A Late Summer Feast

The days of summer are waning.The farmer's markets will be closing within a few weeks. The barbecue closed until the Spring.Before all that happens , enjoy the fresh produce that can accompany a good cut of steak. It's the perfect weekend meal for a lazy September weekend,

The recipes come from David Tanis and Allison Roman from yesterday's New York Times Food section. Mr. Tanis writes in his City Kitchen column about a vegetable salad, good on its' own or with Ms. Roman's steak recipe.It has a variety of different beans from coco to cranberry, along with runner or Romano beans. Mixed  in with is is grilled eggplant to give it a smokey flavor along with  sliced medium and cherry tomatoes.It's a perfect marriage of cooked and raw with the tomatoes being left as is , and served at room temperature. The beans are boiled in a combination of water and olive oil, seasoned with salt and a sprig of thyme and rosemary , or bay leaf if you want a stronger flavor. The eggplant can be cooked over a hot grill,under a hot broiler or in a dry cast iron skillet. The vegetables are dressed with an anchovy vinaigrette which brings  out all the flavors.Another idea is adding anchovy filets and then using a plain vinaigrette to dress the salads. I would add the filets - which also would go well with the steak

Allison Roman's steak comes with an unusual salsa verde. The steak is a hanger cut, recommended by her butcher.With it comes the salsa verde, made with kale, mustard greens, and Swiss chard instead of the usual tomatillos, white onions, and cilantro.The steak is  cooked in a large skillet with canola oil. It's simply seasoned with salt and pepper and seared for three to four minutes on each side until it's completely golden brown..It's then laid on the greens  to "cook them." This wilts and soften the leaves, especially the kale. Ms. Roman advises to let the meat juices mingle with them to create a rich , savory sauce.She suggests serving it with salty potato chips or steak frites, but Mr. Tanis' salad can work well with it too.Hanger steak can be expensive (there's only one per animal)so you could use a thick skirt or flat iron cut. The skirt is a thin long cut of beef from the cow's stomach.It has a rich beefy flavor, that may work better with the salsa verde. The other option is the the flat iron steak, taken from the shoulder.It's a fatty piece with a lot of marbling to it, thanks to its' location. Still it's an excellent piece to pan cook or better yet , slap on the grill for a later summer barbecue.

A perfect late summer meal is a cooked steak with a tasty vegetable salad. Combine Ms. Roman's and  Mr. Tanis' recipes for a delicious meal Make it and enjoy the rich earthy flavors of both.

A Mexican Flavored New Year

The Jewish New Year is  fast approaching .It begins this Monday with traditional foods celebrating the day, with recipes handed down from Eastern European ancestors. However the next generation adds their own spin, using the ingredients and flavors of their adopted country.

This was the subject of Priya Krishna's article about Mexican -Jewish cooking in today's New York Times Food section., She focused on Fany Gershon, the owner of La Newyorkina ,a sweet, shop, and Dough, a doughnut business. Her Mexican heritage shines through in her paleta's and doughnuts  ,redolent with Mexican cocoa, chipotle and cinnamon. It stands to reason that her family recipes also have these flavors as well.As Ms. Krishna points out Jewish and Mexican cuisine couldn't be further apart but as Ms. Gershon pointed out both are very tradition rooted , very proud and very family oriented.Of course the traditional Rosh Hashanah  platter includes apples and honey to insure a sweet new year., a round challah to symbolize the circle of life , pomegranates to signify abundance and fish heads for fresh starts at the head of the year.The Mexican influences is spice added to matzoh ball soup, apple cinnamon challah and a guajillo pepper gefilte fish.

However she still needed help, especially when she threw her first New Year's dinner in New York.Ms. Gershon had to enlist the help of the New York Times  food writer, Joan Nathan., She was excited to learn that Ms. Nathan's recipes and her grandmother's weren't all that different. Over the years the dishes were honed and polished. The first night will be spent with friends at home while the second night she'll cook a Rosh Hashannah meal at her  husband's ,Daniel Ortiz de Montellano at his restaurant , La Publica in the  Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. There will be homemade challah (which kind of is shaped like her cat Leonard.), rich with apples cooked in sugar and cinnamon.Her chicken broth for the matzoh ball soup will include garlic , cilantro and white onions. She uses white ones because they "taste" like Mexico to her. Extra chicken is added to the pot because the leftovers can be used to fill tacos and enchilada. Her store, La Newyorkina will be serving honey , chile infused ice cream instead of honey cake and rugelach that 's spiked with chipotle peppers.

Family recipes are gems to be passed down. Yet there are outside influences that creep in and make them better. It is true for Mexican-Jewish cooking, a marriage of ancient cuisines.

Put Down That Hot Latte

It may be September but it's still summer - and it's still devilishly hot.Thanks to the chain coffee shops, hot pumpkin spice and maple coffees and teas are being shoved down  our throats, despite the high temps. Forget those. Continue with the frosty and refreshing.

Many coffee shops like Starbucks and Dunkin Donuts, have discontinued some of their summer sellers. This is ridiculous. Summer ends in three weeks.We will still have hot,steamy days that require large cups full of something liquid poured over ice.Luckily there are places that still serve coolers. Panera is one of them. You can still enjoy an iced coffee, or better yet, one of their refreshing agua frescas.These are just infusions made with prickly pear or hibiscus, light flavors that are perfect during these steamy days. Despite it pushing its' fall drinks Starbucks actually does still offer cold drinks Luckily they haven't put their popular Cold Brew coffees on the shelf. For those who want to save money, buy yourself a fancy container and make your own iced coffee.It's nice to bring to a soccer game or a later summer Sunday at the beach. A plus about making your own iced brew is that you add anything you want, from a soy or almond milk creamer  to a squirt of chocolate or caramel syrup.

This is not the time for a cup of hot cider.Instead try  apple slices infused in spring water.Slice up a Granny Smith - you could use Roma's or Honeycrisps if you want a sweeter taste and drop in three cups of cold water.For more zing add in a sliced ginger and some lemongrass. It should last up to three days. Want sparkle? Then combine the slices with seltzer. The latest one to hit the shelves is Bubbly, a flavor soaked seltzer that packed with natural juices. Try the Granny Smith slices with the cherry or orange flavors.September  is also the second season for raspberries. Try these gems in either plain or sparkling water.Add one cup of rinsed raspberries and the juice of one lemon to a pitcherful of liquid. Let it sit in the fridge for an hour and then strain out the berries. These can be reused in smoothies. Serve with mint leaves. Mint is also refreshing . Stir in a few leaves  - not a lot otherwise it will taste like mouthwash, and let set for an hour. Strain and serve with a lemon wedge for color.

Don't touch those hot pumpkin spiced lattes.It's still hot. Stick with an icy cold refresher that will take this later summer heat away.

Laboring To Feed Us

Today being Labor Day it's time to honor those who labor to feed us and our families. They include

the migrant farmers living in awful conditions with barely a roof over their heads and primitive bath and eating facilities. They work long hours tending and picking crops that eventually go into our meals.Then there are the supermarket clerks who check out our groceries. Some work five or six hours without getting a break, or only receiving a fifteen minute breather. Thank them every time you’re at their check out. Also honor them .Don’t go to the self checkouts . The more shoppers who do this eliminate the need for these workers. That means their jobs will eliminated and they will lose everything from a paycheck to their pensions.

Labor Day may mean a day off to you, but to waitstaff all over the US  it means a day of work. Granted they get time and a half and tips, but they’d rather spend this summer day with friends and family. They’d rather chill at a barbecue or beach instead of taking your order and serving them. Give them a bigger than usual tip. Keep in mind that busboys, chefs, cooks and fast food employees don’t receive tips. Treat them kindly, and tell them how much you appreciate their hours of work.

This day celebrates America’s work force. Honor those who are responsible for feeding and nourishing you.

Inclusion Dinners

One of the best aspects about kids starting school, is that their world opens up, They get to meet classmates from all sorts pf backgrounds. Even better is when the classmates expand not just your little one's world but yours as well. What better way to do this than throwing an inclusion dinner , featuring the best of of everyone's backgrounds.

Kids will always want their best friends over for lunch or dinner, especially the last.What better way to show your family recipes and traditions. It gives the younger ones as well as their older siblings an open dialog about differences and why our country is proudly called the melting pot.They can discuss their heritage and the different dishes their families make.An excellent idea is expanding the invite to the friend's parents and extended families.Keep in mind dietary restrictions and customs. If the family wants to bring one of their dishes ,let them.It's also a good time for a recipe swap, especially if what you'v served is a hit. Be open to the friend's mother asking questions about cooking and the ingredients. The family may not be familiar with some dishes and curious on how to flavor them. Bring out the spice bottles and let them try the spices you've used. A nice gesture is gifting them with  the spices used in cooking or baking.The friend's family will probably reciprocate with a thank you dinner .

What can you serve? Whatever represents your family's heritage.Keep in mind  that most foods considered US born and created actually came from other places.Also keep in mind if all their family have different beliefs. The kid may want to try a Sloppy Joe or chicken nuggets, however his or her folks may be vegetarian. If that's the case then try Gardein or Morningstar Farms meat free products. Both companies have a large variety of veggie burgers, soy hot dogs, meat crumbles and chicken nuggets.Another idea is incorporating some of the ingredients from their dishes into yours. For example bok choy can be used in salads Garam masala , a staple in Indian cooking can be used in fried chicken batter for a fun and spicy twist.Caribbean spices are not just for jerky or callaloo. Add a teaspoon of it in meat loaf or hamburgers. The idea of incorporating flavors also extends to dessert. Add rose water , usually used in Indian , Greek and Middle Eastern desserts to vanilla pudding or vanilla ice cream.

Tolerance of others begins at home.A meal with a classmate can teach you and your children about inclusion and acceptance. That's the best lesson ever..

Summer's Bounty Still Going Strong

Even though everyone is talking about fall,getting ready for school and Halloween (!) it is still summer.  There  is still time to cook outside and enjoy what's left of the warm weather bounty.Put away anything fallish  - at least for a few weeks.

Tomatoes are the most popular foods of the summer.. With the way our weather is nowadays, the red gems will be growing until October.Take advantage of them in any cooking method possible.One of the easiest and most delicious is pasta crudo. This is simply cut  fresh tomatoes mixed with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil. It's a raw sauce that's "cooked'  when added to hot pasta.Another summer dish that's perfect for this transition period is ratatouille. This Provencale treat is making good use of tomatoes as well as any bumper crop zucchini and onions. Melissa Clark has elevated this recipe to resemble a prettily colored pie in her column A Good Appetite In Wednesday's New York Times' Food section.. Her take was a Southern tomato pie but amped up with caramelized onions and sliced eggplants. It's more of  rich quiche thanks to the egg and Gruyere cheese added.If you just like tomatoes, then make them Provencale . This is a skillet full of sliced tomatoes  sauteed in garlic and olive oil. The tomatoes have generous mounds of spiced breadcrumbs on them.There is also tomato jam for those who want a spicy condiment to their meats and veggies. It's an easy cook, with boiling and simmering Roma tomatoes with such spices as cumin, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves.

Many home gardeners are also reaping those ripe squashes and zucchini right now too. One of the easiest recipe is sauteed squash coins that make a great side to grilled chicken and fish.It's just simply slicing the gourds into half inch thick rounds and sauteing them in a mix of olive oil,butter and minced garlic. Kids will love zucchini boats, the perfect meal after an exhausting first day of school. Make them really fun by adding a lasagna filling with a ready made tomato sauce.It's just scooping out the squash's middle after they've been cut in half, leaving a quarter of an inch of flesh on all sides. After brushing the boats with olive oil. it;'s just layering on the cheese,store bought sauce and ground beef or tofu. The boats can also have a Mexican twist by subbing in the sauce with such spices as chili powder, cilantro and cumin. There may be some peppers growing yet in your garden. These make great snacks, when they're sliced and  deseeded however they're great stuffed with rice and ground beef.Hollow them out , and also add tomato sauce along with Worcester sauce.Garlic and onion powder are added to give it zing.

Don't follow the rest of the crowd.It's still summer. There's still time to enjoy the bounty of this glorious season.

Move Over Red Delicious

There's a new star on the fall cooking horizon - the Gala apple. It's dethroned America's favorite apple the Red Delicious. Yet is it as tasty and versatile as the other? More important can you cook and bake with it? Is it as versatile as other apples?.

This was a subject in today's New York Times news section, by Niraj Choksi, today where the Red Delicious was parsed out analyzed.It seems consumers are disenchanted with its' mild taste and mealy texture, People want something more vibrant in flavor and mouth feel. Galas have a sweeter flavor and a crispier, crunchier texture.Apple  lovers,  home chefs and bakers want one that will be appealing and vibrant.There is another prediction that the Galas will be deththoned by the newest apple on the tree - the Honeycrisp. number five on the most popular  list  -which has only been on the market for thirty years. The tart and sassy Granny Smiths are number three on the list followed by Fuji . The R ed Delicious has been around since the late 1890's, a hybrid evolved from European apple trees.Its' cultivator ,Jesse Hiatt, an Iowa farmer was initially reluctant to grow it ,allowing one tree to thrive on his property.He entered the fruit, which he called Hawkeye into an apple competition and won, He ultimately sold the rights to the Stark Brothers, the contest's hosts . They renamed it Delicious. The red came about to differentiate from the West Virginia Golden Delicious.

For decades the Red Delicious was the star of the fruit world. It was pleasing to look at, with its' distinctive and five pointed base.It became a symbol of America and schools.appearing on all sorts of Americana kitsch. However people were growing dissatisfied with its' mild flavor and limited usage. This is another reason  why the Galas are gaining in popularity is that they're better suited to apple based dishes such as applesauce and homemade juices.Both are OK for snacking although kids may prefer the Galas strong sweetness. Both are juicy and would go well in salads.The Gala is more colorful with its' skin a blend of  yellow and red swirled with pink and orange spots. This would make ti stand out in any tossed green dish.For those who are loyal to the Red Delicious, there are several recipes that highlight their taste.Try them as crispy fritters dusted with cinnamon and sugar or in a buttery, crunchy crisp. Granted, they don't have the impact of say Granny Smith apples when paired with caramel  but the slices are still good dipped in it. They can also be dipped in marscapone cheese, spiked with nutmeg.Red delicious can also go the savory route when sharing a plate with pork chops

Will the Red Delicious apple ever be number one again? Maybe- of cultivators can improve on its' taste or texture. It could even come in on its'own again once people tire of the upstart Gala variety.