A Harvest of Cookbooks Part Two

Baking is one of the mainstays of the fall kitchen, whether for holidays or just dessert. There's nothing like whipping up a cake or pie. Luckily there is a whole range of new cookbooks that center on the different sweets and treats that are hot off the presses right now.

The New York Times Food section reviewed an entire array of them yesterday. The savory ones were written about yesterday  and they covered  a wide range of interesting cuisines from East African to Ina Garten's comfort food recipes. Contributors to the New York Times Food section also reviewed these baking themed cookbooks.Julia Moskin, Pete Wells, Melissa Clark and Kim Severson along with Emily Weinstein and Margaux Laskey critiqued all sorts . Pie lovers will go mad for Pie For Everyone : Recipes and Stories From Petee's  Pie, New York's Best Pie Shop (Abrams) is by Petra Paradez who owns the pie shop. She is a whiz at creating pies and tarts for all sorts of pie lovers, from the vegans to the buttery crust lover. She even has a way of sneaking more butter into her crusts for  a melt in your mouth bite. Chef Paradez includes a classic and almost forgotten New York favorite, the chestnut filled Nesselrode pie. Another book that features classic recipes is The Good Book Of Southern Baking :A Revival of Biscuits, Cakes and Cornbread, (Lorena Jones) features the chef of New Orlean's famed Willa Jean, Kelly Fields. She elevates classic recipes such as angel food cake flecked with two kinds of shaved chocolate and airy pancakes made with egg whites.

Fun cookbooks also are here as well. Snacking Cakes : Simple Treats for Anytime Cravings (Clarkston Potter) by Yossy Arefi a contributor to the Sunday Times T magazine, is the perfect book for any one who loves a good hunk of cake. The book is full of such mouth watering recipes as gingerbread and powdered sugar doughnut cakes. For more adventurous bakers there is A Good Bake : The Art and Science of Making Perfect Pastries, Cakes Cookies, Pies Breads at Home (Knopf) by Melissa Weller,a former chemical engineer and Carolynn Carreno.Ms, Weller shows how to make a sugar cookie top extra crackly and how to make toppings stay on focaccia. Advanced home bakers will love reading through Claire Saffitz's Dessert Person : Recipes and Guidance for Baking With Confidence (Clarkson Potter) Ms. Saffitz' is a pastry chef who has contributed to The NY TImes along with being contributing editor to Bon Appetit  magazine. She has detailed recipes with step by step how to recipes on almond butter banana bread and salted halvah blondies. Fans of San Francisco's 20th Century Cafe will love Baking at the 20th Century Cafe: Iconic  European desserts From Linzer Torte to Honey Cake (Artisan). Author Michelle Polzine puts' fresh spins on staid classics and allows home bakers to try their hand at elegant cookies and sweet and savory strudels.

Fall is the season for baking. Any of the cookbooks can give the recipes perfect for the cooler months ahead. They have a plethora of treats and desserts for home bakers looking for something new to create.

A Harvest Of Cookbooks Part One

 One of the best aspects of fall is that it produces harvests. There are apples and pears along with pumpkins. Yet the best bounty of all is the plethora of cookbooks   that comes with the season. There are some great ones , perfect for fall cooking and baking.

The New York Times Food section gave a very good analysis of what's coming off the presses these days. A wide range of Food contributors such as regulars Julia Moskin, Melissa Clarke  and Kim Severson along with Vaughn Vreeland, Margeaux Laskey, Alexa Weibel and even Pete Wells reviewed and recommended these  must buy cookbooks. There's books for everyone. Ina Garten fans will love her Modern Comfort Food (Clarkson Potter) has her classic recipes as tuna melts, risotto and corn muffins. Ms. Severson who reviewed the book clains it's a a bit Hamptons and not diverse. Yet' it comfort dishes from everyone 's favorite TV cook, and that's what we need right now. Another famed chef, and also a New York Times Food contributor is  Yotten Ottolenghi , has cowritten Ottolenghi Flavor (Tenspeed Press). He and his writing partner, Ixta Belfrage has such interesting dishes as coconut and turmeric omelet and sticky rice. Science also makes an appearance. Nik Sharma's The Flavor Equation (Chronicle) has interesting theories about how the interplay of  emotion, aromas, textures , visuals and even sounds affect the way we eat. There's also striking photography too.

International cooking is also seen here. Xi'an Famous Foods : The Cuisine of Western China from New York's Favorite Noodle Shop ( Brams)  is by Jessica K Chou which features the New York City's restaurants chain's most iconic dishes like biang biang noodles.Meera Sodha switches it up from her native Indian cooking to  including Chinese in her latest  cookbook East: 120 Vegan and Vegetarian Recipes From Bangalore to Beijing (Flatiron Books) has everything from baos or breads stuffed with peanut butter and mushroom fillings to tamarind slathered eggplant to a tomato, pistachio and saffron tart. Indonesian cooking is represented in Coconut and Sambal: Recipes From My Indonesian Kitchen (Bloomsbury) by Lara Lee who's Australian, Chinese and Indonesian. There is beef rendang and a bright green pandang cake in her book. African and African-American cuisine is also represented in In Bibi's Kitchen :The Recipes and Stories of Grandmothers from Eight African Countries That Touch The Indian Ocean ( Ten speed Press) by Hawa Hassan and The Rise : Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food (Voracious) by the always great Marcus Samuelsson have such interesting vegetarian recipes from the first while Chef Samuelsson has a mix of essays and recipes from black chefs and writers. Then there are the baking themed ones. They'll be covered tomorrow.

 These cookbooks features the best of fall cooking  They'd be a great addition to any kitchen., Buy them and expand your kitchen's library

Smaller Sundays

 Sundays used to be a big deal pre-pandemic. There were after church dinners with the extended family or brunches with friends. Now that's all changed . However we can still get together  - in smaller groups - with the same good food as before. We're just not going to go as crazy cooking and baking.

Most families celebrated the Sabbath with a good old fashioned roast. This could be roast beef or London Broil for beef lovers , turkey and chicken for fans of poultry and ham for cured meat aficionadoes. Some ethnic groups like the Germans had a good pork roast while the Greeks served a whole shoulder of lamb or the entire animal if celebrating a big event like a baptism or engagement. Now we have to think of less grandiose quantities for the immediate family. The best idea is to go small.Think eye round steaks which are perfect for individual portions or a 1.5 pound roast beef. You could go up to two pounds if you want leftovers for the week.As for turkey, try a six pound one which should give a small group ample servings and then some. Chicken can also be smaller in size or you can try Cornish hens. One Cornish hen comes in at one and a quarter pounds which can feed two adults. Two are perfect for a family of four.As for ham get a half one weighing in at five to ten pounds, enough for a table of five people. As for pork and lamb, consider chops. It's the same flavor but without all the extra meat. Chops are well loved and will go quickly. With these dinners come sides. Forget the big bowls of mashed potatoes and gravy along with three or four dishes of other  veggies. Serve baked potatoes with gravy instead and maybe have one green side like string beans almondine or tomatoes Provencale.

Brunches have always been big boozy affairs on Sunday. They were always a fun way of catching up and trying other's recipes if they were pot luck themed ones. Now brunches have been scaled down considerably with maybe three - four at the most gathering at someone's house. This means smaller dishes and maybe less variety. Quiche has always been a mainstay and at times the backbone of many a weekend brunch.  Downsize the recipe with individual ones in ramekins. You can also use your muffin pan to create mini quiches in different flavors, from the original quiche Lorraine to broccoli and onion flavored. Another idea is serving individual shrimp cocktails  with jumbo shrimp. Four each should satisfy hungry guests. Have them with a crisp green salad bursting with broccoli and cauliflower along with avocado slices. Already arranged charcuterie plates are another alternative idea. Instead of everyone grabbing from one platter, have various cold cuts, from prosciutto to mortadella and salami arranged on separate plates. Add cut slices of Italian or French bread and individual ramekins of the pickled Italian salad, giadineria for color and crunch. Dessert could be cups of freshly cut fruit or cupcakes, dusted with confectioners' sugar for a more sophisticated take. Of course have the mimosas and Bloody Mary's. It still is a brunch after all.

Sunday dinners and brunches are going to be smaller now. Yet that doesn't mean skimping on delicious dishes. You can still downsize and produce a meal that's a delicious way of celebrate friends and family.

In Praise Of Good Sandwiches

 We're still working form home . Kids are still learning from home. That means quick lunches with ingredients thrown together. Yet we all deserve a decent sandwich.It's not hard.  it's just two slices of bread with a good filling inside. That's it.Anyone, even the littlest home chef can create a tasty one,

The base of any sandwich is the bread. The best kind is a thick slab of  an artisanal one. Think rye or sourdough. The inventor, John Motnagu, the fourth earl of Sandwich set the example. He wanted his  roast served between two hearty slices so he could have one hand free to play his beloved cards. Think a one inch slice with a couple of slices of meat in between. Leftovers are perfect for this. Sliced chicken or turkey is perfect for this as is leftover London Broil. Make sure that these are sliced thickly too (thinner for the little ones so it's more manageable). Cold cuts are also tasty but just make sure they're of the best quality. Many groceries are still slicing  while others have the meats already sliced and packaged for purchasing. What makes for the best sandwich filling? That's up to you however the brand you choose will make a world of taste difference. Boar's Head is about the best flavorwise .It tastes like fresh from the deli. Their ham is perfect, especially since it's sliced wafer thin. Italian cold cuts are also a treat, especially on sliced Italian or French breads. Try them together for a true burst of flavor. Prosciutto and mortadella are sheer heaven together. Prosciutto and salami are also a great combo, especially on chewy Italian bread.

 You can also create a delicious filling if you're on a creative bent. Chicken or tuna salad is a nice change of pace and you  can have fun varying the recipes.Add some chopped tarragon to the chicken while tuna can get some freshly ground peppercorns for bite. Ham and roast beef can also be turned into salads thanks to chopping them in a food processor and then mixing with mayo. Ham salad can be spiked with mustard or celery seeds while a roast beef salad can benefit from a little crushed garlic and onion powder.  All these salads can be served on toast but also artesenal bread would work well. For real luxury try lobster or shrimp salad. You can also create a crab salad which would be good on buttery brioche. Leave out any seasonings on the seafood. Just enjoy their rich briny flavor and maybe a little chopped celery added in. Vegans and vegetarians can also have tasty fillings. There's a variety of different soy cold cuts that taste like smoked turkey and bologna. These can be slathered with Nayonnaise, the eggless mayonnaise which tastes exactly like the real thing. Of course nothing beats a tomato and Nayonnaise sandwich, You can add Morningstar Farm's soy bacon along with some arugula for a lush BLT too.Sliced tomatoes also work with sliced cucumber and red lettuce too. Sliced avocados on toast are another good lunch idea, especially when they're with onions and sliced Roma tomatoes.

Creating a good sandwich is easy. It just takes, bread, a filling and some creativity. It makes for a satisfying and filling lunch .

The Fall Baking Season

 Now that cooler weather is here, it's time to think about fall baking,. Many of us have been baked out , thanks to the pandemic and the quest for the perfect sourdough. Yet baking is much more than that. It's trying well loved recipes and putting new spins on old ones. It's a whole bake shop of different ideas.

Of course apples are big right now.Everyone is baking pies however apples can be used in a variety of other recipes too. A fun variation are apple dumplings. These are basically apples en croute with a cinnamon laced dough wrapped around them.  They're good with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. An apple galette is another delicious baked treat. Many home bakers balk at creating a fruit galette, thinking it's a fancy tart but it's really a free form pie. An apple galette is the perfect autumn dessert that can end a fancy meal or just a simple one. Apples can also go healthy with being a vital ingredient in muffins. They 're just sliced and grated into the other ingredients. Fall is also pear season. This elegant fruit can be the main ingredient of a tarte tatin, a buttery crusted pie with a caramelized interior. A tasty appetizer is a pear and Brie cheese baked en croute. This is a savory and sweet dish that has a Brie or Camenbert baked with spicy pear compote.

Spices play a big part in autumn baking. Everybody loves a kitchen redolent with the aromas of allspice , cinnamon , ginger and nutmeg .  These can be used together or separately in a variety of different baked goods. Together they create the ubiquitous pumpkin pie spice which is all over right now. Use them for what they were originally used for  - pumpkin pie. It's still a great way to end a meal whether  it's a Thanksgiving feast or just a Sunday dinner. The recipe can be varied. Home bakers can try their hand at pumpkin pie tartlets or turn the filling into a pudding and then fill in an already made crust.  Another spicy treat is a spice cake. Think of a double layered one with a cream cheese frosting (sort of like a carrot cake but without the carrots and raisins). This can easily be turned into a batch of cupcakes too, as a fun treat for a fall backyard barbecue. Cinnamon is another fall spice that's versatile in baking. A cinnamon cake is a nice alternative to a vanilla one and it can be served without icing or just with a simple dusting of confectioner's sugar. Cinnamon bread and rolls take the chill out of a cool morning and are an easy bake the whole family can participate in. Ginger and nutmeg are perfect in gingerbread along with clove and allspice. Add some cocoa powder to truly elevate this classic recipe as NIgella Lawson did with her gingerbread cake recipe.

Celebrate the fall baking season with a buttery apple stuffed galette or spice cupcakes topped with a blog of cream cheese frosting. It's the season to create delicious pies, cakes breads cupcakes, and cookies. Have fun and be creative , as you welcome the cool weather with fresh from the oven treats.

The Lesser Spices

 Let's face it. oregano , rosemary and garlic are the spice stars of any kitchen, whether residential or commercial. They sparkle and shine in sauces and rubs, marinades and vinaigrettes. Yet there are lesser known and used spices that can give oomph to any savory or sweet dish. It's time to get to know them.

Fenugreek is one of those lesser known seasonings. Only a few professional chefs have used it in various sauces and side dishes. Mention it to a home chef and you might be met with a "Huh?". Fenugreek is an herb similar to clover and found mostly in the Mediterranean  region along in South Asia and  southern Europe. The seeds are the part of the flower that's primarily used and the flavor is similar to maple syrup. The Indians eat the fenugreek leaves as a vegetable, It's best in Indian cooking gracing such dishes as aloo methi, a traditional Indian potato curry and methi dal, a dal that also uses the leaves as does the first dish. It's also one of the ingredients in Berbere spice rub which gives the mix a certain sweetness. Caraway is another spice that many home chefs don't know or rarely use. Yet it's a part of everyone's favorite bread - rye. The seeds have been gracing the tasty loaf for centuries. It's used also in biscuits, cakes, stews meat dishes sauerkraut and pickles. Caraway is even used in cheeses. Sprinkle a teaspoon in any stew for more flavor or over a pork roast. Definitely think of it when you're baking bread and want a nice topping.

Cardamon is another spice that's sadly underused in the home kitchen.It has a piny flavor , sort of like rosemary.It's grown in tropical areas like India and Malaysia along with Costa Rica. It's used to flavor basmati rice and curries. It's also a spice that works well with chicken, whether as a rub or as a sweet and savory curry sauce. Use this spice in baking too, Cardamon shortbread cookies are a nice addition to any Christmas cookie table. A flourless chocolate cake laced with it is always a delicious end to a dinner. Coriander is another spice that's only used during pumpkin spice season.It's one of the many spices that gives pumpkin pie and its' offshoots that tangy, sweet taste. It's grown in India and Indonesia and features strongly in both cuisines. It's also used in Mexican, namely in chiles, where it add some sweet zing.Coriander is  a big ingredient in Spanish and Latin recipes as well being part of rubs, sauces and soups. Try a coriander-cumin rub for your pork chops. This is a mix of the spices with hot chili powder, allspice and paprika. Allspice is another under rated spice.It can be found in the Greater Antilles, southern Mexico and Central America. It can be used in flavoring everything from Swedish meatballs to Jamaican jerk chicken.It also works well in spice cakes and cookies, perfect for fall baking. Think a spice cake with cream cheese frosting or streusel muffins, spiked with it.

These are just some of the lesser known spices. However they add big flavor to everything from stew to cakes. Try  them for a different spin on spicy cooking and baking.

The Bagel Lady

 There's nothing like New York bagels. They're a combination of chewiness and taste, sweet and savory. Many get the bagel bug , wanting to recreate this  in such far from Manhattan as possible places. Yet how can they, without the the right recipe and advice? Enter Beth George - the Bagel Lady. She has helped several bagel shops around the world get started, and helped make this quintessential NY delight global.

Alan Neuhauser,a freelance contributor wrote this interesting piece about Ms. George and her business partner, Frank Mauro , in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Ms. George who is officially a lawyer started out in the bagel industry in 2013. It began as simply a hobby and also for her son who had a sensitivity to gluten. She created all sorts of spelt breads, that became popular with family and friends. Soon she was selling them to Whole Foods after starting her bread company , Spelt Right. She needed equipment to help with the high demand so she got in touch with Mr. Mauro, head of regional sales at Excalibur Bagel and Bread Equipment. He was skeptical. Spelt dough can be temperamental. It can be too gooey or dry for the contraption known as "the bagel machine". This is a Rube Goldberg like type with a rotating metal cog and a gliding conveyor belt. He told her it wasn't going to work with her recipe but she could give it a try. She drive from her place in Maine where she was at the time to Paramus ,New Jersey to see for herself. That night she had the machine on the back of her pick up truck. Her company went bust thanks to the spike in spelt prices but Ms. George and Mr. Mauro remained connected. He realized he needed someone to show new bagel machine. That person was Ms. George who is now in Nearby Fair Lawn, new Jersey.

Ms. George has helped bagel shop owners as far as as India and Australia. She offered valuable advice to Spurthy Akshar, a young lawyer from Bangalore who wanted to open a New York type bagel shop in her town. She will put her own twist on it by offering spreads made from paneers and local vegetables. Then there are Eddy Tice and his partner, Ania Kutek who own NYC Bagel Deli in Brisbane. They , too, had lessons with Ms, George but unfortunately their landlord forced them to open shop earlier than expected in the new food hall where they were located.The staff hadn't been trained enough which meant burned bagels sticking to the machine. Luckily that's all turned around four years later with a new cafe called Superthing. Bagel love also hit the streets of Paris, where, despite all their expertise with such intricate breads like croissants and brioches, , French bakers flopped at bagel making. Again Ms. George came to the rescue, flying to the City of Light to help. Bagel making classes last four days and are eight hours each day.  Students learn how a handful of dough stretched into a thin unbroken windowpane can reveal if it's oven ready and how barley malt brushed on bagel tops can turn them into golden rings once baked. She does talk to students about the cost of opening up a shop  as well. It isn't cheap, starting at $225,000. Usually most people go in as partners, whether husband or wife or friends .

New York style bagels are becoming a global staple thanks to Ms. George. She is invaluable to those wanting to learn how to make this classic roll. It's not easy but she can show how to make it as simple as a toasted bagel with a schmear of cream cheese.