The Artisanal Food Magazine

It should come as no surprise that food magazines are now indie and artisanal. After all,most foods are, Why not the magazines that feature them? It's a new food trend that may just be a permanent one.

Tejal Rao, the famed chef and, cookbook writer wrote about them in today's New York Times Food section  It's a movement that arose from frustration. Many of the people, creating these  are stymied  by what they see in the long established cookery magazines. There are ones that recipes cater more to novices than seasoned chefs or the ones that are so corny and homey that it hurts to read them, despite the fact that some actually do print pretty  good recipes. Many of these indies combine lifestyle with cooking as Jarry, one created by Lukas Volger and Steve Viksjo.It celebrates the meeting of food and queer culture.It gave an L.G.B.T.Q. spin on food. Unlike other food magazines, there's an article on designer , Zac Posen who also has a cookbook out as well as a culinary tour of Milan. Dill magazine, created by only (!) twenty year old Shayne Chammavanijakul on South Asian noodles along with flavors and dishes . There are some interesting recipes you wouldn't see in standard lifestyle or cooking magazines.The wittily named Toothache was created by pastry chef , Nick Muncy, for chefs. It may be the first of its' kind because it offers recipes in technical terms not ones for foodies or home chefs .

Is it easy to create a artisanal magazine? Like food blogging it does require a large chunk of time to come up with ideas and format. , It is also costly unlike food blogging, which just requires signing onto a free  blog.A print magazine needs ink and paper along with contributors to create an issue. This requires money, easy to get from a publisher , not so from an independent one. Dill's creator, Ms. Chammavanijakul had to work nights at Chipotle just to pay her contributors.Family and friends also chipped in with financial and editorial support. Staffs on these artisanal issues tend to be small. Sometimes it's just a staff of one or possibly two doing everything, from layout to promotion. The circulation also is very small. Readership could only be around one hundred and fifty subscribers.Pricing is also high.Dill is nine dollars an issue. Toothache is a whopping twenty dollars for two biannual issues.Yet, unlike, the mass produced food magazines, these come with saturated ink drawings along with original articles that would appeal to a more experienced crowd.


These new artisanal magazines may last as long as their more established counterparts. They show a side of cooking and food not always seen. This may be more than a trend. It may be the start of an entirely new publishing phenomenon.

The Greatest Book Of Grilling

Despite the cold temps and occasional snow flurry , it's Spring and that means grilling season is here.It's time to get the grill ready to go.before you do , there's a phenomenal book , chock full of all sorts of on the grill recipes , from appetizers to even dessert - yes, dessert!


Char-Broil's Great Book Of Grilling (Fox Chapel Publishing 2018) is a compilation of recipes from the folks at Char-Broil Grills.The company is well known for its' wide variety of gas and charcoal grills along with electric and portable ones. Charbroil also has an extensive line of both oil-less fryers and BBQ smokers. The company is also innovative, creating a line of hybrid grills that incorporate both gas and charcoal. Charbroil is all things outdoor cooking so it makes sense that they have a cookbook all about the cuisine. Novice grillers will appreciate the first chapter which explains everything  from the difference between barbecuing and grilling( the first is a slower method of cooking),to infra-red frying.A big plus are the cooking table times for the various meats and fish. Following this , there should be no under cooked meat . There is also pages on pantry essentials such as brown sugar and ketchup and tips for creating the best tasting burgers, chops, wings and even fruit slices. A very important section is dedicated to grill safety.It's full of such wise tips as grill in a well ventilated area and wearing "safe clothes" such as no hanging shirt tails, frills or apron strings.Another  important section is grill maintenance and how to clean the various grates with different cleaning implements and soap.

The recipes are mouth watering. Carnivores will drool over the Bloody Mary London Broil which is London Broil with zippy Worcester sauce and tomato juice along with the Montreal Grilled T-Bone which comes with a fiery Cajun sauce. For tradtionalists there is beer-can chicken.It comes with two rub recipes, one spiked with cumin and coriander and a fiery sweet one, rich with sugar and cayenne pepper. There's the simple but packed with flavor with Grilled New York Steak.It's just brushing them with melted butter or oil. Poultry lovers will also enjoy the grilled duck breasts with sweet potato fries and BBQ turkey wings cooked over cherry wood chips. Pork and lamb are also represented Affectionados will enjoy the pulled smoked pork with the tongue seairng mop sauce and lamb chops with rosemary and cumin. For those who prefer seafood there is the delicious rainbow trout stuffed with lemon, shallots and herbs.A tasty twist on a salad is Cajun grilled mahi-mahi with avocado slices.Sides and desserts are also here, with some component being cooked over an open flame., A pool party would be more fun with  grilled and stuffed potato skins or grilled scallops with prosciutto. End with grilled peaches with raspberry puree or grill baked chocolate chip cookies.

Before you know it, warmer weather will be here and that means firing up the grill.Have the Char-Broil Great Book Of Grilling on hand. It's loaded with recipes that will keep your fire going until tailgate season!

Revamping The Classics

Classic recipes are just that - classic. However sometimes they need updating or varying to add more zing and flavor or to make them healthier.After all change is good. Change keeps a recipe going for the next generation.

The idea came to me after looking at the original recipe for Tollhouse Cookies in today's New York Times obituaries. Yes, obituaries. The Times is doing a salute to famous women that were ignored or barely written up when they passed. One was Ruth Wakfield who left us forty years ago. Thanks to her , home baking was never the same. She invented chocolate chip cookies by adding smashed dark chocolate to a buttery brown sugar snap. It took off like crazy, thanks to Nestle's creating chocolate chips to suit the recipe. Many have not wanted to redo this classic but sometimes an update helps. For a healthier bite try subbing in carob chips which have a similar taste to chocolate.One of the earliest variations was subbing in M&M's for the chips. Then there is the flip chocolate chip , chocolate dough and white chocolate chips.The basic sugar cookie is also getting an upgrade with the addition of vegan butter and whole wheat flour.A truly colorful alternative is the addition of colorful sprnkles or jimmies to the dough. These amps up the fun in a simple classic. Brownies, always a must have , have also been tinkered with to create a more delicious treat. Coconut, marshmallows and a variety of nuts have been added over the years along with dried cherries, cream cheese and even cranberries!

Savory recipes also have gotten upgrades over the years. Take pasta aglia et olio, pasta with garlic and oil. For years it was served with fettucini, spaghetti or angel hair pasta These were all good but try the sauce with rotelli or shells.It works perfectly because the roasted garlic gets caught in the curves and lifts the flavor of the pasta itself. The same can be said for pasta con burro, , usually served with long strands. Try it with a chicken ravioli or tortellini, Mole sauce, that Mexican classic , made with cocoa powder and chile peppers. is usually served with chicken but it can also be a great foil for beef such as London Broil or pork. It can even be used as a sauce for a burger for a change of pace. Side dishes can also be varied for a fun twist.Cauliflower , always made into a soup or breaded for frying can be riced to create a fun new dish. It's just putting broken florets into a food processor or mini chopper and pulsing them until they resemble couscous. Add spices or just butter for a tasty and fun side. The same can be done to broccoli too. Instead of the usual broccoli salad, think a riced one. with olive oil and garlic. The process is simple. Cut the florets and stems into workable pieces and drop into a mini chopper. You make have to work in batches if you have a big bunch.

Change is good. Changing a classic is even better. Take basic recipes and tinker with them to create something more delicious and new.

Planning The Perfect Spring Brunch

Spring is the perfect time for an airy brunch, full of good food and good friends and family. It's also a great time to appreciate the abundance of  Spring harvest, full of freshness and flavor. Create a Saturday or Sunday one that reflects the season.

One of the first things to do is decide whether it's going to be an indoor or outdoor one. The temps are rising. It would be a shame to stay indoors when there are balmy breezes outside.  However keep in mind that the weather is iffy. There could be rain - or even an April snow shower - or the  opposite. -  a hot, sweaty day, Be ready for these last minute jabs  from Mother Nature. The next is the guest list. Do you want an intimate grouping of just four or a much larger one of fifteen or twenty. A smaller brunch doesn't require  the variety a larger gathering would. Larger brunches will require more structure. There may be a savory first course and salad followed by a light dessert. Also  a more intimate gathering can be held in the dining room or the patio. A bigger one, like a baby or bridal shower brunch needs seating plans. Can it be held in the garage if it's too hot a day or the yard? Do you borrow tables or rent them?  Another question is can you handle it yourself, or will you require the spouse and kids to help out? Or enlist a few friends to help with the cooking, serving and cleaning up. Then there's the plates and utensils. Hosts can get away with using their  regular luncheon plates and knives and forks. Paper plates and plastic utensils is a must for groups of five or more.

Since brunch is a combo of breakfast and lunch, think eggs as the star of the meal. A Spring frittata is the perfect main course for entertaining your cadre of friends. Make it rich with asparagus , tomatoes and onions. Serve it sliced with toasted and oiled or buttered Italian bread Set out a  sparkling wine or better yet, champagne. Of course Bloody Mary's and  mimosa's are always welcome. After all, it's a relaxing get together. You could even serve a tomato and mozzarella salad on the side.For a different kind of dessert think the Italian fried pastry twists - crostoli. - a staple at many Italian bakeries.These are light and airy , made from fried pie dough and dusted with confectioner's sugar. . The meal can also end with bougies, a Piedmontese pastry stick,  a denser version of the crostoli, but still just as delicate. For a bigger gathering quiches, especially the mini variety a,re always welcome. You can have the classic Quiche Lorraine but also think of a  shrimp or crab one, Vegetarian friends can enjoy   spinach or again the veggie of the season, asparagus ones.Serve with  nice, crisp Spring greens salad and crusty French rolls. As for dessert, think, small, The British fairy cakes are perfect for an outdoor gathering. They're smaller than cupcakes and just have a drizzle of glaze on the top. Bakery made petit fours are another nice ending, also with candied almonds in pretty pastel colors.

Spring is brunch season. Start planning your perfect one. It could be big or small.It's the perfect way to celebrate warmer weather and balmy - hopefully - seasons.

When Holidays Collide

Many families now have two or even three religions being practiced in their households. This year, Easter and Passover are almost simultaneous , with Orthodox Easter occurring a week later. With all these come some sort of dietary restriction, Can a home chef cope with all of these? Surprisingly yes.It does take some thoughtful planning but it can be done.

The first night of Passover happens on the Christian Good Friday. This is normally a time to eschew any meat except fish. What happens when the two religions are observed? Serve fish. The most commonly made one is gefilte fish , a kind of croquette. You can use salmon, or red snapper for a more flavorful mix. Gefilte fish can also be baked into a loaf bound together with four eggs and matzoh meal. Celery and onions give it a nice Spring freshness. Another idea is the whole filet itself for a more substantial meal. Think of combining salmon with both lemon and orange juice, spiked with garlic and dill. It can also be cooked in a garlic and coriander sauce. What happens when some of the family observe Greek or Russian Orthodoxy? Their's is a strict Lenten diet. Unlike Catholics and Protestants, they can't even have fish with spines  along with other meats.Only vegetables are allowed and they can only be boiled, not sauteed or fried. Oil, butter, and even margarine are forbidden. Boiled vegetables such as the meatier sweet potatoes or potatoes are allowed. These can be mashed and combined with other veggies to create a substantial mash.

Easter is also the time of bread and cakes. So many holiday breakfasts start off with a slice of egg bread.Unfortnately this can be awkward for some in a household that don't celebrate the day.Mmatzoh brei can be made. This is a variation of French toast with the cracker being first soaked in water then in egg. Serve it with maple syrup or honey. Matzoh can also be turned into a fun, crispy snack with the addition of kosher for Passover margarine, chocolate and brown sugar. Named Matzo Crack because it's highly addictive and tasty, it's even perfect for an Easter party.One dessert that transcends the two holidays are macarons. These can even be made with aquafaba - bean water from chickpeas  - to satisfy Greek Orthodox Holy Week laws. Dye them (using Kosher for Passover dyes) in delicate Easter egg colors such as pale pink , robin's egg blue and lavender. These can even be dusted with cocoa powder or sanding sugar to look more festive.

A multifaith household can be problematic during the holidays. Yet there are ways to deal with this . It's just being creative and thoughtful, keeping in mind ancient traditions and dietary laws.

A Provencal Passover

The Avignon region of southern France is rife with history and tradition. This also applies to food and the traditional dishes associated with this season of faith and belief. To the Jewish community of Avignon, the Passover dishes take on a special meaning.

Joan Nathan, a regular contributor to the New York Times Food section and export on Jewish cooking wrote an informative and intriguing article on the community at Carpentras. since Roman times, Jews have lived in this Northern Provence town and will now be celebrating Passover at the Carpentra Synagogue, first built in 1367/ It is one of the oldest synagogues still in use and will welcome some with roots in African Judaism.Carpentrs a became the center of Jewish life in 1306 when the Jews were expelled from the Kingdom of France.Like other nearby sanctuaries of Avignon and Cavaillon, the town was under French rule but the Contat Venaisson under the command of Pope John XXII. His Holiness decreed that the Jew would be welcomed as refugees. Thanks to the initial 1,000 Carpentras was known as 'Petit Jersusalem. They still sadly  had to  contained be in a ghetto, which was locked at night. They had their own butchers and bakers which now the slaughterhouses and ovens along with the ritual baths are being excavated. Some things have changed. Most of the younger generation have moved to the larger cities and townspeople have to travel to Marseilles for kosher meats.

The holiday foods has both Jewish and Provencal influences The cuisine is Jewish dishes were adapted from local foods according to the laws of kashrut, or Jewish religious dietary laws. Gilberte Levi's Haroset, the sweet paste that represents the mortar that built the pyramids has dried  apricots, figs, raisins and chestnuts, reflective of the harvests of southern France. She will also serve veal stuffed with Swiss chard, with the last being a popular ingredient of the region. Her Haroset is easy to recreate It not only has the chestnuts but also almonds, pine nuts  and walnuts.She adds in the traditional apple along with cinnamon and fresh ginger. The fruit used can be dried because sweet Kosher wine will moisten it. The provencal veal breast stuffed with Swiss chard also has rosemary and garlic, not too far in ingredients from an Italian Easter lamb Cote du Rhone,a  dry red is also added for moisture.

Carpentras  will celebrate Passover ,using ancient recipes and traditions of both France and Jerusalem. The food will reflect centuries of lives led there. It is a reminder of their contributions to Provencal life.

Maryland's Specialty stuffed Ham

Mention dishes associated with Maryland and anything with crab will come to mind.However there's one county, surprisingly a peninsula, that has a delicious specialty - stuffed ham. This dish is a big holiday one, popular for the upcoming Easter one.

Kim Severson wrote about this traditional dish of St Mary's County in today's New York Times Food section. It's one of America's most regional recipes, right up there with Jersey rippers (deep fried hot dogs) Cincinnati chili  and Robeson county collard greens. Every family in the county made stuffed ham. whether for Christmas, Easter and even Thanksgiving.Unfortunately it's disappearing thanks to a younger generation either moving away or having smaller families. People turned to family owned stores like the famed Dent's . It takes stamina and skill to boil about twenty pounds of cabbage and the Dents had this for two generations.The owner, who sadly died in his sleep not long ago, put the stuffed ham in egg rolls and on top of  pizzas .His cordon bleu chicken, traditionally stuffed with ham was filled with the St. Mary's County kind.  Another small store Murphy's Town and Country also makes the famed dish , around four hundred a year. Most go to church dinners but many still grace a large family's table. . The recipe could be a cousin of an old Lincolnshire dish chine in which a brined shoulder of pork is slashed and stuffed with herbs. It was boiled in a muslin case. It's more likely  to be derived from an Afro- Carib dish though, according to Joyce White, a Maryland food historian.Enslaved West Africans would season greens with onions and red pepper and stuff them into jowls or whatever piece of pork they had.

What makes this ham so special?It is the stuffing It is a combination of curly kale mixed with collard greens and watercress.. Yellow onions and scallions are also added along with black pepper , cayenne,and red pepper flakes for kick. Mustard and celery seeds are tossed in as well.It is not for the faint of heart novice chef. It does take more than a few hands. The original recipe, first published in 1834, called for smoked ham. This one requires the meat to be corned or having kosher salt rubbed on the surface, Place the ham in an unreactive  pan after salting or corning.. A glass one which won't react with the salt so stay away from aluminum or copper pans..cover it tightly with plastic wrap and leave in the fridge for a few days. The day before it get's stuffed, rinse off the salt and soak the ham  in cold water over night in the fridge.The stuffing is chopped cabbage along with the onions and kale.. The ham should be boneless when stuffed. Think butterflied with the meat being splayed on the sides.The ham should also be slit to hold the stuffing. It will be packed in the greens as it's placed into a cheesecloth  "sack". Themmeat is cooked ,fifteen minutes per pound. A small ham could take about an hour and a half , a larger one could take three to four hours. after cooking, It's then drained in colander and chilled in the fridge for six hours before serving. It' s usually served on soft potato rolls ro slices of white bread.

Stuffed ham may be a Saint Mary's county specialty but any body from any other part of the country can also make t. It's a delicious blend of ham and greens, spiked with peppers. Try this traditiona dish and see what generations have raved about for decades.