Summer's Last Bounty

 There are still harvests to be found, relics of a summer garden.Green beans and peppers can still be fashioned into tasty recipes. Figs can be turned into a delicious dessert. We can still hold on to the season, thanks to some interesting spins on classic dishes.

David Tanis wrote  about doing such in his column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Gardens and groceries are still yielding up sometimes copious bounties that are perfect for an early fall table.The flavors from this fresh picked are brighter and more flavorful, resulting in a more delicious dish. He starts with the recipe for roasted peppers with capers , olives and anchovies. The peppers are sweet on their own but something salty added, like those three ingredients will amp up the sweetness. Mr. Tanis recommends using Corno or red bell peppers along with anchovy fillets, capers and olives although I would have just stuck with the anchovies (this and the peppers creates the great Piedmontese dish pepe e anciugi). The peppers are first roasted .They're then marinated in a garlicky vinaigrette and served with the fish, olives and capers. The main dish is lamb chops  with seasonal veggies.It's accompanied by a stew of green beans, corn , zucchini and summer squash. Again Mr. Tanis marinates here , the chops are seasoned with garlic, rosemary and sage.They're then fried and served with the vegetable stew which has been flavored with onions.

These recipes remind me of a Northern Italian meal my  Mom and cousins have made over the years. Mr. Tanis reinforces that vibe with the bonus of a polenta recipe. This can be a side or made the star , served with a side of the veggie stew. His polenta is baked with ricotta and Parmesan cheese along with olive oil. This is perfect for cheese lovers because the ricotta will still be in big blobs once cooked, perfect for mashing into the polenta.It's baked until brown and garnished with a good sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper.  You could just make this with sausages too, for an easy weekend supper. To finish off the meal, Mr. Tanis again goes with an Italian classic. It's a creamy panna cotta - cooked cream with figs and berries. The panna cotta has a light nutty flavor thanks to the addition of almond flavoring. The fig compote that pairs with it has  stove top roasted figs, blackberries, blueberries and raspberries. These have been roasted for forty minutes with Calvados brandy or kirsch. (this depends on your taste) They and the roasting juices are placed around the panna cotta and all of it can be served in a wine glass or ramekin.

Take advantage of the last of the summer harvests with these great recipes. They'll remind you of a dinner in Northern Italy, when the temps dip and fall is in the air. It's a perfect way to welcome in a new season.

Tacos Go Vegan

 The pandemic has hit the food industry, none more so than Mexican restaurants and food trucks. Yet it also has created a new kind of cuisine - vegan tacos. Chefs are using veggies when beef isn't available or is too expensive. The result - a tasty new idea that's quickly catching on.

Regular contributor and chef, Tejal Rao wrote about this phenomenon in today's New York Times Food section. Meat has had a dicey reputation in the last six months. Beef packaging plants have been breeding grounds for the virus along with the price of beef going up. Most restaurants had to change or rewrite their menus when beef prices tripled from three dollars to nine dollars a pound. Street vendors have it even worse, without the protection of a brick and mortar base. yet they can travel and have always catered to outdoor eating as well as to food trends, Some, such as chefs as Alex Garcia and Elvia Huerta of Evil Cooks ,went for a pork filled one call al pastor, popular in the Yucatan where it originated. It starts with pork rubbed with a mix of burnt tortillas and cacao. The two have also tried it on soy. Now many chefs are turning to veggies which is nothing new. Indigenous peoples have been making tacos with veggies and even fruits and flowers for flavor for centuries. It was the Spanish colonists who introduced pork into the cuisine.

Vegan tacos have been part of the Los Angeles scene for the last decade. Plant Food For People started selling jackfruit carnitas for the past ten years. Jackfruit is a wonderful fruit when it's cooked. It can be soaked in different marinades and juices and rubbed with a paste of achiote seeds and chiles. The flesh is soft and shredded but fries up into bacon like crisps as if they've been roasted on a spit. Diners prefer it to meat thanks to it' flavor and crunch.Vegan taco stands are also in the more gentrified sections of LA thanks to ones like Vegatinos which also produces such meatless classics as taco suaderos or beef from the shoulder bone and chicharrin , fried pork bellies along with pozole -pork shoulder and birria goat meat stew. Now they're opening up a second vegan one in the San Fernando Valley. Flowers are also being used as fillings too. Former Nordstrom make up consultant ,  and pop up restaurant owner Stephanie Villegas is using hibiscus which can soak up flavors like a sponge when it's rehydrated. She also has thinly shaved seitan too as a filling along with potato ones with a smoky matcha salsa. Her eatery, Alchemy Organics also sells vegan taco kits that has fried and marinated seitan along with veggies , salsa and A Kernel of Truth tortillas.

Vegan tacos are an old treat that's gaining new popularity. They're a great stand in to beef , thanks to  versatile chefs and ingredients. Veggie filled taco will be here long after the pandemic has left.

The Fall Pantry In A Pandemic

 It's time to start thinking of refilling the pantry now that fall is fast approaching. It'll be different, thanks to the pandemic which means  a different way of stocking up. what should be bought in bulk and what should be bought sparingly? What will give us hearty and delicious dishes in the upcoming months?

Apple season and fall go together perfectly so stock up on them. If you're lucky some farms in your area are open for limited picking. Take advantage of this because apples can keep for a relatively long time compared to other fruit. A basket or two is perfect and can keep well in a cool pantry, basement or even root cellar.If you can't make it to a farm, your local grocery store has a wide variety to choose from. Try Cortlands or Galas. Of course you can make pies with them, but also consider making something a bit long lasting like homemade apple sauce. This will go great with such cold weather dishes as pork chops or roast. The fruit can also be used in making apple butter and a variety of baked goods such as muffins. Canned fruit is another must have. Think peaches or pears which make great snacks or desserts on their own. Canned veggies are a must since they're versatile and can keep for long periods of time. Try to stock up on such essentials as canned potatoes - perfect for potato salads or soup, green beans  - again great as a summery salad or as a side  cooked almondine with almond slivers. Kids will love canned corn so consider buying a few cans of those . It is versatile too, being added to corn muffins or fritters or to chowders to add color and flavor. 

Every fall pantry needs beans - and plenty of them. They're a great source of protein and can be put into a variety of different dishes. Since chili will be prevalent for the cooler days, stock up on the kidney and pinto ones. Black beans are another must stock. Combine them with rice and spices for a nice side to roast or barbecued chicken. Chickpeas are another bean that should be bought a few can at a time. They have a dual purpose. Use the beans for everything from the Indian stew choley to homemade hummus and save the aquafaba or bean liquid for vegan meringues and mousses. Bean flour among other flours are another good pantry buy. Make sure you have plenty of white or gluten free too along or almond and coconut flour  if you're eating more healthfully. We may be baking a bit more again so stock up on yeast too. There has been a shortage in the past and there may be one again if everyone uses the cooler weather to bake bread.Sugar and confectioner's sugar will keep so again get the larger containers. There may not be school bake sales but there may be at home Halloween parties where cupcakes and cookies will be required.Take stock of the spices you have as well. You may need to buy a new bottle of cinnamon and nutmeg for baking and cooking.

it's time to stock your fall pantry. It'll be a bit difficult because of the pandemic but it can be done. Buy what is needed the most and your pantry be fine.

Sides That Stand Out

 Meals can become a little more elaborate and heartier now that the cool weather is here. It starts with tasty sides that pop and make the main dish sing. There's a lot to try , form the simple to the elaborate.

Rice is one of the best sides. It's an easy cook that goes with any kind of meat, from beef to poultry to fish. You can just boil it in water but try cooking it in either beef, chicken or vegetable broth to amp it up flavor wise. Veggies can be added for more pizzazz. Think scallions or onions if you want a stronger taste. Carrots and peas make for a more delicate one. An easy side is cooking brown rice in chicken broth and adding chopped scallions. Finish with three or four tablespoons of soy sauce. This is a wonderful accompaniment to orange or lemon chicken or ginger glazed pork. Rice with almonds and mushrooms is another stand out side that's perfect with turkey or Cornish game hens. Noodles have always been a home chef's side go to. Egg noodles with just melted butter are perfect for every kind of comfort dish from meat loaf to stew. Zing them up a bit with some freshly milled parsley or ground pepper. Spaetzles, those delicious Swabian noodles , are also a perfect foil for pork dishes. Mix them with sauerkraut for a tart , eye opening spoonful or combine with green beans and butter for something milder yet just as flavorful. This last is perfect with roasted chicken while the first is perfect with any German sausage from bratwurst to curry wurst.

Veggies have long played second fiddle to main dishes. Yet they can be just as tasty and can even outshine them. Potatoes are the perfect side. They can be made into a variety of different dishes.Of course, many choose the mashed version and why not? The fluffy mounds can hold puddles of gravy or melted butter. Yet the plain version can be a tad bland at times.Give them some oomph with mashed garlic or ginger thrown in. Keep the skins on or sub in whole cream for milk when mashing. Scalloped potatoes are an elegant side , sure to impress the family. It's mandolined potatoes baked with cream and onions along with garlic, baked for forty five minutes in usually a nine by thirteen casserole dish. Brussels sprouts have always had a bad wrap yet are a lovely and sophisticated side. The best way is steamed and then drizzled with melted butter or margarine and sprinkled with Parmesan. Yet roasted ones are also good. They can be sheet pan roasted with the main meal, drizzled with only olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Brussels sprouts  can also be sauteed too. Carrots are a bright addition to any plate. Many feel that carrots have to be glazed with honey or maple syrup to accentuate their sweetness. Go the opposite way and flavor them with garlic and olive oil. Try them with a butter basil sauce for a different spin.

Make sides stand out. They can be a simple veggie infused rice dish or an elaborate potato one.  Just make them as tasty and outstanding as the main dish.

The Perfect Cookbook For Young Home Chefs

 Home schooling kids right now is not fun. Yet imagine a fun and tasty way to do so. A new cookbook has come out and it makes not only kitchen work a learning experience but also a fun intro to home cooking  and baking. It's a great way to bring out the home chef in your kinds.

The book is Kitchen Explorers :60 + Recipes, Experiments And Games For Young Chefs (American's Test Kitchen 2020) and written by the chefs and writers at the great PBS show, America's Test Kitchen. Like the show it's filled with informative facts about all different aspects of cooking and baking. This is primarily a tween book, perfect for ten to thirteen year olds but younger kids with an interest in cooking will also enjoy it. As with their other cookbooks, America's Test Kitchen has a section on cooking terms defined. There is also a page on defining terms associated with experimentation.This is not a traditional recipe book with chapters on breakfasts and lunches . Rather , it has  the first chapter on a variety of  diverse kid friendly recipes plus make it your way challenges. The second chapter is devoted to science experiments and the third has a wide variety of puzzles and games, that not only expand a child's knowledge of food but also their vocabulary as well. It really is a fun book,Kids can learn how to make their own sea salt (!) just by combining kosher salt and plain water. There's a taste and smell test involving Jelly Belly jelly beans along with an experiment involving butter and water. The games are neat too.Kids can design their idea of a food truck or their perfect meal. There are quizzes about fruits and vegetables and foods' origins as well as a foodie version of "I Spy".

Are the recipes hard? No, and they can be made easy with adult supervision. There are such after school classics as peanut butter cookies with chocolate chips and giant chocolate chip cookies.Kids will love the amped up version of Rice Krispie Treats (along with the history of both the cereal and the treats themselves) that include chocolate chips and broken graham crackers. For a fancier snack there is the pesto flatbread pizza that introduces kids to such diverse foods as pesto and naan bread. Traditional recipes such as meatballs and sauce are also included for young chefs to make for a hearty dinner.Even more fun is the one for bean and cheese quesadillas that only require four ingredients. A plus is that the recipe includes a rhyming game involving  the ingredients. These dishes can be topped off with the fudgy mug cake for dessert. This is a take on the commercial mixes and it's rich in chocolate thanks to the addition of chocolate chips and cocoa. A side bar has kids writing down their observations about the cakes and how they went from liquid to solid in no time. Kids can also appreciate the recipe for old fashioned blueberry muffins that teaches them about traditional baking. There are also fun snack recipes for buttered popcorn, yogurt parfaits and smoothies. Young home chefs can also make their own no bake energy bites and wash it down with the recipe for flavored seltzers.

Kitchen Explorers : 60 + Recipes, Experiments, And Games For Young Chefs is the perfect book for kids learning from home these days. It teaches kids not only how to cook but about science and geography. It's the perfect tool not only young home chefs but students too.

Inclusion All Year Round

 Today we remember those who were lost nineteen years ago. We came together as a country. There was a sense of unity and fidelity to our country and neighbors. We are apart now, thanks to beliefs , prejudices and Covid 19. Yet there are ways of coming together and standing as one. That involves one of our  most basic needs - cooking and nourishing each other,

We can still cook and bake for each other despite social distancing . Isolated neighbors will appreciate a loaf of homemade bread or a casserole. It's even easy to create a meal box , full of ingredients and instructions and leave it on a neighbor's doorstep. You could add fresh produce from your garden along with spices and extras. Keep it simple. A jar of homemade sauce and a box of any kind of pasta is simple enough to make and reheat but nutritious and filling for a lunch or dinner. You could also include the ingredients for a tasty hero, with cold cuts and cheeses along with a small container of dressing. Have a dessert of some fruit , whether an apple or pear. You could also include a baggie of grapes or cherries too. For fun, add a small jigsaw puzzle , puzzle books and magazines. If the person is celebrating a birthday, find out their favorite meal and make that. Include a small cake or cupcakes along with a small gift.

Inclusion also means bringing kids together despite the social distancing. There can still be get togethers but  on Zoom . Parents can get together and create the same dinner that everyone can share on this modern meeting medium. A truly inclusive idea is having Thursdays or one day of the weekend saved for different recipes from different groups. It could be a Nigerian beef and spaghetti stew or chicken with plantains. It's a great way of expanding family palates as well as the family cookbook. Cooking other classmates' family recipes brings new spices and flavors to the kitchen pantry. Parents can also write down their recipes in a class cookbook that can be published on Nook or Kindle. How to photographs  can be included too to show how a dish is made. Stories of everyone's ancestry and homeland can also accompany the recipes. Of course there could be virtual lunches too with everyone enjoying a shared peanut butter and jelly sandwich or a tomato soup in their individual houses. 

We need to be more inclusive despite our distancing. If we can honor the ones we lost, and our country, let's try to be more unified. It can easily be done through cooking and baking for each other.

Savory Sweet Dishes For The New Year

 Rosh Hashanah will be here in another week and it's time to think about dishes. Any holiday , this year, will be weighted. It has been a bad year so far. What can we do to sweeten the new one. The answer comes in the form of recipes that expertly balance sweet with savory, in a way a hopeful wish for the months to come.

Melissa Clark and Joan Nathan have come up with two very different yet appropriate ways  to bring in the New Year. Their recipes were featured in yesterday's New York Times Food section and are perfect savers for many years to come. Ms. Clark dedicates her A Good Appetite Column to the new craze of sheet pan cooking. She combines chicken with roasted plums and onions, an interesting way of combining sweet and savory. Keep in mind to get softer plums , ones that will release a lot of juice for moisture. You can use peaches , nectarines or pluots, again so long as they can produce enough juice.Ms. Clark recommends also using a slight squeeze of lemon for some acidity but not too much.Add a drizzle of honey because plum skins can be tannic or sour. The bird does have to be marinated a few hours before cooking. Flavorings include toasted fennel seeds along with allspice , fresh thyme springs and hot pepper flakes, the last used for zing. As for the onion, used a sliced red one. Everything is placed on a sheet and popped into a 425 degree F oven for about 30 to 45 minutes. You can garnish with flaky sea salt and more herbs.

Joan Nathan gives the more traditional tsimmes, a stew made of beef, carrots and sweet potatoes. The dish is originally German then Yiddish coming from the words zum essen meaning a big fuss. The original recipe included parsnips and turnips. It has since been adapted by Yiddish cooking and Americanized with the addition of sweet potatoes, brown sugar and cinnamon. Ms. Nathan has the sweet potatoes and even carrots for sweetness along with chopped prunes.Using the last means no extra brown sugar or honey in the recipe. For the meat she recommends using bone in flanken or flanken style ribs. You could also use  three pounds of English cut short ribs. She also suggests subbing in  the white Japanese yams for the American ones. For seasoning there's bay leaf and freshly ground black pepper. The flanken needs to be cooked the day before , in a Dutch oven with the bay leaf.It's cooked in a 350 degree F oven with eight cups of water for an hour, then removed from the heat. Let it cool overnight in the fridge. The next day, remove the congealed fat with a slotted spoon , and add the veggies and prunes, Bake covered for another hour and then remove the lid. Keep in oven until the potatoes are cooked, the meat is tender and the water is reduced. Season and serve with fresh, chopped parsley.

Making sweet dishes for the new year means a year full of sweetness. Hopefully this will be true.It's a time to start fresh leaving the sadness and bitterness of the previous year behind.