The Rhode Island Sloppy Joe My Spin

The recipe in last Sunday's NewYork Times magazine looked too good to pass up. Sam Sifton wrote about it .It is Matthew Hyland,'s, owner of Emily and Emmy Squared  restaurants of Brooklyn, Manhattan and Nashville.He first made it at the deli marketplace at Clements Marketplace in Portsmouth. Rhode Island when he was an undergrad at nearby Roger Williams University in Bristol.It sounded good and vegan convertible. It had to be made.I added my own spins on it.
   It calls for green peppers. I used red because they're sweeter and would work well, offsetting the spiciness of the vegan chorizo I used.

One pepper was sliced , seeded and coarsely chopped. I then added crumbled vegan chorizo.

It comes in a plastic casing  which has to be discarded. (note to self - remember this the next time you cook with it).

Chef Hyland's recipe calls for red onion. I had a quarter of a yellow one left over so I decided to use that. Of course there was garlic, finely minced.

The recipe also called for cumin seeds which I didn;t have, Powdered cumin worked just as well.

Two teaspoons.

It was all mixed together with a cup of crushed tomatoes and half a cup of water.

It was a delicious mix.Everything was stirred over a medium flame.

It cooked up very well,  like a Sloppy Joe. which it essentially it is.

It should be layered with kale or spinach and a slice of Provolone cheese but I thought the two may be too much. I did add a liberal dose of celery salt as required.It gave it a Springy green flavor.

I preferred mine on a crusty hard roll, which is what Mr. Chef Hyland recommends.

This was a great sandwich. Next time  I will layer on spinach leaves and Provolone cheese for the whole experience. It was definitely a must do and a tasty one at that too!

School Of Chocolate

Ever wonder how those glossy domes of chocolate bonbons are made. It's not an inherent art.It's actually learned and of course taught.Just like there's a School of Rock , there a school of chocolate as well.

Tejal Rao, a regular contributor wrote about this in today's New York Times Food section. She interviewed Melissa Coppel , head and master teacher at Atelier Melissa Coppel in Las Vegas. That may sound odd, One would think of a chocolatier in New York, or Los Angeles, yet Sin City is known for its' very good culinary schools and colleges featuring hospitality courses.The school is located in a nondescript  and unglamorous strip mall in Western Las Vegas where it shares a parking lot with an orthodontics office and a law firm. Yet it attracts students from around the world, from such diverse locations such as New Zealand and Trinidad. It is one of the few pastry schools in the world that teaches the art of  molded chocolate work, a dying art nowadays. As a result it is in competition with such prestigious schools as the Chocolate Academy and the French Pastry School, both in Chicago.

Chef Coppel, herself, is Columbian,born in Cali , and trained at Chicago 's French Pastry School. She is rare for a chocolatier. She then returned home and started to give classes in spring roll wrapping, dinner party planning and knife skills.Her classes were filled with cooks wanting to coking better for their employers and stay at home moms.Chef Koppel quickly realized she like teaching.She eventually finished her education in Argentina and wound up in the kitchen of L'Atelier Joel Robuchon. It was at a time when hotel pastry kitchens were shrinking and she saw an opportunity. She created such successes as chocolate bars filled with yogurt ganache and berry compote.it was served on a base of oat crunch. Another one was layered pineapple caramel with macadamia praline. Unlike other , mostly male, chocolatiers, Chef Coppel shares her methods with her students.They try to imitate her glossy, pristine domes, which will take some time to equal her. She celebrates the end of each class with a shared bottle of champagne. Luckily her chocolates will be available for sale on line in October for those who want those creative, glossy domes.

Chef Koppel is rare because she is a chocolatier willing to share the tricks of the trade. She will be responsible for a new generation of chocolate makers. Her skill is not only candy but also teaching how to make amazing bonbons

A Student's Kitchen

It's that time of year again when many college kids are packing up and heading off to school. For many , it means living off campus or living in a dorm where there's a shared kitchen.  That means cooking  even though it's quick. It also means assessing what will be needed to survive,

Luckily all kitchens are more or less equipped. Every one should have a working oven/range and fridge. What may be needed is a microwave(should have) and possibly a toaster oven (ought to have but not necessary). The first is valuable in heating up everything from hot pockets to leftovers. However a microwave is also invaluable for heating up ingredients such as melted butter or warmed milk along with cooking such dishes as stuffing and even spaghetti, The last can be boiled in one however it doesn't taste as good as pasta boiled on the stove. A toaster oven may take up room yet it is handy.It does more than toasting. It's great for making English muffin pizza giving the muffin's edges a nice crispness. It's perfect for making grilled cheese and tuna melts along with reheating leftovers such as pizza and egg rolls.Another reason to have a toaster oven is that it's easier to use at times rather than the conventional one, especially if you come home tired after a full day of work and school.

What other kitchen items should head off to college?A good, all  purpose knife is a must. Farberware has some excellent ones and these can be used for slicing dicing and even cutting into pies and cakes. A small paring knife is another invaluable must have. It  not only skins fruits and veggies it can be used for cutting up butter and margarine sticks for baking.Good pots and pans are also high on the list. Remember, that with the proper care, they can last well into that first apartment and even into the first house. You could buy some fun but useful ones such as the omelet pan  for one or the grilled cheese griddle for one . A stock pot is another must. Use it to make large quantities of soups that can later be frozen for future eating. It's also good for pasta too. Many students are big fans of the Insta-Pot. They've seen the successes their parents have had with them. These can do everything from steam rice to braise beef.If you feel that it's too expensive (some can run close to $200 ) then just get the three quart one . Another option is the crock pot which can be had for only $9.00 at Target. It does the trick too, especially when making tomato sauce or chili,.

It's time to pack up the gear for dorm or apartment life. It's also time to pack up or buy the kitchen gear that will make cooking easier. Choose smartly.

Strange Fruit

Are we getting a bit too creative with how we grow our fruits and vegetables? Lately the old standards, especially grapes and tomatoes are not what they've been for millennia. It seems their genes have been tinkered with - to create - monster fruit?

I've noticed this with a new kind of grape the tear drop.

They 're supposed to be tear drop shaped but look like dark purple ancho chilis. In fact they were first branded as chili pepper grapes but that confused consumers. Buyers thought they would be spicy and sweet   which was wrong. The name was quickly changed to finger grapes. Again,people didn't

 like the idea of naming them after body parts.. Unlike other grapes, they can be split open to be filled with salty cheese. Tear drop grapes can also be grilled with lemon juice and oil. They are also good gracing poultry , duck and pork along with any kind of nut. Pop them in vanilla yogurt for a different kind of dessert or snack.They first came into being in 2002.

Another strange fruit is 

these multicolored grape tomatoes that look more like grapes than actual grapes. They a mix of cocktail, cherry and grape. They're greenhouse grown in Mexico and have a variety of flavors, from  very strong tomato-y to mild , sweet fruity flavor. They're a fun low calorie snack that only need a dusting of sea salt. These are for those who are already bored with the ripe , rich taste of regular grape and cherry toms. They can be used in salads, but I've put them in Aldi's pasta Alfredo, to give it some acidity. You could halve them and put them in omelets, or pair them with 

stale Italian or French bread, minced garlic, , olive oil for a spin on Neopolitan bread salad. They also can be used in any kind of kabob for color and taste.

These are strange fruits indeed. Yet they 're fun to eat and experiment with in old and new recipes. Try them for something different.

Are You Cooking School Ready?

It's the time of year when many soon to be high school juniors and seniors start thinking about careers and colleges. Some younger home chefs think it would be fun or interesting to run a kitchen or bakery. As with everything it takes a good education, to get ahead.

As with anything, research is the key. Look into culinary schools and universities around the country. There are even community colleges that offer AA or an associates degree in the subject. These are usually cheaper and in some states no tuition for state residents making under $45,000 per year. Also two years isn't that big a commitment,If you want to change over into another or related field you can after continuing on at a four year college. Another aspect to consider is whether you want to go to a cooking school or a college. Such universities as John & Wales  offers both.Having both culinary  training and business background would be appealing to a young chef  to be who wants his or her own restaurant right away. The same applies for the Culinary Institute of America or CIA where you can even earn a master's degree in food or culinary business.Of course tuition is the main issue , There are scholarships and financial aid to help. However, education shouldn't come with a price tag, yet many parents often steer their kids towards the much more affordable options.

Are there still cooking schools in the world? Yes, however here in the States, they're more likely to offer other courses as well.Walnut Hill College in Philadelphia , PA, offers a European approach to teaching cooking, with even cooking camps for younger kids and high schoolers. They even have classes abroad at both English and French cooking schools. Of course, there's Europe, namely France, where the idea was born with the Cordon Bleu Cooking Academy. This institution , first established in 1895, is the world's most famed school and a prototype for others  that have followed. It is still accepting students and has such famous alumni as Julia Child, Mario Batali, Giada De Laurentiis and the famed Great British Baking Show judge, Mary Berry. The school has also expanded to London and Florence  as well as into North American, South America, the Middle East and Asia  (strangely they don't have a campus in the US). For some future chefs this would be a dream come true, however they and their parents should take into consideration, everything from housing  to language to even safety.Parents, if you  feel your kid is ready for life abroad, this is the education for him or her. If not, look into an American school that offers a junior or senior year in another country.

Any future chefs should start researching now for the culinary school or hospitality degree that suits them. Picking the right one is key to any success. Select one that will guarantee good training and education in the food industry.

Cold Comfort

A heat wave means one thing - a aversion to anything hot and that includes food and drink. Who wants to eat fresh from the oven roasts and casseroles? Or worse , fresh from the burner soups and skillet meals. Keep it cool -  have chilled foods, from morning to night.

As much as we love a bowl of hot oatmeal and farina, it's time to think of other grains.A cooler bet is a bowl of rice or corn puffs with chilled milk. Add some blueberries or strawberries to give it a healthy vibe. Another idea is chilled melon. Cube watermelon and cantaloupe along with chunks of casaba melon for a refreshing, low calorie starter. Another low calorie breakfast, is a chilled parfait. Layer various fruits, such as pineapple and blueberries with Greek yogurt and granola for the perfect beginning on a sweltering August day.Freeze it and you have a breakfast Popsicle, every kids' dream breakfast. Instead of spooning the layers in a parfait dish, layer them in Popsicle molds. Freeze overnight. Remember these also make great desserts and snacks for them and for the adults too. What to drink with these frosty starters? Iced coffees and teas. There are many cold brew options for both drinks in your supermarket to choose from. Smoothies and fruit slushies are other cool options that go well with breakfast.

Lunch and dinner can also be chill creations. The easiest is a sandwich, of course, Make it different by trying a pan bagnat a Provencale treat loaded with all sorts of good fillings.Use a long , baguette , slice in half and then layer on sliced cucumbers, onions,kalamata olives and hard boiled eggs. Cheese and tuna canned in oil can also be added.This also makes a great weekend supper, enjoyed with a chilled glass of wine.Salads are one of those easy summer meals. One of my new favorites is a chickpea one, loaded with not only those garbanzo beans (save the liquid for baking) but chopped peppers, onions and parsley. For color and more taste I add grape tomatoes and then dress it with a simple vinaigrette. Make it three or four hours before serving for a cool, flavorful bite. You don't have to use chickpeas as the protein. Leftover chicken, grilled steak, and even tuna can be subbed in. Any leftover meat can be paired with a veggie for a tasty and substantial cool dinner. Try grilled steak and tomatoes, or minced ham with broccoli and onions. A more sophisticated take is vichyssoise , the French leek and potato soup, first cooked and then cooled. There is also gazpacho,a garlicky vegetable potage that's not even heated. It's made cold and served cold. Perfect with crusty Spanish rolls and butter.

It's August. It's hotter than an oven full of biscuits. Cool off with refreshingly cold dishes and drinks. It's the best way of dealing with a heat wave. 

A New Take On Pork Shoulder

If it's August , that means one thing - you've exhausted grilling every type and cut of meat available.However there's a cut of meat you may not have tried yet - or at least over an open fire. It's pork shoulder - usually a cut reserved braising on chill fall or freezing winter days. Surprisingly it's also perfect for summer eating too,

Alison Roman explored this new side of pork shoulder in yesterday's New York Times Food section.
Shoulder is usually reserved for braising in a Dutch oven.It's one of those cuts that gets retired during the warm weather, only to become popular in the fall when cool days arrive. Yet , this cut can be sliced into pork chop like pieces and grilled. They should be cooked hot and fast - not the typical one hour in a Dutch oven.This makes the fatty bits char and crisp, which only add to the flavor. Some may worry that this won't thoroughly cook the meat and make one sick. Not to fret.According
 to USDA, United States Department of Agriculture, pork can have an internal temperature of 145 degrees F to be considered safe. (have a meat thermometer handy to gauge the temperature). This should give you medium rare meat, perfectly pink and juicy.Flavoring them is a cinch. Try a sprinkle of sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Another variation is citrus juice, chili paste and fish sauce. They can be marinated for up to twenty-four hours in advance.

Preparing the meat may be a  bit more labor intensive . The pork shoulder should be cut crosswise into one inch thick steaks, Ms. Roman cautions that some pieces may not stay in the steak shape, depending on the cut and shape of the shoulder bought). Season with salt and pepper, place in either a shallow baking dish or resealable plastic bag. You can just leave it at this if you want just the pork flavor. For Ms. Roman's marinade combine fish sauce, light brown sugar and sambal -  hot chili paste, garlic and half a cup of lime juice, Mix in a bowl to dissolve the sugar.Pour half  the mixture over the chops and let marinate for fifteen to twenty minutes while the grill is being fired up. You don;t have to worry about leaving it out. That's fine. The grill at this point should be "screaming hot" as Ms. Roman puts it.Once on the grill, the pork should be a deepened brown color and lightly charred on both sides. Each side should be grilled for only two to four minutes each. Let stand in a  shallow baking dish and pour the rest of the marinade. Serve with rice noodles or rice. Top with lettuce , shallots and mint. Serve with grilled citrus for squeezing.

Try a pork shoulder chop for a new grilling experience. It's get you out of the barbecue doldrums  and into exciting new territory. Don;t wait for fall to eat it. It's perfect now for a summer meal.