The Chocolate Guide Part Two

Tomorrow is the biggest day of the year for chocolate. Yet what's the best to get and what can you make with it? There are a number of different brands and a delicious amount of recipes. Any home baker can create a tasty treat for his or her beloved.


Yesterday Melissa Clark wrote a very informative article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Readers got to understand the bean to bar movement along with the difference between a bean to bar chocolate maker and a chocolatier. She also explained the cacao percentage and why some 74 percent bitter chocolate is not as bitter as one at 64 percent. There were fascinating comparisons between what African chocolate and South American chocolate tasted like.Yet which brands are the best? She wrote a sidepiece on the best kinds along with some interesting recipes. Of course the best is Valrhona which is also what's known as a B company which requires them to have a positive impact on its' community, its' workers and the environment.One of the oldest is Kahkow now in Brooklyn, started in the Dominican Republic in 1905. There is also Dandelion the up and coming San Francisco chocolate comapny that only has two ingredients cacao and sugar. The big cities such as New Orleans, Boston and Los Angeles all have good chocolatiers such as Acalli, Taza and Letterpress but also out of the way areas also are producing excellent bean to bar creations. There is Fruition, way up in the Catskills and Dick Taylor's tucked away in Eureka, California. Sudbury Mass gives us Goodnow, a chocolatier that blends in maple syrup in their bars.

There are some amazing recipes too. For a truly romantic dessert try Ms Clark's chocolate tahini mousse. It's actually a parfait blend off chocolate and tahini. The second is a tangy mix of the condiment and creme fraiche. The chocolate one is a mix of bittersweet chocolate mixed with an unusual ingredient for mousses - confectioner's sugar. Heavy cream is added to both for body and texture. You can also put candied cacao nibs on for decoration. Then there are the cookies. One is cocoa nib sables with flaky sea salt.It is a lush recipe calling for one cup European cultured butter and cocoa nibs. Think a French version of a chocolate chip that's drizzled with dark chocolate and sprinkled with flaky sea salt like Malden. Another must bake is bittersweet brownie shortbread  - a layering of the best of flavors.The shortbread is the classic recipe calling for one and a half cups of unsalted butter while the brownie is also the traditional recipe. The shortbread is first baked as the brownie mix is created.Then the brownie is slathered on the cookie , sort of like a brownie pie or tart. The whole thing is baked for another half hour before it's cut into bars,

What to get your sweetie? A creamy mousse or mouth watering cookies and bars would fill the bill. What a great way to celebrate sweet love?

Your Chocolate Guide Part One

The world's most chocolatiest holiday is only two days away and most bonbon buyers probably have no clue as to what to buy. Should they go sustainable for their sweeties? Where was it sourced? Not to worry. There's a guide to help.

Melissa Clark got the enviable job of tasting and writing about the varieties of cacao for today's New York Times Food section.It's a keeper article, very informative with a few recipes to try. (we'll get to those tomorrow).There's an interesting section on how chocolate is made. It starts with cacao or cocoa beans that grow inside pods, surrounded by fleshy fruit. The fruit surprisingly tastes like mango crossed with a pear and lychee (and not what you'd expect) After harvesting there the beans which then are fermented, Chocolate makers grind it down to create a chocolate liqueur. However it gets more complicated with the phrase "bean to bar". This began with the craft chocolate craze that started in 1996 in San Francisco.It was John Scharffenberger who created it along with Robert Steinberg who studied at the famed chocolate shop , Bernachon, in Lyons, France. A bean to bar maker is not the same as a chocolatier. The first makes chocolate from the beans while a chocolatier buys pre-made chocolate then melts and combines it with other ingredients. It's the base of such confections as truffles and praline along with a variety of other sweets.

Chocolate buyers and lovers should understand some of the language involved. For example what is single origin chocolate?Ms Clark explains it as a chocolate with beginnings in one area. The beans could come from just one farm or several sharing the same terroir (the chocolate industry uses the same terms as the wine industry). A chocolate's origin can tell the eater something. Latin American beans tend to be complex with notes of dried apricots, dark fruit and fresh berries while African ones tend to be fudgy with notes of raisins, coconut and coffee. Then there is the cacao percentage on the label. In ordered for something to be labeled chocolate here in the States it has to be thirty percent. Historically that percentage was always printed on the candy's back. That all changed in 1986 when chocolate giant Valrhona introduced the Guanaja kind which had a seventy percent cacao content. That's confusing too. A company's 68 percent may taste stronger and less sugary than its'74 percent. The percentages include both cacao solids and cocoa solids.If a chocolatier adds extra cocoa butter then that gives the finished product a smoother texture. The overall cacao percentage will increase but not the bitterness.In some ways it just depends on what chocoholics will like and what will appeal to them. A silky texture or semi- sweet flavor.

Finding the right chocolate for your sweetie is a lot harder than you think. As with any complex and layered food, be aware of the variety and what's out there. That should help you find the right treat for your sweet.

Sweet For Voortman Sugar Free Cookies

If you're trying to watch your weight or you just want to cut back, then consider Voortman Cookies. These gems are sugar free yet taste just as delicious as a regular sugar filled cookie. Honest. These are a great boon to those on restricted diets. They satisfy both the sweet tooth and the need for crunch.

Being on a cirrhosis diet I had to give up regular cookies. Not that I'm a big Mallomar or Oreo fan but once in a while I do want a cookie or two as a dessert or a snack.I looked up and down on my local cookie aisle.I found Voortman's with a a big sugar free sign on them. I had to try them, dreading the taste. Turns out the shortbread I bought was just like regular shortbread.I had to try more.

I love oatmeal so I had to get the oatmeal which was amazing. They tasted liked my Mom's old fashioned oatmeal cookies, buttery ,oaty and crunchy,

Of course I had to try anything chocolate too.

I bought their fudge brownie chocolate chip which was a thousand times better than the regular sugar kind. The flavor was a rich, earthy cocoa with a satisfying number of chips.

Voortman is actually a Toronto bakery started in 1951 by two young brothers, William and Henry Voortman, fresh from Holland. They brought Dutch recipes with them and created such classic cookies as their almond windmills and Simply Social sugar cookies. Their array of cookies and wafers are as varied as any other cookie company. They have oatmeal stripes and fudge striped almondettes.They are known for their variety of wafers that include citrus flavors. Yet it's their sugar frees that shine. The flavor comes from maltilol, a sugar alcohol used in gum and mouthwash to sweeten them. I want to tr y their orange creme and lemon wafers along with their fudge stripes next. A bonus is that maltilol is actually O.K. for cirrhosis (however not OK for diabetics).

If you crave a cookie but can't have one because of dietary restrictions, think again. Reach for a Voortman's sugar free cookie. They're even better than the sugar kind,a truly tasty treat for any sweet tooth.

Gifts For Your Valentine's Chef

As much as anyone appreciates a box of chocolates or a pretty necklace or fine tie, a home chef appreciates any gift kitchen. It's easy to win their heart with an intriguing gadget or something simple as a silicon spatula. What's best is that there's so many ideas for a really memorable present.

What would a home chef love? Some of the hottest trends may do the trick. Air fryers are big and they are always much appreciated. There are so many brands to choose from. The Power Vortex is a great one and is perfect for those home chefs who don't want to rely on their stove top too much. Target sells a two quart one , the Dash 900W Compact Air Fryer in cute kitchen friendly colors. Another trend setter every home chef lusts is the Instant Pot. This comes in a variety of sizes and is perfect for the home chef who has a busy work schedule. The mini ones are not that expensive and cute, perfect for just a duo.There are even air fryer and instant pot cookbooks, some with six to eight hundred recipes!!! If you're buying these then think of a smaller bag that has different cooking sprays (Stop & Shop has a good variety of these, from olive oil to butter) for the air fryer and different spices for both. A more practical gift is a surge protector if your beloved doesn't have enough outlets. As for gadgets there are some fun ones. Why not give the 3-in 1 breakfast center that has a griddle, coffee maker and toaster. Or for the herbalist and greens lover, a leaf stripper that give you the important stuff and not the stems.

There's a lot you can buy home bakers. Collapsing mixing bowls are a must. They can hold everything from batter to buttercream frosting for two cakes. Best of all they're silicone which means they're easy to clean and store as they nest into each other. Think a new stand mixer if your beloved is an avid baker. These's are sturdy and can be used for savory recipes such as bread kneading and mashing potatoes too.An absolutely fun gift for any cookie lover is Wilton's cookie press. It's relatively easy to load and comes with a wide variety of discs to create bakery level trees and flowers. Add to the discs by giving a Christmas gift of their holiday themed ones. Frosting bags and new tips are also always appreciated. An amazing must give is Wilton's Master Decorating Tip Set. It has fifty-five pieces decor from simple line making ones to flower nails for creating gorgeous buttercream roses. If you're giving this, then throw in Wilton's Icing Colors 12 count gel based colors that has the four basic colors, red, green, blue and yellow but also such dynamic ones as teal, copper and burgundy. There's even black (!) brown,violet and pink. Imagine the decorating possibilities with this rainbow! A more decadent decorating gift is the cake decorating airbrush kit from US  Cake Supply Company.It comes with ten colors and two metallic shades and is easy as pie to use It's expensive at $89.96 on Amazon but worth it for artistically finished cakes and cupcakes.

A home chef or baker may appreciate chocolate but only if it can be used in baking or cooking. Give Valentine's Day gifts that he or she can use. They'll be much appreciated and gobbled up!

Sweets For Your Honey

Valentine's Day means sweets - and lots of them. You can easily buy a pretty box of mixed chocolates or you can make and bake different treats for your love. Anything homemade will be appreciated - and loved. It's also from the heart which is special and from your kitchen which makes them even more special.

Of course many go for baked delights.  A fancily frosted two layer devil's food cake is always welcome, especially after a home cooked dinner. Think of frosting it with homemade raspberry or cherry frosting for extra dazzle. (Two Sisters Crafting has the best frosting recipes for these flavors). If you're baking for your guy, stout cupcakes with Bailey's Irish cream. For those guys who love to bake, think dainty little cupcakes, dusted with sanding sugar for sparkle. If you're ambitious you can give French macarons a try. They  can be a bit labor intensive because almonds have to be ground for flour and the recipe requires egg whites. A better version would be made with aquafaba, chickpea brine that has the same consistency and proteins as egg whites. Fill with a rich chocolate ganache, an easy make that has heavy whipping cream cooked with semisweet chocolate pieces. Of course a Valentine's Day cake doesn't have to be chocolate. There's no rule saying you can't make an airy angel food and serving it with a light whipped cream and sliced strawberries. You can also make a lovely lemon cake with a homemade vanilla icing. Decorate with candied lemon peels. A crostini filled with fruit is another nice treat, especially if it's served with chilled Prosecco.

Candy is always welcome and there are so many recipes you can make. One of the easiest is haystacks. These are mounds of chocolate and toasted coconut blended together. Some recipes also add almonds, peanuts and rolled oats. The purist recipe is the best although you can make it with white dark, or milk chocolate. You could also mix the chocolates too for a colorful spin.A variation would be nut clusters made with any of the chocolates and nuts added. You can try just one kind like peanuts or almonds or a mix that includes cashews and walnuts. Chocolate dipped fruit is always welcomed. Ganache can be used or just plain chocolate chips.Remember to add coconut oil so the chocolate will have a glossy finish when dry. Most would go for strawberries but chocolate covered blueberries and pineapple are also good.A different spin is caramel. Homemade caramel is surprisingly simple to make.You'll need butter, Karo syrup (or any corn syrup) evaporated milk and vanilla extract. This is all cooked down into creamy squares of deliciousness. For added decadence dip the squares in bitter chocolate for a really lovely rich flavor.

Create something sweet for your honey this Valentine's Day. He or she will appreciate the work and love that went into it. A home made sweet is really the sweetest gift of all.

Valentine's Meals For Your Sweetie

One of the best Valentine's Day gift is something homemade. Any sweetie will appreciate either a homemade meal .Even if you can't cook you can come up with an easy and delicious table for two.

A lux breakfast in bed is always appreciated. A simple dish would be scrambled eggs with ham . Put it on croissants for a richer look and taste. Another easy breakfast dish is eggs Benedict. This is simply poached eggs on English muffins with a lemon- butter sauce. It's mixed with egg yolks for richness.It's the perfect dish to serve with mimosas , or Bellinis, peach nectar blended with champagne. If you're lucky to have lunch together, then think of a charcuterie platter. This is one for the easiest but also the richest tasting of all lunch time dishes. Start with buying a beautiful wooden charcuterie plate. (you can always reuse it at parties and holidays). Have an array of good Italian cold cuts such as mortadella, hard salami and prosciutto. Sopressata, a spicy Southern Italian dry salami is another good meat, perfect on sliced Italian or French bread. Cheeses are a must. Brie is perfect, especially on French bread but Gruyere and smoked Gouda are also good choices. Have a chilled Cabernet or Zinfandel  to sip with this tasty mix. You could also go old school with grilled cheese and tomatoes. Cut the grilled cheese into a heart . Get creative and drizzle sour cream into a heart shape onto the soup's surface.

Of course a Valentine's Day dinner is a big deal. Just remember that's it's just as easy to make surf and turf at home than ordering it at a restaurant. Keep in mind that the seafood could be anything from shrimp to lobster to crab. As for the beef, any cut will do, from a flank to a T-bone. Serve with a side of buttery string beans almondine and/or sauteed spinach. Cornish hens are another tasty and romantic night dinner. Spike up the flavor with a rub of powdered garlic and paprika and serve with brown rice. Want to impress with a night of exotic flavors? Then try tagine, the Morroccan hot pot of different ingredients and spices. The recipe does call for tagine pot , a kind of skillet with a triangular lid but you can also use a deep skillet or even a crock pot. A chicken one calls for a whole roaster cut up  and cooked with tomatoes, peas and carrots. Almonds and dried apricots are also essential to give it a true Moroccan vibe. You could also make a veggie tagine by subbing in chickpeas and butternut squash. If your sweetie is a vegan, then think about a Beyond Meat burger with all the trimmings. Use a cumin spiced Nayonnaise , vegan mayo with tomato slices and soy bacon. Serve with a big helping of air fried sweet potato fries with a home made tomato paste based ketchup.

Nothing says love more than a home cooked meal.It could be breakfast, lunch or dinner. As long as it's home cooked by a home chef with a heart and a kitchen full of love.

A Childhood Favorite Dave Tanis Style

If you're  full Piedmontese or even a fraction of the nationality, you grew up with bollito misto. It was spoken in  almost mystical tones by my Mom and her aunts, my great aunts.It's a variety of different boiled meats and veggies topped off with salsa verde, parsley sauce. Now David Tanis takes one of my family recipes and updates it.

Bollito misto or boiled mix is a big deal.It's usually served at both Christmas and New Year's along with special occasions like baptisms , confirmations and engagement parties. it's a melange of both sausages and various cuts of beef. There are also veggies involved and of course, the most important part bagnet vert , Piemontese for green bath, the parsley sauce. Mr. Tanis received most of the recipes from Chef Danielle Glantz's friend and home chef, Gaia Bonaden , a food and beverage consultant from Torino, Italy. grew up, as I did with the recipe. Her family used a tail to snout philosophy , If you make this you can start with several beef cuts along with veal cheek and tongue along with oxtail. Sausage stuffed pig's feet and cotechino sausage ,a fennel laced mix of pork and red wine are also served. A stewing hen or capon is sometimes added too (my family never added any poultry) It wouldn't be a Piedmontese dish without the veggies. Mr. Tanis includes carrots , fennel bulbs ,golden beets, turnips, rutabagas and Yukon Gold potatoes. I would use Swiss chard if I could find it now too along with cardoons.


Of course bollito misto is nothing without the sauce. This is one heavy on the parsley. There's also basil, which my family recipe doesn't include. ( I  plan on making a vegan version and I am debating about using the basil or just amping up the parsley). Salt brined capers along with a pinch of red peppers are added for more flavor and a zing of heat. There is also horseradish and vinegar added. I remember that we served the horseradish on the side because not everyone liked its' strong taste. Will I add it to my salsa verde? Debatable. There are also scallions which also are a debatable point.Mr. Tanis includes Ms.  Bonaden's salsa rossa.bread soaked in vinegar laced with garlic cloves, tomato paste and two cooked bell peppers. Cayenne and paprika are also added for fire which will also liven up the flavors of the meat and veggies.Mr. Tanis serves all of this buffet style , but it's great family style with people reaching here and there for what they want. He also starts with small cups of broth - brodo with what seems to be tortallini. There's also an endive salad with hard boiled eggs and another Piemontese must have anchovies. I don't know if I would make this . To me it seems a bit much. He ends with a pear and frangipane crostini tart. It sounds and looks delicious but  after bollito misto, dessert is kind of redundant. I'd probably just serve  espresso with grappa and maybe a fresh fruit platter

It's amazing to see this childhood recipe again, especily in the NY Times Food section I intend on making my version to celebrate it. Try bollito misto for a different take on a buffet dinner. You'll enjoy it, guaranteed.