The Best Of Nice

One of the best cuisines is from Nice, that sun drenched city perched on the southeastern corner of Southern France. It has the best seasonings and spices along with a variety of seafood and vegetables. Blend all these together for an amazing array of main dishes and desserts. This is French cooking with panache.

One of the most satisfying dishes is the salad named after the city, salad Nicoise. This is an easy  yet fancy dish any home chef can whip up.The key ingredient is tuna, and not the typical one in canned in water. It has to be in olive oil or tonno en olio. It makes for a richer flavor with the salad. Fresh tuna is also preferred as well. Hard boiled eggs are another ingredient that add not just flavor but protein.The salad also needs boiled new potatoes along with capers. Adding a burst of freshness is Roma tomatoes along green beans and onions. The dressing is a pert lemon vinaigrette.Some add anchovies for more authenticity but if they're too salty , they can be omitted. Petit farci or stuffed vegetables are another Provencale or Nice dish that's perfect for the summer. This is a combination of different veggies , green peppers, tomatoes, zucchini and eggplants that are stuff with a blend of chopped veal,onion, garlic, bouquet garni and herbes de Provence This last is a blend of different herbs and even lavender, a staple in soaps and sachets from the region. The stuffing is partially cooked first  and then put through a mincer before being stuffed inside the veggies. They're browned in a 400 degree oven before being served with tomato puree.

Garlic is a standard in this sunny section of France and the locals make a delicious creamy mayo with it called rouille. It's simply taking three cloves and combing them with two egg yolks and olive oil. The mixture is spiced up by adding two teaspoons of cayenne pepper and a quarter teaspoon of saffron. It's usually served with fish or seafood such as lobster or shrimp but it can also be used for tomatoes or even chicken.Squash is a big part of the Nicoise garden and cooks there use the veggie  at every stage of its' development.They take the delicate squash flowers , dip them in batter and then fry them in butter or olive oil. The batter is a combination of flour, yolks and water along with a tablespoon of olive oil. The whites are beaten to a froth and then added later to it. The flowers are cut along a vein to open them and the pistils are removed. It's a quick but mouth watering fry up. Nicoise home chefs , never ones for waste , add diced zucchini to it to make zucchini fritters. dessert is usually fresh fruit , either, figs , apricots or pears. Adults enjoy an after dinner glass of pastis while les enfants get an ice cream from the local shop.

Nicoise cuisine is the perfect summer cuisine, It bursts with garden fresh veggies and fresh caught seafood.followed by fresh fruit. It is tres belle et tres delicieux.

For all the people of Nice, stay strong stay brave. You are an inspiration to the world right now.

A Hawaiian Treat ShaveH Ice

Hawaii knows how to do summer right. They're kings at creating the perfect outdoor luau, or outdoor party. They have excellent konkatsu along with other street foods. They've taken shaved ice or as they put it shave ice to a whole other level. Hawaiian ice is what other ices should aspire to be.

Kim Severson got the lucky chance of reporting about these treat  for yesterday's New York Times Food section. It is also the subject of a doctoral thesis written by  Hi'ilei Julia Hobart who was born and raised on the eastern shore of Oahu. Ms. Hobart left paradise for N.Y.U. where she is one of the nine doctoral students earning a doctorate in food studies. The program there is a lot more interesting than other doctoral programs with past thesis exploring the cultural and historical importance of bourbon, bottled water and even the masculinity of cooking. What is interesting about shave ice's history is that it was always mentioned in numerous trade agreements.It  seemed odd that the US would protect it but ice signified status along with providing comfort to settlers who preferred chilled drinks and ice cream.over the sour tepid foods that native Hawaiians were used to eating.. Yet it wasn't the Americans that brought shaved ice to the islands.We have the Japanese to thank for the treat that's now being sold across the mainland United States.They  brought it over when they were hired as sugar plantation workers.

The Japanese shave ice is called kakigori and dates back from the Heian period , from around 794 to 1185 AD. Japanese immigrants opened up small stores in the early 1900's to serve the plantation workers, some of which sold shaved ice. By the 1950's it was sold at many Japanese mom and pop stores like the M. Matsumoto Grocery store on Oahu's north side.Now it's just Matsumoto's Shaved Ice where there's a half hour wait at times. How is shave ice different from those Sno-Cones or Italian ice that we're so used to here in the summertime? It starts with shaving ice from a huge block of ice, usually a machine does it  (although it can be done by hand as well). The ice itself should be slightly melting with a sheen. The goal is to create soft , fluffy flakes that can accept generous pours of syrup. Sno cones , on the other hand are nothing more than ice pebbles that are so hard the syrup runs off them and into the bottom of the cone. Italian ice is ice that has the syrup already  mixed in and then frozen, There is also an art to shave ice, with the shaver catching the ice as it falls from the blade and then mounding it into a  firm dome. The dome must be sturdy enough to hold the syrup yet soft enough to yield to a spoon. There can be one flavor or several together as President Obama likes his.
sometimes there's a scoop of ice cream underneath or sweet condensed milk drizzled on top.

Shave ice is a Hawaiian treat with an interesting history. It is also a  light and fluffy cooler on a hot summer's night. If you can get it. It truly is a treat.

Chicken Salad : A Classic Revisited

One of the most classic summer dishes is chicken salad. It has graced luncheon and brunch tables for decades.It is a tasty favorite  both as a sandwich and on its' own. It's also an easy enough recipe that novice home chefs can make as good as any experienced one.

It was the subject of Julia Moskin's Recipe Lab article in today's New York Times Food section. It's a classic in the South where it has been served at luncheons for decades.Unfortunately it's been relegated to a tired deli standby by us Northerners. We usually serve it between two slices of  blah looking white or rye bread,It should be either served in a iced, crisp lettuce  cup or in another kind of cup, one made out of crisper , thin toast. The last is from the Swan Coach House in Atlanta where it's been served since 1965.Sadly the salad came about from the over abundance hens that stopped laying eggs and had to be killed in the summer. The salad has been elevated to a high art with two versions, one being served on weekdays while a chunkier, nuttier version was made solely for luncheons.  The everyday version featured finely chopped meat along pickle relish.This is usually served on crackers or in a sandwich. The more formal version has slivered almonds and even pineapple for some sweetness.A combined version of both is called the Bridesmaid's Chicken Salad and is a staple of Junior League cookbooks.This can be tried at home but Ms. Moskin's recipe is the more desirable one, adding some French flair with tarragon.

Before any chicken gets diced up, it first best to consider what kind to put into the salad. Home chefs looking for a shortcut may want to get an already roasted one from their supermarket. Ms. Moskin advises against this. Freshly roasted rotisserie birds will have dry and stringy meat, along with dark meat. which has no place in a true chicken salad.Instead use leftover breast meat from a poached chicken. She employs the Chinese method of using a heavy pot , then slipping the chicken into boiling water, then turning the heat off and leaving it to cook for two hours. Do this in the morning when the kitchen is at its' coolest. The meat should be then  hand shredded instead of being cut up by knife.They could be cut into chunks and then hand massaged so they absorb more mayonnaise. The mayo itself should be homemade. The store bought variety is laced with acidic components such as vinegar and citric acid, added to deter the growth of bacteria.A dollop of sour cream or creme fraiche can also be thrown in to fluff up the salad's texture. Along with tarragon there is minced scallion for bite  along with broken walnuts and pecan halves for crunch, Celery and onions are also added for texture and color. Serve it in a lettuce cup with a pretty side array of radishes and grape tomatoes.

The South's version of chicken salad is what a summer lunch should be. It's a nice refreshing change to the usual summer fare and has a certain elegance to it. Enjoy this summer classic either as a sandwich or on its' own.

Food's Greatest Hits A New Summer Hit?

Right now there's a dearth of reruns on TV, even with the channels dedicated to cooking. Yet the Cooking Channel has given us a fun filled,, fact filled.show. Food's Greatest Hits is a mash up of history, dares and recipes on some of our most beloved dishes.It's a frothy meringue of a show, worth watching.

The show had its' debut on the Cooking Channel last night at 10 'o clock and another at 10:30. (it's also shown on Tuesday afternoons between 2 and 3). The first episode was dedicated to cheese. They featured a salute to baked mac along with cheesecake. It's always interesting to know a recipe's origin and history. It's neat the way they do it with graphics and a time line. I didn't know that the two dishes started in ancient Rome and ancient Greece respectively. Another aspect of the show is how the show brings on chefs and food hosts from their various shows to try different variations of the dishes. My favorite was when they presented the participants with a Maine version of baked macaroni. It was mixed with lobster meat and served in a whole lobster shell. (and of course, the chefs and hosts who the show groups in pairs - wore lobster claw mitts). The cheesecake segment was also outrageous, with an Elvis style one loaded with peanut butter, bacon and bananas! There was also a bit on grilled cheese that went over the top too, especially the breakfast one..

The second show was devoted to carnival foods, especially funnel cakes.I had no idea that they came from Germany and that the Pennsylvania Dutch brought them over. What the show did with them was another matter. Funnel cakes are just good with a dusting of powdered sugar, but the show's chefs' took this simple treat to a whole other level. There was a funnel cake ice cream sandwich topped with a multicolored puff of cotton candy. Then there was the one topped with multicolored candy corn that would make even the fiercest sugar addict say "No!"Another interesting segment revolved around the corn dog and a segment on loaded fries . Many Cooking Channel fans will recognize some of the hosts, from Reverend Run to Haylie Duff, Alie Ward to Georgia Hardstock along with Justine Simmons.Future episodes include breakfast foods, sugar rush that features cookies, cupcakes and ice cream sundaes.Another upcoming episode that should be riveting is one dedicated to Mexican food. Hopefully they'll do episodes on healthier dishes along with fruits and veggies for those of us who are into more natural noshes

If you're looking for fresh , entertaining fare this summer tune in to Food's Greatest Hits. It's a fun romp into our favorite foods and their histories. It's a sweet treat for a summer's night.

Nectarines A Nice Summer Treat

Ask people what are the fruis of summer and they'll probably mention strawberries, and blueberries, definitely peaches. Yet another summer harvest is coming in right now Nectarines are also ripening. These wonderful fruits are a nice change from the usual fare and work well in many recipes.

What is a nectarine? A peach without the fuzz.The Chinese first planted them over 2,000 years ago and then the seeds were cultivated in ancient Persia, Greece and Rome, They were popular during the medieval era , growing in England and Spain. The Spanish brought them over to the Americas in the late 16th and early 17th Centuries. Nowadays California is their chief grower, with 95 percent of all nectarine harvests coming from there. Some peach seeds may turn out to be nectarine trees and vice versa.Many growers graft nectarine branches onto peach trees to guarantee a crop of then. The fruit's name means full of nectar.It's the perfect dessert or snack for dieters. Each piece of fruit only has sixty two calories. Surprisingly it's one of the few fruits that has protein in it as well.. Nectarines are also high in Vitamin A and beta carotene (hence the bright yellow flesh).It also has Vitamin,C, potassium and most importantly fiber.The fruit can be kept out for two to three days before they develop brown spots. As with other fruits, nectarines are better stored in the fridge Besides nothing beats the taste of a chilled one on a sweltering day.

Since they're basically peaches, nectarines can be made into the same dishes as peaches. Try them in a cobbler laced with brown sugar.They'd also be tasty in a crisp, either made with oatmeal or Bisquick. A more elegant dessert is a nectarine tart with a hazelnut crust.The fruit works well in cakes too. Try a buttery scratch one laden with slices and a hint of nutmeg.Fruit can be roasted over the grill so why not roasted some nectarines along with plums and peaches. Top the hot fruit with vanilla ice cream for a truly decadent summertime dessert.Another fun dessert idea is trifle with the fruit layered with store bought yellow cake or pound cake and whipped cream. You could even douse it with peach schnapps for a boozy, fun way to end an evening. You could also turn the fruit into a homemade nectarine liqueur. This last is just taking a pound of the nectarines and letting that ferment with three cups of vodka and a cup of sugar. The process takes about three months then before the drink is ready so it will make a nice addition to fall drinking and dining.Nectarines can also be cubed and used in salads for color and sweetness. Add them to a grilled chicken salad along with almonds.  It can also be pulverized and added to apple cider vinegar for a sweet dressing or even marinade.

Make nectarines part of your summer diet. They are a sweet, healthy treat on their own along with being wonderful in a variety of sweet and savory dishes. Get a basket of them at your local market or farm stand.

Summer Party Ideas

Summer is the time for entertainment .It's getting friends together and just celebrating the balmy nights or days by the pool.There's even room  to throw in an old fashioned clambake or fish boil. Whichever you choose will always be fun.

Of course there's the barbecue. That American classic will be the backbone of many warm weather gatherings. Give it a more sophisticated turn by serving grilled filet mignon on brioches.For a true lux  idea make a bagna cauda sauce  from anchovies cooked with olive oil, butter and garlic. If you want an even more decadent barbecue, then think burgers made from this expensive cut. Serve with sliced , grilled portobello mushrooms. Another party dish is champagne marinaded chicken. This is mixing the champagne with olive oil, garlic and seasonings and letting it marinate for anywhere from eight hours to overnight, It's grilled for fifty minutes to an hour over hot coals. Lobster can also be grilled too and it's a nice change of pace for a summer get together. Served with asparagus salad and a tomato basil mousse for a truly elegant warm weather party.Don't feel like cooking? Then have it catered. Many restaurants can roast up chickens and even turkeys along with a variety of sides if you;'e throwing a large (anywhere from fifteen to thirty people)They will also set up and supply you with servers too. As for dessert, try an ice cream Charlotte. It's a striking end to any dinner  and all it needs is lady fingers, fresh fruit and vanilla ice cream.The lady fingers are pressed against a spring form pan creating a shell, then  filled with the ice cream and fruit.

If you want something a bit more down to earth then think luau, clambake or fish boil. A luau is a great idea for a pool party. Start with the basics of this South Pacific feast, chicken, fish and pork.If you can try to get luau leaves however surprisingly collard greens can  be a substitute for them. Most luaus use the Hawaiian butterfish againrif you can;t find it in your fish store, then use pompano.A fun crowd pleaser is huli huli chicken, a marinated dish that artfully combines pineapple juice , white wine and soy sauce.Poi is a staple too but it is hard to come by , especially in the continental US , Sub in a mix of mashed banana, lemon juice and coconut cream. Make sure guests have fruity cocktails to sip as well.Clambakes can be fun too, even if you're miles away from any ocean. It's primarily a variety of seafood boiled together. Add what you want .Mussels, clams and lobsters are the most popular. Sometimes whole potatoes are added as is corn. Butter is melted, preferably in an old coffee can  and the seafood and the veggies can be dipped into it. Beer or cider is usually the beverage of choice. A fish boil is the Midwes';s version of a clambake.It's usually whitefish steaks boiled with potatoes and onions.served with a side of melted sweet butter. The meal ends with a cherry or blueberry pie a la mode ad strong, hot coffee.

It is the height of the summer party season. Throw one that suits your tastes. Go elegant or go down home. No matter what you choose, it will be a memorable one with good food and good drink.

An Indonesian Feast

Ramadan is a time of fasting yet after sundown it's a time of feasting. Muslims throughout Indonesia celebrate it with a variety of traditional foods. The holiday nights end with a mix of spicy and sweet, all filling after a day of prayers and austerity.

Tejal Rao wrote about this in Wednesday's New York Times Food section, traveling to Boston to interview chef Retno Pratiwi owner of the pop up restaurant Kaki Lima. She recreated the holiday fare her mother used to make for Eid al-Fitr , also known as Idul Fitri in Indonesia. She and her husband, Peter Geller who used to write for the Times, are passionate about the food of her native Jakarta. They obsess over the authenticity and minute details of their food at the restaurant , named for the food stalls. They traveled back to archipelago of islands located between southeastern Asia and Australia, visiting home chefs, and garnering more recipes from them. They went to the various islands to gather up a variety of different dishes. Recreating them here was difficult, namely in trying to get the exact ingredients. Fresh lemongrass and galangal,a type of ginger are hard to come by as are salam leaves,a variation of bay leaves.Sometimes the couple has to travel down to New York City to get another vital ingredient candle nut , a macadamia type nut. Sometimes they just order from Amazon.

Home chefs can create Chef's Pratiwi's dishes. The article includes opor ayam or Indonesian chicken curry. Some of the ingredients like the galanga root and kafir lime leaves can be hard to find.Again go to Amazon or your local Asian market and see if they have the ingredients there.The rest is attainable such as the chicken and coconut milk along with the coriander and ginger.  The chicken is cooked in the sauce for forty minutes before serving.It' is a labor intensive dish but worth it. The other recipe offered is shrimp and potatoes in sambal. This is a spicy sweet dish that gets its' heat from chile peppers along with Thai bird's eye chilis.. The recipe is a mix of different flavors and textures from the brininess of the seafood to the mildness of the tomatoes and lemon grass. The potatoes are roasted before hand for a nice crunchy texture,. The sambal or sauce is pureed and then sweetened with coconut sugar.The shrimp and potatoes are added to the sauce and cooked for ten minutes.It's served with rice.Again it's worth a trip to the local Asian grocery to stock up on the rarer ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal.

Ramadan is a holiday of fasting and prayer. Yet it is also is nights full of feasting. The Indonesians know how to celebrate with delicious foods, full of flavor and spice.