The Olive OIl Guide

 Olive oil is a vital staple in any home chef's kitchen.It can equally be used in cooking and baking, hot and cold dishes. Yet the right one makes all the difference. It also helps to know how to properly use and store it too.

New contributor and chef Andy Baraghani addresses this in the Cooking 101 article in today's New YorK Times Wednesday Food section along with providing three olive oil rich recipes.Many just pick up a bottle , not really knowing what they're getting. That shouldn't be the case. Look for bottles labeled extra virgin.Keep in mind that there are no globally enforced standards as to what can be labeled "extra-virgin". The oils can be lab and taste tested but that does not always guarantee greatness. That actually depends on the olives. yet Chef Baraghani writes this is a great place to start. Another must is look for a dark container. Usually the ones with a dark green glass bottle is the best. A clear bottle will let in light which will degrade the olive oil. However if the oil is in a clear glass one then just store it in a dark cabinet.Also store it away from the heat which can also affect the taste. The oil needs to be fragrant and fresh so it can release a wide range of flavors when cooked. They should be fruity peppery or grassy.

What else should be investigated when selecting a good olive oil? Chef Baraghani suggests to assess it's origins.When the bottle or label says "Product Of Italy" that doesn't necessarily mean the olives were grown there, only that the oil was processed there.At the store flip the bottle over and look for a single country of origin or a single processor which means the oil was made with a consistent batch of olives. Another must do is smell the oil. The odor can tell a lot about its' state.A great oil should smell green ,fresh and alive.. However even the most aromatic can lose that aroma after a while.If the oil smells bland, then it's best for sauteing, roasting or baking instead of  finishing a dish. Toss it if it smells rancid ro waxy. The recipes  Chef Baraghani gives are perfect for a good oil. There is the brunch perfect olive oil and chili fried eggs .This is an easy dish to make for any novice home chef. There's also olive oil poached tuna with a garlic aoili. The fish is aromatic with onions and chili. The confit from this is used to make a homemade mayo rich with garlic. There is also a  and olive oil honey miso dressing perfect for a salad loaded with grilled chicken.

Any and every home chef should know a good olive oil. It makes for better tasting recipes , full of flavor and aroma. Look for it the next time food shopping.

A Lesser Type Of Truffle

Truffle lovers should rejoice.There is a lesser form of the fungi,called the Burgundy Is it as good as the ones found inPiedmontese"s foothills? that depends on how they're made and who you talk to. New York Times Dining contributor,Elaine Sciolino explored them in today"s Letter From Paris.She interviewed Didier Chabert ,the man behind this fungi.According to him the Burgundy truffle is just as flavorful and rich as what you"d find in Northern Italy. in looks there is resemblance.Both have the same pebbly black color along with the same range of sizes from golfball to baseball.As it matures, however the Burgundy's flesh turns black just like that of the black truffle. It is also one fourth the cost? The low price makes it affordable,good for truffle lovers and especially restaurants.Even French home chefs can take advantage of this cheaper version, yet many do not. Why won't the French take to this Economy model? Two reasons, the aroma and the taste.Truffles have a mix of different scents, from soil ,garlic and sweat.They can also smell like onions , hazelnuts and even pheromones.The Burgundy has a sweeter aroma, and less pungent.It also loses it's" taste in cooking.The best way to eat them is freshly harvested and raw, according to Monsieur Chabert.It may just need a little fleur du sel to bring out the flavor.Yet they are better than what the Chinese are importing to France.The newly imported to France Asian variety have been chemically treated and leave a burning sensation in the stomach for two days afterwards. What is the best truffle.The original from Piedmomte! Yet if you can't afford it then go for the Burgundy version.Is a lesser form of luxury.