Christmas Eve And Sore Feet

This will be a short entry. Being the main cook here in Pantry land I am everything from chief sauce maker to chief dish washer.  I managed to recreate my Nonna's gnocchi and homemade sauce with a side of fennel - artichoke salad and a caponata spread. As any home chef will tell you , cooking is grueling work, especially if you have no help. Yet you persevere. It's kind of like running a marathon, from first chopping the onion and garlic for the sauce to serving the finished dish on the holiday table.

I am looking forward to later - a chilled glass of sparkling peach wine, sipped with my feet up and encased in my footie pajamas (and yes I still wear jammy onesies). Tomorrow is Christmas and a day to make Eggs Florentine for a Christmas brunch and a Spanish tapas for a light holiday supper.

Happy feasting  and cooking..Treat the cook well. Its a lot of work creating holiday meals.

Holiday Luxe Eating

This is the time of year when you can treat yourself to some culinary luxuries. It could be caviar on a Ritz or a buttery Christmas cookie. Or a big bubbly flute of good champagne. Or even a sundae with all the works. Give your palate a holiday vacation to rich flavors and foods.

Again caviar is always a lush treat. Most grocery stores sell it, even Costco  has tins of it.There are four different types. There is the lightly salted or the Malossol method that is only 3.5% salt., followed by the semi preserved kind  which contains 8 %  salt. ,Pressed caviar is made from damaged or broken eggs, highly salted and jamlike in consistency . The cheapest and most affordable is the pasteurized kind which is heat treated and vacuum packed. Serve on butter rounds of French bread or Ritz crackers wash it down with a good champagne like Asti Spumente or Bollinger Special Cuvee from France's Marne valley. Another affordable luxe brand is Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve. These are in the price range of about $50.00. Finish this meal with well made macarons.Many bakeries now sell them however you can make them yourself, using ground almonds flour and egg whites to create lovely little luxe puffs. Another luxurious baked treat is the French brioche. This is a egg and butter rich yeast roll that is just pure heaven to have. Again these can be made at home or bought at your local French patisserie.

Of course luxe dining could mean a good steak too. Nothing beats a well cooked filet mignon , seasoned with butter, salt and pepper. The same goes for a juicy T bone steak. my idea of luxe is steak PIedmontese style. This involved cooking filet migon in a bagna calda , a mouth watering  anchovy bath rich with the fish, oil and garlic.Another lush meat idea is pheasant.This is actually a low calorie bird with a flavor that's between chicken and turkey. Some butchers will sell it , but mostly you can get it from on line pheasant farms.If you want to try vegan luxury , then go for truffles. These are smoky in flavor and can be bought at online gourmet food stores.  The average price is around $80.00. some . Big cities like New York and Los Angeles do have stores that will sell this fungi fresh and even truffle oil for cooking. If you can't afford any of these, then treat yourself to some good chocolate. Belgian chocolate is the most coveted however the American Godiva brand is delicious and affordable as well.Buy their ultra rich  box of chocolate truffles or even a foil wrapped Santa as a midnight snack.

Give your palate a rich holiday treat. It could be sweet or savory , as long as it's lush and flavorful. Enjoy it . Savor every nibble , sip and bite.

Your Holiday Menu Checklist

Christmas is only a few scant days away and home chefs all over the world should be stocking up on essentials and ingredients. It's always good to be prepared. It's no fun to run short or remember you've forgotten to buy an important ingredient.Be aware of what you have and what you need.

By now home chefs should have the main course either in the fridge or the freezer.No one ever forgets to buy the  turkey or the prime rib. However some sides do get second , sometimes third billing, Ask yourself , will your sides satisfy the entire table.If you have big eaters, or those who love green bean casserole or sweet potatoes, then stock up. Get double the amount of what you need. The worst thing is to go short. Also have alternatives for those who don't get excited over mashed potatoes or petit pois. Another must is factor in the vegans and vegetarians. They're not going to want that turkey leg or slab of London Broil.Have a tofurkey and mushroom gravy ready for their Christmas dinner.Make sure there are enough rolls too. Everyone loves these with the dinner and afterwards as sandwiches. Ditto for butter and margarine too. These last two will be gone fast between using them for cooking and as accompaniments for the bread. As minor as they are, salt and pepper,along with salt substitutes , should be plentiful as well. Like butter and margarine, they serve a double purpose .

Home bartenders should also make sure that the liquor cabinets are well stocked.Guests will probably bring a bottle wine which is good for a small party, yet make sure you have enough for those big family gatherings of ten and twenty. Also have enough soda and juice for the kiddie table as well as plain and flavored seltzers for non drinkers.There should also be enough coffee and tea  for dessert as well. Keep plenty of creamer ready too, and milk.Without a doubt, there will be plenty of desserts to choose from. If you're planning on serving pie, then  have a can or two of whipped cream all set for topping. Also set out a platter of seasonal fruit and nuts for those who are watching their diets or just aren't into rich endings. Have paper plates  along with plastic containers ready for those who would like to bring home leftovers.

It pays to be prepared, especially in the kitchen.Have everything you need and then some for your Christmas dinner. It beats frantically running to your grocery store five minutes before your guests arrive,

Dolce Per Natale

Christmas is primarily a German invention , giving us traditional foods and sweets. Yet it's the Italians who have given us some of the best desserts for the holidays. Theirs is a fun and flavorful , with rich ingredients and ancient recipes. Both adults and children enjoy everything from the colorful strufoli to sophisticated  torrone.

Italian and Italian American households go into a baking overdrive when December rolls around. They don't go cookie crazy as other countries do for the holiday. They create interesting sweets or dolce that are culinary masterpieces.Every  Neopolitan has a cherished handed down strufoli recipe.This is made with small puffs of citrus flavored dough that has been fried in vegetable oil.After frying and draining, the balls are then coated with a warm honey syrup and piled into pyramids (the size depends on how many strufoli have been made),I the same vein as a croquembouche.They are dusted with multicolored sprinkles but they can also be dusted with confectioner's sugar, silver dragees or almond slivers.Pizzelle, which could be classified as a cookie, is a light airy waffle. It is one of the most ancient of desserts and is made with a simple batter of just eggs, butter , flour and sugar. Popular flavorings include anise, vanilla and lemon. This is the perfect antidote for all those heavy Christmas snaps and gingermen.Any sweet tooth can eat a pile of them and not feel loggy afterwards.

The Sicilians are also known for their Christmas sweets. One favorite is buccellato,  Christmas fig cake.It's a ring filled with a fruit paste of dried figs and walnuts, along with chocolate , cinnamon and cloves.It is also made for a baby's baptism and given to the family by the godparents. Another favorite,(and my personal one) is pandoro, Translated into golden bread, this is a rich eggy and buttery yeast cake from the city of Verona. It's deep yellow coloring comes from the seven egg yolks added to the dough. It is baked in a star shaped pan and dusted with confectioners sugar. The middle can be hollowed out and filled with flavored whip cream or marscapone. You could also add some berries , diced fruit or even pomegranate seeds.Sliced pandoro can even be made into French toast as an sophisticated Christmas brunch.Its' cousin, panettone, is from Milan, and is similar in shape and flavor. It differs only in the fact that it contains citrons, candied cherries and raisins and makes for  nice breakfast toast. Little bricks of torrone is also given out .This is an airy nougat  made solely from honey, egg whites and nuts and comes to Italy from Spain.There are two versions, soft and hard, both are very tasty and a nice departure from all the chocolate served during this time of year.

Italy knows how to celebrate Christmas. It's contribution of sweets is dazzling and delicious . They reflect the different influences and regions that makes its holiday traditions unique

Holiday Helpers

The holidays bring about some of the worst stress for home chefs and bakers. There's never enough time to cook or bake. Quantities of food have to be doubled, thanks to family and friends visiting. There is a solution Holiday help in the form of already prepared foods and ingredients. These aid considerably in creating the perfect Christmas dinner and dessert.

One of the best ideas is to rely on your supermarket for party platters. Chains like the  A&P and Stop & Shop provide excellent ones with shrimp and sandwiches. Extras such as cocktail sauce along with  cups of mustard and mayo are always included too. A prepared platter of crudites can serve as a quick antipasto, freeing you up to concentrate on the main meal.A few places, like Popeye's, can help with offering to deep fry a whole turkey. If you're hosting a large crowd then contact a diner or restaurant owner, ask them to roast  your roast beef, ham or turkey. For  those too busy to bake, then it's a trip to the local bakery.Here you can buy an attractive cookie tray that has all kinds, including the coveted chocolate dipped ones, for the chocolate lovers in your family. Also some supermarkets such as Stop & Shop have beautifully iced and decorated holiday cakes and whimsical cakes makes out of cupcakes, This last is always a crowd pleaser, especially for the kids.

If you're still intent on doing it all for yourself, then look for short cuts.Again this is where convenience over convention wins out.Don't be afraid to serve Stovetop stuffing. It tastes  just as good as the family recipe and  also works just as well sopping up gravy, Don't sweat the mashed potatoes. There are the instant kind  and they come in different flavors too,like chive and butter and garlic. Baked ham does deserve a side of baked beans but you can use the canned type instead. .Guests always love a basket of fresh hot rolls with their  meal, yet baking them can be trying, especially if there are time constraints. If that's the case,  then get reacquainted with Poppin Fresh. PIlsbury has excellent biscuits and crescent rolls that go well with any holiday roast. They also have breadsticks, perfect for those also serving lasagna and pasta as part of the Christmas meal. You can also depend on them for cookies too. Buy a few rolls or squares of the already made chocolate chip cookie dough. Also buy the sugar cookies too. These are great blank canvasses for festive decorating. If you're intent on cake for dessert, remember think mixes, already made icing and |Cool Whip.

Holiday meals are meant to be outstanding. However if you need help then get it in the form of prepared platters or packaged goods.. These can assist you in creating the perfect Christmas dinner , complete with a fancy dessert.

Porchetta For The Holidays

Porchetta  is a nice change of pace from the usual Christmas turkey and ham.If done in the savory Tuscan style it takes a plain shoulder cut to another level of deliciousness. It's a great departure from the standard pork roast, , this one is full of spicy flavor and tender cuts.

Melissa  Clark wrote about it in her A Good Appetite column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Her recipe is for a crowd but it could easily work for a Christmas or New Year's Eve dinner or on New Year's Day, with a side of polenta and broccoli rabe. Ms. Clark recommends  using a pork shoulder which is the easiest to cook. She prefers bone in shoulder but a boneless one is good too. The goal is to have a crunchy, aromatic top layer of crackling with tender, juicy meat underneath.There are two ways of cooking it . Braise the meat in liquid first and then crisp the skin.Another method is to roast low and slow and then turn up the heat at the end. Ms. Clark recommends starting off with a high heat until the fat under the skin starts to render and then let it finish cooking at a low heat.It is usually ready after 30 minutes in a 400 degree oven.

What makes the porchetta different from other roasts are the spices and herbs that coat it. You start off scoring the fat to better hold the mix. Fennel fronds and seeds are used for sweetness which will compliment's the meat's flavor.These are crushed with rosemary , sage ,garlic along with salt.Red pepper is also added for some zing and bite. Salt and black pepper are also thrown in as well as some lemon zest..Pour in olive oil to create a mash.Liberally rub  the finished producall over the roast, ,making sure it is rubbed into the scored sections.Boneless cuts need to be tied up as well. Both need to be put into a covered bowl and left to marinate either overnight or for at least six hours. You can use oregano and top with orange slices for a more authentic roast. It should be served with a chilled champagne as Eric Asimov of the Pour section recommended,

Porchetta is a great holiday roast to make and to serve. It is savory with the  fun plus of a tasty crackling and a tender flesh underneath. Make it and enjoy the blend of pork juices mixed with aromatic herbs and spices.

A Culinary Trip To Korea

It's nice to take a break from the usual holiday fare. It's refreshing to have sushi or egg rolls, however after a while they too become stale or predictable. It's time then to try Korean food. It's a break from the usual Asian based fare with it's diversity of flavors, ingredients and textures. There's something for everyone from the meat lover to the sushi enthusiast.

Pete Wells, senior writer, at the New York Times Wednesday Food section went on an extensive  culinary tour of the Korean section in Flushing Queens. This borough of New York City is home to one of the largest Asian communities outside of Asia itself. Primarily known for its' large population of Chinese immigrants, it is also  gaining a sizeable Korean population as well.It is easily accessible both by car ,subway and bus  (although Manhattan too has good Korean restaurants) Mr. Wells sampled all the national dishes from kim chi to bulgoki,One of the best known dishes is kalbi or Korean barbecue. This is a marinated short rib that he sampled at Mapo Korean BBQ.The ribs are cut from the best, Black Angus and marinated for a long time until tender.It's best eaten in crispy squares and is one of the most flavorful in all the boroughs. For barbecued pork he suggests KangHo Dong Baekjeong. The owner  Kang Ho Dong.,a former Korean wrestler, comedian and variety show host  grills a pork collar, basically the pig's neck with sweet soy marinade.He also serves an unusual mix of eggs and corn with a cheese topping.Both dishes are very popular and are his signature dishes

One of the hallmarks of Korean cuisine is chicken,The Koreans have embraced friend chicken and elevated it to haute cuisine, especially at the restaurant ,aptly named Mad For Chicken.It is Mr Wells favorite chicken because of the way the crust is, puffy and golden, hovering just above the flesh,.It comes with a savory garlic sauce for dipping. Seafood lovers can go to Bada Story to try hwe or Korean sashimi.The Korean version is all about the texture which is crunchy and snappy along with being chewy. Interestingly enough, Bada Story starts off with fried fish fingers along with an on point seafood pancake.The highlight, though, is fluke draped over frosty ceramic cups , a textural combo of chewy and melty.Unlike the Chinese or Japanese, the Korean make a blood sausage.It is called soondae and it's actually pork casing filled with vermicelli.Pork blood is added for flavor and it can be eaten with chile salt as a tasty snack. They also are fond of black goat, which is first served with a chili paste and then , the leftovers are turned into a soup to be served as a second course.There's also rice porridge at Bon Juk and the traditional noodle fare at Geo Si Gi.

Take a break from the usual holiday fare with Korean. It is hearty enough for a winter's night but fun for an evening out with friends.It's a variety of meats and flavors, with a dose of heat and sweet on the side,