Bagel, Iced Cinnamon Bun, Vitamin E Defense and Pizza Margherita. My favorite was the New York Everything Bagel. These were crunchy poppy seed onion sticks, that tasted more like flavored Melba toast than bagels.The Iced Cinnamon Bun took some getting used to. Imagine a Ciinabon deconstructed and then reimagined as a healthy snack.Cinnamon honey almonds are mixed with yogurt covered sunflower seeds and vanilla cookie drops. They have to be eaten together to get the whole effect. There was one super healthy snack of hazelnuts, raisins peanuts and  dried cranberries which is a pretty tasty snack that would work on any picnic. I also liked the Pizza Margherita which has basil infused Melba toast bites and mini tomato breadsticks. What was a detractor were the cheese cashews.I would have put cheese nibbles instead of the nuts which really don't belong in a pizza mix.

Graze is a foodie's dream come true and delivered to the front door. There's an interesting array of snacks , both sweet and savory to try.It's different than the usual chips and pretzels , for sure.

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Refrigerator Roulette

It's the weekend.It's too hot to go to the store to shop, yet you have to have some kind of lunch or supper for yourself and the family. What to do? Play roulette - refrigerator or pantry. There are ingredients there for something.- that's up to your creativity.

Every home chef should have pasta and rice in their arsenal. These are great as any base. Spaghetti and angel hair pasta can be turned into pasta con burro,  a light dish that is packed with flavor. Sub in garlic and olive oil for the butter  and make aglia e olio, another simple dinner that can be amped up with grilled chicken or salmon if you have them.Rice and beans are a staple in most kitchens. This is easy to make and  again, you can add to it. Try chicken or ground beef to give it more weight. Throw in a can of tomato paste and sauce  along with a dash of chili powder for a quickly made chili. Even without the spices it' still good. Rice can also be the base for a curry too.( remember that the spice rack is your friend here too ). An easy one can be made just by using the two ingredients. If you want throw in any veggies  found in the fridge or freezer , go ahead. Peas  and potatoes can also be tossed in too for more flavor.

Suppose the fridge holds only dribs or drabs or just cartons of leftovers?  Use them. Leftover cheese , flour, and a little milk can be melted down into a sauce Add some chicken or veggie broth and you have a soup.Sliced cheese, ham  and bread can be repurposed  into a yummy Croque Monsieur, that tasty French bistro sandwich.If you just have cold cuts, then think an Italian hero or better yet , a chef salad. Mix some mayo and ketchup together with oil and vinegar for a homemade French dressing. to pour over it. Tuna fish is another versatile player in refrigerator roulette. Mix it with mayo and chopped celery for a stuffing for tomatoes or make a lovely salad Nicoise with it.It can also be perfect  as a tuna melt with cheddar on top for a heartier lunch or supper.. Any leftover bread can be repurposed in both savory and sweet ways. You can make  savory bread pudding as well as a sweet one. There is a bread salad that consists of stale cubed Italian bread, tomatoes ad sliced onion. One of the classic bread recipes is French toast and it can be made for any meal. Besides it's one that you know the kids will love  and eat up instantly.

Refrigerator roulette can be a life saver,Look through the fridge or pantry for ingredients and then be creative. You can come up with a tasty meal with what ever is around.

Friday, August 14, 2015

Method Of Procedure Great Recipes , Easy Style

Everyone thinks that cooking is an art and you have to have that artist's touch to be successful at it. That is partially true however there are some great cookbooks out there to help any home chef become kitchen savvy .A new one. Method Of Procedure by celebrity chef , Thomas Gosney can assist in that. Delicious meals and desserts can be created with his simple instructions to sometimes complicated recipes.

What is great and what I love about this book, published by XLibris is that recipes are deconstructed. It's like having Chef Gosney right there in the kitchen with you. He is an expert chef, having trained at the famed Johnson and Wales University in Providence , Rhode Island  and appeared on the Food Network With Bobby Flay as well as on MTV and Hard Copy. He offers hints and tips that you would only get in a cooking class. His stock recipes are broken down into basic ingredients, suck as meat and bones and then the aromatics or herbs. A third category acid  is added, This is anything fro tomatoes to alcohol to zing up the broth. It does make for a better taste and understanding of how flavors meld together to form a definite taste. His salad dressing recipes are also somewhat similar. He explains what emulsion is, an important process in creating the perfect one. For some of the other recipes he puts directions such as DON"T OVERCOOK in bold letters, just as a reminder to not let the dish head south.

Chef Gosney's book is a mix of old and new, family and trendy.There are many seafood recipes since he is a fish lover.He lovingly writes about a seared halibut with a fragrant saffron broth and a grilled lavender trout that uses the now trending lavender as a flavor ( don't be afraid  -it can also  be used in cooking). I like his takes on homey classics like ambrosia, that pot luck dinner side that he elevates to gourmet level and forgotten cookies which are meringues that are baked in a low oven overnight There are also dishes that are on point right now such as Korean kim chi and espresso herb crusted  bison rib eye steak.Meats.that aren't mentioned much in conventional cookbooks are also included in recipes such as Cast Iron Pressed Pheasant and Dijon and Thyme Crusted Rabbit. He does have vegetarian dishes such as porcini mushroom risotto which he walks the reader through  and collard greens  made with smoked ham or smoked turkey legs. Chef Gosney also has excellent sides such as cauliflower "grits, spiced with jalapeno and garlic noodles.

Method Of Procedure is a great cookbook that helps home chefs expand their knowledge and elevate their skills. Chef Thomas Gosney  gives so many good recipes from appetizers to .desserts.They are fun and funky, trendy and homey.in short the perfect cookbook for today's cook.

Thursday, August 13, 2015

Expo 2015 New Food Ideas

Since its'  earliest days  World Expositions have been introducing people to new foods and ideas. After all potato chips, the hot dog and the ice cream cone were introduced at  expos past. Its' not surprising that the Milan 2015 has introduced some new dishes and concepts too.


Rachel Dondadio covered it and wrote about it for The New York Times Food section yesterday, She was able to travel to this beautiful gem of a city and sample some of the foods offered. The expo itself is a strange mix of cuisine and sustainability. Vertical gardens vied with restaurants for attention and visitors. The US had one of the former with kale and other veggies sprouting at a dizzying angle and being watered with drip irrigation. With the Americans comes the James Beard American Restaurant which is located at the Seven Stars Galleria in the city. A dazzling array of chefs cook there, and the dishes are made by Mary Sue Millikin of L.A.'s Border Grill, Sarah Jenkins  of New York's famed Porchetta and Paul Qui of Qui's in Austen Texas. The food is traditional American but not the usual barbecue and hot dogs. Every Thursday there is a Thanksgiving themed meal and there is an explanation of some American foods by Libby O'Connell of the History Channel. She tells of the history of the American diet, from the colonists' love of roast beaver tails (true!, they were rich in fat and protein - and I imagine crispy- the fore runner of pork rinds) to our passion for pizza - that came from GIs who had been stationed in Naples during the Second World war.

Mostly Expo 2015 is educational. The United Nations Pavilion Zero  has  a huge wall of monitors showing the changing prices of such foodstuffs as canola, papaya, beef and potatoes. The UK has a pavilion in the shape of a hive  to give visitors a honeybee's view of the world. Not only can tourists eat ancient grains in a variety of forms like pasta and pizza they can also learn about them too. There's also music there too, from techno to hip hop.Women and food is also explored thanks to a series of lectures about diet and nutrition. Since the Expo is also about sustainability there are several exhibits catering to this. Not only are there the vertical gardens by both the US and Israel there are also programs featuring the African Milk Project and Italy's Food Repurposing Project This last is reusing extra food into dishes  at schools  and eliminating large amounts of food waste. If you can ' t     make it to the expo, then go to the website , There are tons of recipes (in Italian) from every country on Earth and feature  everything from grains to meats and fruits and veggies along with chocolate.

Milan's Expo 2015 is an interesting marriage of saving and feeding the planet. It combines old and new cuisines as well as methods for repurposing food. It is an exposition that will enlighten foodies and environmentalists alike.

Wednesday, August 12, 2015

Ice Cream Philly Style

Nothing beats ice  cream, especially home made. It's so delicious and the perfect foil for homemade pies and cobblers. The best ice cream for this Philadelphia style, the original American treat .It's easy to make , especially if you have the best dairy ingredients. The result is light and airy, the perfect summer time refreshment.

Julia Moskin not only wrote about it in her Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section but made a batch too. Philadelphia style ice cream is different than the French custard style most of us are used to. For one thing it doesn;t have any butterfat or eggs to weigh it down. This eliminates any residual heaviness that lingers on the tongue afterwards. The taste is clean and dairy. After all it 's just milk and cream . This makes it better for flavors like lemon  and vanilla to shine through as well as the taste of  the cream itself. This also makes it excellent for pairings with everything from fruit to pies and cakes. It's not heavy  and doesn't make the entire dessert heavy either. The ice cream is also commercially made by Breyer's which first manufactured it back in 1866, Edy's and Basset's. Ben and Jerry's  along with Haagen -Daz make the heavier custard style which is still yummy but dense.

Home chefs can have fun with this recipe but remember it's all about the creams used. Ms. Moskin insists on an unpasteurized cream, the kind you find at farmer's markets. Unfortunately store bought kinds  have preservatives such as carrageenan and guar gum which can ruin the final texture .Also untrapasteurized or UHT heavy cream has already been pasteurized to 280 degrees Farenheit  as opposed to 162 degrees  for regular cream.This can give the ice cream a "cooked" flavor which you don't want  The second most important ingredient is sugar but you can also  use honey, agave or maple syrup. Then it's just a quick simmer over a low flame or even in the microwave. Taste  as you go. The initial requirement is one cup or 3/4 cup corn syrup. Remember that the cold air mixed in by your ice cream machine will blunt the sweetness. Ms Moskin also recommends that both the mixture and the machine be as cold as possible. Nothing should be semi chilled or partially frozen,It makes for tiny ice crystals whichs makes for a smoother texture. Remember the faster your ice creams goes from liquid to frozen, the smoother it will be as ice cream. You can sub in Earl Grey  tea  for the vanilla bean  for a variation, perfect after a light supper.

Philly style ice cream is easier to make than the custard style kind. It's also lighter and refreshing. Make a batch to go with the fruits of the season