This is the season for fresh veggies and herbs from the garden .It's time to harvest the small age and burnet. These may. Sound strange -even foreign to you however they were a big part of the Colonial diet.Before there were modern greens there were their wild cousins. Even though they were staples back in the 1600s and 1700s, they still can be used in today 's recipes.
This was the subject of a very interesting article in the Thursday Home section of the NewYork Times. Michael Totorello wrote this thought provoking article that deals with plants from the past four centuries. A lot was written about small age ,a precursor of celery.This was used as aside to meats.It still can be used today in salads and even soups. Burnet , a popular and well used herb ofPuritans was used for doctoring wine. it's light cucumber like taste could easily be added to any 21st Century summer dish. There is also skirret which instantly takeover the garden,Unfortunately it takes a lot plants to get enough pulp for dish.
Cooking these greens does take some patience.Purslane, another 18th Century "sallet green, has to be blanched first before cooking.Scozonera, another celery like plant has to be over baked to soften its woody core which can be super tough to eat. the tastes may be a little intense for modern palates however they can be softened with sautes in olive oil or butter. Scallions and garlic can also be added too or even spinach which was a very popular dish in the 1700's.
Travel to the culinary past this summer. Add colonial favorites like small age, purslane and burnet to your cooking.It's a neat way of connecting with our culinary past.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Flash Feasting Paris' Annual Dinner In White
Imagine a warm, summer's night. Thousands dress up in white to convene at a place for bacchanalian dining and drinking. There is music and dancing afterwards. Is it a new cult? A coven meeting to celebrate midsummer, No, it's thousands of elegant Parisians to have a flash feast in front of the Louvre Museum and Notre Dame Cathedral.
This version of a flash mob was written about in yesterday's New York Times Dining section by newcomer Liesl Schillinger. She tells of how a group of very well behaved city people came together at exactly eight o clock last year and had the grandest picnic of them all. It's an annual event, since 1988, called "Diner en Blanche" or "Dinner In White". Men wear pristine white suits while women float in dresses of the same snowy color.. They carried picnic baskets filled with foie gras, poached salmon and different cheeses.Champagne along with wine and water were drunk. Each table provides its' own meal along with linens and silverware. There was also dessert and hors d'ouevres too. Just as soon as the meal is finished, everything is cleared away and cleaned up. so that there;s dancing in t he squares.
Not everyone can just join in. There are private invitations. otherwise it would be the largest food fest ever (and quite messy in the end) . The actual venue is kept a secret until a few days before to avoid gatecrashers. However both New York and Montreal and planning on these flash feasts and of course - the invites are going out via Facebook and Twitter. Don't think that these dinners will have a few hundred gate crashers. There is also a penalty for those who behave raucously or don't clean up. They get barred from next year's Diner en Blanche.
it should be interesting to see how New York and Montreal's flash feasts do. Will both be as casually elegant as their French counterpart? Even more interesting how will the food be?
This version of a flash mob was written about in yesterday's New York Times Dining section by newcomer Liesl Schillinger. She tells of how a group of very well behaved city people came together at exactly eight o clock last year and had the grandest picnic of them all. It's an annual event, since 1988, called "Diner en Blanche" or "Dinner In White". Men wear pristine white suits while women float in dresses of the same snowy color.. They carried picnic baskets filled with foie gras, poached salmon and different cheeses.Champagne along with wine and water were drunk. Each table provides its' own meal along with linens and silverware. There was also dessert and hors d'ouevres too. Just as soon as the meal is finished, everything is cleared away and cleaned up. so that there;s dancing in t he squares.
Not everyone can just join in. There are private invitations. otherwise it would be the largest food fest ever (and quite messy in the end) . The actual venue is kept a secret until a few days before to avoid gatecrashers. However both New York and Montreal and planning on these flash feasts and of course - the invites are going out via Facebook and Twitter. Don't think that these dinners will have a few hundred gate crashers. There is also a penalty for those who behave raucously or don't clean up. They get barred from next year's Diner en Blanche.
it should be interesting to see how New York and Montreal's flash feasts do. Will both be as casually elegant as their French counterpart? Even more interesting how will the food be?
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Real Old Fashioned Sodas
Our great grandparents enjoyed a treat that's a rarity today - an old fashioned fountain soda.These were amazing concoctions all made before the birth of Coca Cola and Pepsi. Everything but the kitchen sink went into these lavish hot weather treats. Ingredients were fresh made and full of foamy goodness. Will those days ever come back? Yes thanks to a few dedicated purists..
This was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The great Julia Moskin wrote the well researched piece that took her to old fashioned soda fountains. Before the birth of Coke in the 1890s soda, including colas were mixed in pharmacies across the country. After the drink's invention sodas weren't that special anymore and a once a week treat like ice cream sodas could be made at home. Thanks to a few dedicated soda jerks that world is coming back. The name jerk come from the jerking motion of pulling the soda taps and the modern ones are just as proud of the title as their 1890s counterparts were.
During the golden era of home made soda, the egg cream reigned king. This was and still is an amazing concoction that involves cream, chocolate and seltzer. The original recipe is making a comeback as is a strawberry egg cream made with fresh Long Island strawberries. Other creations are calling for fresh huckleberries and locally grown hazelnuts. Fresh milk from Hudson Valley dairies is also used giving the drinks a purer flavor. Artesanal seltzers are also being used. Before carbonation, pharmacists used water mixed with potassium, calcium and magnesium to give it fizz (this water was also made for medicinal purposes as well). Homemade sodas are also made, using the same ingredients as 19th century jerks used.
Nothing beats an ice cream soda on a hot summer's day. Even better is when it's made the old fashioned way with homemade seltzer and fresh ingredients. If there is a true soda fountain in your neighborhood visit it. Enjoy the purity of a real 19th century treat!
This was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The great Julia Moskin wrote the well researched piece that took her to old fashioned soda fountains. Before the birth of Coke in the 1890s soda, including colas were mixed in pharmacies across the country. After the drink's invention sodas weren't that special anymore and a once a week treat like ice cream sodas could be made at home. Thanks to a few dedicated soda jerks that world is coming back. The name jerk come from the jerking motion of pulling the soda taps and the modern ones are just as proud of the title as their 1890s counterparts were.
During the golden era of home made soda, the egg cream reigned king. This was and still is an amazing concoction that involves cream, chocolate and seltzer. The original recipe is making a comeback as is a strawberry egg cream made with fresh Long Island strawberries. Other creations are calling for fresh huckleberries and locally grown hazelnuts. Fresh milk from Hudson Valley dairies is also used giving the drinks a purer flavor. Artesanal seltzers are also being used. Before carbonation, pharmacists used water mixed with potassium, calcium and magnesium to give it fizz (this water was also made for medicinal purposes as well). Homemade sodas are also made, using the same ingredients as 19th century jerks used.
Nothing beats an ice cream soda on a hot summer's day. Even better is when it's made the old fashioned way with homemade seltzer and fresh ingredients. If there is a true soda fountain in your neighborhood visit it. Enjoy the purity of a real 19th century treat!
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Name Day Treats
If you're traveling to Italy or Greece this summer you may hear something about onomasticas or saints days.This when people celebrate the saint they've been named for. Celebrations could include small gifts or better yet some special meal or treat. Onomastica day usually means a favorite food of to be made, whether it's an elaborate dish like risotto or something as simple as an ice.
The name onomastica derives from the Greek and was a way of code way of distinguishing Christians from pagans in the Church's early days. If someone had a saints name like Mary or John a fellow Christian would know their religion and act accordingly with them. (Most Christians were either jailed or killed for openly practicing this "new religion."). As the centuries passed and Christianity became the leading religion, saints days became a second birthday. Children were given small gifts and even cakes. In some Italian provinces a saint' s day dictates that a favorite meal is to be made. A saint's day is also called a feast day and a namesake church may have a three day to week long celebration of all sorts of fun foods from sausages to zeppoli.
Some saints' have their own built in treats .St Joseph's Day, which is March 19th, has its' cream puffs . These are lush concoctions that are filled with cannoli filling and topped with a cherry.Of course there are the more famous St. Valentine's Day and St Patrick's Day. These are universally celebrated with more than enough hoopla. Both have all sorts of tie in foods and drinks. However as with any onomastica it boils down to what the namesake wishes to eat.
Celebrating your saint's day is a good way to tap into tradition and understanding the early church.It's also a good day to have others treat you with a favorite meal or sweet. If you're named Elizabeth ,then enjoy today, St . Elizabeth's Day.
The name onomastica derives from the Greek and was a way of code way of distinguishing Christians from pagans in the Church's early days. If someone had a saints name like Mary or John a fellow Christian would know their religion and act accordingly with them. (Most Christians were either jailed or killed for openly practicing this "new religion."). As the centuries passed and Christianity became the leading religion, saints days became a second birthday. Children were given small gifts and even cakes. In some Italian provinces a saint' s day dictates that a favorite meal is to be made. A saint's day is also called a feast day and a namesake church may have a three day to week long celebration of all sorts of fun foods from sausages to zeppoli.
Some saints' have their own built in treats .St Joseph's Day, which is March 19th, has its' cream puffs . These are lush concoctions that are filled with cannoli filling and topped with a cherry.Of course there are the more famous St. Valentine's Day and St Patrick's Day. These are universally celebrated with more than enough hoopla. Both have all sorts of tie in foods and drinks. However as with any onomastica it boils down to what the namesake wishes to eat.
Celebrating your saint's day is a good way to tap into tradition and understanding the early church.It's also a good day to have others treat you with a favorite meal or sweet. If you're named Elizabeth ,then enjoy today, St . Elizabeth's Day.
Monday, July 4, 2011
A Happy Fourth
Have a good Fourth of July to all my American foodies here and abroad. Enjoy this day full of fun food and fireworks! Go for that corndog or hamburger. Enjoy a pie eating contest or just margaritas around the pool!
Keep those in the Armed Force s in your thoughts and pray they come home for the next year's Fourth of July. Remember they're keeping the dream of Washington and Jeffereson, Adams and Franklin alive fighting for us to continue our freedoms.
Toast them tonight and our country!
Keep those in the Armed Force s in your thoughts and pray they come home for the next year's Fourth of July. Remember they're keeping the dream of Washington and Jeffereson, Adams and Franklin alive fighting for us to continue our freedoms.
Toast them tonight and our country!
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Colonial Dining
Fourth of July brings about thoughts of barbecues and picnics. There's nothing like roasted meat followed by a cold draft of beer. Surprisingly what we're eating in the 21st Century wasn't that much different than what our country's founders dined on in the 18th Century. There was still meat cooked outside on a fire followed by home made brews - the first artisanal beers.
The average Colonist had the same amount of meals we have today. However lunch was a more 19th Century invention . Instead a bigger dinner was served at noon while a smaller repast was cooked for the evening hours. Breakfast came early for the working classes while the rich had what would be called brunch today. There were very few innovations so foods were either roasted, baked or boiled. Some caught their own meat such as wild turkey or deer along with terrapins, rabbits and the occasional possum. Many who were lucky to live along bays and the Atlantic had diets rich in seafood. Most foods were roasted over outdoor spits and eaten with wild onions ,leeks or even apples picked from local trees.
Our founding fathers would have been amazed at our addiction to water. Since there was no purification or desalination plants the water was often contaminated. Some colonists were smart enough to collect rain water or dig wells for fresh sweet water. Most though preferred their local taverns for ale or hard cider. There were coffee houses back then, sort of similar to our modern day Starbucks where men (not women) sat and sipped , discussing ideas and news of the day. Boston had the first established in 1678. Hot chocolate was also popular mostly amongst the upper classes. The lower classes though did have fresh milk provided by their cows.
When you think about it , there's not much difference food or drink wise between our colonial ancestors and us. They enjoyed a good roasted meat with ale. As with us they hung out in coffee house , drinking the best brews and discussing the events of the day. Our Founding Fathers would have loved this era- it's not that far removed food and drinkwise from theirs.
The average Colonist had the same amount of meals we have today. However lunch was a more 19th Century invention . Instead a bigger dinner was served at noon while a smaller repast was cooked for the evening hours. Breakfast came early for the working classes while the rich had what would be called brunch today. There were very few innovations so foods were either roasted, baked or boiled. Some caught their own meat such as wild turkey or deer along with terrapins, rabbits and the occasional possum. Many who were lucky to live along bays and the Atlantic had diets rich in seafood. Most foods were roasted over outdoor spits and eaten with wild onions ,leeks or even apples picked from local trees.
Our founding fathers would have been amazed at our addiction to water. Since there was no purification or desalination plants the water was often contaminated. Some colonists were smart enough to collect rain water or dig wells for fresh sweet water. Most though preferred their local taverns for ale or hard cider. There were coffee houses back then, sort of similar to our modern day Starbucks where men (not women) sat and sipped , discussing ideas and news of the day. Boston had the first established in 1678. Hot chocolate was also popular mostly amongst the upper classes. The lower classes though did have fresh milk provided by their cows.
When you think about it , there's not much difference food or drink wise between our colonial ancestors and us. They enjoyed a good roasted meat with ale. As with us they hung out in coffee house , drinking the best brews and discussing the events of the day. Our Founding Fathers would have loved this era- it's not that far removed food and drinkwise from theirs.
Friday, July 1, 2011
Best Summer Treats Ever!
With July 1st comes the official start of the summer season (even thought it really started last week).This is one of the best times of year. Fresh fruit and veggies abound.Every weekend holds th e prospect of a yummy picnic or barbecue. There's delicious boardwalk and carnival treats not to mention contests at local fairs. It's one fun foodie week after another.
One of the best treats of the season is a good old fashioned tomato sandwich. All you need is just fresh, sliced tomatoes mayo and white bread. The best bread is a good sandwich white like Pepperidge farms or Arnold's and then liberally slather on mayo. Add thick slices of beefsteak, sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and you have sheer heaven. It's a lovely combo of juices mixing with creaminess. Another sandwich treat is a good old fashioned off the grill hamburger , complete with fresh sliced onions, ketchup and lettuce. Of course ribs rank right up there as well. There's nothing like them barbecued, shining with a thick patina of homemade sauce.
Summer has a lot of sweet goodies too. This i s the time of year to take advantage of what's left of the strawberry and blueberry seasons as well as cherries. Of course summer is all about that perfect watermelon wedge, drippy,cool and perfectly sweet.It'sa refreshing respite when temps hit the nineties. Vacation time isn't vacation time without boardwalk or fair goodies. There's the sheer fun eating cotton candy and candy apples along with frozen custard in a cake cone. Another treat (especially here in New Jersey) are boardwalk candies, fresh made in candy shops thatare a mainstay of the Jersey shore . Happiness is a molasses pop or a haystack or a whole box of saltwater taffy made from recipes that have lasted over one hundred years.
This is the season for fun times and fun food. It's just great to kick back with a perfect burger to a fresh made cone of cotton candy. Enjoy the warm weather and starry nights along with some of summer's fun treats!
One of the best treats of the season is a good old fashioned tomato sandwich. All you need is just fresh, sliced tomatoes mayo and white bread. The best bread is a good sandwich white like Pepperidge farms or Arnold's and then liberally slather on mayo. Add thick slices of beefsteak, sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground pepper and you have sheer heaven. It's a lovely combo of juices mixing with creaminess. Another sandwich treat is a good old fashioned off the grill hamburger , complete with fresh sliced onions, ketchup and lettuce. Of course ribs rank right up there as well. There's nothing like them barbecued, shining with a thick patina of homemade sauce.
Summer has a lot of sweet goodies too. This i s the time of year to take advantage of what's left of the strawberry and blueberry seasons as well as cherries. Of course summer is all about that perfect watermelon wedge, drippy,cool and perfectly sweet.It'sa refreshing respite when temps hit the nineties. Vacation time isn't vacation time without boardwalk or fair goodies. There's the sheer fun eating cotton candy and candy apples along with frozen custard in a cake cone. Another treat (especially here in New Jersey) are boardwalk candies, fresh made in candy shops thatare a mainstay of the Jersey shore . Happiness is a molasses pop or a haystack or a whole box of saltwater taffy made from recipes that have lasted over one hundred years.
This is the season for fun times and fun food. It's just great to kick back with a perfect burger to a fresh made cone of cotton candy. Enjoy the warm weather and starry nights along with some of summer's fun treats!
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