Friday, January 15, 2021

Nigella's Panzanella's Recipe

 Nigella Lawson has a slew of interesting recipes sent to her fans and foodies every day. One caught my eye - her panzanella recipe. This is Neopolitan bread salad, chewy and dense,a flavorful throwback to summer. I had to make it. I gave it some tweaks and made it my own.

It starts with a dense chewy bread like Italian or sourdough. I chose a chunky Italian loaf.

This was perfect for ripping into thick pieces, sort of like stuffing. Use half a loaf for an average sized salad.
It was then time for the tomatoes.
While Nigella uses beefsteak ones, I like the deep rich taste of the vine ripes. I cut up six tomatoes 
It was then mixing the two with a good half cup of olive oil and a fraction of a capful of red wine vinegar. Ms. Lawson also throws in a pinch of sugar but I don't like the taste or the idea of it. I omitted it as I did the chopped onion and garlic. Instead I used the powdered versions which gave the salad a lighter taste.
Everything was mixed and then placed in the fridge for a couple of hours. Nigella's panzanella is chilled overnight in the fridge which is great for summer. This is winter and a few hours did it. The bread and tomatoes were nicely soaked, and still chewy.

I added a sprinkle of oregano for some color and a dash of more flavor.


                                             it worked perfectly and there was very little left - unlike other salads.

                                   It's good as is but you can add in anchovies, olives, or shrimp if you want. it's a salad that can be customized.

 This panzanella salad is the perfect cure for those suffering from the winter blues. Try this version of Nigella Lawson's summery dish.It's a kiss of warm weather during chilly times.

Thursday, January 14, 2021

A Vital Miami Fish Market

 Now more than ever we need our markets. They not only provide us with food but also with the comforting fact  that they're still around. That's the case with Plaza Seafood in Miami. It's a hub of activity , with it still selling different kids of fish to loyal customers. It's  a comfort shop to homes chefs.

The New York Times Food section provided a pictorial for this well known market in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Regular contributor Brett Anderson interviewed the various shoppers while Scott MCIntyre took a variety of interesting photos. Plaza is a small market  but's it;s constantly packed with a never ending stream of customers.They come not just for the filleted fish and conch, the last popular  in Florida and the Caribbean but also for fried fish, conch soup, and seafood empanandas .These are similar to what the owner, John Pitaluna  ate growing up on in Havana. His family moved to Hialeah Gardens, north of Miami in the 1980's and he kept the recipes going strong. Now they can be passed down to his son, Adrian, 21 who also works at Plaza. He's been keeping tabs on what sells the most. It's conch , meat from an over sized sea snail, mainly from Turks and Caicos along with the Bahamas.it can be put into chowder like clams and fried like oysters. Yellowtail from the Florida Keys and Mexico is also popular.

Miami, like any other city , is full of different neighborhoods. Inhabitants find out about Plaza and come, bringing their need to the   Allapattah section also called Little Santo Domingo.  It was a neighborhood where there was always affordable rents and everyone was welcome.  That's fading now thanks to the area gentrifying. Yet Miami's diversity is still strong as seen in the customers. There is Haitian Carline Saintlimond who bought shellfish for a seafood boil along with buying red snapper and grouper. Haitians use all sorts of fruits and spices to flavor. Chinese born Yang Zhao and Wendy Liu came from Orlando to buy lobster tails  that they'll grill along with shrimp and bream steamed in garlic and soy sauce.There are also loyal customers like Arnita Pace drove half ah hour for yellowtail snapper, live blue crabs and Gulf shrimp. For her it's also a family thing because her sisters also buy their food at Plaza.Plaza Seafood also helps family in times of grief too. Eccleston Aitcheson and his sons, Angelo and Michael, bought king snapper and yellowtail for Jamaican escovitch,a fish dish that's spiked with Scotch Bonnet peppers , onion , carrots and vinegar sauce. It was going to be made in honor of his dad Talmon who died December 30th. It was his favorite dish.

Plaza Seafood is one of those comfort stores that we need right now. It's a staple in Mimai, but it could be a fishmonger in any city in this country or anywhere in the world. It gives regulars a sense of security while providing delicious fish.,


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Wednesday, January 13, 2021

A Korean Pancake That Has Everything

 It's always a good thing to clean out the fridge.Yet don't throw out those odds and ends. There's a recipe that can make good use of them. A jeon or Korean pancake is a great way to use all those bits and pieces leftover.it's also a tasty snack or lunch too.

The great chef J. Kenji Lopez-Alt wrote about this Korean staple and fun food in today's new York Times Food section.  Jeons are kind of like egg foo yung save there's a flour base instead of eggs. You can basically put any kind of add in into the batter.As Chef Lopez-Alt points out they're basically made from wheat flour and cornstarch. It's the extras that make it. They can be stuffed with squid, oysters and scallions or with mung beans and pork as in nokdu jeon.  These savory pancakes can be made of wild green onions and a thin egg batter like Busan, Korea's Dongnae pajeon. It can also be flavored with kimchi, spicy fermented cabbage and gochugaru, Korean hot pepper flakes. One of the best that Chef Lopez-Alt has eaten was at  Manhattan's Hanjan where chef Hooni Kim shallow fried scallions, ramps chives and squid in a thin batter of cornstarch, flour, egg yolk, baking powder and water. You can use this batter mixture with different ingredients like cherry tomatoes and spinach, leftover broccoli rabe and kale. You can also sub in starches for the flour. Egg whites will cause the jeon to rise like a puffy omelet while using only yolks will tenderize them, Baking soda and /or carbonated water will give them lacier edges and a puffier interior.

Chef Lopez Alt gives his recipe, born from having sauerkraut left over in fridge. It had fermented to the point where upon opening it hissed and bubbled at him. There's also a red onion for sweetness and scallions. Add cherry peppers or pepperoncini for color and bite. Use sauerkraut and also a quarter cup of its' juice. Chef Lopez-Alt says ice cold water is a must and keep mixing to a minimal. As for the oil used, use either peanut, rice bran or soybean oil for frying. A wok is preferred for frying but a skillet also works too. The sauerkraut and its' juice are mixed with the the rest of the ingredients until there is no more dry parts. The pancakes are then fried. He also gives two variations . One is a kimchi, cabbage and mushroom one , rife with stir fried or sauteed cremini or shiitake mushrooms and the gochugaru instead of the peppers. The second is garlicky zucchini and carrots. The veggies are mandolined into thin matchsticks and then placed in a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl for fifteen minutes. The liquid is a sub in for the sauerkraut juice. In place of the peppers, used four minced garlic cloves. There is a dipping sauce for all three, made with soy sauce, rice vinegar, scallions,  granulated sugar and  toasted sesame oil.

If you want to clean out your fridge, make jeon, These pancakes  are a delicious ways to use whatever odds and ends you have. You can be creative  , with a can if sauerkraut or an array of fresh veggies. Have fun with this crispy flavorful treat.


Tuesday, January 12, 2021

A Winter Classic Gone Vegan

 Winter means ones thing - a lot of grilled cheese sandwiches. Yet what happens when you forgo dairy? Sub in with good vegan ingredients. You'll still get the same taste without the real thing.

I love a good grilled cheese but it's impossible  to make in a vegan household. That's when Violife aged non dairy cheese comes in handy.

It's partially hidden by the bread. (I used artesenal instead of white or whole whear). Violife is an unusual  potato starch  and  corn based cheese , coming out of Thessalonika Greece.It's more sold overseas but  it's also in stores like Stop & Shop, Shop Rite and Whole Foods. here in the New York area. The company has everything from feta to different types of cheddar and Colby.
It's important to slather mayo on the bread before grilling or frying so I used Nayonnaise for this.

 You can also use I Can't Believe It's Not Butter or an oat butter like Miyoko's. Mayo helps keep the bread moist during cooking (this is a tip from the New York Times Food section)
Wafer thin tomato slices were then added and the whole sandwich was fried in I Can't Believe It's Not Butter.
  They're very thick sandwiches which made flipping impossible. It was still delicious, especially with the aged cheddar taste of Violife. You can add Morningstar Farms bacon for a different , diner influenced vibe. This can also be the perfect accompaniment to tomato soup.

Vegans can have this classic sandwich. Just use a cheese like Violife and create a warm gooey bite , perfect for these chilly days. It's a great way to eat healthy while still having  flavorful cheesy goodness.


Monday, January 11, 2021

Cooking Tropical

 This is the time of year when many hit the islands, whether the Caribbean or the South Pacific. Unfortunately these are out of reach this year - however home chefs can recreate the islands' famed dishes easily in their kitchens. It's not quite a dinner on a balmy bay, but taste wise ti's close.

The Caribbean  has been one of the most desired winter getaways for over a century. There are around thirty four islands (not counting the tiny islets ) in the Caribbean Sea. It's  a cornucopia of different dishes from Europe, Africa , Asia and what's left of the indigenous culture.it is spicy but with spices easily found in everyone's spice rack. Most dishes include allspice, ginger, cinnamon,nutmeg, clove, garlic and paprika. An easy dish to recreate is rice and peas. This is really more rice and beans and is big in Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic. Cook kidney beans in coconut milk with onion, garlic thyme and salt. The rice is added later and can be eaten on its' own or with jerk chicken. Jerk chicken is another tasty island dish.Jerk is a type of cooking found in Jamaica and can be applied to all sorts of meats. It starts with a marinade of  green onions, garlic, habeneros, and lime juice. To balance this brown sugar and thyme are also used. This is put into a food processor and pureed. The chicken is then placed in a plastic baggie with it for anywhere from three to twenty-four hours. The meat is then baked in a 375 degree oven for thirty minutes. You can also make the fiery Jamaican callaloo with kale or collard greens , tomatoes and Scotch Bonnet peppers. It's usually cooked with salted fish but you could also make it a side too.

On the other side of the world is the South Pacific. This is where islands have turquoise seas and warm balmy nights.It's also where luaus started. it;'s also where the first inhabitants came from the Asian mainland about 3,000 years ago. They brought such staples as bananas, coconuts, sweet potatoes yams and breadfruit. The Europeans later brought, beef, chicken and sheep along with carrots and turnip. Pigs were indigenous and they're a main attraction at all sorts of celebrations and dinner. Try Kalua pork which is a mix of shredded pork butt with cabbage and liquid smoke. You can make this in a slow cooker if you don't have the time.A side dish would be Polynesian cabbage wraps. It's red cabbage stuffed with shredded chicken, brown sugar, and soy sauce along with a host of spices such as chili powder and cumin.Pineapple, lime juice and peanuts top it off. This is the area of dozens of islands so fish and seafood are mainstays. Try French Polynesian shrimp in coconut vanilla sauce. It's a French influenced dish that has rum, cream, coconut milk and vanilla beans, The Tahitians also make their version of ceviche which has raw tuna being cooked in lime juice and then sprinkled with coconut milk. 

You don't have to travel to have good island food. You can easily make these at home. Enjoy them with a cool, frothy drink and pretend you're on the white sand beach beside a turquoise sea.

Saturday, January 9, 2021

The Perfect Stew

 January is a notoriously cold month. What better than to chase that chill than with a good, well made stew. There's something about the blend of veggies and meat with a good gravy. It's the perfect meal for these bone numbing days.

What makes a good stew? It starts with the meat if you're making a meaty one. Get cuts that are very tender and flavorful.If you can't, use a meat mallet to tenderize the beef. The end result is a tender forkful of melt in your mouth goodness. Chuck meat makes the best stew meat which comes from the cow's shoulder. You could use rump meat too even though it's not as tender. It is flavorful though which is a plus for any stew. Some home chefs prefer a good chicken stew during these frosty days. Use only thighs and breasts because they're the most meatiest. Fish stew is a bit different. Several different kinds of fish make for the most flavorful blend. Think a firm white fish like cod or halibut. if you can;t get these, then use tilapia or  red snapper. Steer clear of delicate fish such as sole and oily fish like tuna. You can also throw in some shrimp, clams and scallops for a brinier flavor.  All good stews need vegetables to round out the mix. Try different amounts of onion, chopped celery, carrots and waxy or boiling potatoes. Peas can be added for color and more nutrition. Herbs and spices can also bring out the flavors of veggies and meat. Oregano and bay leave are the most popular but you can also use parsley , basil and rosemary. It's up to you.

There are two ways to cook stew - with a reduction of  gravy  - sort of like au jus or thick like turkey or roast beef gravy, You can add red wine such as with the fancy beef bourguignon. A thin sauce starts with water and beef broth. A thicker one begins with a slurry made from a teaspoon of flour with a little cold water. How to cook the stew is another matter. The old fashioned way is on the stove top for about one and a half hours for beef and only half an hour for chicken. Fish stew is the quickest for only ten to twelve minutes and three to five for a really quick dish. Beef and chicken stews lend themselves to crockpots and Instapots and you can easily cook them in them as you can with another traditional stew  - lamb. What to serve with stew? A  simple green salad with a few grape tomatoes thrown is your best bet. It's a nice side and doesn't take away from the stew.A must is either a crusty bread like a baguette or sourdough. These are perfect for sopping up the gravies. Another idea is making dumplings to cook on top of the stew. These are a mix of flour baking, powder , sugar and butter or margarine. You can add herbs for a more flavorful one. They're cooked on top of the veggies, meat and gravy, producing a tender and fluffy bite.

This is the coldest time of the year. Warm it up with a good hearty stew. Enjoy the savory blend of meat , veggies and hebs.It will warm your heart as well as your stomach.

Friday, January 8, 2021

Ultimate Comfort Foods

 These are truly unsettling times. We need comfort- good food, a good book, a good wine. Mostly it's the first. There's something about indulging in a bite of something delicious and creamy or salty and crunchy. We don't need to eat it every day - just once a week can do it.

What is comfort food? It's basically any favorite dish that fills you with a sense of well being. It's usually high in sugar and/or carbs. Everyday or common comfort foods are tomato soup, meat loaf, chicken and waffles,. pizza and mac and cheese. It could also be a hot fudge sundae or a bowl of your favorite cereal for dinner. What is ultimate comfort food? It's taking it up a notch. Tomato soup can be homemade with fire roasted tomatoes added in.These are easy to make in the air fryer if it's too cold to use the grill. A dollop of pesto also elevates  the classic recipe.Grilled cheese is the usual accompaniment. It;'s good but it cam also be given some zing and oomph. Try sourdough instead of the usual white as the base and use good Vermont or Wisconsin cheddar. You could also sub in Camembert or brie for a creamier bite. A real ultimate grilled cheese is the French croque monsieur. This is a grilled cheese made with Gruyere and ham. You don't have to have the bechamel sauce that goes with it if you're eating it with soup,

What about Mom's meat loaf? You could easily elevate it with strips of bacon crisscrossed over the top or doing a mix of beef and veal. Another lush add in is grated cheese or sauteed mushrooms and onions.  A splash of Cabernet Sauvignon can also give it some oomph.. Chicken and waffles can get a  lift by whipping the egg whites first for a fluffier waffle. Get good Vermont maple syrup for both. You'll taste the difference right away.Pizza is one of the easiest foods to take up a notch. You can easily top it with filet mignon or lobster. It can be topped with shrimp too. These gourmet slices need good Asiago cheese and fire roasted tomatoes to really elevate them. Lobster can be added to mac and cheese too. It's a delicious way to turn this classic casserole into something special. You only need a cup of it. Going overboard with it may get in the way of the cheese. As for that , again, as with the grilled cheese sandwich , go for a good cheese like a Vermont or Wisconsin cheddar. You could also skip the seafood and create a four cheese one. Use  any combination of Asiago, Fontina, Gruyere and Gouda . End with a super special sundae with buttery homemade fudge sauce , layered with raspberries and strawberries over big scoops of Haagen Daz or Ben and Jerry's.

These are tough times. Tough times call for indulging in lush comfort foods that's been taken up a notch. They're a great way of escaping all the craziness that's going on.