A Culinary Trip To Korea

It's nice to take a break from the usual holiday fare. It's refreshing to have sushi or egg rolls, however after a while they too become stale or predictable. It's time then to try Korean food. It's a break from the usual Asian based fare with it's diversity of flavors, ingredients and textures. There's something for everyone from the meat lover to the sushi enthusiast.

Pete Wells, senior writer, at the New York Times Wednesday Food section went on an extensive  culinary tour of the Korean section in Flushing Queens. This borough of New York City is home to one of the largest Asian communities outside of Asia itself. Primarily known for its' large population of Chinese immigrants, it is also  gaining a sizeable Korean population as well.It is easily accessible both by car ,subway and bus  (although Manhattan too has good Korean restaurants) Mr. Wells sampled all the national dishes from kim chi to bulgoki,One of the best known dishes is kalbi or Korean barbecue. This is a marinated short rib that he sampled at Mapo Korean BBQ.The ribs are cut from the best, Black Angus and marinated for a long time until tender.It's best eaten in crispy squares and is one of the most flavorful in all the boroughs. For barbecued pork he suggests KangHo Dong Baekjeong. The owner  Kang Ho Dong.,a former Korean wrestler, comedian and variety show host  grills a pork collar, basically the pig's neck with sweet soy marinade.He also serves an unusual mix of eggs and corn with a cheese topping.Both dishes are very popular and are his signature dishes

One of the hallmarks of Korean cuisine is chicken,The Koreans have embraced friend chicken and elevated it to haute cuisine, especially at the restaurant ,aptly named Mad For Chicken.It is Mr Wells favorite chicken because of the way the crust is, puffy and golden, hovering just above the flesh,.It comes with a savory garlic sauce for dipping. Seafood lovers can go to Bada Story to try hwe or Korean sashimi.The Korean version is all about the texture which is crunchy and snappy along with being chewy. Interestingly enough, Bada Story starts off with fried fish fingers along with an on point seafood pancake.The highlight, though, is fluke draped over frosty ceramic cups , a textural combo of chewy and melty.Unlike the Chinese or Japanese, the Korean make a blood sausage.It is called soondae and it's actually pork casing filled with vermicelli.Pork blood is added for flavor and it can be eaten with chile salt as a tasty snack. They also are fond of black goat, which is first served with a chili paste and then , the leftovers are turned into a soup to be served as a second course.There's also rice porridge at Bon Juk and the traditional noodle fare at Geo Si Gi.

Take a break from the usual holiday fare with Korean. It is hearty enough for a winter's night but fun for an evening out with friends.It's a variety of meats and flavors, with a dose of heat and sweet on the side,

Hanukkah Spins

Hanukkah starts tonight and with it eight days of feasting and enjoying time honored recipes. Some of the main ones , such as latkes and sufganiyot reflect the miracle of the oil in the temple. Other dishes celebrate the victory over the Maccabees and what the widow Judith served.Some are more modern, drawing on current American trends. All in all , it makes for holiday eating  with a story to tell.

One of the most well known is the potato pancake, or the latke. It's origins come from the victor , Judith who killed Holoferne,  served cheesecakes (Not the modern kind that's laden with all sorts of fruits and chocolate). They were replaced with potatoes, eaten mostly by Ashkenazi Jews from Eastern Europe. The patties are labor intensive but worth it. If you want a spin, then try Dr, Mayim Bialik's (The Big Bang' Theory's  . Amy Farrah Fowler) root vegetable one .These have shredded zucchini and sweet potatoes along with red onions for sharpness, crunch and flavor. Russet potatoes are used as a base.. These can still be served with sour cream for the entire holiday experience.Home chefs have added their spins. Some use shredded parsnips with the potatoes, while others swear by apple chunks - which is  a twist on serving them with applesauce. Also if you plan on making them more than once this Hanukah , then try variations such as sweet potato with cinnamon. If you still want tradition but something zingy then add some rosemary and sea salt to the batter. Also sprinkle fresh ground sea salt and pepper on the latkes as they're draining.

Jelly doughnuts are another Hanukah favorite. These are super popular in Israel where they're filled with the traditional raspberry jam along with vanilla, chocolate and cappuccino creams. Called sufganiyot; they are a yeast doughnut first "stuffed" with usually the raspberry but sometimes also with apricot jam. Confectioners sugar is then  liberally sprinkled on them as they 're draining and cooling. Fillings can be updated to suit a younger generation's taste. Some home bakers now  fill theirs with Nutella (which is Kosher) and even cranberry  stuffed in a pumpkin doughnut. You could also try it as a giant baked doughnut with filling too. Fried honey balls are also made,, popularly called loukomades to represent what the Greek born Maccabees ate. They're also called bimuelos and eaten more by the Sephardic Jews of Spain. Cinnamon is either added to the honey based syrup or the balls are rolled in them after frying.Some American Sephardim serve them with a side of pancake syrup as opposed to honey.

Hanukah is a time for remembering the victory over the Maccabees and the miracle of the oil. The dishes reflect both the rich Jewish heritage and changing tastes. These treats are both modern and traditional along with being tasty.

Polenta- from Fancy To Plain

It's amazing how corn meal is so versatile. Polenta can go from ultra fancy and sophisticated to cozy and homey. You can make it for a crowd or just for yourself.It's a quick meal whether for  lunch dinner or even breakfast.

Polenta is basically grits done Italian style.It was originally made from barley and chickpeas. until the 1600s when corn or maize was introduced to Italy.Polenta is a slow cooking mash , usually taking forty five minutes to almost an hour.The texture depends on the amount of water added. Less will give you a chewier texture while more will impart a silky, almost porridge like feel in the mouth .Always add salt to the boiling water. One of the homiest is polenta in a bowl, liberally laced with butter and Parmesan. It's a simple lunch or dinner. perfect after a night of holiday feasting.Another idea is using it as a base for chicken caccciatore. This is just chicken breasts or even vegan soy chicken strips with a tomato and mushroom gravy on top. Leftover polenta is good , fried in pieces and served with eggs sunnyside up. The two are cooked together to make a kind of corny frittata.

Polenta can easily go elegant. You can buy polenta logs and slice them into rounds.Try them laden with sliced wild mushrooms mixed with cream cheese and spices. For a different spin on party elegance served them topped with vegan caviar which is a mix of quinoa and capers. You can also top the mini cakes with the real thing and a dollop of crème fraiche. A fun appetizer is a mini polenta bite topped with goat cheese and sundried tomatoes.Polenta can also be great at an intimate party of four or six. Make a bake with it, layering the mash with fontina cheese and mushrooms. Since it's so complex in flavor , serve it with  simple green salad and white wine. Polenta is actually a great side with chili because it's blandness is a great foil to the other's spiciness.

Polenta is just so versatile. Have it all to yourself , in a steamy bowl , sprinkled with cheese or as a party round with a fancy topping. It's a great ingredient , fitting all your culinary needs.

Your Themed Holiday Party

What better than heading to an exotic place for the holidays .There are  aromas, spice laden and rich, different foods, just waiting to be tried,However you  don't have to go around the world for couscous or gravlax. You can have a themed food holiday party, celebrating a country's cuisine. It could reflect your ethnic heritage or be one you're fascinated by. Just make it fun, tasty and different

Of course one of the most exotic is Moroccan cuisine. It's highly spiced, fragrant and different.Treat your guests to couscous, one of Morocco's most famous dishes. This is a Berber dish of steamed semolina with any kind of meat or veggie stew ladled over it.Try a spicy lamb one , seasoned with cinnamon and cardamom and for seafood lovers  one with cod. Another dish , perfect for a get together is a tangine, This is a slow cooked savory stew which could also be served with couscous. Luckily tangine can be cooked up  in you pressure cooker because it requires four to five hours of slow cooking. Ingredients are a mix of sweet and savory . Dates are cooked with lamb and spices .You can also make a vegan one with tomatoes and carrots or olives and mixed veggies. For more authenticity you can add a heavy sprinkling of almonds on top. Chinese food is another party favorite, however stay away from the ho hum egg rolls and fried rice. Try a Szechuan buffet instead.The dishes are bold and fiery ,thanks to the use of the Szechuan pepper huajiaao.Szechuan hot pot is the perfect party dish. Imagine a big pot of everything from wontons to dumplings to seafood.One of the most delicious is tea smoked duck. This is  delicately spiced duck that can be cooked and even smoked in a home wok. It's served in melt in paper thin slices that melt in your mouth.

England may not be the first place you think of for exotic or even exotic food. Yet their Christmas party foods are fun and tasty.  Remember all those dinners you've seen on Downton Abbey? You can sort of recreate them for your guests. Roast turkey and ham for guests along with setting up a carving table,If this is too much , then  ask your local diner to do all the cooking or roast one meat while a friend or relative can help out by roasting the other. Mini mince pies are always a fun treat as are sausage rolls and Cornish pasties.End the night with a flaming plum pudding, alit with a good dose of brandy. Also give out crackers, those holiday favors that are filled with a paper crown, a prize and a corny joke,Scandanavians know how to throw a tasty holiday get together, Make a plate of kottbullar or the famed Swedish meatballs. These are a yummy mix of veal, pork and beef. Milk soaked bread crumbs are added for body.Gravlax is another treat. This is cured North Atlantic salmon that s brined in sugar , salt and dill.It's served on rye toast rounds  which can be buttered. Have it with the fiery Aquavit for a holiday toast. Finish with the tradition of seven cookies, including a take on the holiday ginger snap , the heart shaped Peperkakor

Travel the world for your holiday party. Enjoy the fiery cuisine of the Szechuan provence or the sultry spices of Morocco.Nibble mince pies from England or gingerbread cookies from Sweden. It's a fun way to celebrate the season with a culinary tour.

Holiday Classics

Holiday classics this time of year may include Frosty  and Rudolph but  they also include chestnuts and Jello.

Jello???? Yes, it and so many other basics are the start of many a holiday dish. They're also comfort food and what's a holiday without that.

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire is a classic, in particularly a New York one.They're everywhere in Manhattan The tradition started centuries ago on London and Parisian streets as well. You can roast them at home. using a perforated metal pie plate for stovetop cooking. Cut an X on the tops to release steam or they'll explode. Their taste is sweetly intense so you really don't need any seasonings. They're a nice accompaniment to popcorn at a tree trimming party.as for popcorn itself, nothing  beats the old fashioned way on the stove in a sturdy pot.Use 1/3 cup cooking oil or coconut oil to 1/2 cup of kernels. The pot should be warmed before the oil is even added. It should be shaken every now and them so each kernel is evenly coated in oil. Butter is always recommended for that old fashioned movie theater taste. .Melt it right after  the popcorn is popped , preferably in the same pot where you cooked the popcorn. For caramel use butter , again, brown sugar, corn syrup and salt to start with Baking soda and a touch of vanilla finish it off . Pour over the popcorn until every kernel is coated , cool and then munch.

As for Jello, it's really is a holiday classic. You can do a cheesy fun dessert with red and green cubes . Serve with Cool whip  dusted with gold and silver sanding sugar for a sparkly spin.Surprisingly it can also be made into sophisticated sweets  for elegant holiday parties.TRy a light and airy Key Lime Cloud Square which is  a combo of lime Jello, cream cheese and CoolWhip. It's a perfect end if you're having a chicken and champagne dinner party.A fun and creative dessert are Jello stained glass bars  which require four  flavors of it along with a mix of plain  gelatin and condensed milk. There's no baking with this which makes it super easy to make, Jello salads are the holiday buffer must have and actually standard.Try them with any kind of fruit as a sweet side to casseroles. Miracle Whip and Philadelphia Cream cheese are also holiday classics, being used in everything from crab spread to cheesecake,You can make yummy salads using leftover holiday  roasts and Miracle Whip.

This is the season for holiday classics. It could be a plate of steamed chestnuts roasted on an open fire or a Jello salad. Either way, they are the perfect comfort foods for the holidays, full of memories and taste.

An Elegant French PartyTreat

The French know how to do Christmas elegantly right. Every  aspect of their Noel sparkles with sophistication and taste.This definitely applies to their food and their parties . Champagne is a must as is a luxurious treat, smoked salmon. It's cool and refreshing, much like the Gallic nature itself.

David Tanis  also realized this when he wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times Food section. His column, A City Kitchen is dedicated to all things ,lush , expensive and French.Any Yank can create their own version of this .He does suggest caviar although it is expensive to serve at a party where hosts must have copious amounts of it to satisfy guests.The French love a good foie gras  too however it's illegal to serve in some states such as California and Illinois. Also it may offend some who consider the foie gras industry as being cruel. There is smoked salmon, pink , shiny, the perfect party meat.It's versatile and goes a long way, Have it on a round of buttered rye or baguette toasts. it's also good on endive leaves as well.

Mr. Tanis offers up a smoked salmon tart for his party guests. Think of it as a sophisticated pizza and it's just as easy to make .His crust is  a buttery one sort of like a home baked Ritz, thanks to the addition of a stick of butter (and please use butter when making this as any French chef, home or professional would do).. The base is a horseradish infused crème fraiche and ribbons of salmon are  placed on top. To finish it add a mixed sprinkling of  chives and tarragon or better yet just dill.Mr. Tanis also suggests using the poor man's caviar orange trout roe or the vermilion salmon caviar.It's actually a milder version of the sturgeon kind and pairs better with the smoked salmon.The drink to have with it  - champagne, of course like Vouvray.You can also try a similar Chablis for the wine drinkers in your crowd.

A sophisticated holiday party is always a memorable one. Serve smoked salmon and a chilled champagne to make yours the toast of the season. It''s tres French and tres bien!

Schmaltz A Classic Returns

Schmaltz, or rendered chicken fat is making a big comeback in private and restaurant kitchens. A new generation of both home and professional chefs are discovering this Old World staple and why not. It's is versatile yes, but also profoundly rich , adding a homey silkiness to everything from roasted vegetables to even challah. It also comes with a surprise , those yummy crispy bits of chicken fat  known as gribenes.

It was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Food section.Melissa Clark got the fun job of not only writing about it but tasting and trying dishes made with it. Schmaltz is basically rendered chicken fat, brought to America by Eastern European or Ashkenazi Jews in the late 1800's and early 1900's. The name schmaltz is a Yiddish one and it  refers to all rendered poultry skin, such as duck , goose and chicken. It was a staple of schetl living and then it became a huge part of the Jewish American immigrant diet. However as the Ashkenazi become more assimilated , schmaltz took a back seat to the more American Crisco. It also was deemed unhealthy in the Sixties and Seventies. Luckily  the Eighties saw the grandchildren and great grandchildren return to traditional recipes and ingredients. Now young chefs use it regularly and there are even schmaltz parties or mixers. even more so, everyone is also embracing gribenes, the chicken version of pork rinds. These are a wonder byproduct that is addictive and just downright tasty.

Anyone can make schmaltz, according to Ms. Clark. Buy a whole chicken and then you can render the fat.The first step is cutting away the chicken skin and fat and placing it in a frying pan with kosher salt and water. Traditionalists will also add half a medium onion well chopped as well which imparts a sweet taste. Rendering does take a long time, Carve out about an hour for cooking. Occasionally toss the skin until it and the onion pieces are a nice deep brown. Now it has to be strained through a sieve. Reserve the schmaltz .If you want the gribenes to be crispier then return to the pan.Schmaltz can be used to fry latkes. which produces a nice , crispy potato pancake but you can also use it for roasting veggies.Ms. Clark does so with Brussels sprouts, and the process makes them crispy and delicious.She also recommends  liberally sprinkling gribenes on them for more crunch and flavor. them Of course some love the fat spread on toasted challah with a sprinkle of Kosher salt

Schmaltz is making a big comeback and there is good reason why.It is silky and delicious, earthy and reminiscent of a grandmother's kitchen. It is a flavorful reminder of the past , yet perfect for modern cooking and feasting.