Honoring The Indigenous

We don't give enough credit to the first Americans - the indigenous tribes who introduced the Europeans to their foods. We should and hopefully we will. Sean Sherman , a Lakota chef is making sure modern Americans are tasting the foods of the first Americans.

 Lakota Chef Sherman and his story was the highlight of today's New York Times Food section.It's part of a series of honoring different chefs and their culinary backgrounds. Funny that native foods are never really covered in the Times, when they should be. They are varied, echoing the elaborate rituals of all the tribes. Chef Sherman , with the help of Beth Dooley, recreated dishes from all over  the pre-Columbian US. He is the creator of the cleverly named Sioux Chef, which brings native influenced dishes to the entire country.  He didn't want the recipes he developed for today's article to  ones from 1491; rather he hopes to celebrate the diversity that defines our communities now. It's a look into what Indigenous chefs are making now and highlighting the ingredients from the regions they reflect. Chef Sherman's team connected with other Indigenous chefs along with farmers, seed keepers, academics and leaders to create original fare from Mexico to Alaska. There is none of the colonial ingredients that are part of European cooking. You won't see wheat flour, dairy, cane sugar and various meats such as beef, chicken and pork.  The palate is still bright and inventive yet traditional. Many tribal elders said they haven't tasted these pure flavors like cedar roasted venison and seaweed flavored oysters. since childhood.

Chef Sherman also highlights his own Lakota heritage. He offers a stew of roasted turnips and winter squash with an agave glaze.The original recipe calls for timpsula, the wild turnip that grows on the plains of his native South Dakota Black Hills. Still, it would be a great side to any fall dinner. The veggies are tossed in sunflower oil then roasted. Agave syrup is layered on and the dish is finished with a sprinkling of sunflower seeds.There is also a bison pot roast , cooked with hominy and flavored with juniper berries and sage.Other regions are also represented.There is heritage turkey from the Onondaga Tribe from the northern New York State which are raised outside. They're not the hormone laced birds we're used to eating. They have meatier thighs and smaller breasts, along with a higher ratio of dark to white meat. Chef Sherman's turkey is served with a berry-mint sauce and walnuts. It can be served with another recipe, this one from the Great Lakes region.It's wild rice and berries with popped rice. The last is made similar to how we used to pop corn, but in a dry , hot skillet. Hazelnuts and different berries such cranberries and blue berries along with sour cherries give it more flavor. The Pacific Northwest  Muckleshoot tribe is also represented with salmon. It's briny tang is offset with crushed blackberries and seaweed.

 Indigenous cooking is truly American cuisine. Chef Sherman is making sure we know that and start enjoying native dishes. It's much much more than inclusiveness. It's this country's heritage.

The Glory Of Islamic Food

Islam, like many other religions has taken a bad wrap lately. People tend to forget its' history and with that the foods that are part of that history. Thankfully , there is a new cookbook that shows not only the foods of this vast religion but also the its' long story. Both are intricately intertwined.

It is the subject of a new cookbook written by cookbook writer, Anissa Helou, a Christian, herself, but also Lebanese born. Mayukh Sen, a James Beard award winning writer on food and culture, interviewed Ms. Helou for yesterday's New York Times Food section. Like many other Lebanese, she was uprooted by the civil war that started in 1975 and ended in 1990. She talked with many from this  diaspora in 1992 and realized there was a need for a cookbook. Lebanese Cookbook was on the shortlist for the Andre Simon award which honors British food and drink books., Eight more recipe books followed, covering such topics as varied as Mediterranean street food to offal. The ninth cookbook , Feast : Food Of The Islamic World , a five hundred page book rivaling LaRousse Gastronomique in size. It starts off with the advent of the religion i the year 610 to the Mughal Dynasty. There are 300 recipes(!) that show the expansive realm of the religion, from Xinjiang to Zanzibar. Ms. Helou felt she had to write this to show how the religion  really is after seeing the rise if ISIS and the Arab Spring vilify it.

The recipes are extensive . (those interested can take a free peek at the book on Amazon). Flat breads are the same yet not the same, thanks to variations that include ghee and nigella seeds. A dessert as simple as rice pudding is made differently according to the country. Moroccans  make it with milk and orange water. The Turkish omit the milk and flavor it with saffron. There is also the Lebanese treat, kabab karaz a dish of ground lamb meatballs cooked in a pool  of sour cherries,raw cane sugar and pomegranate molasses. The meatballs look like tiny ruby marbles as they're piled on pita triangles that have been drizzled with melted butter and topped with chopped parsley and toasted pine nuts. The recipe is interesting because it uses the Lebanese seven spice mixture, easily made at home by combining pepper with ground allspice, cinnamon,coriander, clove ginger and freshly grated nutmeg. The leftover mix can be used in marinades and tabbouleh.It's also special because it comes from the war torn city of Aleppo, once considered the Lyons of Syria,

Ms. Helou is the savior of Islamic cooking. it's told from a , well researched point of view. It's not just a cookbook but history book.,

The Sweet Side Of Vinegar

Vinegar is a kitchen staple. everyone has a bottle of either red wine, apple cider or balsamic. Thanks to the fermentation craze, home chefs are making it at home. This complex ingredient is actually the easiest to create. It just takes wine, cider or time.

It fascinated famed chef and regular contributor , Tejal Rao in today's issue of the New York Times Food section.There is a steadily growing  swath of enthusiasts , from professional chefs to home ones who are creating bottles of their own. Vinegar's name , come from  the French vin aigre - sour wine yet it can be made from fruits,vegetables (!)grains and syrups. Th earliest ones were probably made from leftover wines and bumper crops, Ancient kitchens between the Tigris and Euphrates Rivers were the first to try the process.Before refrigeration there was absolutely no way to stop fermentation. Ripe fruit produced alcohol. It changed to the fermented liquid during the warmer months.It was not just a preservative but a flavoring agent according to Michael Harlan Turkell, a writer and maker of honey vinegars. He is the author of Acid Trip, his 2017 cookbook devoted to all things vinegar. it also formed the base of dipping sauces.Once it made it' leap it persisted into modern times. Like wine it was made in different ways all over the world.Coconut and nipa palms provided sap that could be mixed with water and sap  Saki produced rice vinegar.

Is vinegar hard to make at home? No. At its' most basic it's just fermented wine..It just requires oxygen, bacteria and alcohol.Anyone can start with ready made alcohol, a bottle of wine you had lying around, or even hard cider or saki.Homemade alcohol can be made with fermented fruit such as peaches and water. Enthusiasts also buy pH meters to read acidity, but the only other items necessary are a wide mouthed jar and a cheesecloth for straining. There is also a starter or mother that Amazon sells for around ten dollars. It 's a clear disc of acetobacteria and cellulose that forms naturally on the top of vinegar. Once mastered you can create almost any flavor. Chef Misti Norris of the Dallas pop-up restaurant Petra and the Beast, creates all sorts of acidic concoctions from local mustang grapes mixed with passion fruit, peony flowers and figs Her apartment is full of glass containers and covered oak barrels. she plans on selling them later this year. Other restaurant owners such as Jori Jayne Ende, of  Lady Jayne/s Alchemy and fish  & Game in Chatham, New York uses leftovers from carrots and tomatoes to brown bread and even tomato. and sour cherry.  Her barrels contain everything from pith and seeds to  cores and peels. . They are left to ferment in a wine base to create vinegars that she'll use in a variety of dishes such as snails.

Fermenting is the hottest culinary trend right now. Start with creating a vinegar with any favorite wine or cider. it'll be a nice addition to the kitchen pantry.